The Wah Modding Thread! Crybaby, Vox, etc.


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Invader Jim
07-10-2008, 06:28 PM
Does anybody even read the first post of the thread?

*sigh* Here we go again...

1. Re-index the pot.

2. Mids: up the value of the 390-ish ohm resistor at the emitter of Q1.
Vocalness: Replace the 33k resistor across the inductor with 68k or, for the coolest vintage sound, 100k.

3. No idea. Don't have a schem for a Slash wah.

imgod22222
07-11-2008, 10:38 PM
So I've read about having a buffer w/o true bypass and true bypass with no buffer. Any ideas how true bypass + buffers will sound?

Its_Just_Me: Thanks alot dude! Nice layout. All I need to do is replace the 510 ohm resistor with a 470k resistor to make it identical to the crybaby circuit. Also after printing it, it looks like everything is spaced just right so I can try etching my own board again. =]

Anyone have sound clips of the Midboost mod? Wonderin' if its worth the effort, DPDT, and 2 resistors to put it / stock in.

Invader Jim
07-11-2008, 10:47 PM
TB with buffer isn't as smooth as TB w/o buffer. If you're going TB (which I recommend), you'd just be wasting time, money, components, board space, and effort with those input and output buffers. Why do you want both in and out buffering, anyway? TB is so much easier and simpler...

kurtlives91
07-11-2008, 11:29 PM
^I cant tell ya for a fact that you will "almost" need an output buffer. I just built a wah from scrtahc, TB and nothin else.

Even jumpering the 68K input resistor (with fukced with the impedence too much) didn't get me unity gain when the wah was engaged.

Anyways I added a simple FET output buffer with adjustable gain trimmer and Im good. I can get unity and beyond now.

Lots of people think of Boss (and other commercial crap) pedals and think "buffers..tone sucking"...its actually a combination of shi tty buffers and electronic switching.

Anyways leave the output buffer in I would say.

Whole Lotta Led
07-12-2008, 12:38 AM
Interesting... of the 3 wahs I've built I actually get a slight boost with a 47k input resistor....

Nezek
07-12-2008, 09:11 AM
+1 for 'interesting'.. used a 66.5k in my latest and when the wah is on i get a slight boost..

Invader Jim
07-12-2008, 04:54 PM
Schem for the buffer, kurt?

kurtlives91
07-12-2008, 05:10 PM
Schem for the buffer, kurt?
I dont have one...I just made it...I aksed someone if it was decent, ya know.

Anyways it works great.

I can draw ya a schem if ya want...

Invader Jim
07-12-2008, 05:27 PM
If you want to, then go ahead. I'm always looking to add to my archive of hundreds of schems. :)

Plenty of FX, not many buffers, though. Or amps.

kurtlives91
07-12-2008, 06:04 PM
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/5899/fetbufferlg2.jpg

Hope that's right...

Invader Jim
07-12-2008, 06:11 PM
Thanks, kurt. Appreciate it. :)

Nezek
07-13-2008, 04:33 AM
link (http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/mccoy.php)
they use the same buffer, there's a layout on the bottom.
hope that helps..

some bozo
07-13-2008, 05:32 AM
Hi all,
I've tried the volume pedal mod on my GCB 95 by disconnecting the 4.7F cap from earth and the result is a bit half assed - doesn't go all the way to zero volume and sounds quite lo-fi and lacking treble. If anyone has tried the Jen mod ( adding a cap and resistor around the 0.01F cap) is this any better ?

Invader Jim
07-13-2008, 07:23 PM
Prolly, as it's basically a treble bleed mod. If you'd read the last page (back 2 if you have 20ppp) you'd see that I warned of the volume not going all the way down.

Also, your guitar has a volume, anyway. This mod is just to use it as a swell pedal.

imgod22222
07-14-2008, 10:54 AM
So out of completely laziness, i've decided to create my whole crybaby on a printout of the layout on generalguitargadgets.com, traced the traces with conductive ink, and glued the printout to some cardboard for sturdiness. I punched holes in the paper and cardboard using a sewing pin, and pushed the component leads through the holes.

I guess this'll be a temporary arrangement until i put it in the case and on some copper.

Invader Jim
07-14-2008, 03:14 PM
...Did it work?

imgod22222
07-14-2008, 10:16 PM
well lets see when i finish populating the board. xD

Evidently when i put the order in mouser last month, not all the parts i expected came (turns out i didn't order everything) So I'm going to savage parts from my old wah attempt (except for the pot.

I checked continuity of all the traces and it seems to be good, and after i put in a few resistors, i touched my leads to the ink and measured resistance across a resistor and it gave me a value so, i'm going to assume this is working for the time being, but i'd really like to get a PCB for this. =]

Worse case scenario, i'm stuck making a perfboard design based off that layout.

Toolfan11
07-14-2008, 11:52 PM
I have behringer hbo1 :( I've wanted to upgrade for a while but haven't got the money. Any cheap mods i could do?

forsaknazrael
07-15-2008, 12:56 AM
Take a pic of the PCB. Let's see the circuit, first.

Toolfan11
07-15-2008, 03:32 PM
I tried to get into the guts of the thing. I took out all the screws but i can't pull it apart. I don't really want to pull to hard then break it. because I'll be out of a wah.

GuitarUltimate?
07-15-2008, 09:36 PM
can i replace a 1/4 watt resistor with a 1/2 watt one?

Edit: also, can i replace an original capacitor with a through-hole tantalum style one?

imgod22222
07-15-2008, 10:10 PM
yes, the 1/4 watt being replaced with a 1/2 watt is okay

As for the tantalum cap... idk if tantalum is good for audio. If it's polarized, stick to electrolytic, if its not, stick to polyester film. See what someone else has to say for the cap.

Invader Jim
07-16-2008, 12:53 AM
Tantalum is great for audio. They have longer lifespans than lytics, too, and are quieter than poly film.

GuitarUltimate?
07-16-2008, 01:45 AM
awesome, thanks for the help guys.

...I wonder why they don't come standard then... :confused:

Invader Jim
07-16-2008, 04:52 PM
They is expensive.

Nezek
07-17-2008, 04:01 AM
I have behringer hbo1 :( I've wanted to upgrade for a while but haven't got the money. Any cheap mods i could do?
not that I know of.. a friend of mine dropped one of those off the other day, i took it a part and - all resistors are SMD, there are about 200 parts in the thing, it's got an optical sensor instead of a 'wha' pot.
even if someone knew what's goin on in there it's pretty impossible to work with.

Invader Jim
07-17-2008, 05:04 PM
I really hate SMD components...

superslash1994
07-18-2008, 04:07 PM
Hey dudes, wonder if you can help me out here.

I recently bought a cheap wah, and want to re-wire it.

I don't want to re post the entire thing on here due to huge pics, so here's the link to my thread.

http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?p=15330043

Many thanks, Louis.

Invader Jim
07-18-2008, 04:58 PM
[facepalm]

Read through the thread. The first post has PLENTY of mods.

kurtlives91
07-18-2008, 11:22 PM
^^to be honest I would throw that wah away. Its a plastic shell, its not worth it imo.

some bozo
07-19-2008, 05:47 PM
Hi all,
I've tried the volume pedal mod on my GCB 95 by disconnecting the 4.7F cap from earth and the result is a bit half assed - doesn't go all the way to zero volume and sounds quite lo-fi and lacking treble. If anyone has tried the Jen mod ( adding a cap and resistor around the 0.01F cap) is this any better ?

If anyone's interested, I tried both mods on switches and the results are in...

The treble-sucking problem when using as volume pedal was partly due to the pot being worn, once I replaced that it was better, but still noticable if I run just the earth-disconnection mod. If run the Jen mod at the same time the sound quality is much better, almost transparent, but the volume is lower, i.e. max and min volume are both lower than with just the earth-lift mod. If I run just the Jen mod without the earth lift I get a combined wah and volume effect which can get you some cool 70s synth envelope effects if used after distortion.
Overall I prefer the more hi-fi sound of both mods together but it's good to have the low-treble option available for soft organ-like clean chord swells.

WtrPlyr
07-21-2008, 09:26 AM
How do I replace the fasel inductor of my wah? I bought a red fasel but it only has two pins and if I turn the PCB around I see the stock fasel is mounted with 4 pins? What do I have to solder/unsolder?

imgod22222
07-27-2008, 07:41 PM
wtrplyr, i think the 4 pins are for different inductor sizes. put it in any two it fits in. there's no specific orientation.

and in case anyone's been wondering--i have no money now :( so i can't do any soldering. plus i didn't order all the parts. I'll probably salvage some off my previous crybaby build.

Also, AP hw is a bitch. i just spent the past 3 days reading a book called Jane Eyre... its 527 pgs of pure hell. (At least when you have an assignment due for it) So, there's my explanation for my inactivity. The stuff is due the 31st so hopefully after then you guys will see alot more of me back in the forum. =]

Invader Jim
07-27-2008, 08:20 PM
I've never had any money, so don't feel bad.

I'm finally getting a job, now though ;).

imgod22222
07-28-2008, 10:33 AM
I spent all last week driving all over my town for a job. Its a good thing my parents pay for gas, 'cuz I don't think any manager would hire me just because my car ran out of gas outside their store. =[
Well my dad is friends with a guy who owns his own company so if he could pull some strings, i'd be happy. =]
*Saving up for an eee pc*

sugarcrash
07-28-2008, 10:14 PM
Alright, so I'm replacing the stock .01 uF capacitor in my Crybaby Original with a .022 uF capacitor. A have a rev h model, and the uF capacitor reads: 10n J 100 (10 n of course is the same thing as .01 uF). I understand that the J represents the tolerance, but what does the 100 mean? I'm guessing it's voltage, and if so, if I'm going to replace it, does it need to be a .022 uF 100 volt capacitor? I hope not, because Small Bear Electronics only carries 600 volt and 630 Volt .022 uF capacitors. Could someone please clear this up for me?

AndyPandy
07-29-2008, 10:35 AM
Can anyone see any problems with replacing the 33kohm resistor in a gcb-95 with a DPDT toggle switch that switches in either a 68kohm or the stock 33kohm resistor? I cant think of any reason it wouldnt work, but I'm no expert on wah circuits.

Edit: went for it:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/AndyPandy_album/DSC00026.jpg
Its not pretty, but it seems to work. Any ideas what else I could be doing while i'm at it. i've got a couple more switches, and no idea what else can be done really.

while im here, the outside at the moment:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/AndyPandy_album/DSC00028.jpg
Needs more paint, so the sharpie writing will be covered up eventually.

Invader Jim
07-29-2008, 03:06 PM
Sugarcrash: Yes, that's voltage. It doesn't need to be 100v, and even if it did, 600 and 630 are better b/e they have higher voltage tolerance.

Remember, there's only 9v running through it.

Andy: try using a 100k resistor instead of 68k (100k was used in Jimi's Vox Clyde McCoy).

sugarcrash
07-29-2008, 09:13 PM
k thnx alot jim :D
also, does it matter what kind of capacitor it is?
oh and, if i add a 100k pot linear to control the "woh" and "wah" effect, what wattage should that 100k pot be? how about the 500 ohm pot to control the bass/response?
cheers :D

Invader Jim
07-30-2008, 05:46 PM
1/4 watt pots will work, but I'd advise against a Q (wah/woh) pot, as there are only 3 good sweet spots (33k, 68k, 100k).

Something really cool: remove the gain/bass resistor (or just lift one leg). It sounds so cool...

As for caps: Ceramics are noisy and harsh sounding. Poly films are ok (standard), tantalums are great for audio (but kinda expensive), and electrolytics (polarized and non-polarized) aren't friendly to bass or treble freqs. It'd also be good to scavenge old electronic stuff from the '60s/'70s for a sweep cap (make sure it hasn't deviated from it's original value, though). The drawback is that it may be a bit nore noisy. I've got some old caps from the '50s that don't even look like the caps we know today :cool:.

grantjames
08-01-2008, 07:53 AM
I want to do the adjustable vocal mod mentioned in the link below...

http://www.stinkfoot.se/andreas/diy/mods/dunlop.htm#_modding_the_wah

I have a 100k linear trimpot and I was just going to make it internal, but the thing is too big to fit in the tiny gap so I'm going to have to have wires coming off it and drill a hole or something to poke it through.

Does anyone have any tips on how best to make it into an external knob? I'm not sure how I'd get it to stay in place once I've poked the adjustable bit through a hole.

Also, exactly what type of wire should be used?

Thanks.

EDIT: Oh, and could anyone explain what it means on that site about "setting the correct value on the trimpot before installing"?

EDIT AGAIN: I've just realised it has a washer and a nut on it so it should be fairly easy to attach it to the side of the pedal now.

Its Just Me
08-01-2008, 08:17 AM
I want to do the adjustable vocal mod mentioned in the link below...

http://www.stinkfoot.se/andreas/diy/mods/dunlop.htm#_modding_the_wah

I have a 100k linear trimpot and I was just going to make it internal, but the thing is too big to fit in the tiny gap so I'm going to have to have wires coming off it and drill a hole or something to poke it through.

Does anyone have any tips on how best to make it into an external knob? I'm not sure how I'd get it to stay in place once I've poked the adjustable bit through a hole.

Also, exactly what type of wire should be used?

Thanks.

Maybe instead of using a trimpot use a 100k linear pot but, as invader jim has just stated, there are only 3 real 'sweet spots' (33K, 68k, 100k) for this mod, use a rotary switch (1 pole 6 positions) and you can switch between them.

EDIT: Oh, and could anyone explain what it means on that site about "setting the correct value on the trimpot before installing"?

Might be a good idea to read up on trimpots if you dont know what this means, simply set it to the value, resistance you want it at, as it acts as a resistor. Do you have a multimeter?

grantjames
08-01-2008, 08:27 AM
No I don't have a multimeter. I don't see how I could adjust the trimpot in any way. All is has is a knob you can turn. It looks like this: http://img.alibaba.com/photo/11615159/Japan_Sakae_FCP22E_Single_turn_Potentiometer.jpg

I think I'll just use the pot/trimpot (I don't have a clue what the difference is, lol) for now rather than a switch because I can't be bothered to go all the way to town to get a switch.

EDIT: Ooooh, ok. So a trimpot is a "set and forget" pot that will rarely get changed (such as setting the bias of an amp). So what I have is a standard pot. So basically I shouldn't need to "set" it before installing should I? As I'll be able to tweek it to my heart's content.

Invader Jim
08-01-2008, 03:34 PM
Yeah, and about that rotary switch: you'd want a 1P3T (single pole, 3 position). Not a 1P6T.

thellamaking
08-01-2008, 06:01 PM
i have to post for my friend who's banhammered :p:

I modded my GCB-95 today, by replacing the 1.5k with a 2.2, the 33k with a 50k, the 470 ohm resistor with a 270, and the 0.01uF cap with a 0.022uF cap. The cap is ceramic, but I have a poly film one to replace it with. Poly film > ceramic right? Alright, the problem is that the Crybaby doesn't work anymore. I can't get any pics of the PCB at the moment, but I'm pretty sure I may have made a mistake while soldering. What other stuff could be the problem? Resistors that are soldered in place shouldn't be able to move right? I know caps would end up moving because of their shapes. Thanks in advance.

Invader Jim
08-01-2008, 10:15 PM
Resistors that are soldered in place shouldn't move. Tantalum>poly film>ceramic.

kurtlives91
08-01-2008, 10:20 PM
^Film is better than tantalum

Very opinionated answer, but that's a general consensus.

Invader Jim
08-01-2008, 10:35 PM
Ok, then. My bad.

sugarcrash
08-03-2008, 04:41 AM
I have a really ****ty desoldering pump, and i had to reheat the solder on this joint like 20 times to get the solder off. as a result, it looks like ive burnt the pad, and when i try to solder a new component there the solder wont take to the pad. i was modifying the 33k resistor. the wah still works, but there is no sweep and is really muddy. could someone please help?, as im out of a wah pedal rite now ):

grantjames
08-03-2008, 05:37 AM
I have a really ****ty desoldering pump, and i had to reheat the solder on this joint like 20 times to get the solder off. as a result, it looks like ive burnt the pad, and when i try to solder a new component there the solder wont take to the pad. i was modifying the 33k resistor. the wah still works, but there is no sweep and is really muddy. could someone please help?, as im out of a wah pedal rite now ):

I had a problem similar to this. Just make sure there's enough solder to make sure it connects to the line coming off the component (on the green side of the circuit board).

As for the not sticking...I think that's due to not heating the area up enough. With enough heat it should melt right down and stick in place.

Invader Jim
08-03-2008, 03:05 PM
Sounds like you burned the pad off. If so, get a wire and jumper the component leg to a spot where the trace connects to.

UpTheIrons!
08-03-2008, 03:21 PM
How easy are the Dunlop Hendrix wahs to mod?

sugarcrash
08-04-2008, 02:38 AM
http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w321/sugarcrash56/BurntPad.jpg

I hope you can get a good idea from that picture.
So, i'm supposto put the resistor leg through that burnt pad hole, jumper a wire on the end of that leg, and attach the other end of the wire to a point where the trace touches? where would I attach it? Pics would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

uberhyped
08-04-2008, 06:35 AM
Hey guys, I need some advice on how i should mod my gcb95 crybaby to give it more wah-strength. It gets really weak when i go up to the higher notes and when i use distortion (i only rely on amp distortion from my roland cube 20).

Oh, and wah modding is like greek to me. I'm a total noob... so bear with me.
Thanks =]

Invader Jim
08-04-2008, 02:28 PM
Sorry, crash, but that pic is too far away. I can't see anything. Get a close up of the area in question, not the whole board (which looks fine other than the pad). Resize the pic to 640x480 and save it as a jpg in MSPaint to reduce the file size for my gay dial-up.

Sorry, uberhyped. Either read the first few pages of the thread or wait for someone else.

sugarcrash
08-04-2008, 07:03 PM
I tried zooming, but the pic gets all blurry and you can't even see anything. I can try describing it for you. The pad, basically, has turned a brownish color, but the pad is still there, it's just as if this brown stuff has covered the silver pad. And then it gets kind of splotchy around it. That's why I think the solder won't attach: because it needs contact with the actual pad but it seems like this brown stuff (i'm guessing its from overheating) is preventing the solder from reaching the pad. So if you mean did the pad actually FALL off, physically, no it didn't. And could I just use your method anyways? Oh and if you don't mind answering my previous post''s question. Thanks.

Invader Jim
08-05-2008, 02:20 AM
Just do that thing I said. Solder the component leg to anywhere the trace goes. Doesn't matter where as long as it's not after the trace stops at a component...

FFR, don't zoom. just set the camera to 'macro' (close-up) and get right up to it as close as ossible w/o it blurring...

sugarcrash
08-05-2008, 03:39 AM
Oh okay thanks.
And by anywhere, do you mean I can actually solder on the actual trace? or solder on top of an already soldered component that touches the trace?

uberhyped
08-05-2008, 06:45 AM
Sorry, uberhyped. Either read the first few pages of the thread or wait for someone else.

Oh ok.. sorry. Looks like what I need is a gain mod. Thanks :bounce:

Invader Jim
08-05-2008, 03:56 PM
crash: The green stuff is solder mask, so you can't solder onto it witout scraping some off. Besides, it's easier to solder onto a component that touches the trace.

guitar_slinger8
08-09-2008, 10:24 PM
hey can someone tell me how to wire a toggle switch to swith between 2 different resistors for the vocal mod?

Invader Jim
08-10-2008, 04:52 PM
It's an SPDT switch. Doesn't matter which wire goes in which hole.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3289/2751144768_8434e8f1b7_m.jpg

kurtlives91
08-10-2008, 05:03 PM
^^You could aslo use the DPDT switch method I told you about..

AngusJimiKeith
08-11-2008, 05:52 PM
Ok, so im startin to get pissed off as hell at my GCB-95. as of now its stock, but i plan on puttin in a fasel....thats not what pisses me off..yet..when i rock the thing, it seems as if the pedal "skips" the mids entirely, its goes from low straight to high with almost no "wah" sound whatsoever...i tried ressetting the pot or whatever u call it if when u manually turn the pot a couple of notches...my luck, that made it worse any mods that could fix this problem? or will the fasel help alot? or is somthing busted?

hope that made sense and someone actually reads through it....thanks in advance

Invader Jim
08-11-2008, 06:27 PM
Batteries?

AngusJimiKeith
08-11-2008, 08:08 PM
^ac adapter

~Shred Hero~
08-11-2008, 08:53 PM
Are there mods available for the dunlop DB-01 Crybaby from Hell?

Invader Jim
08-12-2008, 12:02 AM
I think the CFH is SMT/Digital. Either way, it's a bitch to mod.

Sorry, Angus. IDK what to tell you. :(

guitar_slinger8
08-12-2008, 02:37 AM
It's an SPDT switch. Doesn't matter which wire goes in which hole.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3289/2751144768_8434e8f1b7_m.jpg
if both resistors are connected together, wouldnt that mess with the values or cause problems?

kurtlives91
08-12-2008, 11:13 AM
^No...

AngusJimiKeith
08-12-2008, 03:00 PM
Sorry, Angus. IDK what to tell you. :(

anything and everything to push my build
(and thus operation tube amp) back....now i may need a new wah!!! AHHHHH!!! well, at least i can buy the one that already has the fasel and true bypass so i can concentrate on other mods ;)

RiSSaN DeSu
08-13-2008, 04:11 PM
This thread is the awesomness. just wanted to thank Y'all :cheers:
.
first time to solder anything, and i still dunno much about circuits.
thumbs up to post number 40. thank you Pink, (and stinkfoot website) :p
.
1)changed the 1.5K resistor to a 2.2K ... really smoothed out the transition! ( i recommend)
2)changed the 33K resistor to 68K ... distortion wah sounds clearer (not sure what it did exactly... but wah sounds clearly)
3)moved the mechanical toothed bar just one tooth closer to the bassier side. no more shrills.
.
.
AngusJimiKeith <<<< you must do the first mod i mentioned. MUST !

AngusJimiKeith
08-13-2008, 04:16 PM
^thanks, its alot better to do a ten-cent mod than buy a $100 pedal (especially when u just blew all ur cash on the parts for a guitar build)

AngusJimiKeith
08-13-2008, 05:34 PM
ok, so im definately doing the 2.2k resistor mod on my wah, but i need to know two things first: what wattage resistor should i use? and
carbon film, carbon comp, or metal film?

im new to the world of pedal modding.....

Invader Jim
08-13-2008, 06:04 PM
Carbon film, 1/4 watt.

guitar_slinger8
08-16-2008, 05:38 PM
so for the vocal mod, which resistors would give me a stronger wah sound?

Invader Jim
08-16-2008, 09:37 PM
I swear, it's like nobody reads this thread anymore.

68k or 100k. Higher value=more vocal.

Most people use 68k, but why stop there? Jimi used a Vox Clyde, and they have (or had at least) 100k in there.

Wonder what 250k would sound like...

Dix_Fix
08-16-2008, 11:15 PM
Im finally pulling out my old Boss PW-1 Wah to mod it again. I'll try & post pics

guitar_slinger8
08-17-2008, 02:55 AM
I swear, it's like nobody reads this thread anymore.

68k or 100k. Higher value=more vocal.

Most people use 68k, but why stop there? Jimi used a Vox Clyde, and they have (or had at least) 100k in there.

Wonder what 250k would sound like...


:) thanks for that, would going with a higher vocal resitor make the wah more treblley, i think im gonna try the 250k resistor and ill telll u how it sounds

Invader Jim
08-17-2008, 03:31 PM
Cool. :peace:

guitar_slinger8
08-17-2008, 11:18 PM
wat i wanna do is wire a toggle switch for the vocal mod which will have to options to choose from a 68k resistor and 47k resistor wired in parallell with a 100k pot which will give me lots of options experiment and at the same time be able to go to a my stock setting of a 68 k resistor with flick of a switch

Invader Jim
08-17-2008, 11:39 PM
Get a SPDT rotary and wire the resistor and resistor/pot to the throws (positions) and the Pole comes from a resistor hole.

guitar_slinger8
08-18-2008, 12:42 AM
well i have a dpdt switch right now sow ill just use that, its probably better with the dpdt cause wverything will look neater, but first i wanna try the 200k resitor to see how it sounds

ill try also try to replace my inductor soon, im thinking of the whipple, but not sure of how it would sond with gain though...

kurtlives91
08-18-2008, 10:33 AM
After 100K there is no audible change that can be perceived by the human ear.

guitar_slinger8
08-18-2008, 12:19 PM
oh really, i guess you learn somethin new every day :p:

mods i've done
1. gain&bass-330 ohm
2.mids- 2.2k
3.vocald mode- toggle from 47k(thinkin of changin 100k) to 68k
4. sweep cap- i have jh-1 so means i already had it on :rolleyes:

future mods
1. true bypass
2.sweep cap- toggle between 0.015uf and 0.02
3.install fisshy caps
4.inductor-thinkin of replacin with whiple or yellow fasel(suggestions would br appreciated) :peace:

Invader Jim
08-18-2008, 06:04 PM
Whipple FTW.

guitar_slinger8
08-18-2008, 06:58 PM
ill probably go with the whipple

imgod22222
08-21-2008, 07:35 PM
hey guys, my build is on a hiatus--summer's ended, i'm a senior in highschool taking 5 AP classes, and today's my second day and i have homework on all my classes. I can never pay attention so that's where I have time to write this post. I have (most, if not all) of my parts from either a previous build or new metal film and poly film parts with the same crap inductor (unknown). I made a talkbox in about a half hour with random stuff lying around, around midnight before the first day of school and I think that's all the time i'll have for making any effects any time soon. I'll try my best to help in this topic whenever I get a chance to browse through UG, just wanted to say hey to my buds Invader_Jim and Nezek, so... "Hey" =]

Maybe sometime before i actually finish my wah i can show you guys my proto-wah with conductive ink, paper, and cardboard. Don't plan on it though.

Something I'm more likely to get around to before making my wah (sadly. weep now) is my friend gave me an old 50w RMS car stereo and craptastic speakers from the 80's, I'll try to see if the amplifying stage can be mucked around with and turned into a nice, free 50w amplifier to go with the 4 paper speakers he gave me. I'm thinking about poking holes in one for some good 'ol fashioned fuzz. As I actually get free time to myself (which is hard. freshmen girls find me attractive, evidently =]) and accomplish these things I'll try my hardest to get some build threads.

-Peace out, UG! Until I return!

hendriko
08-22-2008, 11:44 AM
o_O

the whipple's gone?!?

stoneattic
08-23-2008, 02:01 PM
Hi, first post here and all that...

I have a Crybaby GCB-95 from around the mid-eighties that I converted to true bypass and added a rotary switch to change caps and well as convert it to a volume pedal. The problem is when I turn it on there's a bit of a volume drop. I've found plenty of references to lowering the input resistor from 68k to 47k (or so) but all of them show a different PCB. On top of that none of the resistors on my board appear to be 68k. My board looks like this (not my page, but same layout). Has anyone seen this layout and know which is the reisistor to change?

http://www.pisotones.com/varios/CryBaby/CryBaby.htm

Even though the layout is the same some of the values are different on mine. I bought mine new so I know there are no mods besides the ones I listed above.

thanks!

Invader Jim
08-23-2008, 05:55 PM
Just find the resistor connected to the input jack's tip. It'll also be connected to a .01uF cap going to the base of Q1.

BTW, when did you buy that? That's an older model. :eek:

Here:
This is it, I think. Not too sure, though. Just go by my decription.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3081/2790864288_475d78fa2d_o.jpg

kurtlives91
08-23-2008, 06:03 PM
I have repaired a few of those really old Cry Babies...

Its easy to spot the 68K resistor in them... because there is only one 68K resistor. Those old wahs are much simpler no buffers... 68K always sticks out at me...I always recognize them, damn grid stoppers.

Invader Jim
08-23-2008, 06:20 PM
I can't tell what the colors are on that one.

stoneattic
08-24-2008, 11:24 AM
Thanks for the responses. That's the layout but many of the values for the resistors are different on mine. The cap values and Q 1& 2 (5117) are the same though. There are no 68k resistors on mine. Here's a pic of mine where you can see that the value for that resistor looks like it 390.

http://stoneattic.homelinux.com/public/wah/board_sm.jpg

There's a higher res pic here where you can see the resistor values pretty clearly: http://stoneattic.homelinux.com/public/wah/board.jpg

Ignore the black wires, they are the mods I've done (cap switch and true bypass).

I'm thinking about just just trying some lower values on R2 (220 maybe) but I'd rather have some direction rather than just blindly trying different values.

BTW, I bought it new around 85 or so. (Yeah I'm old).

Invader Jim
08-24-2008, 03:51 PM
Finally, someone who knows how to use a camera. :p:

The first page has all the mod resistors and some good values to try.

This beats all I've ever seen. I can't find anything that may be a volume resistor.

Find the first resistor in series with the input jack's tip. That'll be it. It'll also be in series with a .01uF cap (as I said before). If I could see the traces and the wire coming fron the jack, I could tell you myself. It's not hard to find, though.

stoneattic
08-24-2008, 04:51 PM
The input resistor is in the same place as where the 68K usually is, except it's 390. I guess the same logic of lower value should give some additional volume still stands? Any ideas on values to start with?

Invader Jim
08-24-2008, 04:56 PM
That's wierd...

IDK. 270?

If 390 is the volume resistor, that thing should be so loud that it distorts and does other bad things...

kurtlives91
08-24-2008, 05:23 PM
The 68K is not a "volume" resistor thought it does affect the signal level. Change it as you must put you will be affecting the input impedance.

390R is way too low...that resistor is for sure the first feedback stabilizing resistor on the first transistors emitter. I sets the bias of that stage.

stoneattic
08-24-2008, 05:24 PM
I put a 510 in parallel with the 390, which should be about 220, and heard no obvious difference in volume. It MIGHT have lost a little tiny bit of low end.

Here's a shot of the back of the board.

http://stoneattic.homelinux.com/public/wah/board_back_sm.jpg

Invader Jim
08-25-2008, 12:13 AM
I'm aware of all that, but I'm just trying to keep it simple.

Stoneattic: Now that we have a pic, where is the input going to?

stoneattic
08-25-2008, 12:23 AM
I believe the input is the green wire, which is all the way to the left in the pic with components on it.

Invader Jim
08-25-2008, 12:38 AM
Well, I was right then. The input resistor on yours is a 390. On the pic in the link, however, it's a 510.... But it's odd that the input resistor goes straght to the emitter of Q1.

Unless, of course, that the green wire isn't the input.

IDK wtf is going on.

stoneattic
08-25-2008, 08:45 AM
Just to clarify, by the input you are referring to the tip of the 1/4" input jack right?

I'm pretty sure that is the green wire. Since it was converted to true bypass it's not as straight forward to follow but I'm pretty sure that the green wire is it. I'll double check when I get home tonight.

Also I'm kind of confused by your 510 reference. Are you saying that the resistor in the location you circled is 510? It's orange-white-brown = 390. I even measured it to be sure.

Invader Jim
08-25-2008, 06:27 PM
In that pic I edited, it's blue-black-brown (at least that's what it looks like), which is actually 600R (my bad). On yours, however, it's a 390R. I'm starting to think that yours has no series resistor (maybe you removed it in the TB conversion?).

And yes, I mean the tip of the 1/4" input jack.

stoneattic
08-25-2008, 06:46 PM
I just checked it visually and with a DMM. I'm 100% sure that the green wire is the input. I didn't pull it doing the TB conversion. You can see there are no empty spots on the PCB except where I pulled the cap directly above the resistor in question.

I'm happy with the wah's sound and the flexibility after adding the cap switch but I just need some more volume when I turn it on. It lame to hit it to go into some great wah drenched solo and no one can hear me. :)

Invader Jim
08-25-2008, 06:54 PM
Well, is there any way you could trace it? If you made a schem for it, it'd be easier to tell you. IDK why, but it looks like that 390 is the series resistor, even though it makes no sense.

Invader Jim
08-25-2008, 07:12 PM
Ok, here's (supposedly) a schem of yours. The series resistor is circled. Is yours anything like this?

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3095/2797393641_5e1b430a5c_o.gif

kurtlives91
08-25-2008, 07:13 PM
There is no way a 390R resistor could be used for the input.... I already tsaid what it is being used for.

One end is tied to ground isnt it?

Invader Jim
08-25-2008, 07:26 PM
^That's what I'm saying, chris. He said the green wire all the way to the left on the connecter is from the input, and it leads straght to a 390R resistor. It makes no sense.

stoneattic
08-25-2008, 07:40 PM
There is no way a 390R resistor could be used for the input.... I already tsaid what it is being used for.

One end is tied to ground isnt it?

Nope, the other end is not tied to ground.

The signal runs from the green lead (input) through that resistor to a .01uF cap to one of the legs of Q1. It's the same as Invader Jim posted with a 390 where the 68K should be. The other legs of Q1 go though resistors to ground and +9v as the schematic shows except there's no diode or 1K resistor of .0011uF cap between the +9v source and the 22k resistor. Everything else looks the same except mine has a 100K resistor where the schematic has an 82K.

kurtlives91
08-25-2008, 07:43 PM
How do you know it is 390R? Did you measure with a DMM? If so your reading wont be right cause a cap is charging.

Invader Jim
08-25-2008, 07:53 PM
IDK. I give up... He's all yours, kurtlives91.

stoneattic
08-25-2008, 07:58 PM
How do you know it is 390R? Did you measure with a DMM? If so your reading wont be right cause a cap is charging.

The colors are orange-white-brown and it does read 390. You can see the colors pretty clearly here:

http://stoneattic.homelinux.com/public/wah/board.jpg

ii ndica ii
08-31-2008, 05:39 PM
Hey all, seems to be some pretty knowledgeable people in this thread so im hopping someone can help me out. My orginal thread is here.

http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=904714&highlight=broken+wah

Simply put, bought a near brand new wah off ebay and it dosnt work. I get a signal to amp but when i click foot switch, nothing, Just same old tone. IVe test to see if switch is good with volt meter and all appear to be well. Can anyone here recommend something else i mite check? This circuit board is amazingly simple yet it hands me my ass, im at my wits end and all help would be greatly appreciated. Btw, just basic cry baby 95. Thanks e.

Invader Jim
08-31-2008, 11:59 PM
Looks like the middle leg of that transistor (flat side up) is broken? Also, check the input jack connection (maybe bad power switching) and maybe try a new switch?

smallbearelec.com sells the switches.

Pics of the bottom of the pcb would help too.

kurtlives91
09-01-2008, 04:44 PM
Built me a second wah... Vox V847 clone with a few mods here and there.

This one has the vintage feel to it more than my modded Crybaby. Its not as vocal and spanky more vintage voiced if you will. Anyways I like it.

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/2161/dscf0100fl4.jpg

I'm a sucker for mojo... NOS carbon comps, metal cans, tropical fish, solid core cloth wire
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/6008/dscf0104ec6.jpg

Invader Jim
09-01-2008, 08:30 PM
^From the guy who told me not to use NOS components earlier in this thread...

Anyway, looks great. Sound clips?

edit: Where do you get your cloth solid core wire?

Whipple FTW.

kurtlives91
09-01-2008, 08:34 PM
Well now I can talk from first hand experience Jim about mojo in wahs....this wah sounds great! It has nothing to do with component materials though, it is strictly values.

I used NOS crap mainly cause I had it. I also didnt have a bottom plate so when I sound some plexi I was settled on the NOS idea.

kurtlives91
09-01-2008, 08:36 PM
I get my wire from Hoffman amps...

You used a Whipple? How do you like em? I found my Fasels much more vocal and lively... Not complaining at all as they both compliment each other... Yet to try a Halo.

Invader Jim
09-01-2008, 08:58 PM
Before my wah died, I slapped a whipple and a 100k Q resistor in there and it blew me away. It sounded so vintage-ey and smooth. Had just the perfect amount of quack and wasn't too trebley. I loved it. Then I did more mods and destroyed the wah, so now I have no wah and no money for a new one. :mad:

kurtlives91
09-01-2008, 09:00 PM
Do you have the voltages on the transistors handy? I learned a few new things about debugging transistors... Maybe I could help?

When did the wah stop working...after what mod?

Invader Jim
09-01-2008, 09:09 PM
Back when I was a dumbass, I replaced the "mod resistors" with pots. Somehow, it just quit after that. Like flipping a switch; one minute it works, the next it doesn't.

I salvaged the important components (the new trannies I bought for it, the zener diode, jacks, Whipple, pot, and switch) and trashed the rest. The board was so trashed that I'm not surprised it didn't work. Traces had peeled off and I jumpered them with component legs and stuff. I checked every single trace with a DMM cont. checker and all the component values and transistor gains and everything checked out, but it just didn't wanna work.

I rebuilt that stupid thing 4 times and tried for a Clyde clone about 5 times (using some of the same components) and neither worked (I built on breadboard).

edit: The Whipple is supposed to be an exact tonal replica of the good Halos. Mike says his tolerances are less than 1% and that his inductors are all hand-wound.

edge11
09-01-2008, 11:43 PM
Any mods for the bad horsie 2?

Invader Jim
09-02-2008, 03:41 PM
I think those are digital. Don't quote me on that, though.

Digital=Modding/repairing nightmare.

kurtlives91
09-02-2008, 04:00 PM
Nah they arent digital... there are mods out there but I cant be bothered to find them right now. If you found be a schem I could suggest a few things...

Invader Jim
09-02-2008, 04:14 PM
All I can find is a "Steve Vai Switchless Wah".

derekwalden_-33
09-03-2008, 02:27 PM
Ok, so I just bought a Crybaby (95) and I want to turn it into a bass wah. Change a cap, simple. But which one? I found a site that had the input cap of both the guitar and bass version a .01 input cap. That is the one being discussed right, the one coming right off the jack?

forsaknazrael
09-03-2008, 02:29 PM
From a google search:
"Sweep Range

Change the sweep by swapping the 0.01F cap between the emitter of Q2 and the inductor. A smaller value will make the wah sweep more trebly and vice-versa. If you're converting to or from a bass wah, this is the one to change. Try 0.068F for a bass wah. "

forsaknazrael
09-03-2008, 02:30 PM
I get my wire from Hoffman amps...

You used a Whipple? How do you like em? I found my Fasels much more vocal and lively... Not complaining at all as they both compliment each other... Yet to try a Halo.
I likes my whipple. My co-guitarist has a red fasel, sounds a bit thicker? Haven't used my wah in a while.

derekwalden_-33
09-03-2008, 02:42 PM
From a google search:
"Sweep Range

Change the sweep by swapping the 0.01F cap between the emitter of Q2 and the inductor. A smaller value will make the wah sweep more trebly and vice-versa. If you're converting to or from a bass wah, this is the one to change. Try 0.068F for a bass wah. "


:eek:

So, which one is it? Haha, sorry. :(

forsaknazrael
09-03-2008, 02:53 PM
it's the .01uF cap between the emitter and the inductor. Look at a schematic, and follow the path along your circuit board. In fact, if you google 'wah mods', the first link will have pictures of thje Crybaby circuit board, labeling some of the parts. Google is your friend.

derekwalden_-33
09-03-2008, 02:58 PM
Whats the emitter?

Im a failure :sad:

forsaknazrael
09-03-2008, 03:05 PM
on the wah's transistors, there are 3 terminals, C, B, and E. Collector, Base, Emitter. The schematic will show this. The wah uses NPN transistors, so on the schematic, the transistor will appear as a circle with a sideways Y in it. The the emitter is the line that has an arrow on it pointing outwards.

This is basic stuff you should know, if you're modding stuff. Go to generalguitargadgets.com, and read their tech articles, so you can read a schematic.
Here's a link to a schematic:
http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/wahpedl/wahped.htm#howwah
scroll down a little bit.
See the .01uF cap between Q2 and the 500mH inductor?

Also, if you even tried to google "wah mods", like i told you, you'd have found this page at the very top:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.castledine/greenfuz/wah.html
Scroll down, they have circuit boards of both vox and dunlop wahs, labeling the Sweep cap you're looking for.

derekwalden_-33
09-03-2008, 03:12 PM
:facepalm:
Thanks, I get it now.

forsaknazrael
09-03-2008, 03:16 PM
Notice I mentioned NPN transistors. On PNP trannies, the symbol is slightly different.

You may also want to adjust the vocal resistor. 100K might help a lot, in your case.

Penn100
09-09-2008, 10:36 AM
Hey,

I've got a 535Q Crybaby, and wonder if there's a way to place a LED (or two, one for the boost) on it, to show wheter it's turned on and if it is in normal or volume boost mode.

forsaknazrael
09-09-2008, 11:08 AM
You should be able to do it so it lights the LED when it turns on, but you will need to make it have a 3PDT switch.
Don't know about the boost mode, didn't know they had one.

Penn100
09-09-2008, 11:16 AM
The boost mode is activated by a little switch on the side that you can push in.

My Crybaby has got no LED in the first place, so I guess I'll have to drill a hole or something?

Thanks for the help, anyway.

forsaknazrael
09-09-2008, 11:30 AM
Yes, you'd need to drill a hole.

I don't know how the bypass works on a 535Q, but it's probably still very similar to a GCB-95. Go on google, and search for "wah mods". The first link should have some instructions on how to convert yours to true bypass.

The 535Q may even already be true bypass. Open it up, and check if the switch has 6 lugs, or 3.

Penn100
09-09-2008, 02:12 PM
I'm not sure... but I think it's true bypass.

I read in a review that the bypass worked without batteries or power supply.

Invader Jim
09-09-2008, 02:33 PM
That doesn't always mean it's TB. A Crybaby (not TB) will work in the bypass mode without power, as does a TB pedal.

If it works in the bypass mode witout power, that simply means that it doesn't have logic switching like Ibanez, Boss, Digitech, and most other brands.

kurtlives91
09-09-2008, 03:44 PM
^Boss, Ibanez, Digitech all use elec switching... just a flip flop circuit.

Invader Jim
09-09-2008, 11:37 PM
That's what I said.

kurtlives91
09-10-2008, 08:59 AM
logic.....?

monkey_dancer
09-10-2008, 11:38 AM
Hey everybody, I've got some questions which is probably close enough to being about wah modding to be put here. :)

I'm going to build a wah circuit, but use a normal pot instead of the foot-controlled treadle-y pot. I'll set the sweep where I want it, and kick the pedal on, like having a wah in a fixed position, but I can set it more precisely, leave it exactly the same setting all the time, and still have a wah to use.

I'm using this circuit, for the original crybaby:
http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w356/monkey_dancer1/4514429.gif

Should I use an audio or linear pot?

I was also wondering, which, if any, components control the characters of the sound which will be noticable when the sweep position is fixed, rather than components which control the sweep range? I was thinking about subsituting any resistors which did this for pots (again, audio or linear?), and maybe putting in two switchable caps where there is currently one.

Plus, how would a 500mH inductor sound instead of the 660mH? I haven't managed to find a 660mH one anywhere.

Thanks for any help.

EDIT:Also, what jacks should I use? Stereo or Mono or a mixture?

DOUBLE EDIT: Another question! :p: I want to add an LED. Where should it go?
Man, I'm not good at this... :(

Invader Jim
09-10-2008, 02:06 PM
Chris: that's just what I call any electronic switching setup...

A 500mH inductor will sound better than the 660mH. 660mH is too muddy for most peoples' taste.

The 33k resistor across the inductor controls how vocal the wah is. 100k gives the best sound imho. Anything bigger than 100k won't make any difference to the sound, according to kurtlives91. The 470R resistor at the emitter of Q1 determines gain and bass response. Lower value=more gain/bass response. The 1k5 resistor between the inductor and base of Q1 determines midrange. Higher value=more mids.

Use an audio taper for the wah pot. Anything else is up to you.

To add an LED, get a DPDT switch (only if you aren't making true bypass) and use one side as the bypass side and on the other side, put a 3k3 resistor in series with the + leg of the LED. For true bypass: get a 3PDT switch and use one column for the LED (wire it as described above) and the other 2 for the bypass. PM me if you need a diagram...

For jacks, the input should be stereo (to switch on the battery with a plug inserted) and the output doesn't matter, but is usually mono.

Why would you not want the wah pot on a treadle? :confused:

kurtlives91
09-10-2008, 03:52 PM
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Logic_gate

Commercial pedals dont use that form of switching.

Invader Jim
09-10-2008, 10:23 PM
I know. That's just what I called it...You're making me really not like myself, man...

imgod22222
09-11-2008, 10:50 PM
monkey dancer, please see all my previous posts in the thread. seriously. there's a value on that schematic (.001uF) that's totally wrong and should be .22uF. Other than that I think invader jim answered all ur questions

Kevin Saale
09-12-2008, 06:02 PM
Anyone every play a thomas organ crybaby? The one I'm looking at is a late 60s-70s model. Looking for a very vocal vintagey sounding wah. How hard would it be to mod to true bypass and and make it so I can power it with a power supply? I'm assuming if it's not vocal enough that would be pretty easy to do to?

Penn100
09-14-2008, 05:11 PM
Ok, so once again... i need help...

I've had my Wah for about 10 months now, and pretty much from the start it's been doing squeaking noises whenever you use it. Like and old door.

Sure this is not a problem on louder volumes, or with a band, but at home, it can get really annoying.

Does anybody have any clue of how to fix this (the sound is coming from the pedal itself- the chassi-)?

Thanks in advance.

kurtlives91
09-14-2008, 05:15 PM
The "axle" where the wah pivots...the moveable footpad is attached too tight.

Grease it or loosen it..

Penn100
09-14-2008, 05:18 PM
Ok, thanks I will try that. :-)

SHRED.
09-21-2008, 11:30 PM
I have a vox v847 and i want to mod it for true bypass and a wider sweep. How can i go about doing this? also i get a crackle when i move the way up and down and pick up radio stations like ****ing spinal tap lol how can i fix that?

Invader Jim
09-22-2008, 12:14 AM
For the sweep/TB mods, read the first fricken page.

Crackle: clean the pot (spray contact cleaner into the hole under the lugs and rotate it several times with force).

Radio stations: crap grounding. Is it in a metal case> Wahs are especially bad about picking up RF if not properly grounded and shielded b/c they are very similar to a radio tuner (except tuners are variable caps, not pots).

SHRED.
09-22-2008, 12:27 AM
i didn't see anything on the first page specifying how to fix sweep and bypass for a vox v847.

forsaknazrael
09-22-2008, 01:34 AM
The Vox is the same circuit as a Crybaby. Pretty much 90% of wahs are all the same circuit, with some minor component differences.
Try the very first link...

Invader Jim
09-22-2008, 02:32 AM
^Actually, it'd be more correct to say 90% of inductor wahs.

Sorry for the nit-picking. Just thought I'd tell you, as I've learned the hard way that making blanket statements usually gets you pwned in the face...

kurtlives91
09-22-2008, 09:29 AM
Crackling is a bad pot or DC getting into your signal. Try replacing the 4.7mF electro before blowing $20 on a new pot.

SHRED.
09-22-2008, 12:23 PM
exactly which circuit do you have to change to get a wider sweep?

forsaknazrael
09-22-2008, 12:31 PM
^Wider? I'd say, you should shave off some of the rubber stopper's height on the rockers.

^Actually, it'd be more correct to say 90% of inductor wahs.

Sorry for the nit-picking. Just thought I'd tell you, as I've learned the hard way that making blanket statements usually gets you pwned in the face...
Mm...I see what you're saying, but I believe that 10% is more than enough to account for the Colorsound inductorless wah, Tim Escobedo's Idiot Wah, The Ibanez WH-10, the Tycobrahe Para Pedal, and the optical pot (Morley, Weeping Demon) wahs. Pretty much everything else is the same.

Invader Jim
09-22-2008, 04:24 PM
Hmm. I thought there would be more than that...

SHRED.
09-22-2008, 07:11 PM
ok i have never modded a wah pedal before and have no idea what to do. if someone could please specify how i can make it true bypass, give it a wider sweep, and more vocal i will...not **** your girlfriend! i posted some pics so you know what im working with. those are the insides of a vox v847 PLEASE help a brother out

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg26/backinthedaze/wah003.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg26/backinthedaze/wah002.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg26/backinthedaze/wah001.jpg

Invader Jim
09-22-2008, 08:09 PM
Use this link:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.castledine/greenfuz/wah.html

with this diagram:
It's the same as a V847, but a V847 has no input buffer or LED, and see the 3 components comming off the 9v adapter? V847s don't have that either.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3089/2880041279_69aae1f418_o.png

And I don't have a girlfriend, so no worries. :p:

:cheers:

forsaknazrael
09-22-2008, 08:58 PM
All that info you wanted IS on the first page, and I told you how to get a wider sweep.

Invader Jim
09-22-2008, 09:01 PM
Some people just wanna be dealt with personally...

kurtlives91
09-22-2008, 09:56 PM
Some people on UG (well most) are complete idiots though...

SHRED.
09-22-2008, 10:00 PM
o wow that diagram is ****ing awesome. just gotta learn how to read it, but that won't be a problem. o yeah and if you look at the third picture i posted the black thing at the top only has 3 spots for the wire to connect all the other pics i see there are usually four is that weird?

Invader Jim
09-22-2008, 10:07 PM
No, that's how older Crybabies are wired. Output jack switching.

SHRED.
09-23-2008, 12:14 AM
and where can i buy the new parts at?

forsaknazrael
09-23-2008, 12:39 AM
smallbearelec.com.

SHRED.
09-23-2008, 01:42 AM
whoa sweet and what parts will i need for bypass sweep and vocal?

forsaknazrael
09-23-2008, 03:08 AM
If you read the web pages given to you, they give some ideas for ideal sweep capacitors and vocal resistors.

Eggness
09-23-2008, 07:33 AM
I did the mod to give my wah more midrange, but it still sounds dull when I heel down. Should I switch the 2.7K resistor I put in for a higher resistance one?

kurtlives91
09-23-2008, 08:33 AM
Try a 2K2 instead.

WtrPlyr
09-23-2008, 12:26 PM
Is there any mod to make the sweep of my crybaby more smooth? Because when you move your foot it just cuts the treble at one point, it's not really a smooth transition.

Invader Jim
09-23-2008, 12:29 PM
New pot? Sounds like it could be a crappy taper.

WtrPlyr
09-23-2008, 12:39 PM
I doubt that's the problem. A put a Fulltone pot in it about a year ago

Invader Jim
09-23-2008, 12:42 PM
I don't know what else it could be, then.

WtrPlyr
09-23-2008, 12:48 PM
I'll try to put in the old pot and see if it's any different, but I highly doubt it. Otherwise the Fulltone pot sucks

kurtlives91
09-23-2008, 02:34 PM
Its not the pot's taper...

Try tweaking the pots rotation so your using a different portion of it. On 200K wah pots you only use about 75K of the sweep. You got a bunch of sounds out there you haven't discovered.

That's what I do with wahs before I start changing them, its called re-indexing them.

Invader Jim
09-23-2008, 02:39 PM
He said it cuts to the treble at a certain point, not that it was too trebly or bassy...

WtrPlyr
09-23-2008, 03:38 PM
Yeah, you know, the transition from heel to toe isn't really smooth. I guess Jim's right that it's the pot but yeah.. I payed 15 for that pot so it should be good you know :p:

kurtlives91
09-23-2008, 03:55 PM
He said it cuts to the treble at a certain point, not that it was too trebly or bassy...
And like I said re-indexing the pot can fix his issue...

That_Pink_Queen
09-23-2008, 09:11 PM
My thread is a monster!
Cheers!

WtrPlyr
09-24-2008, 10:56 AM
And like I said re-indexing the pot can fix his issue...

It doesn't work

forsaknazrael
09-24-2008, 12:40 PM
What are all the mods you've done to it?

Eggness
09-24-2008, 02:31 PM
Try a 2K2 instead.
I'll give that a try. Thanks

WtrPlyr
09-25-2008, 05:21 PM
What are all the mods you've done to it?

New pot, true-bypass, red fasel and a 100k Q-pot instead of the 33K resistor

forsaknazrael
09-25-2008, 07:14 PM
Ok. When you say the re-indexing the pot doesn't work, what do you mean?

AngusJimiKeith
09-25-2008, 07:17 PM
look back a couple of pages i had the same problem with my wah and there was a resistor swap that fixed it....

EDIT: page 242.

WtrPlyr
09-26-2008, 04:59 PM
Ok. When you say the re-indexing the pot doesn't work, what do you mean?
It doesn't solve my problem. By re-indexing you mean loosen that white thing turn the pot manually right? Or am I wrong?

Invader Jim
09-26-2008, 05:14 PM
Right.

forsaknazrael
09-26-2008, 07:07 PM
It doesn't solve my problem. By re-indexing you mean loosen that white thing turn the pot manually right? Or am I wrong?
Yes, you manually set where you want the rotation of the rocker to be. You're changing the range of the pot used.

SHRED.
09-26-2008, 09:30 PM
i have that crackle sound in my wah is it ok if i spray the pot with wd40?

forsaknazrael
09-26-2008, 09:44 PM
No, use contact cleaner.

WtrPlyr
09-27-2008, 12:25 PM
Yes, you manually set where you want the rotation of the rocker to be. You're changing the range of the pot used.

Ok, then it doesn't solve my problem. I'll try the AngusJimiKeith suggested (change the 1K5 tot 2K2

SHRED.
09-27-2008, 04:14 PM
ok i want more midrange what k should i go with to do this?

Invader Jim
09-27-2008, 04:17 PM
It's on the first page, man.

:facepalm:

SHRED.
09-27-2008, 04:25 PM
where on the first page?

Invader Jim
09-27-2008, 04:33 PM
I'm sorry, I thought they had this site linked:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.castledine/greenfuz/wah.html

Everything you'd ever want to do is on that page (except TB, which is linked to a seperate one).

SHRED.
09-27-2008, 04:35 PM
i tried to switch the midrange and took out the 1k5 and put in a 2.2k resistor but now my wah wont wah...did i use the wrong resistor?

Invader Jim
09-27-2008, 04:41 PM
No, it's the right one. Did you man-handle it too much and break off a wire somewhere?

SHRED.
09-27-2008, 04:44 PM
nah all the wires look fine :/

Invader Jim
09-27-2008, 04:48 PM
Pics?

(try to make them clear and no bigger than 640x480 please...)

SHRED.
09-27-2008, 04:50 PM
ok here ill send a pic in a sec

SHRED.
09-27-2008, 04:59 PM
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg26/backinthedaze/wahaftermod001.jpg

hope i didn't make it to big

Invader Jim
09-27-2008, 05:10 PM
Perfect :)

Looks good from the top. Got one for the bottom?

SHRED.
09-27-2008, 05:12 PM
here ill take one maybe i didn't get enough soder on the bottom. wait a sec and ill upload it.

Invader Jim
09-27-2008, 05:24 PM
That left one looks iffy, but other than that, it looks fine. :confused:

SHRED.
09-27-2008, 05:26 PM
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg26/backinthedaze/damnit.jpg

Invader Jim
09-27-2008, 05:29 PM
Like I said, the left one looks iffy, but it's fine other that that...

SHRED.
09-27-2008, 05:31 PM
alright im gonna go resolder it and see if it works better

Invader Jim
09-27-2008, 05:32 PM
If it doesn't, the idk what could be wrong.

SHRED.
09-27-2008, 06:15 PM
yay! it works movin on to the next mod ;)

Invader Jim
09-27-2008, 06:31 PM
:golfclap:

Whew...

SHRED.
09-27-2008, 07:08 PM
for wah sweep is a 0.001 capacitor to small?

kurtlives91
09-27-2008, 07:19 PM
Yes

SHRED.
09-27-2008, 07:27 PM
what is a good size?

kurtlives91
09-27-2008, 08:58 PM
0.01mF - 0.033mF for guitar.

cuthbertg
09-29-2008, 01:35 AM
Hi,

Apologies if this has been answered, I have looked and it's driving me mad

I'm modding my GCB-95 for true bypass + vocal mod - i'm looking at resistors on http://search.store.yahoo.net/cgi-bin/nsearch?catalog=yhst-8476489043850&query=resistor+wah&.autodone=http%3A%2F%2Fstore.tubedepot.com%2Fnsearch.html

I'm assuming I need carbon film resistors - they're brown like the ones in my wah.

Do I need 1 watt or 1/2 watt resistors?

Thanks

Invader Jim
09-29-2008, 01:40 AM
1/4 watt is 'standard' nowadays.

cuthbertg
09-29-2008, 02:26 AM
Thanks Jim!

Typical :rolleyes: - I have been ordering loads of kit over the last few days for modding my Les Paul and Vox amp and now my wah - why is it, that not one site has everything I need

::type (enters google search "one stop guitar parts shop")

Ticks & Leeches
10-02-2008, 01:41 PM
Is there a way to increase the resitance on the expression pedal on the cry baby? Cuz on mine its very loose.

Invader Jim
10-02-2008, 03:55 PM
Open it up and take out the PCB. You should see 2 screws. They hold a metal strap across the axle of the treadle. Simply tighten those screws a bit and reassemble the wah.

imgod22222
10-13-2008, 06:08 PM
=] I did the sweep mod, and I must say: the bass wah on a guitar gives a really nice swell effect, and the jimi hendrix wah cap sounds excellent. Makes the stock sounds a bit harsh. But stock stays true to the wah onomatopoeia.

Curious, what would be the best way to get higher treble out of it? I know you may think I'm crazy, but making the whole guitar sound brighter just seems like a nice idea (I know I should really just get a proper octave up pedal, but I don't have the bank to make one)

Invader Jim
10-13-2008, 06:16 PM
Lower the value of the sweep cap. This'll make the range more trebly (it'll change the range to the treble-end of the spectrum).

What's a Jimi hendrix sweep cap? A value or an actual cap?

kurtlives91
10-13-2008, 06:20 PM
haha nah its just a cap value. Not a special wah at all.

Invader Jim
10-13-2008, 06:26 PM
Hmm. Never heard of it called a Jimi Hendrix cap.

Goddamn, I gotta get a wah...:sad: **** it. I'll make one.

imgod22222
10-13-2008, 08:24 PM
Its a value... not a special cap. sorry to burst ur bubble dude. too forgetful to recall the value. Wouldn't it be trebler (is tht a word?) if I just used a jumper? Someday, i shall post a youtube clip and optimize it for audio quality. Should I ever get a break from school. And decent audio recording equipment.

imgod22222
10-13-2008, 08:27 PM
.0065 Mine
.008 Mine
TREBLE
.01 Stock
.015
.022 Jimi Hendrix
.068 Bass Wah
Are the values I used.
I'm missing one of the higher ones somehow tho O.o [only 5 settings currently]

SHRED.
10-14-2008, 08:04 PM
i want to put a .033 capacitor for a wider sweep what is a good voltage?

kurtlives91
10-14-2008, 08:26 PM
^16V will do just fine.

SHRED.
10-14-2008, 10:03 PM
thanks man you dudes who do this thread kick ass

kurtlives91
10-14-2008, 11:06 PM
Its a value... not a special cap. sorry to burst ur bubble dude. too forgetful to recall the value. Wouldn't it be trebler (is tht a word?) if I just used a jumper? Someday, i shall post a youtube clip and optimize it for audio quality. Should I ever get a break from school. And decent audio recording equipment.
Think that one over carefully.

You seems to have capatenence confused with resistance. There is no way a jumper could act like a cap. Maybe look into what makes a capacitor.

Without a sweep cap a ton of DC voltage would leak into the circuit also.

kabi82
10-16-2008, 04:18 AM
Greetings,

I'm new in the forum and thought i could use some help :)

Is anyone familiar with the stock inductor that comes with the Crybaby BB-535 wah? i browsed the internet but couldn't find anything on this one. It's black with a metallic frame placed on the top. I'm thinking of switching to either a Whipple or Red Fasel inductor, but if the stock one is decent and the results won't be noticable i wouldn't go for it...

Here's the PCB:

http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/1124/crybabybb535pcbqd6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Also, can anyone tell if this is modded to true-bypass? I bought it second hand and the previous owner was supposed to have it modded, but i can't figure out myself :)

WtrPlyr
10-16-2008, 06:29 AM
A new inductor would probably sound better. It's probably just the standard pot Dunlop uses, I replaced mine with the red one and I noticed a change. You can replace and if you don't like the result you can just put the old one back in.

For true-bypass you should get a pic of the switch, but I think it's true-bypass because there are some wires going to the pcb and there's one on the jack.

Whole Lotta Led
10-16-2008, 06:38 AM
That's not a stock Dunlop inductor. It's the same inductor kit the guy that makes the Whipple uses, though he writes "The Whipple" on his and some are fully painted. There's a guy in the UK that's also popular with that inductor kit, Stuart Castledine, might be his. Or a custom one all together, ask the guy you got it from...

kabi82
10-16-2008, 06:48 AM
A new inductor would probably sound better. It's probably just the standard pot Dunlop uses, I replaced mine with the red one and I noticed a change. You can replace and if you don't like the result you can just put the old one back in.

For true-bypass you should get a pic of the switch, but I think it's true-bypass because there are some wires going to the pcb and there's one on the jack.

Yeah, that's what i thought in the first place, thanks :). It's just that i read somewhere that some newer dunlop inductors have almost the same specs with the red fasel, so the difference in sound will be pretty minimal.

kabi82
10-16-2008, 06:57 AM
That's not a stock Dunlop inductor. It's the same inductor kit the guy that makes the Whipple uses, though he writes "The Whipple" on his and some are fully painted. There's a guy in the UK that's also popular with that inductor kit, Stuart Castledine, might be his. Or a custom one all together, ask the guy you got it from...

This might be probably why i couldn't any info on the net about this type of conductor. It's not at this list below, which got me a little concerned:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.castledine/greenfuz/inductor.html

It's a long shot to ask the guy that sold it to me, as he used a medium to make the sell...i'll give it a shot though

kabi82
10-16-2008, 09:05 AM
After researching a bit, i do believe now that this is indeed a Halo replica inductor of some kind. So basically several months ago i got the exact wah i wanted and it was pre-modded with a new inductor and true by-pass as well.

Lucky me :)

kurtlives91
10-16-2008, 03:15 PM
^Yep it's a Halo. Nice inductor.

Bentheemo
10-16-2008, 06:45 PM
Any recommended mods for a Vox 847a? I've never dabbled in electronics really, and was just wondering if there was anything that could improve its sweep, tone, and etc. Thanks in advance

Invader Jim
10-16-2008, 09:11 PM
First page.

imgod22222
10-17-2008, 04:36 AM
Thanks Kurt. I don't know much about DC voltage leakage, but I was thinking a jumper = 0uF of capacitance. Will look into what makes a cap.

And I think I'm getting confused. I thought changing the sweep cap's value [I]shifted the sweep range instead of widening it, as SHRED. is suggesting. I have a terrible ear for sound, as I'm told, so I want others' views.

Invader Jim
10-17-2008, 12:30 PM
The sweep cap does shift the range, not widen it. You are right.

imgod22222
10-18-2008, 11:51 AM
i love being right. =]
*wasn't feeding my ego, but satisfying, nonetheless*
hahaha.
So I guess I'm going to go for a very, very small pF cap to see if that makes my guitar sound brighter.

I'm guessing the "Q" mod would also change how my high ends sound, right?
I bought a rotary + 100k POT awhile ago so I could have 3 definite values, then a POT to make it sound terrible, but the 100k pot has a very abrupt difference between 0ohms and 38k ohms. Perhaps I should look into a multi-turn POT...

Oh yeah. Wanted to mention. Wierd observation.
In the stinkfoot page on the first post, where I should have a 33k ohm resistor, I put it up to my multimeter and I got 15ohms. I don't think it was kohms. Ideas?

Invader Jim
10-18-2008, 03:19 PM
If the resistor was still in-circuit, the reading was screwed with by the rest of the circuit. Always remove the component under test from the circuit to get a stable, accurate reading.

The Q mod just makes it more vocal, from "Wah" to "Woh". I wouldn't recomend a pot for it. So far I have only found 4 sweet spots: 33k, 58k, 68k, and 100k. According to kurtlives91, anything beyond 100k will sound no different than 100k.

As for the cap: I never could remember the good values to try.

imgod22222
10-19-2008, 04:47 PM
Yeah, but a good POT makes it fun to experiment with.
However, all these "sweet spots" are great info to have. =]

Since my rotary switch has 9 different selections, I intend to fill them with all the retarded sounds I can get.

An observation: I took my wah to my friend's house--he has a 6-string bass--we both preferred the stock guitar value cap over the bass wah value. The stock guitar cap made the wah effect much more pronounced. The bass wah just made swells and was much more subtle.

On a completely unrelated note: We decided having a distorted bass sounds like utter shit, and is reserved for bands who are trying too hard.

I wish the crybaby shell was just a little bit bigger. Trying to find enough room for these mods is tough. I think this is the first time I raise a soldering iron with the intent to make the result LOOK nice, and not just perform nicely. Frustration late at night (the only time I can find to solder) sucks. =\

If the resistor was still in-circuit, the reading was screwed with by the rest of the circuit.
Why didn't I think about that?! Man I'm dumb.

And, I wanted to take the time to say: Invader Jim, you're the best friend I've never met. =]

b2spirita
10-19-2008, 05:08 PM
Well i posted this in the pedal building thread but i will probably get a better response here. Does anyone know were i can find wah shells/cases in the uk? Im looking to build a kit but i need a case. The BYOC one is silly money. Thanks in advance