The Wah Modding Thread! Crybaby, Vox, etc.


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T-HO
06-19-2010, 08:43 PM
would this work
2,2 Pole 5 Position PANEL PCB 5 WAY ROTARY SWITCH 2P5T

blandguitar
06-19-2010, 08:46 PM
Yeah, that would work, you might wanna find something with less throws, that's a 2 pole 5 throw switch. That one looks like it has the poles and throws nicely separated, should be easy to use. The pole will be the solder leg towards the center, and the throws are on the outer edge.

T-HO
06-19-2010, 08:49 PM
This better
2,1 Pole 8 Position PANEL Wiring DIY ROTARY SWITCH 1P8T

T-HO
06-19-2010, 08:53 PM
if the first switch i showed was only a 5t, how come it has 10 outer legs?

blandguitar
06-19-2010, 08:55 PM
8 position means it has 8 throws. Although, you could use wires to make it so every other one selects between the two, or whatever combination you'd like. You might be better off with a 4P3T switch, you'll just waste 3/4s of the switch.

T-HO
06-19-2010, 09:02 PM
so why does a 2p5t switch have 10 throws asuming throws are outer legs

T-HO
06-19-2010, 09:04 PM
ok quick help my keyboard is not allowing me to use question marks just its the red half of the key how do i put it back to normal

blandguitar
06-19-2010, 09:08 PM
There are 5 throws and 2 poles. Each pole can be considered its own switch, the two work at the same time. and I have no idea, typically ctrl and alt are the types of things that screw that up.

T-HO
06-19-2010, 09:13 PM
?????? yay fixed it!!!

T-HO
06-19-2010, 09:14 PM
ohh so each 2 of the outer legs make a throw

T-HO
06-19-2010, 09:16 PM
how do you know which ones are pairs?

T-HO
06-19-2010, 09:20 PM
They are solder pads where the original inductor was.

How about this.
What's the grey thing?

T-HO
06-19-2010, 09:27 PM
is that the stock inductor?

T-HO
06-19-2010, 09:29 PM
can you explain the diagram? Wheere do I put the inductors on the pcb? I just need for you to go into detail.

T-HO
06-19-2010, 09:32 PM
what kind of switch do I use now? Are they all seperate like up would be yellow, middle red and down stock?

blandguitar
06-19-2010, 09:35 PM
You'd have to find a way to mount the Inductor yourself, hot glue and separate perf board are both excellent ideas. The gray block most likely represents the red inductor (or stock) inductor.

And for the rotary switches, by using an ohm meter you can quickly find which throw belongs to which pole for each position of the switch. The minimum resistance (under ten ohms) will mean a connection, whereas a near infinite, or infinite, number of ohms means that that throw is not connected to that pole in that particular position.

edit: you can use a Sp3t toggle and save room as well as make wiring much simpler. I think the cheapest I've seen one is about 9 bucks from mouser iirc.

Griffin Effects
06-19-2010, 09:57 PM
I sent it Griffin.


Weird. There is nothing in my PM inbox. Am I looking in the right place. There is a link that says Private Messages: 0 Unread, Total 0 in the upper right corner of this thread.

T-HO
06-19-2010, 09:58 PM
what would go on the pcb board? a wire from each? can you get griffin to respond? he probaly knows more than us.

grif can you help with the diagram?

Griffin Effects
06-19-2010, 10:07 PM
how do you know which ones are pairs?

Look at the attachement. One set of pads is yellow the other pink.

What's the grey thing?

It is a very poor representation of the stock inductor. :)

can you explain the diagram? Wheere do I put the inductors on the pcb? I just need for you to go into detail.

It's exactly as it was on the board but just with the inductors on the switch itself. Sometimes there isn't room for two inductors on the board.

what kind of switch do I use now? Are they all seperate like up would be yellow, middle red and down stock?.

It's the same On-On switch. The only difference is the inductors are on the switch instead of the board. If you take a look at the illustration and visualize the inductors on the other ends of the wires, it's exactly the same as the first illustration. I was just trying to give you an option which might make mounting them a little easier.

Griffin Effects
06-19-2010, 10:10 PM
I'm not sure what else you need. Wire it up either way I showed you in the illustrations. In the second illustration, one wire goes to the solder pad cluster I highlighted yellow and the other wire goes to the solder pad cluster I highlighted pink.

T-HO
06-19-2010, 10:13 PM
does it select all three or are some on at the same time?

T-HO
06-19-2010, 10:15 PM
does it matter with socket i choose in each of the clusters?

Griffin Effects
06-19-2010, 10:18 PM
does it select all three or are some on at the same time?
All three what?
There are only two inductors. Oh wait! I think I see what you are saying.
My two illustrations are not to wire up more than two inductors. See the arrow that says to remove the inductor on the board?
They both are to wire up two. I was just giving you two options:
The first illustrations shows how to wire them up on the board.
The second shows how to wire them up on the switch.
You wouldn't do both. You need to pick one. I just drew (or attempted to!) draw as stock inductor instead of two fasels on the second illustration.

does it matter with socket i choose in each of the clusters?

No. The pads in each cluster are all connected so it doesn't matter.

T-HO
06-19-2010, 10:32 PM
heres what i got from it
i solder a leg from each inducter on to seperate legs on the switch
i.e yellow goes to 1, red goes to 2, stock goes to three
i then attach a piece of wire to each of the remaining legs and then solder all three together.
I'm confused about the rest*sketched a diagram

T-HO
06-19-2010, 10:39 PM
just read your reply. got confused cause i was talking about 3 inductors with bg. thanks so much for your guyses help!!! It means alot to me that there are still people out there that help you for hours and hours!!!!! You guys are awesome and no doubt i'll be back within a week trying to make my dream mods come true!!!
Thanks so much again,
T-HO

Griffin Effects
06-19-2010, 10:43 PM
Ok. This is the best I can explain it without coming to your house to show you in person. :D

I'm giving you two options on how to do it because sometimes there isn't room for two inductors on the board. Option 1 has the inductors on the switch. Option 2 has the inductors on the board. Pick one. They both work exactly the same way.

In Option 2, you would put the inductors on the component side of the board. I just illustrated them on the trace side so you can see the pads and I don't have a picture of a board with the stock inductor removed so I didn't want to confuse things with a third inductor in the picture.

Invader Jim
06-20-2010, 01:10 AM
griffin, in responce to the question about PMs, click the Profile link at the very top right corner of the page.

Griffin Effects
06-20-2010, 01:14 AM
griffin, in responce to the question about PMs, click the Profile link at the very top right corner of the page.

Thanks. I just figured it out a few minutes ago and have been answering the PM's that have been sitting in there.

I figured I would PM blandguitar and maybe he could PM me back and it took me to the PMing in the Profile. I didn't know that existed.

So blandguitar I got your PM's and answered them.

Thanks again IJ!

Invader Jim
06-20-2010, 01:18 AM
no problem man :cheers:

T-HO
06-20-2010, 02:16 PM
When wiring a pot to where a resistor use to be, does it matter which order I put the two wires coming from the pot to the resistor socket other than 1 wire is connected to the middle leg of the pot and the other is connected to 1 of the outer legs of the pot?

Griffin Effects
06-20-2010, 03:04 PM
As long as you have one wire in the middle and one on one of the outer lugs, it will work. If the control seems to work backwards for you, you take the wire on the outer lug and put it on the other outer lug and that will reverse the way the control works.

moominman2
06-20-2010, 03:40 PM
Put a 1M resistor from the input to ground.

Do I have to wire it in a certain way? Or could I just connect the resistor from the input and use a wire to ground?

thanks

Invader Jim
06-20-2010, 04:53 PM
strap the resistor across the tip and sleeve lugs of the jack, mounting it directly to the jack. that's what i do.

T-HO
06-20-2010, 06:38 PM
If I wanted to have three inductors is this what it would look like?

Invader Jim
06-20-2010, 07:18 PM
exactly.

kaneorsomething
06-20-2010, 08:08 PM
Any ideas on adding some gain to my V847?

Invader Jim
06-20-2010, 08:49 PM
lower the value of the resistor on the emitter of Q1.

machin05
06-21-2010, 09:00 AM
Hi,
I have a Vox V847a (the on with the dc input). I have purchased a 3PDT footswitch in order to do the true bypass mod. However all the instructions I can find are for the Vox V847 and not the newer V847A.

I think I've worked it out, please can you check this diagram and let me know if there's anything else I need to do. I've also attached an image of the inside of the pedal. Hope that helps.

http://zeligmusic.co.uk/files/v847a_mod.jpg

http://img364.imageshack.us/img364/2540/tnp1000068wz4.jpg

The green "effect send" wire is currently connected to the input jack socket and will need to be extended up to the 3PDT switch.

I now also have the option of installing an LED, correct?

Does this look ok to you guys?

forsaknazrael
06-21-2010, 09:24 AM
You've got your switch wrong.
Color codes...
http://www.stinkfoot.se/andreas/diy/mods/voxnew.htm
And the diagram is here, in case you don't see the link on that other one...http://www.stinkfoot.se/andreas/diy/mods/dunlop.htm

Now you'll have a free row for an LED.

machin05
06-21-2010, 09:54 AM
You've got your switch wrong.
Color codes...
http://www.stinkfoot.se/andreas/diy/mods/voxnew.htm
And the diagram is here, in case you don't see the link on that other one...http://www.stinkfoot.se/andreas/diy/mods/dunlop.htm

Now you'll have a free row for an LED.

Cheers for the links. I'd found that page, and had used the info to try and decifer the correct lugs. From that page I got this info:

Brown: main input
White: main output
Green: effect send/circuit input
Blue: effect return/circuit output
Black (or whatever colour your ground wire is): ground

Is that what's not reflected in the above diagram on the key?

I used a generic wiring diagram for the 3pdt switch. Is this not right?

forsaknazrael
06-21-2010, 10:09 AM
oh, i see what you're doing, now. too early, i guess, here in the US. it was about...630 when I initially posted. :bonk:

use that empty lug for the LED.

machin05
06-21-2010, 10:24 AM
oh, i see what you're doing, now. too early, i guess, here in the US. it was about...630 when I initially posted. :bonk:

use that empty lug for the LED.

Ha, cool, no worries. 630am?? That's bordering on UG addiction!!

So that wiring diagram looks ok yeah?

I may add the LED at a later stage, but for now just getting the true bypass is what I'm looking to achieve.

moominman2
06-21-2010, 10:52 AM
sorry to change the subject,

but I wanted to eliminate the popping noise when I turned my wah on.

I went out to buy a 1m resistor but was told they only had 0.6...Is that still ok? The colors are red blue blue gold red

thanks

forsaknazrael
06-21-2010, 11:16 AM
1M barely affects tone, that's why you use it.
Try wiring it like on the stinkfoot site for input grounded wiring.

I've never had a popping prob with my wah. Sure it's coming through your amp? Wahs tend to have a loud pop when you turn em on, but not necessarily in the amp.

Machin5: haha, I'm just an early riser. :p:

moominman2
06-21-2010, 11:23 AM
yeah man its not the amp...

but is that resistor ok to use to stick it into my wah?
thanks

forsaknazrael
06-21-2010, 11:33 AM
I wouldn't. You may notice a frequency response change.

I'm saying, is the sound actually being amplified? Or is it just loud? Again, I've never had a problem with a wah popping.

moominman2
06-21-2010, 11:38 AM
ahhh damn ok cheers anyway...

it seems to happen when I turn it on and the volume on the amp is high

Invader Jim
06-21-2010, 11:51 AM
grounded-input true bypass eliminates any popping by grounding the effect input when bypassed. try that out.

moominman2
06-21-2010, 11:53 AM
aye aye aye?

what do you mean? Im not very savvy on this sort of thing

Invader Jim
06-21-2010, 12:04 PM
I cant post the actual pic because all those boutiqe pedal buiders like him are twats and copyright every-fucking-thing.

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/ulysses/ulysses_wiring_diagrams/ulysses_grounded_input_veri.jpg.html

moominman2
06-21-2010, 12:11 PM
thanks man...

I thought I already did that though when making it true bypass? I'll take a look, I'm probobly wrong haha

cheers

blandguitar
06-21-2010, 03:56 PM
True bypass eliminates tonal coloring when the effect isn't meant to be on. Grounded input reduces popping noises when switching.

forsaknazrael
06-21-2010, 06:06 PM
It's really more for high gain circuits, sometimes the signal leaks through in them when not grounded.

T-HO
06-22-2010, 12:46 AM
I was wondering how to do a "proper" adjustable q mod. I was looking at the crybaby from hell schematic and it said for the q there is a 1k pot im guessing in series with the inductor, sorta like the fine tune with the pot. How would I wire(q mod) it up on a gcb-95 circuit board? Here is the link to the schematic:

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WAH-ARCHIVE_/WAH-SCHEMATICS/Dunlop_Dimebag_wah.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1

forsaknazrael
06-22-2010, 01:51 AM
Replace the 0 ohm resistor that's on most GCB95 boards.

That method of a variable "Q" will affect both sweep and "WAH"/"WOH" voicing, but only a tiny bit.

T-HO
06-22-2010, 10:36 AM
So the resistors value is zero?

T-HO
06-22-2010, 10:38 AM
I actually have a jh-1b wah pedal. Is it on there too? I know the circuits are near identical but just want to make sure. Wherre is the resistor placed on a gcb-95?

T-HO
06-22-2010, 10:43 AM
Nevermind I found it. Resistor with 1 black line. Thanks!

T-HO
06-22-2010, 10:49 AM
Would I wire a trim pot the same way I wire a pot? Can I break off one of the legs of the trimmer if I only need 2? Will this effect the trim pot?

forsaknazrael
06-22-2010, 11:01 AM
Nevermind I found it. Resistor with 1 black line. Thanks!
Yup, that was it. :D

And just tie two of the legs to together, to use it like you would a pot, for a variable resistor operation.

T-HO
06-22-2010, 11:13 AM
i thought it was already a pott?

T-HO
06-22-2010, 11:23 AM
Wow I'm really pissed! I pre-drilled holes so when I get the parts in I put tem in place. I did a really horrible job. Theres about 8 hole for 5 pots, they are all off. I just now figured out that I was using the wrong drill bit! Damn it!!!! Now it looks horrible, had to cut pieces off the pcb! Is there any way I can fix this like putting metal back into the holes and redrilling?

forsaknazrael
06-22-2010, 11:28 AM
Well, I'm sure you can use filler, I don't know about redrilling.

What size did you use?

And yes, it is a pot, but I assumed you has wired a pot by tying two of its legs together before.

Griffin Effects
06-22-2010, 11:32 AM
I've filled holes before by taping something somewhat fireproof (I use scraps of copper board but a piece of metal would work) to one side and then use a torch to heat up the enclosure and fill the hole with a bunch of solder. Sand it down and you'd never know it was there after I paint it.

T-HO
06-22-2010, 11:35 AM
can you drill it after?

T-HO
06-22-2010, 11:37 AM
oh and i used size 9/32".

Griffin Effects
06-22-2010, 11:40 AM
Absolutely. It fuses together really well

Make sure you tape the fireproof material on the inside of the enclosure and fill the hole so it bubbles up out of the hole. File or sand the extra off of the outside of the enclosure. You will see when you pull the fireproof material off the inside that there will be a little bubble/indent. That's why you want to put the fireproof material on the inside. If you do it the other way, filling that indent is a pain.

A rule I have is - "Never drill before you know it works"

You can always hook up a pot before drilling to see if it works the way you want it to.

forsaknazrael
06-22-2010, 11:41 AM
So what, are the holes too small? If so, just drill again. :p:

T-HO
06-22-2010, 11:43 AM
why am i heating it up ith a torch? can't i just use a soldering iron?

T-HO
06-22-2010, 11:44 AM
how would I paint the italian crinkle finish?

forsaknazrael
06-22-2010, 11:47 AM
so again, in what way do they not fit?
Aren't pot shafts like...1/4"? So you need to drill something slightly larger?

Also, please try and edit your posts instead of multi-posting. :)

Griffin Effects
06-22-2010, 11:48 AM
why am i heating it up ith a torch? can't i just use a soldering iron?


You'll never get it hot enough with just a soldering iron. I've tried. It doesn't work at all. It just makes a mess. A soldering iron may work for a really small hole like for a 3mm LED but bigger holes need a torch of some kind.

T-HO
06-22-2010, 11:54 AM
no the holes are offset, looks horrible. then it looks like stairs comming out of it cause it was the wrong type of bit. i wish i would have just waited.

T-HO
06-22-2010, 11:57 AM
So I'm heating the solder with a torch correct?

Griffin Effects
06-22-2010, 12:01 PM
So I'm heating the solder with a torch correct?

You have to heat up the enclosure around the hole also or the solder won't stick to it. It's just like soldering, just on a larger scale.

Heat up the hole/enclosure with the torch. With the torch still on the hole, fill it with solder until it overflows. Let it cool. File/sand it flat.

T-HO
06-22-2010, 12:02 PM
how long should i heat it for? is the paint going to come off around it?

ianisthewalrus
06-22-2010, 04:02 PM
ianisthewalrus: clips?

i cant seem to hook my amp up to my computer in a way that doesnt result in about 1/2 the sound being noise. perhaps im doing something wrong...

i normally play acoustic, and i use wavelab with asio4all so i have low latency monitoring, and just run a set of headphones as the mic. hahhah.

i have a plug that steps down 1/4'' to normal 3.5mm, and i plugged the line from the headphone output of the amp into the mic input of the computer. its very quiet and mostly noise. tone suffers greatly as well...

any ideas? how do you guys do this?

Invader Jim
06-22-2010, 04:10 PM
T-HO: you need to start using the Edit button. It's in the bottom right corner of the post.

forsaknazrael
06-22-2010, 04:54 PM
I dunno, I have a handheld recorder, or use my iPhone to record stuff.

moominman2
06-23-2010, 09:45 AM
I just put in a 1m resistor with no difference...I then removed the LED and again...nothing!! :(

Why the popping???

Its also doing it through both my amps

PapaSchumpf
06-23-2010, 10:13 AM
hey guys,
i just made some resistor mods and now im wondering how long i have to wait before i can use it?

blandguitar
06-23-2010, 10:35 AM
It's not like glueing up wood, you can use it right away. I usually test after 2 to 4 mods each to make sure nothing got screwed up.

edit moominman, did you try the grounded input TB? I haven't had an issue with popping since using it.

Griffin Effects
06-23-2010, 10:41 AM
I just put in a 1m resistor with no difference...I then removed the LED and again...nothing!! :(

Why the popping???

Its also doing it through both my amps

Popping is usually DC on the switch. How did you wire it up? What diagram did you use? Double and triple check your wiring. Don't just assume it's correct.

You can also get popping in your wah from a bad cap in another pedal. Try the wah to your amp without any other pedals to see if you get popping.

moominman2
06-24-2010, 03:09 AM
I used stinkfoot for the true bypass/ LED and wah-wah.co.uk for the pcb board.

I'll double check everything :\

Griffin Effects
06-24-2010, 05:30 PM
Well both those sources have very well documented successful modifications so I think there is something wired wrong in your pedal or you may have an external issue with another pedal like I mentioned earlier.

ianisthewalrus
06-28-2010, 03:16 PM
question:

when i run my wah using the dirty channel on my amp, the distortion is very very crunchy. is there any way to control this? i.e. make it smoother?

Griffin Effects
06-28-2010, 03:25 PM
question:

when i run my wah using the dirty channel on my amp, the distortion is very very crunchy. is there any way to control this? i.e. make it smoother?

Like there is too much treble? Are you running the wah through the front of your amp or an FX loop?

T-HO
06-28-2010, 07:51 PM
dear griffin,
remember a while back i asked you how to wire up a switch to go from a fixed resistor to a pot and said i just need a spdt switch. I was looking online for a push-button one so i can just kick it on and off and found there very many and none will fit my wah. Are there any alternative switches like a dpdt and spst? to be precise can i use a spst switch to swap between the 2? and if you can explain how to wire it? thanks!
T-HO

forsaknazrael
06-28-2010, 08:47 PM
Kick it on? How would you kick it on? Where would you put the switch?

T-HO
06-28-2010, 08:54 PM
like you know the crybabys that come with a kick-in boost...like that and it will aprox. where they are on the real crybabys(near the rear feet). It would just be a push-on push off switch and you press it with your foot.

P.s. i've done to mods now. adjuustable q with a 100k pot and the volume mod with the 68k resistor and put a 100k pot there(theres where i ne3ed the switch, to turn the boost on and off). I will also be doing the "proper q" mod, adjustable mid range mod, fine tune mod, adjustable gain/bass mod and 3 position inductor switch to swap between the red, yellow and stock inductors. And of course true bypass.

forsaknazrael
06-28-2010, 08:58 PM
Yeah, I dunno, IMO, I can't see this being something I'd switch mid song, personally. Then i'd be concerned with accidentally hitting the switch.

Invader Jim has a switch in his heel, though, FWIW. :shrug:

Griffin Effects
06-28-2010, 09:39 PM
If you want a pushbutton switch, you're going to have to do a little internet searching.
Make sure it's NOT momentary and it is going to have to be easy to push. The ones used for bypassing effects are way to hard.

Something like these:
http://www.wellgainelectronics.com/ProductImages/ics/C&K%208168%20PUSHBUTTON%20SWITCH%20MOMENTARY%20SPDT.jpg

or

http://www.binbin.net/photos/generic/rou/round-locking-push-switch-pushlock-spco-switch-.jpg

You won't be able to use a spst but you can use a dpdt or 3pdt and just use one set of lugs.

edit: I take it back. You might be able to use an SPDT to switch out either the pot or the resistor but they would have to be in parallel or something. I'm super tired right now. I'd have to draw it up to verify this. I can't picture it in my head right now.

T-HO
06-28-2010, 10:10 PM
that's fine. whenever you have the time. i'll always apreciate any effort to help me any others.
Thanks!

ianisthewalrus
06-28-2010, 11:55 PM
Like there is too much treble? Are you running the wah through the front of your amp or an FX loop?
nope its just guitar->wah->amp, and amp set to overdrive. if i switch the wah off, i can get a nice smooth distortion. when i turn the wah on, i get a very crunchy distortion. the crunch is changed by the pedal as it wahs as well. its ok, but it is WAY too much crunch. am i doing something wrong?

dannyyy
06-29-2010, 02:56 PM
I think the first post in this thread needs to be updated with some informative links - most of the links are broken in the first post.

Invader Jim
06-29-2010, 02:58 PM
^We're working on a new Wah Modding thread.

Griffin Effects
06-29-2010, 03:02 PM
nope its just guitar->wah->amp, and amp set to overdrive. if i switch the wah off, i can get a nice smooth distortion. when i turn the wah on, i get a very crunchy distortion. the crunch is changed by the pedal as it wahs as well. its ok, but it is WAY too much crunch. am i doing something wrong?

Can you describe "crunch" other than using crunch? Too much treble, mids, too much wah effect?

A new thread would be great. 300+ pages to sift through is exhausting and I doubt anyone would ever do it so there is probably tons of duplicate questions.

It would be kind of nice if the first post of the new thread could have links to posts in the thread that were useful and kept up-to-date. Don't know if that's possible.

Invader Jim
06-29-2010, 03:08 PM
yep, that's the plan. all the links and info you could ever want plus some stuff on how wahs actually work.

and noobs will still neglect to read any of it and selfishly demand answers to their pre-answered questions just like with all ultimate threads.

Griffin Effects
06-29-2010, 03:19 PM
yep, that's the plan. all the links and info you could ever want plus some stuff on how wahs actually work.

and noobs will still neglect to read any of it and selfishly demand answers to their pre-answered questions just like with all ultimate threads.

That sounds great.

There is no way of getting around that though. I don't think the kids these days read like us old folks do. Cursed video games! :bonk: I blame everything on video games these days.

T-HO: Here is the illustration on how to use an SPST. The resistor is on the board and the pot/switch is wired in parallel. Now that the resistor/pot are in parallel, you'll have to adjust values a little. (1/R) = (1/R1)+(1/R2)
Probably not the best way to do it but it should work fine with the right values.

dannyyy
06-29-2010, 03:25 PM
Cool that sounds great :) For now though, I will read through the 343 pages. :bonk:

edit:


found a link that says

"Easy" range adjustment: Takes some of the shrill highs out of a Dunlop Crybaby. This one requires no soldering skills at all, and I regularly do it to many of the wahs I service. To lower/raise the working range slightly, set the wah on a table, face down with the battery end towards your gut, and press the pedal down to the stop. Remove the bottom plate and locate the toothed bar that turns the pot axle. Move the treadle up/down a few times, to familiarize yourself with which way the pot turns as you press the treadle down towards the toe end. With a phillips-head screwdriver, remove (or just loosen it enough to turn it sideways) the white plastic flange that presses the toothed bar against the pot axle gears, and release the bar. Now you can manually turn the pot one or two notches back. Viewed from the battery end, you turn the pot towards you (it's clockwise, if you view the pot assembly from the left). There is room to safely adjust it two notches or so before the pot runs out of play.

Does this make the pedal less sensitive, so you can move through the range easier? like less from high-to-low straight away and missing out the middle sound, if you get me?

Invader Jim
06-29-2010, 03:29 PM
this is probably going to confuse you but an easier formula (though a little more work) is the product-over-sum version.

Rtotal = (R1*R2) / (R1+R2)

It only works for 2 resistors at a time so you'll have to scale it down each time but it's easier to type into a calc than that crazy one-over-one-over formula.

Griffin Effects
06-29-2010, 03:41 PM
this is probably going to confuse you but an easier formula (though a little more work) is the product-over-sum version.

Rtotal = (R1*R2) / (R1+R2)

It only works for 2 resistors at a time so you'll have to scale it down each time but it's easier to type into a calc than that crazy one-over-one-over formula.

Honestly, I think either are going to confuse him. I await for the, "what values should I use" post. :D

T-HO
06-29-2010, 05:17 PM
By adjusting values do you mean of the other resistors on the board(other than the 68k one)?uhmm*cough*what values should I use(keep the stock resistor and use a 100k pot?).*cough :p: :D :confused:

ohh and danny it's just moving the stick gear to slightly change how the wah sweeps the pot.

edit: i've been wondering if there was any way for my wah to really cut through the mix? I noticed that the wah really goes away on the 12th-24th frets on the high e. I want to get a really prounonced wah sound, like when you play with it on the 5-7 frets.

Griffin Effects
06-29-2010, 05:29 PM
By adjusting values do you mean of the other resistors on the board(other than the 68k one)?uhmm*cough*what values should I use(keep the stock resistor and use a 100k pot?).*cough :p: :D :confused:

No. I mean you will have to adjust the value of the pot and resistor we are dealing with. Not any others. With the spst, the pot will be switched in the circuit in parallel with the resistor.
Basically, when you switch it this way, the overall resistance is going to be divided in half of the sum of the resistor and the pot so you will have to figure out what value pot and resistor to use to get the value you need.

T-HO
06-29-2010, 05:38 PM
i'll just go with a spdt switch. found a couple for a good price,perfect for what i need it for.
see my edit.

Griffin Effects
06-29-2010, 05:47 PM
i'll just go with a spdt switch. found a couple for a good price,perfect for what i need it for.
see my edit.

Good call. It's a lot easier that way.

T-HO
06-29-2010, 05:50 PM
any help with the edit in my [post?

forsaknazrael
06-29-2010, 08:19 PM
The higher notes on the high strings are basilly all treble. What can a wah do with a treble signal? Not much...

T-HO
06-29-2010, 09:08 PM
you know the sweep capacitor(it's 0.022uf for me)if I make that a lower value will that make it more prounounced on the really high notes? The kh-95 can handle the high notes really well, did they lower the value here?

forsaknazrael
06-29-2010, 09:23 PM
Probably messed more with the wah pot's rotation index more. I can't imagine getting bigger than .022uF.

T-HO
06-29-2010, 09:38 PM
by lowering the capacitor it makes the range go higher i.e. a 0.01uf has a higher range than a 0.022uf. how do i mess with the rotation index? I'm getting a yellow fasel in soon, is this gonna make it have a higher range? I just want to know how to make the wah really come through, to make it really dominate the guitar signal.

to make myself more clear, I want it to sound like I'm playing a wah pedal, not a guitar.

and also, has anyone figured out how to get that only mid range sweep wah tom morello has? I would really like to mod a wah to make it sound like his.

forsaknazrael
06-29-2010, 10:52 PM
Morello uses his wah in his FX loop, I think. :wtf:

I know what the sweep cap does, just don't think that's the answer here.
To reindex your pot, open it up and change which teeth the pot is sitting on a bit. You'll see what I mean.

T-HO
06-30-2010, 01:00 AM
i know what it is you are talking about. i do it once a month just in case the teeth slip. griffin do you have any input?

Invader Jim
06-30-2010, 01:36 AM
sweep cap isnt the answer here, and as long as the screw on the white plastic thing is tight the teeth will never slip...if they slip you'd feel it...

T-HO
06-30-2010, 01:39 AM
then what is the answer? i've tried to figure it out but god im only 14.

Invader Jim
06-30-2010, 01:47 AM
you mean the fact that the wah is too subtle with distortion?

put it after the distorton instead of before it. since you distortion is the amp, this isnt possible unless you have n fx loop.

T-HO
06-30-2010, 02:10 AM
i don't have a loop. oh well. i'll just make the range go a little higher(15uf or a 6.8uf if i could i would add a 6-way sweep seletor, just no more room left). haha maybe i could just drill a hole in the front of the wah. :)

forsaknazrael
06-30-2010, 02:15 AM
.068 is bass guitar territory. :confus:

T-HO
06-30-2010, 02:52 AM
sorry meant to say nf. I was looking at a schematic for a crybaby and was wondering if the 470ohm resistor controls gain/bass and the 4.7uf capacitor if removed makes a volume pedal, what is the 82k resistor in the middle responsible for? Thought i'd ask about it before i tweak it.heres a link:

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/WAH-ARCHIVE_/WAH-SCHEMATICS/jh1.gif.html

bottom between the 390ohm and the 4.7uf

T-HO
06-30-2010, 03:27 AM
how come every single mod that's on the internet is total different from the mods dunlop does to there wahs? q mod is different, fine tune is different and the adjustable sweep mods are different. wtf? how come there sweep range is different than ours? is it better their way?

forsaknazrael
06-30-2010, 03:48 AM
I dunno what it does, 82K isn't even a critical value, I see it as 100K in some designs.

What sweep mod are you talking about? Which Dunlop has a sweep mod?

Invader Jim
06-30-2010, 01:40 PM
Here's what R.G. Keene has to say about it.

[Q1] is biased into linear amplification by the voltage on its own collector which feeds current to the 470K resistor, some of which is shunted to ground by the 82K resistor. The rest of the current through the 470K goes to the base through the inductor and the 33K resistor which parallels it and the 1k5 ohm resistor leading to the base. The inductor's DC resistance is quite low compared to any of the other resistors (typically 40-75 ohms), so the base current is determined primarily by the 470K and 82K resistors and the 1k5 ohm resistor.

...

This is one form of the classical voltage feedback biasing arrangement, and the values are chosen to give a reasonable linear range of swing on the collector.

...

If we just guess that the collector is sitting at 4.5V, that gives a collector current of about 200uA, an emitter voltage of about 0.1V, and a voltage at the base of 0.6V roughly. The voltage across the 470K is then 4.5V - 0.6V or 3.9V, and the current through it is about 8uA. If the gain of the transistor is around 200, then Ib is 1uA, and the voltage across the 82K resistor is 0.6V for a current of about 7uA, an approximate match.

T-HO
07-01-2010, 10:48 AM
so if i lower the value the wah will get louder?

Griffin Effects
07-01-2010, 11:31 AM
If you want your wah more pronounced with distortion, you're going to have to put it after the distortion.

If you keep boosting the signal in different parts of the circuit, your going to start adding distortion to the effect.

Maybe think about an output buffer. The buffer will let you control the volume to some extent also.

The yellow fasel is a little dark for me but I do think it has a little more midrange. I like the red a little better. It's brighter. These days I roll my own though because I found the reissues really inconsistent. ;)

Sweep cap: Bass wah's use .068uf, Hendrix/Wylde use .022uf, Normal use .01uf.

Typically going towards the bass isn't going to make your wah more pronounced. It usually softens the effect. You're probably going to want to add more treble to make it stand out with your distortion.

The Crybaby from Hell values on it's rotary switch are:
8.2nf, 1.8nf, 3.9nf, 6.8nf, 15nf, and 27nf which are all in parallel with a 1.2nf

Might want to try some of the treble values from it.

forsaknazrael
07-01-2010, 11:49 AM
A louder wah? Lower in the input resistor to like 47K.

T-HO
07-01-2010, 08:40 PM
no i was just wondering what the 82k resistor is for. I actually think the yellow is way brighter. i've been comparing the two fasels in the dunlop mc-404 wah which has both. is that a real yellow fasel or a different kind of yellow. honestly i think you have two mixed up. yellow is way brighter than red. i'm probaly gonna get a 8.2nf or a 6.8nf capacitor instead of a 22nf. I think they just put that in to mimic a red fasel. opions for a good treble/ cut through the mix way tone(that you can hear really well through distortion put not have it through a loop)?

Griffin Effects
07-01-2010, 09:11 PM
no i was just wondering what the 82k resistor is for. I actually think the yellow is way brighter. i've been comparing the two fasels in the dunlop mc-404 wah which has both. is that a real yellow fasel or a different kind of yellow. honestly i think you have two mixed up. yellow is way brighter than red. i'm probaly gonna get a 8.2nf or a 6.8nf capacitor instead of a 22nf. I think they just put that in to mimic a red fasel. opions for a good treble/ cut through the mix way tone(that you can hear really well through distortion put not have it through a loop)?

I've been installing/replacing fasels for years (actually probably longer than you've been alive :o). The red has been consistently brighter and the yellow has a darker sound. I guess it's possible to have a circuit that reacts to the fasels different. I'm just basing this off the hundreds of Crybaby and Vox wahs I've repaired and modified over the years.

Throw a 100k or 500k trimmer in place of the 82k and see what it does!

Invader Jim
07-02-2010, 01:42 AM
i read somewhere that yellow fasels are way too low to be a "proper" inductor. they run about 320mH iirc. conversely, the stock dunlop ones (or at least the 90's ones) are way too high at 660mH so they sound muddy, usually.

any insight, griffin?

Griffin Effects
07-02-2010, 01:53 AM
i read somewhere that yellow fasels are way too low to be a "proper" inductor. they run about 320mH iirc. conversely, the stock dunlop ones (or at least the 90's ones) are way too high at 660mH so they sound muddy, usually.

any insight, griffin?

I bought a hundred of red and a hundred of yellow about a year ago. I measured almost all of them and they were all over the place. Neither color was consistent at all. They ranged from the low 300's to the high 600's in both colors. Very few were around 500mH. I think around 15 of the 75 reds were close to 500mH and around 20 of the yellows were close to 500mH. A LOT of the yellows were well below 500mH. I'd like to be able to get a hold of a bunch of stock inductors. I believe this inconsistency is why, when I buy a bunch of Crybaby's, they all sound a little different. I need to start measuring the stock inductors I pull from these. I have a box of them in the workshop. I should measure them next time I'm bored.

Invader Jim
07-02-2010, 01:57 AM
i need a way to measure inductors. :o:

the numbers i read were probably based on a single or handful of samples then.

T-HO
07-02-2010, 09:53 PM
ok. I guess that mc-404 has a totally different circuit. I just bought the red one so I can really test all three side by side. I just played a 535q today just to see how the capacitor sounds at different values. That had a red fasel in it. Sounded great with distortion. I think I'm going to go with a 2 way selector switch to go between 6.8nf and 15nf. Really like the high values but just in case I want a little vintage hendrix i'll have a 15nf.

T-HO
07-05-2010, 03:23 PM
Which pot should I buy? A pro pot, ICAR pot or keep my hot potz 2?

blandguitar
07-05-2010, 04:25 PM
Jim: guitarattack has something so you can measure inductance iirc. I used to have a link bookmarked, I'll see if I can't scrape it up.

T-HO, It's all a matter of taste, ICAR is a faux-audio taper, they used to be very cheap before log pots were commonly available. It's more correct if say, copying an older wah; but for a modern wah you might as well just buy an audio taper imo. although you can get a ICAR taper for about 16 bucks from SBE. If your hot potz works still with no scratching, I'd just keep it and play with the type later. It's the 2nd most expensive part of a wah, first is the shell.

Griffin Effects
07-05-2010, 04:32 PM
I'd keep the HP II.

Invader Jim
07-05-2010, 04:32 PM
i know how to measure inductance with a voltmeter and an AC voltage. however, in my experience inductance changes with voltage. it's not supposed to, but it does (at least in my measurement method). it also changes with frequency, so 60Hz isnt the best to use for an audio application.

i'll take the link anyway. i might learn smt new.

blandguitar
07-05-2010, 05:11 PM
Most inductance meters measure at 1k hz.

I can't seem to find an article on inductance. I must be misremembering.

Here's something about making a gauss meter.
http://www.guitarattack.com/winder/gauss.htm
http://www.coolmagnetman.com/magmeter.htm
I think you can measure the inductance from the magnetic field. I bought the meter from sbe that does inductance, it's like 65 bucks though. :sad:

Invader Jim
07-05-2010, 05:29 PM
i'll just save up for the meter. does it do capacitance as well? ever since I almost electrocuted myself with my tube capacohmeter i'm too afraid to plug it in.

blandguitar
07-05-2010, 05:40 PM
I just checked it, it does from 20nF to 200uF. What happened with your meter? How'd you get shocked with it?

ECistheBest
07-05-2010, 05:43 PM
i learned about how scary electricity is when i touched my blues jr's B+ lug.



and after that, I try my best to make my amplifiers modification safe. like, one side of the board is always at the same potential as ground. and the other side is the deadly side. :haha

Invader Jim
07-05-2010, 05:48 PM
i was taking voltage readings. got hit with about 400v (at least thats the lat thing i remember seeing on the meter display). i have never been that afraid before. if it hadnt fallen in the floor i'd have sat there and roasted. afterward my arms and chest were in so much pain, and i had a massive headache. the entry and exit fingers were numb for several minutes. i gathered my senses and took a couple of dad's flexoril and that knocked me out.

good times...

my meter goes down to 100pF or so but only goes to 10uF.

blandguitar
07-05-2010, 05:53 PM
Was it faulty or was it your mistake? If it was on you, you'd probably be alright considering you're scared of it now, which you should be. I'm gonna freak the **** out when I first start fixing my O'scope. Did you clip the - to the chassis with an alligator clip? That'd free up one hand.

Does it have a digital read or is it analog? I'm assuming analog.

ECistheBest, how odd is it to etch double sided board?

Invader Jim
07-05-2010, 05:59 PM
it's early 60s so yeah. it was my bad. i did clip the - lead to the chassis where applicable.

you better be damn careful with that scope. my cap meter has well over 1000v in it for the pulse test function. pretend yours has that much. for all we know, it does.

blandguitar
07-05-2010, 06:06 PM
I saw a cap or two with 1.2kV ratings. It very well may have 1000v in it. I intend on taking every precaution I can.

T-HO
07-05-2010, 07:16 PM
I'm gonna be doing the sweep capacitor mod. what is the correct/preferred/common capacitor type(mylar poly film etc..) for this mod? It's the sweep capacitor one.

Invader Jim
07-05-2010, 07:31 PM
any type will work... go with poly film...

Griffin Effects
07-05-2010, 08:11 PM
I'm gonna be doing the sweep capacitor mod. what is the correct/preferred/common capacitor type(mylar poly film etc..) for this mod? It's the sweep capacitor one.

Put a socket in there and try different ones and report back with your findings!

That way you'll be helping out future UGists. :)

T-HO
07-06-2010, 05:40 PM
found out the answer........mylar is just a brand name for poly film caps. exactly the same..tomatoes tomatoes!!!

Griffin Effects
07-06-2010, 05:56 PM
found out the answer........mylar is just a brand name for poly film caps. exactly the same..tomatoes tomatoes!!!

Actually, no. Mylar is the type of material the cap is made of. Some example of these are the gray caps in Boss pedals.

Honestly, you're probably not going to hear too much, if at all, difference between mylar and poly/film so either are going to be fine.

ianisthewalrus
07-07-2010, 09:27 AM
Can you describe "crunch" other than using crunch? Too much treble, mids, too much wah effect?


hahhah, ill do my best. i know it as a "crunch" effect. its what it is called. like you can buy crunch pedals if you like the sound. i will try to describe it... its like if you took the normal distortion, and subtracted part of the sound wave out of it regularly really quickly (like 50 times a second). its a sort of "metal" sound.

here is an example of a crunch pedal, but this guy controls it well for a bluesy sound.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbHmiB5Wans
its just a rougher distortion than normal.

my problem is the level of crunch also changes with the wah, so when i wah, the crunch moves through the lows into the mids and highs then back to the lows. so it just sounds like ass, hahhah.

if i turn down the tone a bit on the guitar it helps alot. perhaps it is more than the transistors can handle?

Griffin Effects
07-07-2010, 12:57 PM
hahhah, ill do my best. i know it as a "crunch" effect. its what it is called. like you can buy crunch pedals if you like the sound. i will try to describe it... its like if you took the normal distortion, and subtracted part of the sound wave out of it regularly really quickly (like 50 times a second). its a sort of "metal" sound.

here is an example of a crunch pedal, but this guy controls it well for a bluesy sound.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbHmiB5Wans
its just a rougher distortion than normal.

my problem is the level of crunch also changes with the wah, so when i wah, the crunch moves through the lows into the mids and highs then back to the lows. so it just sounds like ass, hahhah.

if i turn down the tone a bit on the guitar it helps alot. perhaps it is more than the transistors can handle?

Sorry. I know what crunch is. I meant is their any other way to describe what you are getting with your wah other than describing it as crunch. As in too much treble, too much mids, too much output, not enough bass, too much wah effect, etc.

Have you tried rolling the pot gear manually towards bass by removing the linear gear from the pot gear and adjusting it? This will get it off the treble end and towards the more mellow bass end.

I'm guessing it's either your amp or a problem with the interaction between your wah and your amp. Not just the pedal. You typically get a more aggressive wah sound, which can sound overloaded depending on your distortion pedal, if you put the distortion BEFORE the wah. I forgot, what wah do you have? I'm guessing if it doesn't have an output buffer, that may help. Plus it will give you control over the volume of the wah.

Invader Jim
07-07-2010, 01:02 PM
i dont remember where you said the wah is, but put it after the distortion if it is before it.

a wah'd distortion sounds very different than a distorted wah.

Griffin Effects
07-07-2010, 01:05 PM
i dont remember where you said the wah is, but put it after the distortion if it is before it.

a wah'd distortion sounds very different than a distorted wah.

If I remember correctly, he's using his amps distortion.

Invader Jim
07-07-2010, 01:09 PM
well then we're in a bit of a predicament.

honesly i think that's the only problem. wah->distortion usually sounds pretty crap and does funky things depending on the distortion. distortion->wah seems to always clear up the problems of the former.

T-HO
07-10-2010, 03:08 AM
Griffin, whats the input resistor and where is it located? Is it the 500ohm or 68k resistor? It sounded like before that you were talking about a different resistor.

And also I've made a list of every mod out there including some I've tuned for myself. If anyone wants it I can post it.

Invader Jim
07-10-2010, 09:12 AM
go ahead and post it. i might use it in the new wah thread.

the input resistor is the 68k in series with the input jack (if the wah is buffered then it is coming off the emmiter of the MPSA13 transistor). iirc there's only 1 68k in a stock crybaby so just look for that one.

T-HO
07-10-2010, 01:16 PM
Ok I`ve done that already. Heres the list:

Wah Circuit Mods

Mid-Range Mod- Replace the 1.5k resistor with a 2.2-2.7k resistor for more Mids

Adjustable Mid-Range Mod- Replace the 1.5k resistor with a 5k pot or trimmer for an adjustable Mid-Range

Q Mod- Replace the 33k resistor with a 47k-100k resistor for more vocal quality (less than 33k for more highs)

Adjustable Q Mod- Replace the 33k resistor with a 100k pot or trimmer

Proper Q Mod- Replace the 0ohm resistor with a 1k pot or trimmer for an adjustable vocal like tone. This is the q you will find in the 535q and crybaby from hell

Fine Tune Mod- Put a 5k pot in series with the ground for the 100k sweep pot (10k if 5k isnt enough) for an adjustable sweet spot

Gain/Bass Mod- Replace the 390 or 470ohm resistor with a 330ohm or lower for an increased bass/gain response

Adjustable Gain/Bass Mod- Replace the 390 or 470ohm resistor with a 500ohm pot or trimmer for an adjustable gain/bass response

Gain/Treble Mod- Replace the 68k resistor with a 47k resistor for added gain/treble response
Adjustable Gain/Treble Mod- Replace the 68k resistor with a 100k pot or trimmer for an adjustable gain/treble response

Boost Kick Switch Mod- *USE A SPDT PUSH BUTTON SWITCH (TRY TO GET A MICRO ONE)!! Remove the 68k and or 390ohm or 470ohm resistor from the board so you have an empty spot. Solder a wire from the middle lug of the switch to either hole in the empty resistor spot. Solder one leg of the resistor to one of the outer lugs. Solder the outer lug of the pot to the other outer lug of the switch. Solder the loose end of the resistor to the middle lug of the pot. It's a good idea to solder a piece of wire from the middle lug of the pot to the unused outer leg. If the pot fails, the circuit won't be broken. Solder a piece onto the middle lug of the pot (where you just soldered the resistor). Solder the other end of this wire to the other empty hole where the resistor was on the board. This is to turn the gain/volume mods on and off on the fly.

3-Way Inductor Switch (For when you have 3 inductors and dont want to leave any unused)- Disconnect any inductor that may be in place. Buy a 3 position rotary switch. Connect 1 pole of the switch to the north series of inductor sockets (forget about the rest of the poles and there throws). Connect one leg from each inductor (with wire) too separate throws (you should now have an inductor on each throw of the switch). Try to fit as many inductors as possible to the south series of inductor sockets (usually to fasels will fit just really have to adjust them to fit in and remember you only need one leg of the inductor to be on the south series). You should at least have one inductor left. Solder a piece of wire to one of the unused legs of the inductor to and open inductor socket on the south series. Place the inductor somewhere it will be safe (I say hot glue it to the front of the case of the wah; a safe and convenient spot for it). This gives you a selection of 3 of your favourite inductors.

Sweep Range Mod- Replace the .01uf capacitor beside the mids resistor to a different value. Most people like to raise it to 0.022uf which give you a bassy sweep range but if you have a JH-1b like me its done for you but if you like a higher up sweep like me, you just decrease the value of the capacitor to say 8.2nf or 6.8nf. My philosophy about Tom Morellos weird sweep range is that his wah accidentally got a 0.001uf cap instead of a 0.01uf one. Also he puts his in his effects loop which also contributes to his signature wah tone. I personally they should make a TM-95 Tom Morello Signature Wah because no one has yet to successfully duplicate his wah sound.

Adjustable Sweep Range Mod- Coming Soon!

Invader Jim
07-10-2010, 01:44 PM
ok cool. didnt know about that 'proper q mod'.

is there any evidence/rumors of that morello thing or is that your theory?

T-HO
07-10-2010, 02:26 PM
That's my theory. When I tried out a 535q, I put it on the highest range which is 1.2nf. It sounded like I was only sweeping the mids like Toms. I sain he must have a 1nf because it seems more likely to mix the stock one up with a 1nf. And the proper q mod in my opinion is way better than the other one. I'm pretty sure they wanted that to happen cause they only put a 0ohm resistor there(sorta like how they put special holes in for a fasel).

edit; Once I get about 15 dollars in my paypal I'm buying capacitors of all different values so I can do the adjustable sweep range mod. The value I'm putting in the sockets is going to be a 1nf so I'll see if my theory is correct.

I also need verification that this will work. I'm going to have two spdt on/off/on toggles for that adjustable sweep mod. When you have two capacitors in series or parell, will there values be combined? Also need to know if what I'm doing is in parallel or series.
.
So this is how it works. I have a capacitor in where it's supposed to be. I connect both of the poles from the switches to one of cap sockets(it's sharing it with the cap). I connect caps of different values to the throws of each switch(1 on each). I connect all of them all together with wire and hook it up where the other socket is(the one without any poles on it). Is this going to work? I want it so when the switch is in the middle/off posistion, the cap thats on the pcb will be the only one active. When I turn the switch on to either side, that cap and the one on the pcb will be combined.

I know some of you will say just use a rotary switch but if you take into account I've done every single mod on that list with an external pot(with the exception of the proper q) I have very limited space.

forsaknazrael
07-10-2010, 03:12 PM
How is the "proper Q mod" better?

Good idea on that one. I've known that was how it was implemented... But I never thought about the 0 ohm resistor. I forgot about that.

T-HO
07-10-2010, 07:52 PM
It's better because it gives you such a great vocal quality, way better than the other mods. It sounds like that vocal wah all you guys really like(sorta like the whipple). If I had a good camera I'd do a sound clp. I don't know if I get alot of requests maybe I will. All you have to do is go to a shop and test one of the following wahs; they all have it:

Crybaby from hell
535q
95q
jerry cantrell

anyone have verification on the adjustable sweep range? I think it will work. If anyone has any mods they want on that list just tell me and I'll put it on. The only one I won't is the volume pedal mod because that's not a real wah mod, it's just a transfer sorta thing, does nothing for the wah sound, just makes it a crappy volume pedal.

ECistheBest
07-10-2010, 07:56 PM
when dealing with a wah that loses volume in heel down position, i like replacing the input cap from a .01uF, to maybe a .022uF or the middle, .015uF if it's too much bass with .022uF.

i find it a bit more useful than the gain/bass response of the emitter of Q1. i don't think it adds that much bass or gain. i also think if you jumper than resistor, you'll get a little square wave effect hahaha.

Invader Jim
07-10-2010, 10:19 PM
^yeah, shorting that resistor does really cool things.

dont knock the volume pedal mod until you actually try it. it's great for swells. I played the Pink Panther theme in my highschool jazz band using mostly the volume pedal mod of my wah. during certain parts i'd kick in the wah mode. the crowd really loved it.

after thinking about it a bit, that theory doesnt sound very plausible to me. For one, there isn't a single 1nF cap in a crybaby so it's very unlikely that they ordered any 1nF caps. also it's pretty doubtful that the guy at QC who's play-testing them would let it out of the factory.

and even if they did accidentally order or recieve a batch of 1nF caps and get out of the factory then there would be thousands of wahs like that, and they would all be considered ultra-crap because of the defective sweep and dunlop would surely hear about it.

maybe he had it modded or smt, but it seems highly implausible to me that it came like that from the factory.

ianisthewalrus
07-11-2010, 01:01 AM
thanks a ton for sticking with me.

i have the GCB-95. i did some playing with it. i did the 100k pot near the inductor, and a volume switch, as well as a .022 uF sweep cap and the Mid boost resistor change.

i still have the input buffer in because i have not true bypass modded yet, but it sound 100 times better already.

im sorry that i cant really describe it better. its not really an eq problem, its more like my notes are high frequency buzzes, which is what distortion i guess... it just changes as the wah goes and sounds really bad. this was how it sounded before any of the mods as well. it sounds a lot better now, but when i distort, that problem is still there.

i have a distortion pedal that i have used in front of the wah, but its a line 6 uber metal pedal, and is hard to keep to a low distortion with minimal crunch as it is :-(. but you are right, it does sound different even with the same pedal before and after. i think it is worse with it before, but that may just be the distortion pedal.

i will try the wah pot tweak, but i tweaked it to where i liked it for the clean already :-\. would it be worth the while to put another pot in series with the wah pot for external tweaking? if i did what do you guys think would be a good pot?

T-HO
07-11-2010, 01:21 AM
what's the jumper resistor and any verificaion on my earlyier post?

Jmoarguitar
07-11-2010, 03:32 PM
hey i feel this is a reasonable place to ask, my wylde pedal broke, and when its plugged in, and i turn it on, it sounds as if it's at the heel back position, no matter what position i put it in. Can someone tell me whats broke in it so i can replace it?

T-HO
07-11-2010, 04:08 PM
I think the gears went out of place and you're stuck in the bass part of sweep. Open your pedal. Now see where those to gears touching each are, the long stick gear and the cylinder gear, that's waht you need to adjust. Now you should see a little piece of plastic touching the stick gear with a screw in the middle of it. Undo the screw, turn the piece of plastic around away from the gear and push the stick gear back. Plug your wah in and start turning that cylinder gear. You should start hear your treble again if you turn it enough. If that was your problem just re-adjust the gear as shown in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnJ2bB4bFfs

actually just follow the video. tell me how it worked.

edit watch this vid too:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fl0XmNtp8rE

make sure that pot nut is pretty tight!!!

Jmoarguitar
07-11-2010, 05:47 PM
the second video helped a lot, i fixed it! Thanks a lot man, i barely got to use the pedal after i bought it.

T-HO
07-11-2010, 06:51 PM
no problem. VERIFICARTION please

forsaknazrael
07-11-2010, 08:04 PM
Calm down, I'll be doing it tomorrow, T-HO. Looks good though, should work fine.

T-HO
07-11-2010, 09:31 PM
Do you mean you'e gonna try it out? Tell me how it works out. Hopefully you can combine capacitors. And what was that jumper resistor talked abot ealier, I wanna try it out.

guarana
07-11-2010, 10:18 PM
I know this mod has been done a thousand times, but I want a bit of a variation on the wah/volume pedal mod, and was wondering if anyone could help me out. I have a two-input, three button footswitch (crate), and I use one input on it to switch my laney's overdrive on/off. SO, I was wondering how I could make the other button on the footswitch switch between the wah and volume.

It's the basic crybaby pedal, and I haven't done any mods yet. Can someone help?

forsaknazrael
07-11-2010, 10:44 PM
No. That's just dumb. The wah would have to be attached to the footswitch.

T-HO, ya I'm gonna try the Q thing.

T-HO
07-12-2010, 12:39 AM
Ohh the proper q mod. You won't regret it. Ithought you were going to to thhe seep range thing I made but I don't know if it will work.

forsaknazrael
07-12-2010, 12:45 AM
Oh, I didn't look at how you were implementing it.

I don't see much use in it though, as I like it where it is.

Griffin Effects
07-12-2010, 01:11 AM
T-HO: It should work the way you drew it. I only took a quick glance though.
You should have one leg of every cap connected together. The other legs connected to the outer lugs of the switches and the middle lugs of the switches to where the cap is on the board.

That's the down-and-dirty way to do it. I would do it on strip or perfboard at least but that's just me.

T-HO
07-12-2010, 01:20 AM
ld perf board it but i have no idea how. i'd have to make traces and everything.

Griffin Effects
07-12-2010, 01:24 AM
ld perf board it but i have no idea how. i'd have to make traces and everything.

This would almost be the easiest perfboard or stripboard to do.

Here. Did this really quick. You actually don't have to make the pad moved up on the bottom row of the perf. I don't know why I did that. It's a PCB habit. As I said. I just did it really quick. You can connect the wire right on the bottom row.

ECistheBest
07-12-2010, 05:04 PM
Do you mean you'e gonna try it out? Tell me how it works out. Hopefully you can combine capacitors. And what was that jumper resistor talked abot ealier, I wanna try it out.
i meant short this resistor:


Gain/Bass Mod- Replace the 390 or 470ohm resistor with a 330ohm or lower for an increased bass/gain response

Adjustable Gain/Bass Mod- Replace the 390 or 470ohm resistor with a 500ohm pot or trimmer for an adjustable gain/bass response


and u get a fuzz face's first transistor but in a wah box kinda thing. :haha

T-HO
07-12-2010, 08:24 PM
so just solder the two legs of that resistor together? That creates a fuzz face sorta sound? Sweet!

Invader Jim
07-12-2010, 11:22 PM
no it doesnt. you are mixing up a crapload of different unrelated sentences.

ECistheBest
07-13-2010, 02:54 AM
it's only copying the first half of a fuzz face. which isn't very much. you wouldn't get much clipping anyway.


but it would be funny. kinda cool... ya.

T-HO
07-16-2010, 12:38 AM
How do ceramic disc capacitors sound in a wah? Good, bad, horrible?

Griffin Effects
07-16-2010, 12:47 AM
You can socket the caps and swap them out to find out.
Usually ceramic caps aren't the best in quality and are usually upgraded to a better quality cap in mods. You should try it out though. I've found that upgrading to a better cap isn't always best for the sound of a pedal. Everybody upgrades in quality because they assume it will make the pedal better sounding. What about downgrading to get a certain sound? I've done it many times.

T-HO
07-16-2010, 01:14 AM
I'll try it tomorrow and post back. I'm pesonally gonna think it's gonna be a thin sounding wah.

forsaknazrael
07-16-2010, 01:33 AM
Ceramic caps wouldN't make THAT big a difference...
Material is usually a subtle difference, unless there's a lot of em being "upgraded".

Invader Jim
07-16-2010, 12:36 PM
one of the boutique pedal builders says that some of the best-sounding caps to him are the cheapest ceramics he can find.

Griffin Effects
07-16-2010, 12:58 PM
Yeah. I don't look at it as cheaper means worse. I don't consider price at all. I just look at how they contribute to the sound but I usually don't spend a lot of time worrying about cap type.

Where $3 silver micas might improve clarity and give a more hi-fi sound, that may not always be my goal and $0.08 ceramic caps may give me that muddy, gritty sound I am after.

Changing one or two caps, in a circuit that has dozens, to a different type probably won't make too much of an audible difference. It might make a little more difference in a smaller circuit with only a few caps like a fuzz face, boost, or wah.

Invader Jim
07-16-2010, 02:06 PM
yeah, that was mainly for t-ho. i just use film, mostly. if i have a circuit with electrolytic coupling caps, then i'll use tantalum instead. imo lytics arent so friendly to lows and highs. plus lytics will eventually dry out (after several decades, i know, but i may end up havng the pedal that long, who knows :p: )

t-ho, the main thing you are after is changing the tone, so you'll only need to replace coupling caps and bypass caps. filter caps and such are not even in the signal path.

forsaknazrael
07-16-2010, 02:11 PM
I use metal poly film for stuff like the .22uF caps, everything else is just normal film.

Invader Jim
07-16-2010, 02:16 PM
maybe someone should make an ultimate capacitor thread :rolleyes:

forsaknazrael
07-16-2010, 02:17 PM
Heh. I do it because that's what vintage Clydes used. I noticed a difference when going from stock caps to metal poly, but I haven't tried between film and metal. Could be no difference, who knows. :p:

Invader Jim
07-17-2010, 03:53 PM
orly? i thought they used 220nF tropical fish caps.

forsaknazrael
07-17-2010, 04:20 PM
Yea, but the metallized poly film stuff is supposed to be just like those caps, in terms of material.
I'd rather find a modern workalike rather than search for mojo. :D

Invader Jim
07-17-2010, 09:23 PM
yeah really. people love overcharging for those old caps.

T-HO
07-25-2010, 05:36 PM
Hi guys. Decided to put some pics up of my wah. About 65% done now. Going to do the sweep range mod, 3-way inductor mod, and upgrade some of the mods I've done. Sounds so great so far!

T-HO
07-25-2010, 05:39 PM
now the guts!

mickey_metal
07-25-2010, 06:50 PM
now the guts!

Hi!

Why did you decide to get the yellow fasel? :)

T-HO
07-25-2010, 07:14 PM
Hi!

Why did you decide to get the yellow fasel? :)
I just felt like being a little different. I have the red and the original. I'm just waiting on a 3 posistion rotary switch so i can use all 3 of them.

T-HO
07-26-2010, 09:39 PM
ok big question. Is there subosted to be a huge difference between the red and yellow fasel. Only thing i've noticied is that the red has a little higher mid-range and i mean little. Mine also look to be a little darker than usaul red and yellow. Yellow is more like mustard and red is like a blackened red. Is this right?

Griffin Effects
07-26-2010, 09:51 PM
There should be an audible difference. The color of the plastic doesn't make them sound different :D it's how they are wound inside. See the little discussion about this I had with Invader Jim in the previous posts in this thread.

T-HO
07-26-2010, 10:41 PM
yeah put is it supposed to be a huge difference. I bought the 2 cheapest ones i found for ebay. Could they have scamed me?

Griffin Effects
07-26-2010, 10:50 PM
I wouldn't say it's HUGE. I would say it's a noticeable difference. I don't think you got scammed. Sellers don't measure the inductors before they sell them. It's not their fault. You probably just got some that were lower than spec or the red one is close or lower than spec and the yellow is higher than spec.

WtrPlyr
07-28-2010, 02:48 PM
Hi guys, thought I'd post some pics of my modded wah. Mods I did:
- True Bypass
- Purple LED
- Fulltone 100k pot
- Red Fasel
- 100k 'vocal'-resistor
- 0.015uF Orange Drop sweep cap
- 2.5K trimpot for mids
- 1K trimpot for gain/bass
- 1K pot instead of 0 ohm
- Refinished

http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/profile_mojo_data/2/2/4/9/224915/pics/_c870288_image_0.jpg

http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/profile_mojo_data/2/2/4/9/224915/pics/_c870289_image_0.jpg

forsaknazrael
07-28-2010, 02:59 PM
woo!

you should nao make clipz

WtrPlyr
07-28-2010, 03:30 PM
Hmm, could do that yeah, I'm bored anyways.

jimRH7
07-28-2010, 03:50 PM
hullo folks, quick 'noob' q. i'm gonna mod my own crybaby for bass, swapping the 0.01uf cap for 0.068uf. just wondering what type of cap (eg: metalised plate, polyester, etc.) i should use?

Invader Jim
07-28-2010, 05:15 PM
any type works.

T-HO
07-29-2010, 03:23 PM
hey nice finish!!! I bought the exact same trimpots, kinda overpriced but wtf.i feel like doing some clips. I guess i accidentally moded my wah so that when i'm on the part of the rotary switch that doesn't have an inductor on it, it becomes a sorta gain pedal and with my amp on boost and it fully depressed it gives me this amazing distortion-from the wah! the only thing i could suggest to you is that instead of trimpots just add external pots definetly for the gain/bass one. I always find myself adjusting in everytime i play. the last mod i have to do now is the adjustable sweep range and upgrade some of the pots to higher values.

P.S. how do you like the "proper q" mod?

T-HO
07-29-2010, 03:26 PM
hullo folks, quick 'noob' q. i'm gonna mod my own crybaby for bass, swapping the 0.01uf cap for 0.068uf. just wondering what type of cap (eg: metalised plate, polyester, etc.) i should use?
anything but ceramic is good. ceramic caps give it a much more unotice able wah. I think poly are stock. I want to try metal soon to see if that will get me more wah sound.

anyone know a place where i can get a assortment of metal film caps for cheap?

forsaknazrael
07-29-2010, 03:56 PM
Nope. Most places that carry metal film have ones with really big voltage ratings, so they're really big. I don't recommend doing that, obviously...

polishedbullet
08-04-2010, 09:19 PM
Can you add anything...interesting...to a 535Q Crybaby?

It already has the Boost and Range selector, and the Volume and Variable Q control.

Griffin Effects
08-04-2010, 09:52 PM
Can you add anything...interesting...to a 535Q Crybaby?

It already has the Boost and Range selector, and the Volume and Variable Q control.

What would you want to do to it? First I'd open it up and look at the tiny SMT components and see if that's something you can handle soldering. If you want to give it a try, and you have an older version of it, you can remove R41 and R42 in order to make it really true bypass. This should give you a little more treble. They placed them wrong in the older ones. It's an impedance thing. ;)

polishedbullet
08-04-2010, 10:21 PM
This model's pretty recent. I bought it in December 2009 so I doubt it's an older model.

Griffin Effects
08-04-2010, 11:03 PM
You should take a look inside and see if there are resistors in the two spots. They removed them on the newer ones.

salgala2000
08-09-2010, 07:52 PM
Hey Guys,
Reccomend me some cheap (<10$ for parts hopefully) mods to do to my GCB-95. I kind of like the sound of my wah but I've never had anything better to compare it too so I can't tell you exactly what i wan't to change. Yes I'm good with a soldering iron. (I have a multi-meter too if I need it?)
So Reccomend me some mods!

forsaknazrael
08-09-2010, 07:57 PM
Well, without knowing what you want to change it's difficult to recommend mods. ;)

More bass? Mids? Smoother Transition? Thicker sound? etc...etc..

blandguitar
08-09-2010, 08:07 PM
My favorite mod is to throw in a volume mode switch. The way I do it, all you should have to buy is a cap, wire,and switch. Although, I think you shouldn't feed the blind urge to mod feeling.

forsaknazrael
08-09-2010, 08:13 PM
Hey, what's your volume mod method?
I've been meaning to do it, because I can't get my Ernie Ball strung right. :haha

I want it for swells, that's it.


The only difference is that's i've modified my buffer quite a bit, and the 4.7uF gets involved in this...

blandguitar
08-09-2010, 10:21 PM
I use a dpdt switch, one pole switches the 4.7uF out, and the other pole switches the input cap, I used a .47uF, but .33uF should work well, too.

http://i693.photobucket.com/albums/vv292/blandguitar/Pedals/volumemodemod.png

The two caps on the right should be switched. The .47uF should be used when the 4.7uF is disconnected. This allows more bass in than the .1uF stock cap, which eliminates the bass loss in the sweep.

forsaknazrael
08-09-2010, 10:30 PM
Why switch input cap? It cuts that much bass? I have a .022 uF in there, I think. Double whatever is stock. :shrug:

So this works good for swells, without reindexing the wah pot?

salgala2000
08-09-2010, 10:50 PM
Hey guys i found this website which is useful and has quite a few wah mods... enjoy

http://www.stinkfoot.se/andreas/diy/diyhome.htm

forsaknazrael
08-09-2010, 10:51 PM
Thank you for posting the same link that is on the very first page of this thread. :p: :poke:

blandguitar
08-09-2010, 11:28 PM
Why switch input cap? It cuts that much bass? I have a .022 uF in there, I think. Double whatever is stock. :shrug:

So this works good for swells, without reindexing the wah pot?

I noticed a big influence on bass response with the stock cap, so I just threw in one that was laying around in it. try it with the .22uF and see if it works well enough, but switching the input cap worked well for me rather well. Doubling the input cap shifts the frequency response down an octave, which allows a good bit more bass in. just increase the cap until it works, I just noticed it worked damn well first random guess.

salgala2000
08-10-2010, 09:59 AM
Thank you for posting the same link that is on the very first page of this thread. :p: :poke:
Oh... I didn't read the first page :bonk:

salgala2000
08-10-2010, 10:08 AM
Hey guys I was removing the buffer like it said in that link i posted above (2b).
PROBLEM:
To the top right of the transistor, the wah in the pic has a yellow blob componenet thingy, but my wah has like a blue rectangle and it says DOTC401 on it I think... Should i remove this or not??

blandguitar
08-10-2010, 10:09 AM
Unless it impairs you in some way to have it there, leave it.

salgala2000
08-10-2010, 10:18 AM
Unless it impairs you in some way to have it there, leave it.
I ment that it's part of the "buffer" that I'm removing. So if I leave it there the buffer will still be gone? And i won't mess it up?
My crybaby is the REV I and it says it should be the same as pic but yellow thing i have a blue box type thing which doesn't appear in the picture and i'm not sure if i should remove it or not?

blandguitar
08-10-2010, 10:25 AM
Unless it stops you from desoldering a leg from a component, I'd leave it. They probably just used a different material from different times.

salgala2000
08-10-2010, 10:33 AM
Ok thanks a lot

salgala2000
08-10-2010, 11:07 AM
Another newwb question. Is the DPDT switch i'm supposed to get should be on/on?

blandguitar
08-10-2010, 11:14 AM
For the volume pedal mode switch? Yes.

salgala2000
08-10-2010, 11:29 AM
Ok. I ment for the true bypass but i got the one that he recommended on the site so i'll assume it works..

blandguitar
08-10-2010, 11:54 AM
The true bypass is a stomp switch, so yes, it's ON/ON.

ethan_hanus
08-12-2010, 11:14 AM
So I've been using the first post to mod my Crybaby GCB-95, I've done the vocal mod, I used a 100k pot out of a DS-1, and it seems to work rather nicely, and I've done the midrange mod, which helped a lot, and I got rid of that metal bar under the pedal and replaced it with some valve springs out of a engine, since I have a heavy foot.

It still sounds a bit on the wild side though, I've looked around, but I don't know what I can do next to get a more smooth wah sound. I'm thinking of the bass frequencies mod, but all I have is another 100k pot, will that work?

All the parts I have are out of a Keeley modded Boss DS-1 btw.

forsaknazrael
08-12-2010, 01:17 PM
define "wild side". :confused:

and no that 100K pot won't work.

ethan_hanus
08-12-2010, 01:37 PM
Idk, it just doesn't sound right, I think I got control of the highs with the tone pot, but the lows, when the pedal is in the up position, it's like there is nothing, I'm getting like, only up to 300hz of the frequency range, don't know if that's normal.

I think the best way to describe it is that it's not smooth enough. Maybe it's just a shoddy pedal to begin with :haha:

forsaknazrael
08-12-2010, 01:46 PM
The heel down is the bass side...that's how it is.
If you want a smoother transition, increase the 1.5K resistor to around 1.8-2.2K. There's a link on the first page that will show you where it is.

Also try moving the range of the wah pot. You can reindex the sweep by changing the teeth that the wah pot rotates through.

ethan_hanus
08-12-2010, 02:43 PM
The heel down is the bass side...that's how it is.
If you want a smoother transition, increase the 1.5K resistor to around 1.8-2.2K. There's a link on the first page that will show you where it is.

Also try moving the range of the wah pot. You can reindex the sweep by changing the teeth that the wah pot rotates through.

Yeah, I put a 2.2k resistor there, and that actually helped the most.

I think I should do that, since I added the valve springs, I decreased the total motion of the pedal a bit, so I can't get the full highs, but I get the full bass, which is what I don't want.

Mech-cannibal
08-13-2010, 05:45 PM
i know this is the wah modding thread, but i figure there would be someone here who could tell me this;
my housemate gave me his old boss sd-1 (super overdrive), it sounds terrible, i was wondering if i could gut it, and use the components to create a half decent boost? or should i just stick with the original idea of doing the sd808 mod?

forsaknazrael
08-13-2010, 06:25 PM
The 808 mods would make it a decent boost...:confused:

Johananas
08-15-2010, 09:18 AM
Hi!

I bought a modded Crybaby (the standard one, GCB-95), and really liked it on my clean sound for Hendrix-esque stuff. But now I play mostly rock and metal, and it sounds like crap! I'm satisfied with the highs, but the bass sound very muddy and "compressed" when using distortion. It's modded for true bypass, and it also has the "lower range mod" (0.01uF cap changed to 0.022uF) and the "mid boost" mod (1.5K resistor changed to 2k). I figured it must be the "lower range mod" that mess it up, would it be a good idea to change this capacitator back to 0.01uF?

This is what it sounds like, notice the weird sound when in heel position:
http://www.mediafire.com/?5cdt81b4la71x6j

forsaknazrael
08-15-2010, 10:04 AM
Dude, wahs just sound bassy in the heel position! That's how it is.

Johananas
08-15-2010, 10:17 AM
Yeah I know, but mine isn't just bassy, it's weird! :eek:
If you compare the sound in my clip (for example at ~0:30) to this one (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhQcCIDgacM) (at about 2:00) you do hear a difference, right?

forsaknazrael
08-15-2010, 10:19 AM
Try reindexing your wah pot. Change the teeth that it rotates through.

Griffin Effects
08-15-2010, 11:28 AM
Hi!

I bought a modded Crybaby (the standard one, GCB-95), and really liked it on my clean sound for Hendrix-esque stuff. But now I play mostly rock and metal, and it sounds like crap! I'm satisfied with the highs, but the bass sound very muddy and "compressed" when using distortion. It's modded for true bypass, and it also has the "lower range mod" (0.01uF cap changed to 0.022uF) and the "mid boost" mod (1.5K resistor changed to 2k). I figured it must be the "lower range mod" that mess it up, would it be a good idea to change this capacitator back to 0.01uF?

This is what it sounds like, notice the weird sound when in heel position:
http://www.mediafire.com/?5cdt81b4la71x6j

Change your 0.022uf back to .01uf.

Griffin Effects
08-15-2010, 11:35 AM
i know this is the wah modding thread, but i figure there would be someone here who could tell me this;
my housemate gave me his old boss sd-1 (super overdrive), it sounds terrible, i was wondering if i could gut it, and use the components to create a half decent boost? or should i just stick with the original idea of doing the sd808 mod?

The SD-1 is basically a Tube Screamer and a lot of people don't like these pedals with SS amps. They were meant to push a tube amp so if you have a SS amp, this may be your problem.

You could try to turn the drive all the way down and the volume all the way up for a boost. Maybe try removing D4, D5 and D6.

Johananas
08-16-2010, 06:27 PM
Did booth, first changed the cap back and then tweaked the index of the pot, and it sounds a lot better now. Thanks!

salgala2000
08-18-2010, 10:07 AM
Hey guys i was doing the true bypass mod on my gcb-95. I ordered a DPDT switch.
Problem is I don't know which lugs are lugs 1,2,3, etc. Can you guys help me out?

blandguitar
08-18-2010, 10:22 AM
1 4

2 5

3 6

http://www.stinkfoot.se/andreas/diy/mods/dunlop.htm

salgala2000
08-18-2010, 10:26 AM
thanks you