glue for fingerboard


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misiu
06-18-2007, 02:42 AM
what type of glue is best to go with for laying down a new fingerboard guys? ebony fingerboard, maple neck. how long should I keep it clamped up together.

eXperiment63
06-18-2007, 05:24 AM
http://projectguitar.com/tut/attach.htm

avenged_7_fold
06-18-2007, 08:32 AM
I use plain old wood glue, and clamped it down with C clamps(about seven)

Pikka Bird
06-18-2007, 09:49 AM
(about seven)
Yeah, so that it's, like, clamped sevenfold!! http://www.imbruglia-inside.com/smiley_headbang.gif

AlGeeEater
06-18-2007, 11:24 AM
I'd go with Titebond, which is basically 'the standard' but it's just a personal preference. You will only need to leave it clamped for a few hours at best, any longer and you risk stressing the joint.

misiu
06-18-2007, 11:01 PM
should I bother ordering glue from stewmac.com or just go to local hardware store?

Pikka Bird
06-18-2007, 11:11 PM
...doesn't that kind of depend on the selection of glues your local hardware store has in stock? If they have Titebond II or original Titebond, just get it there. Saves the shipping, I guess.

CorduroyEW
06-18-2007, 11:21 PM
should I bother ordering glue from stewmac.com or just go to local hardware store?


Use tightbond. You could get it at stewmac but why bother. Don't use tightbond 2 or tightbond 3, just use regular ol' tightbond. I know some people that say to use epoxy because it is less likely to warp the neck, but if you use a double action truss rod... Just use tightbond.

Also, stress on the gluejoint has nothing to do with keeping it clamped too long. As a general rule I like to keep a fretboard clamped for 24hrs but you could leave it in the clamps for days and it wouldn't hurt anything. Some makers I know only leave it in the clamps for 4hrs which seems to work for them but extra time won't hurt anything. On the othe hand, not enough time will hurt a lot.

Pikka Bird
06-18-2007, 11:25 PM
Not Titebond 2? Is this a personal preference or does it have grave downsides?

CorduroyEW
06-18-2007, 11:37 PM
It's got grave downsides. There is a chance that someday you will need to fix the neck. The neck could warp, the truss rod might break, or whatever, but you might need to fix it. Water is an important part of loosening a glue joint so us luthiers can fix this stuff. If you use a waterproof glue it makes it much harder to fix. On a guitar there is no need for waterproof glue. If the guitar it getting wet enough to loosen glue joints it's either because a luthier is trying to take the guitar apart or you dropped your guitar in the bathtub.

AlGeeEater
06-19-2007, 11:35 AM
Whether or not you need to disassemble a joint with Titebond 2 or 3 is irrelevant, they both don't cure hard enough for guitar building purposes.

I wouldn't use original Titebond on a truss rod anchor either, just incase you need to remove it later it's a lot less work removing caulk than it is glue.

Yes, leaving a clamp on a glue joint for too long WILL stress the joint. In 24 hours, temperature and humidity change along with the wood expanding and contracting during this period. Stress is cause by either tightening or loosening the clamps after 30 minutes. It's probably irrelevant unless you've got things clamped up for more than 24 hours, but it's still overkill to leave clamps on for that long. 2-4 hours is PLENTY of time, and I always like to free my clamps up.

misiu
06-19-2007, 10:00 PM
hey guys, while I have your attention, whats the paper tape that was on my truss rod when I took the original fingerboard off?, and why was the truss rod taped on its underside for? was it tto prevent glue from gettign in?

Will_Minus
06-19-2007, 11:13 PM
Most likely, yes.

misiu
06-19-2007, 11:30 PM
is there a specific paper tape that's best for the trussrod/fingerboard

misiu
06-19-2007, 11:47 PM
http://mickeys.smugmug.com/gallery/3030656#164786394

gallery of some pics so far.

a big question I have is if you look at the nut end of the old fingerboard, there's a section of 10mm that has been reduced to 1mm thickness on top of which the nut goes.

my question is, what tool do I use to cut the new fingerboard with to reduce the thickness of this part of the board?

also, whats going to be the best way to cut away at the neck end of the fingerboard so that I can access the truss rod nut?


also, have a look at the old truss rod (the silver one) is it too rusted you think to go on? it obviously fits the neck perfectly and the new one is too long and too thin for the neck.

what should I do here?


other than that, what do you guys think of it? what abotu the grain on the new fingerboard?

i've got emg 81 and 85's to go in + Black OFR trem + will be getting black locking tuners to go in, not sure on which brand of locking tuners. any ideas welcome.

misiu
06-22-2007, 11:00 AM
anyone got any ideas on the above questions? cheers