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Old 07-29-2014, 04:27 PM   #11461
Cap47
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I will still be following here. What else do I have to do being retired?
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Old 08-04-2014, 06:09 PM   #11462
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Alright I'm about to do the Mesa mod on my 112. I've drained the amp by leaving turning it off without flipping the standby switch and it hasn't been plugged in for a week and a half. I didn't get any significant readings from the power tube pins. How bad of an idea would it be to cut the leads of the caps and resistor I need to change and solder the leads from the new components to the leads of the old ones? Would this work or do I have to take all the knobs and everything off of the face to access the other side of the board?
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Old 08-07-2014, 09:08 AM   #11463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sox0690
Alright I'm about to do the Mesa mod on my 112. I've drained the amp by leaving turning it off without flipping the standby switch and it hasn't been plugged in for a week and a half. I didn't get any significant readings from the power tube pins. How bad of an idea would it be to cut the leads of the caps and resistor I need to change and solder the leads from the new components to the leads of the old ones? Would this work or do I have to take all the knobs and everything off of the face to access the other side of the board?



Sorry I'm late on this. If you got no readings from the power tube pins you should be ok. Check and check again.

Yes, you have to take off the knobs and nuts so you can flip the board. They come off easily enough, just put a small flathead between the chassis and the know and give it a try. Don't solder on top of the board, it will have a high risk of failure.
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Old 08-08-2014, 11:32 PM   #11464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sox0690
Alright I'm about to do the Mesa mod on my 112. I've drained the amp by leaving turning it off without flipping the standby switch and it hasn't been plugged in for a week and a half. I didn't get any significant readings from the power tube pins. How bad of an idea would it be to cut the leads of the caps and resistor I need to change and solder the leads from the new components to the leads of the old ones? Would this work or do I have to take all the knobs and everything off of the face to access the other side of the board?

This is a bad idea. To get a proper solder bond you need to stop doing the lazy method. Do it right, it is not that difficult to remove the knobs and pot nuts, the standby switch, the long black or grey round cable (depending on version} and clip a wire tie or two so you can flip the board. There are six or seven screws in the board. Slide a couple wooden dowels or cut some wood sticks to to slide under the board once you have enough stuff removed to allow you to flip it over. Doesn't have to completely come off, just enough to get it to flip. Take pictures before, during and after, well lit and focused. Helps in re-assembly.
Go to the WIKI and use my Bias Mod as a guide to disassembly. Pics and directions.
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Last edited by Cap47 : 08-08-2014 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 08-10-2014, 04:47 PM   #11465
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So this thread has been awesome. It has helped me transform my VK to totally different beast then it originated from.

That said we all know the reverb sucks on this amp. Has anyone tried replacing the reverb tank on this thing? It is upgradeable for a fraction of the price of a reverb pedal. hasanyoen tired this with respectable results?
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Old 08-10-2014, 07:03 PM   #11466
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Speaking of the reverb tank ..

Was recording clean last week and it became evident that something in the VK100 head is jingling around from the big bottom end vibrations when I'm cranked. It's definitely a mechanical noise, not electrical so I figure it's either the tank, the valve retainers or the tubes themselves. Sounds like a glassy or light metallic tinkling. Pretty sure the tubes are ok - checked them recently and they're all seated fine and sounding sweet. Any experience with this?
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Old 08-10-2014, 10:46 PM   #11467
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I just got a valveking 212 & I want to change out the speakers. I play rock, punk, and industrial rock. I'm thinking of going with 2 different speakers to kind of get something different & be able to use two mics when recording. I'm looking at either eminence, or Celestion for replacements. I don't play metal. I'm interested in getting speakers that compliment each other without being muddy or farty on the low end. Any help would greatly appriciated.

Thank you.
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Old 08-11-2014, 01:04 PM   #11468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie78
I just got a valveking 212 & I want to change out the speakers. I play rock, punk, and industrial rock. I'm thinking of going with 2 different speakers to kind of get something different & be able to use two mics when recording. I'm looking at either eminence, or Celestion for replacements. I don't play metal. I'm interested in getting speakers that compliment each other without being muddy or farty on the low end. Any help would greatly appriciated.

Thank you.



I have heard of a bunch of different Eminence combinations. I have personally emailed Eminence on a few separate occasions and they always got back to me with a quick and helpful response. Send them a quick message naming your amp, watts, what kind of tone you are after, a d exactly what you are looking for and they will get back to in probably just a few hours or the next morning.

I am not acquainted with Celestion speakers so I can't help much there

Another company that may be worth your time to check out is Warehouse Guitar Speakers. According to their website they sell speakers that are "celestion replacements" or in some cases "upgrades". I just bought one of their ET65 speakers (Celestion G12-65 "upgrade") to upgrade my stock VK speaker and it is a huge improvement even without it being completely broken in. Sounds great. Right on their website they suggest paring their ET65 with their Veteran 30(a celestion vintage 30 "upgrade") for the best tone you could ever ask for(obvious marketing ploy). But for what it's worth I'm a satisfied buyer and at about half the price as celestion it's hard to go wrong if you find something you are interested in.

Last edited by Smigzy : 08-11-2014 at 01:10 PM.
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Old 08-11-2014, 04:43 PM   #11469
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I really like V30s, and they would work nicely if you can play decently loud. V30s are a loud speakers and they need to be somewhat pushed before they come into their own. If that's not a problem then I would recommend them, or their cheaper WGS Veteran 30 counter part.
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Old 08-11-2014, 04:57 PM   #11470
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danustar
Speaking of the reverb tank ..

Was recording clean last week and it became evident that something in the VK100 head is jingling around from the big bottom end vibrations when I'm cranked. It's definitely a mechanical noise, not electrical so I figure it's either the tank, the valve retainers or the tubes themselves. Sounds like a glassy or light metallic tinkling. Pretty sure the tubes are ok - checked them recently and they're all seated fine and sounding sweet. Any experience with this?

One way to find out...


...take it out.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:00 PM   #11471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smigzy
So this thread has been awesome. It has helped me transform my VK to totally different beast then it originated from.

That said we all know the reverb sucks on this amp. Has anyone tried replacing the reverb tank on this thing? It is upgradeable for a fraction of the price of a reverb pedal. hasanyoen tired this with respectable results?

It has been done. A long 3 spring tank can be mounted. 9eb2c1b or 9eb3c1b will fit. The last number is a longer decay. I bought the isolation bag and just put a screw at each end. The unit should not be tightened it needs to be isolated to work right. I also find reverb is better with a NOS 12at7 in V2.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:50 PM   #11472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap47
It has been done. A long 3 spring tank can be mounted. 9eb2c1b or 9eb3c1b will fit. The last number is a longer decay. I bought the isolation bag and just put a screw at each end. The unit should not be tightened it needs to be isolated to work right. I also find reverb is better with a NOS 12at7 in V2.



So you just put the original ruby tank in a iso bag? How did it turn out? I wasn't sure if the tank made much of a difference or if most of the tone came from different parts of the circuitry? I see all kinds of tanks for under $25 on amplified parts and thought it may be a good investment if it made a drastic improvement. By longer decay do you mean how long the effect is heard after playing a note for instance?

I have a jj 12at7 in the V3 position. I am really happy with how it cleaned up and made the clean channel much more dynamic. And now the lead is much less boxy and actually usable (I don't play metal... Blues/grunge/funk/rock is what I'm after) I just ordered a tung-sol 12ax7 that I am gonna try out in the v1 and v2 positions when it gets here in a few days. Then I was thinking about getting a penta lab 5751or groove tubes 12ax7 to swap around v1 or v2. I read on the valve king wiki a lot of stuff you and others said Bout tubes. But I never saw anyone anyone put. More then 1 12at7 in. I'm still new to tubes so Idk. I always open for tube advice

Last edited by Smigzy : 08-11-2014 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 08-13-2014, 12:31 AM   #11473
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I don't use a 12at7 in V3. The reverb goes thru 1/2 of V2 so I put the 12at7 there and a long plate RCA 12ax7 in V3. Not all amps are spec'd for 12at7 in the PI slot. VK doesn't need it. If you really want better reverb V2 is where it goes. That is based on my own findings by trying it and liking the results. I have not tried a longer decay so I can't vouch for whether I like that. My pan is 9eb2c1b.
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Old 08-13-2014, 08:26 AM   #11474
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Thanks Cap47... I really respect your opinions on the VK. You obviously have experience and knowledge of them. I think maybe I'll move the JJ 12at7 from the V3 to the V2 spot. And put the tung-sol 12ax7 in the V3. I dont mind spending some money on various tubes that are 10-20$ bucks. But I don't really want to start getting into tubes that are really expensive.

My VK was manufactured in 3/2013 and it has all ruby tubes in it. I hear the ruby power tubes are actually pretty good. So I was gonna just stay with them. But I wanted to replace all the preamps. I so far have as stat d earlier a JJ 12at7 and tung-sol 12ax7. I'm after a blues/grunge/funk/rock tone. Nothing high gain. And I want the cleanest most articulate cleans possible. Any suggestions for V1? Or should I make a change in V3?
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Old 08-13-2014, 11:01 PM   #11475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smigzy
Thanks Cap47... I really respect your opinions on the VK. You obviously have experience and knowledge of them. I think maybe I'll move the JJ 12at7 from the V3 to the V2 spot. And put the tung-sol 12ax7 in the V3. I dont mind spending some money on various tubes that are 10-20$ bucks. But I don't really want to start getting into tubes that are really expensive.

My VK was manufactured in 3/2013 and it has all ruby tubes in it. I hear the ruby power tubes are actually pretty good. So I was gonna just stay with them. But I wanted to replace all the preamps. I so far have as stat d earlier a JJ 12at7 and tung-sol 12ax7. I'm after a blues/grunge/funk/rock tone. Nothing high gain. And I want the cleanest most articulate cleans possible. Any suggestions for V1? Or should I make a change in V3?

Of new production tubes I like the TAD HG 7025 in V1.
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Old 08-14-2014, 05:12 AM   #11476
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Hi again folks!

Tried to do a proper search on this first, but haven't seen any topic on it. Not one valveking wiki either. My VK112 has an annoying ground loop hum only when using the FX send and return loop. I use it in the following way:

1. From a clean boost/overdrive pedal -> input jack 2 of the VK112.
2. From FX Loop SEND -> Delay Pedal -> Strymon Reverb ->
3. To FX Loop RETURN to the VK112. No problem with hum there!

HOWEVER!

4. I use the STEREO outs of these both delay/reverb units to go channel LEFT into another clean soudning amp (in this case EBS Session bass 60 combo). To get ping pong delays and mighty stereo reverbs with the Strymon.
5. This has worked before on other tube amps I've used without a problem.


However, I think the preamp/power amp section of the VK112 works slightly different since it has no master volume as such (on both channels). On other amps I could turn down the master volume of that amp (say I am using it has the right channel amp) and still hear it through the FX/LOOP return feed of the left channel amp. I e that the PREAMP section of the amp was the only thing sent out through the FX loop.

On the VK112 it seems all go together. When turning down any master volume on the VK112 (say on the gain channel) it sends nothing out on the fx loop. So the power tube or "volume" section seems to be involved.

When I crank the volume on the VK112 to produce high levels, the auxillary left channel amp raises it volumes TOO, but not the annyoing hum/buzz.

Of course, I've checked all cables - and with another amp - so it's not that it isn't grounded/earthed. There's not any buzz/hum in the actual VK112 return of the FX/LOOP. I don't know if the returning signal is "too weak" for an external amp to pick up properly, but I've tried it going into line mixers and other amps too. It seems that the FX loop sned/return levels are only appropriate for the internal impedance matchings of the amp itself.

Mind you, no actual signal distortion, or tone/timbre degragation is heard.

Any advice?
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Old 08-16-2014, 11:40 AM   #11477
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So in gonna post again my opinion (very very limited experience mind you) on tubes I have played with a bit.

So my VK came loaded with all Rubys. Gonna keep the power tubes but replace the PREamps. I started with the V3. Based on recommendations from the wiki page I went with a JJ 12at7. I was really impressed with how it cleaned up the distortion channel and brought new dynamic life to the clean.

So next I wanted to brighten up the lead channel a bit. So I ordered up a tung-sol 12ax7 for the V2. It took the VK right back to the crappy beginner solid state distortion that I was trying to get away from in the beginning. So based on some helpful advice from you fellow VK users I swapped the V3 and V2. Still really boxy. I mean when I put the gain past 1-2 it's unuseable. It just sounds like a digital mess.

So I swapped the JJ 12at7 back to the V3. A ruby back to the V2. And the tung-sol into V1. The clean is now less smooth And saturated. It is now pretty brittle and glassy. The distortion is more useable now but still just a tad darker then I'd like.

So basically I am really happy with the JJ. The rubys are ok... But I gotta believe there is better out there. As far as I'm concerned the tung-sol is junk.

I've spent hours on the wiki page And asking for advice on here. I really appreciate all the input. I hope I don't come across as an ass. Asking for advice but not always taking it. I am still open to any advice I can get. I'm thinking about maybe a 5751 in the V2? Or maybe another 12at7? Is this even possible or do I want to try and keep 2 out of the 3 preamps 12ax7?

By the way... I literally got a blister on my finger trying to get V1 and V2 out. And I wore medical latex gloves. There has got to be an easier way to get these things out...amirite???
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Old 08-17-2014, 06:17 AM   #11478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smigzy
So this thread has been awesome. It has helped me transform my VK to totally different beast then it originated from.

That said we all know the reverb sucks on this amp. Has anyone tried replacing the reverb tank on this thing? It is upgradeable for a fraction of the price of a reverb pedal. hasanyoen tired this with respectable results?


I for one, have removed the reverb tank altogether. And the wires too. I am one of those few people using the FX loop of this amp into a Strymon Blue Sky pedal which does have a decent enough - for me - spring impersonation. Strymon Blue Sky is a very expensive digital reverb pedal, though. But then again, you can move it around and use it on other amps too, which has shaky, dodgy and cheap tanks inside, or even malfunctioning (due to tube wear, or loose wires).

Also, one can use the pedal with a plate impersonation that makes SOME guitar sounds better than a spring. And noise and hum is gone too, with the pedal. A real tank always imposes some extra hum and noise. And you can't turn it up to full without risking a squeal and ugly feedback even at low to moderate levels.

At least, it's better than the one that comes with the VK. A full length Accutronics reverb would probably do better, but I don't know how to fit it in the back, and all other impedance and levels may mismatch.

At a fraction of a cost of a pedal? ...hmmmm. I don't know of anyone replacing the default tank with - say - Accutronics. If they use other things, they'll use reverb pedals in the FX loop. However, this is the same that goes with the speaker. They say ANY other speaker is better than the stock. So people buy neo speakers lightweight and put them in, in spite of neos cold and sterile sounds. I did. Much better. So any other reverb - pedal or not - would probably be better.

So I would almost go out on a limb here, and state that most reverb pedals (even second hand ones) are better than the stock reverb tank in VK112. Except Behringers cheapest ones maybe. Second hand reverb pedals can be bought for cheap today. At least at the same price as a brand new Accutronics Spring Reverb Tank.

- - - - -

However, the digital reverb in the NEW series of VK mark II, is a bit of a stretch in good taste IMHO. Digital artifacts can be heard, at almost any setting.
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