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Old 03-16-2015, 02:34 AM   #3881
codyrex97
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New here, hello.

I've been trying to find more colors for the Ibanez GRX20Z's Pickguard (All I could find being Black, White, and White Pearl.

I also couldn't find a custom pickguard maker that makes specifically GRX20Z model guards, but plenty RG models, that look almost exactly the same.

I was wondering if any of the RG guards are identical in design, so that I don't have to drill any extra holes to make it fit.

Thank you in advance for your information.
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Old 03-20-2015, 04:25 AM   #3882
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Another question for you guys. I'm trying to find out what kind of tuners are "best" on an acoustic.
Mine's a Yamaha FD01S and I love the thing so far. Been trying to look up opinions on tuners but haven't found much yet.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-20-2015, 11:11 AM   #3883
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Are the tuners giving you problems?

If not, don't fix it.

Kluson and Grover are both good, I'm not familiar with any of the newer ones, I haven't had to replace a tuner since 1997 when I had to find some old open back ones for my 66 Harmony...

Sorry don't know too much about pickguard sources, the only one I replaced (on my strat) was on sale at a guitar shop. If you have to drill holes, it's not hard, use a very small drill and put some masking tape on it to use as a depth gauge. Mine were all pretty close, I had to fill some of the old holes with toothpicks and put the new screws on the sides of the old holes because they were off center and some of the old holes were wallowed out anyway. Go slow and easy and use tape for a depth gauge, only drill about 3/8 inch deep.
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Old 03-20-2015, 04:18 PM   #3884
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Yeah, no problems with the tuners so far. Just wondering about good brands if I ever do need to replace them. And thanks for the info on that and the pickguard drilling tips!
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Old 03-20-2015, 09:28 PM   #3885
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Should have also mentioned, I have a white metal marker I use, and tape sometimes when I can't find the marker...But then I was a machinist for 8 years and I picked up a few tools most people don't ever need...micrometers, calipers, indicators, brass shim stock, drills, taps, reamers...the metal marker was invaluable in machine work, I've kept a couple on hand ever since. Not sure where to get them, but try a hardware store. White is good because you can see it really well, excellent for marking a depth gauge on a drill bit.
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Old 03-21-2015, 12:03 AM   #3886
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Yeah, been watching lots of videos for working on a guitar and most people seem to use tape, occasionally marker. Several things I'm thinking of doing to the Yamaha mentioned before. Such as, nut and saddle upgrade to bone. Switch white dot inlays for something prettier like pearl. And most importantly get some strap buttons on her. Can't take the weird feeling attaching strap to headstock.

Still unsure which changes I'd like to attempt myself and which would better be left to a professional. Any tips?
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Old 03-21-2015, 07:24 PM   #3887
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Saddle for an acoustic is pretty simple, sand the bottom to get the height you need, drop it in. Nut is a bit more difficult, if you don't have nut slot files take it to a good shop. IF you do it yourself, use just one drop of plain elmer's glue against the vertical surface of the neck, not the base sitting on the headstock. That makes it a whole lot easier to remove if necessary later. Don't even think about super glue. Super Glue is very rarely a good idea on a guitar, most things you want to be easily repaired. Super Glue will rip wood off if you try to remove it. Wood glue too. That's why I use plain white Elmer's for a nut. Tap it with a wood block and it pops off. For the Fender slotted type you have to use a straight punch and drive it out sideways.

I'd leave the inlays alone, that's a lot of serious woodwork, you have to be exact with it, if you leave any lumps or cracks your fingers feel them when playing.

Strap buttons aren't hard, where to put it depends on the type of neck. IF it's a bolt on neck, they are usually bolted to a big wood block inside, like my old Epiphone, you can put a strap peg below the neck into that wood block. For a glued in set neck I put the one in my Takamine on the underside of the neck at the heel. It's out of the way when I play, I checked out several at music stores to see how they were mounted before doing mine. Always mark the drill, you don't want a hole all the way through...

Here's a pretty good youtube for it, I put mine a little further from the fingerboard than he does here. Note his depth gauge on the drill...Mine is about in the middle, almost 2 inches from the fret board. I like it and it works fine, out of the way of my fingers when I play it.



My favorite guitar site with a good article you should read.

http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/repair/acoustic-guitar/strap-button.php

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/GenSetup/StrapButton/strapbutton1.html

The second article has a good picture of peg placement on a bolt on neck.
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Old 03-22-2015, 02:41 AM   #3888
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Haha! I have seen all three of the guides you showed. Been researching strap button jobs (among other things) for like a week. Saw a picture of a cracked heel and wanted to absorb every ounce of information I could find to make sure that I don't do that! Heard about not using super glue too. Reassuring to hear your advice, makes me feel as though I actually have been learning the good information.

I researched as much as possible about Yamaha guitars and it is said that their acoustics have glued necks and not bolted ones, which was nice to find out because I wasn't confident enough to put one in the heel if it was a bolted neck, though I didn't really wanna go about putting it in the bass side of the body next to the heel. Now I feel like it will be an easy job.

As for the inlays, I was questionable about that myself so may not go through with that as a DIY project. Rather have perfect white dots than f***ed up pearl ones.

Thank you again for all your provided information!
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Old 03-23-2015, 12:20 PM   #3889
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Hey, I'm looking to replace the stock tuners on a Hamer XT Standard I bought 8 years ago for 250. (Just mentioning this as a guide to the quality of the stock ones!) Any recommendations for a new set, and is there anything I need to know about replacing tuners?

Thanks
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Old 03-24-2015, 03:27 PM   #3890
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Kluson, Grover and Gotoh all make good tuners.

You need to find out the hole size already in the guitar, opening them up a little more is possible but can result in chipped paint job. Be careful what set you get, they come in 3x3 and 6 on one side.

But why are you replacing them? As far as I know Hamer uses pretty good tuners, and I always stick to the old saying if it ain't broke don't fix it. I wanted to buy a Hamer a few years back, our jobs dropped to nothing and I missed it, the tuners were good ones, Grover I think. I'm still using the cheapo tuners that came stock on my Squier Strat, been playing it since 1997. They work great, never had any trouble at all, and I know they are cheap ones. If you string your guitar right you should have no trouble, even the 50 year old open back tuners on my 1966 Harmony still work perfect. The similar open back tuners on my 1950's lap steel still work perfect.

If it's giving you trouble, first find out if it's your stringing method causing it, not the tuners. If you have too many wraps, it takes forever to take all the stretch out. I use no more than 2 wraps, never have any tuning problems at all, even with the cheapest tuners on any of my guitars, and those are 50 and 60 years old...
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Old 03-26-2015, 06:00 AM   #3891
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Hey, I've been thinking of adding an EMG PA-2 preamp to my guitars (I have both active and passive ones) as a way of pushing an overdriven amp rather then use a pedal for it.

Here's my question: since I don't want to drill any more holes in the guitar body, is it possible to switch an existing pot to one with push-pull and use the PA2 that way? (for instance, tone pot being pushed to activate the PA2)

Thanks!
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Old 04-12-2015, 05:22 PM   #3892
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I've heard fret buzz from frets 1-5 is generally remedied with a truss rod adjustment. Is this probably the best way?

All six strings are prone to buzz throughout frets 1-5 so I'm assuming it's not a high fret, and saddle seems fine, only things I could see to fix would be a truss rod adjustment or nut replacement if nut slots are too low. How straight should a neck be?
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:39 PM   #3893
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Omnius - As far as I know, a push pull pot would probably work.

codyrex - Check the nut height. http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/GenSetup/NutAction/nutaction.html

To check neck relief (truss rod adjustment) capo the 1st fret, fret at the 14th. Check distance between top and bottom strings at the 7th fret, should be .010" to .015" as a general rule.

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/GenSetup/TrussRods/TrussRodAdj/tradj.html
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Old 04-12-2015, 10:21 PM   #3894
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So both tests came up with bad results; there is a microscopic amount of space between the string and fret on both tests. Definitely too low. Not sure if I should attempt to work through this myself or rely on a luthier to do the job for me.

By the way, Pete I drilled into her and put on the strap button a little while after our talk. Came out lookin' good! If I do say so myself.
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:15 PM   #3895
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That looks like about where mine is. Looks good.

I'm not sure what to think, I guess first thing I would do is try a truss rod adjustment, chances are better neck relief might cure the fret buzz. If you have miniscule clearance when checking nut height, it might be iffy, but I would try that first. Find where the truss rod nut is, loosen it 1/4 turn, no more, let it sit overnight to settle in. If you still have trouble, do the same, no more than 1/4 turn at a time. Let it settle overnight every time, the wood doesn't just snap into place.

By the time you do two 1/4 turn adjustments, that's usually enough for most of the time, once you have good neck relief, going by what I posted above, if you still have any fret buzz at the first fret or two it will require some work on the nut. You can shim it but a new nut is best, with nut slots cut the right depth.
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Old 04-14-2015, 12:55 AM   #3896
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Sounds like a plan. Meaning to replace plastic nut with bone/tusq eventually so hopefully the truss rod adjustment can alleviate a bit of the buzzing problem until I manage to get that nut replaced.

Thanks for the tips! Keep rockin'!
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Old Yesterday, 05:22 PM   #3897
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arial black3black

Hi there,

I am new to this, have been scouring the internet to find any info on a boxwood electric guitar and have drawn a blank, hence why im here to ask you.
Has anyone ever made a solid bodied electric guitar from boxwood?
Anyone have any idea about if it would be a good or bad guitar tonewood?

The reason im asking instead of just doing it is that its normally a very expensive timber available in tiny logs, and i have recently bought for a brilliant price some very large logs, easily enough to make a strat style guitar. And i just wanted a few more clued up opinions before potentially wasting some lovely timber.

Another thing i am tempted to do is make the centre piece of the guitar from quarter sawn oak, and the two 'wings' from boxwood. I know some guitars are capped with a much denser timber, but what would using something like oak as the centre piece do to the tone?

Cheers

T
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