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Old 01-10-2016, 07:01 PM   #12041
theDogger
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Question

I have a 6262 Non-Infinium and I have a 2x12 cab that I wired 2-8 Ohm speakers direct.

So I can play one speaker or I can connect both speakers.

My question is this, If I connect one speaker than I set the amp to 8 Ohm....

What do I set the amp to if I connect both 8 Ohm speakers? 8 ohm or 4 Ohm?

What can happen if the incorrect Ohm is selected? Speaker damage or Amp damage?
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Old 01-10-2016, 07:27 PM   #12042
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4 ohms if in parallel, 16 if in series.

A small mismatch like 2x is unlikely to damage most amps. With a bugera I wouldn't take the chance. Match them.
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Old 01-11-2016, 01:20 PM   #12043
theDogger
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Ok so if I am wired like this



Then when connecting one speaker set to 8 Ohms
Two speakers at 8 Ohms each I set the amp to 4 Ohms
Both speakers @ 16 Ohms I set the amp at 16 Oms?


thanks
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:12 PM   #12044
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There is no parallel setting on that. If you used two cables you could get 4 ohm if the amp has two parallel outputs but the two speaker input on that (input C) is in series so it's 16 ohms.
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Old 01-11-2016, 08:03 PM   #12045
311ZOSOVHJH
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Can I ask a dumb question theDogger?

Why are you going this? Is there a reason you want to have the ability to run one or both speakers?
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Old 01-12-2016, 04:18 AM   #12046
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I've bought a V55 combo just before Christmas for € 230,00 shipped.
Couldn't be happier, it went a LOT over my expectations actually.
Best budget tube amp money can buy!
I'm just wondering: what I want to play is post-rock, any suggestion about speaker/tube change?
Thanks!
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Old 01-16-2016, 12:45 PM   #12047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 311ZOSOVHJH
Can I ask a dumb question theDogger?

Why are you going this? Is there a reason you want to have the ability to run one or both speakers?



Yes I have several cabs that I have made that all have different speaker combos....allows me to mix and match! Flexibility !

2x12 - WGS Retro 30 - ET65
2x12 - the Wizard - Texas Heat
4x12 - Vintage 30 - g12t-75








Also allows me to play just 1-speaker, 2-speakers, 4-speakers or 6 Speakers

Its no matter anyway the damn Bugera crapped out and I had to return it

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Old 01-16-2016, 12:50 PM   #12048
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well I didn't see the Bugera breaking down being a potentual problem..............


Just messing with you. That sucks

It's probably the molex connector in the amp, that was the 6262 weak link. If you remove the connector and solder the wires instead that fixed 90% of the old issues
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Old 01-17-2016, 10:14 PM   #12049
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I currently can't afford the 1959RR Marshall, and I really want to get that Randy Rhoads Tone, I recently was checking out Plexi alternatives and came across the Bugera 1960 Infinium, it includes the "RR Mod" which is a cascaded guitar input. Is This a good alternative? Im playing through Randy's style gear such as a MXR Distortion + and a MXR Chorus
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Old 01-18-2016, 05:41 PM   #12050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbgnarly
well I didn't see the Bugera breaking down being a potentual problem..............


Just messing with you. That sucks

It's probably the molex connector in the amp, that was the 6262 weak link. If you remove the connector and solder the wires instead that fixed 90% of the old issues


Nope that was already fixed....I was noodling around and after about 1 hrs of playing 3 of the power tubes went bright Orange and I lost all volume.
Doubled checked everything as I just biased the amp. Makes me wonder though because I could only get 27mA max on 6L6 setting so I did what EuroTubes Recommended and switched to the EL34 setting and was able to get 38mA. (70% dissipation)

Quote:
We find that these amps just like the Peavey XXX and JSX amps are hot in the EL34 mode and some are pretty cold in the 6L6 mode. So if you're biasing 6L6's and the bias will not get up above 34mA then adjust it down to about 20mA and put the amp in standby. Then set the bias select switch to the EL34 mode. YES YOU READ RIGHT! We said to put the bias switch into the EL34 mode if the bias will not exceed 34mA with 6L6's or if you just want to run a little higher up to about 40mA. Then switch the amp back into the play mode and the bias will jump up from about 20mA to about 35mA and you will have plenty of adjustment to get even the coldest 6L6's biased properly. This is completely safe to do. The most asked question about this procedure is “do I leave the amp in the EL34 mode after biasing?” The answer is of course YES!


So if my math is correct

455 Plate Volts
25 watts 6L6 dissipation
@ 70%

25/455=0.0549450549450549 * .70=0.0384615384615385

38mA of Dissipation

I shut it down right away and did not smell any thing burning in the amp. Pulled it apart and checked the boards and nothing burned or smelled burned. The Tubes were Ruby's 6L6cg standard, they were so hot you could cook bacon on them. They look OK internally..but what do I know

The next day powered it up and played for about an hour and no tube issues but the amp sounded really bad. Now there was an oscillating hum and the volume would drop and them come back in......so not sure if the output tranny had damage, I swapped some JJ 6L6CG that I had and same issue, powered up ok but volume would cut in and out and humming that was not there before.

Since I was still in the 45 days from MF I sent it back and got a Egnator Vengeance instead.

I ready wanted the 6262 Head to work, They are great sounding when the tubes are biased correctly and you get some good quality tubes in there. Versatile also! Had a great Metallica Back tone dialed in too

Any thoughts?
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Last edited by theDogger : 01-18-2016 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 01-18-2016, 09:03 PM   #12051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theDogger
Nope that was already fixed....I was noodling around and after about 1 hrs of playing 3 of the power tubes went bright Orange and I lost all volume.
Doubled checked everything as I just biased the amp. Makes me wonder though because I could only get 27mA max on 6L6 setting so I did what EuroTubes Recommended and switched to the EL34 setting and was able to get 38mA. (70% dissipation)



So if my math is correct

455 Plate Volts
25 watts 6L6 dissipation
@ 70%

25/455=0.0549450549450549 * .70=0.0384615384615385

38mA of Dissipation

I shut it down right away and did not smell any thing burning in the amp. Pulled it apart and checked the boards and nothing burned or smelled burned. The Tubes were Ruby's 6L6cg standard, they were so hot you could cook bacon on them. They look OK internally..but what do I know

The next day powered it up and played for about an hour and no tube issues but the amp sounded really bad. Now there was an oscillating hum and the volume would drop and them come back in......so not sure if the output tranny had damage, I swapped some JJ 6L6CG that I had and same issue, powered up ok but volume would cut in and out and humming that was not there before.

Since I was still in the 45 days from MF I sent it back and got a Egnator Vengeance instead.

I ready wanted the 6262 Head to work, They are great sounding when the tubes are biased correctly and you get some good quality tubes in there. Versatile also! Had a great Metallica Back tone dialed in too

Any thoughts?


Maybe should have tried another set of tubes before returning it, just to see if one of the power tubes got fckd up. When you lose a power tube, the volume drops like that. I would have just kept the amp in 6l6; ive found that trying to optimize the tube bias doesnt really result in a massive or even moderate improvement in tone (but thats just me). I have two 6262 heads (both non-infinium, one for home and one for practice). I know what you mean- they are AWESOME sounding. I brought mine to my band's debut gig and it absolutely slayed. Cut and sounded better than my friend's JVM.
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Old 01-18-2016, 09:09 PM   #12052
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Exactly and for $200, it's just the cost of a nice pedal.
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Old 01-22-2016, 06:29 AM   #12053
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Would you say there's a Bugera suitable for very heavy metal? And i don't just mean maxing out the distortion, I mean an actual good, all-round heavy distorted sound.
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Old 01-22-2016, 02:28 PM   #12054
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Originally Posted by DragonBE
Would you say there's a Bugera suitable for very heavy metal? And i don't just mean maxing out the distortion, I mean an actual good, all-round heavy distorted sound.


Pretty much every single one of them except the V serie. Question is that do you want a Peavey 6505 clone, Peavey Xxx clone, Peavey Jsx clone or a Mesa Rectifier clone.
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Old 02-07-2016, 12:17 AM   #12055
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Man, the 6262 is pretty sweet and it hasn't required the use of a fire extinguisher after about 7 months of abuse by the neighbors' kids.
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Old 02-09-2016, 02:26 PM   #12056
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I deep fried my G5 please help

I m a stupid
U know why??

Bought my first tube amp G5 from USA. It was a dream come true after 12 years of playing with digital processors.

I brought the amp in Asia and plugged it in 220 volt. Without engaging the fuse. The power supply was set for 110 volt as the amp was from USA. So I fried my first ever real amp.

Adding to my stupidity I lost the fuse that came originally with the amp. Don't ask me how. Please.

If u think I m not stupid enough here is something to prove u wrong.

I installed a regular fuse and gave it power. It made a hum/buzz type sound for a few seconds and went dead. Yes, I deep fried my bugera G5.

I am in Asia now and it's not possible for me to take it to a proper service centre.
But
I have an engineer friend. Works at Sony. We wish to bring this amp from the dead.

Please help us with information. We found very little on the Internet.

Please give us
a damage assessment or damage possibilities.

Any links regarding G5 repair. Service manual.

Any service centre where we can call and discuss.

Information about spare in south Asia or close or online.
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Old 02-14-2016, 11:03 AM   #12057
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6260 212 Infinium Blowing F2 and F3 Fuses

Please stay on point with my thread.
BRAND NEW, Bugera 6260-212 Infinium, There is no warranty, the power used is correct, the speakers are tested and fine, everything leading up to the amp is correct, tested and working. bought as is with #3 tube blown. Both F2 and F3 fuses were blown.
Replaced 6L6's and fuses, tubes power, amp works great, sounds amazing, no scratching, nothing wrong. When shutting down the amp, there is a scratch, and both the F2 and F3 fuses blow again. It never blows the main fuse, just those 2. Nothing is loose in the head, there is no traces of burning, arcing or disconnected parts.

Any help would be much appreciated, I can do some repair, but if I have to take this to the local repair shop, I would like to be armed with some info, and maybe even a schematic of the amp, or any information anybody would be able to supply.

THANKS VERY MUCH!

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Old 02-14-2016, 11:15 AM   #12058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boogierman
Please stay on point with my thread.
BRAND NEW, Bugera 6260-212 Infinium, There is no warranty, the power used is correct, the speakers are tested and fine, everything leading up to the amp is correct, tested and working. bought as is with #3 tube blown. Both F2 and F3 fuses were blown.
Replaced 6L6's and fuses, tubes power, amp works great, sounds amazing, no scratching, nothing wrong. When shutting down the amp, there is a scratch, and both the F2 and F3 fuses blow again. It never blows the main fuse, just those 2. Nothing is loose in the head, there is no traces of burning, arcing or disconnected parts.

Any help would be much appreciated, I can do some repair, but if I have to take this to the local repair shop, I would like to be armed with some info, and maybe even a schematic of the amp, or any information anybody would be able to supply.

THANKS VERY MUCH!

It could be PCB traces that are jacked, or a huge number of other issues. Do you know anyone with electronic repair experience?

How did you buy a new bugera without a warranty? did you not buy from an authorized dealer? I'd contact Bugera and see if they are willing to help you.
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Old 02-14-2016, 11:58 AM   #12059
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Yea, i know a few repair guys, and I bought it off Craigs list for 80 bucks. I figure the speakers are worth that. Its actually Brand New, it was sitting in a closet of a deceased man.
So its off to the repair shop?
Thanks Robb

Last edited by Boogierman : 02-14-2016 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 02-21-2016, 09:31 AM   #12060
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Fixed

Turns out, it was the tubes...Bad tubes

always check the obvious first

BM
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