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Old 04-11-2014, 12:15 AM   #11381
Cap47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 457undead
How would I remove the chassis? Also, will the method of flipping the turn on switch off while the amp is fully on drain the VKs capacitors? Thanks.

Go to the WIKI link below for instructions to drain capacitors and also there is a lot of info for other solutions and mods. Do your research before attempting any repairs! Do not blunder into it!
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Old 04-11-2014, 12:29 AM   #11382
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Originally Posted by 457undead
How would I remove the chassis? Also, will the method of flipping the turn on switch off while the amp is fully on drain the VKs capacitors? Thanks.


Look, I was in your position about a year ago when I first started modding my VK. Before you actually open it up please take the time to very thoroughly educate yourself on how to safely operate within the amp and how to not ruin the amp. Invest in a multimeter (you can get a digital one for 20 dollars on amazon) and learn how to manually drain filter capacitors. If you don't know what that means you are NOT ready. Always work with one hand behind your back until you are 1000% percent certain that those caps are drained- this will prevent electricity from traveling through your heart in most cases.

Do not assume that flipping the stand by switch or on switch will be sufficient. The VK caps are NOT always self draining and the only way to guarantee drainage is to do it manually.

Before going into the amp I'd recommend you familiarize yourself with the look of the board beforehand- this is what my 112 looks like, note that this is heavily modded but should give you an idea: http://imgur.com/a/9v6yC#ZHa2TrZ

As for removing the chassis- when you are ready- remove the codpiece (the metal thing) and peavey logo on the front. Also remove all the knobs and their grounding nuts, as well as the nuts on the input jacks. Then, remove the four long screws on top of the amp. Flip the amp over and remove the two screws keeping the metal chassis secured in place. Also disconnect the reverb pan- if I recall mine was glued on. Some rubbing alcohol or some other solvent can help to loosen it enough that you can get it out. From there, you've gotta remove the tubes (look up how to do this), and you will need to flip the board by removing all the little screws on the board. It takes a little force pulling to pull the board loose but it should come free after you do it.

While you are in there I would also recommend cutting C149 (brightness mod) and R171, which allows the boost to work on the clean channel as well.
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Old 04-11-2014, 02:01 PM   #11383
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Originally Posted by Cap47
Wrong! You will have no problem driving 8 OHMs!


the speakers i have are 16 ohms. are you saying i can use both 16 ohm speakers in a cab with my VK 112?

from what i gathered,If i have two 16 ohm speakers, wiring them in parallel will give me 8ohms right?

is that ok to do with my amp?
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Old 04-11-2014, 03:06 PM   #11384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 457undead
How would I remove the chassis? Also, will the method of flipping the turn on switch off while the amp is fully on drain the VKs capacitors? Thanks.



Basically yes. But in detail what you need to do is have the power tubes running hot so they will drain the caps, cold amp will not. Meaning you have had your Valveking on for few minutes, playing stuff and then you turn it off while leaving Standby on. The hot powertubes will drain the caps. Not all amps work this way but Valveking does. And still you would be wise to double check with multimeter. I even then triple checked with screwdriver, shorting different parts into ground to see if there is sparking which would mean high voltage. Here is a good example.



I barely have the basic idea of electrics but I can solder and I am a general tinkerer at heart (having played with computers, custom builds and cooling systems and so on) and I did not have trouble modding my Valveking. So I do not share the overly cautions ZOMG IT WILL KILL YOU UNLESS YOU ARE PRO sentiments. Not saying they are not true (because it is, the voltage in undrained tube amps is dangerous!) but with basic research and right tools you will be fine. Just remember to double check and always be sure.

Removing the chassis the first time is a pain in the ass because Peavey also added glue into the screws. Not a strong glue and it gives in with a strong hand but I almost stripped a screw because I had to have the screwdriver in bad angle.
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Old 04-11-2014, 06:24 PM   #11385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocketface2112
the speakers i have are 16 ohms. are you saying i can use both 16 ohm speakers in a cab with my VK 112?

from what i gathered,If i have two 16 ohm speakers, wiring them in parallel will give me 8ohms right?

is that ok to do with my amp?

I repeat, 8 OHMS can be driven with VK! That is what you have. Two 16 OHM speakers wired parallel 8 OHM. That is only one range down and well within VK specs. The tubes will work harder which is OK.
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Old 04-12-2014, 03:57 AM   #11386
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This is a stupid question but what does a capacitor look like in a vk 112? Also when I open it up what mods do you thinking should do for 90s rock? It seems that every mod for that amp is for death metal lol.
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Old 04-12-2014, 08:42 AM   #11387
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Yeah, TBH you're probably better off going to a tech.

But, to answer your questions:
Any of the pictures here would be what a capacitor could look like. They have various shapes and sizes, but if I recall correctly they're clearly marked (so it says C149 near the C149 capacitor etc) in the Valveking.

Also, for 90s rock I'd personally reccommend just doing the R100 mod (ie bridging resistor R100 with a bit of solder lead) and slapping in a new speaker (Celestion V30 seems to be popular for any application, on a budget the Warehouse version will do).
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Old 04-12-2014, 05:32 PM   #11388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 457undead
This is a stupid question but what does a capacitor look like in a vk 112? Also when I open it up what mods do you thinking should do for 90s rock? It seems that every mod for that amp is for death metal lol.


I'm not going to tell you to go to a tech but do educate yourself before going in so you don't kill yourself. See the first picture in this album- http://imgur.com/a/9v6yC#ZHa2TrZ the big blue and black electrolytic capacitors are the filter capacitors on the valveking. They can kill you even if you haven't touched them directly, so just make certain you know how to discharge via the power tube sockets or via the big 390 ohm resistor right next to them.

As for mods, the two I suggested are good options. I would also recommend tossing the volume boost switch and adding a JCM mode switch. The JCM mod is a bit trickier to pull off so I wouldn't recommend doing it first. See the wiki for this and other mods!
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Old 04-17-2014, 06:18 PM   #11389
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Anybody out there purchased the latest edition of Valvekings yet? I can foresee updates to the WIKI coming and a need for someone who is interested in making those updates!
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Old 04-18-2014, 09:33 AM   #11390
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Originally Posted by Cap47
Anybody out there purchased the latest edition of Valvekings yet? I can foresee updates to the WIKI coming and a need for someone who is interested in making those updates!


I have been thinking the same thing, I haven 't seen it yet. I'm very curious about how much the circuit was modified from the original. Either way, I don't intend to get out- my plans are to get something like a blackstar HT 5 next.
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Old 04-20-2014, 03:27 PM   #11391
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Same here - While I want to see what the differences are between the two, I'm not planning on splurging on another VK when I've spent plenty of hours and making this one awesome.
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Old Yesterday, 12:39 PM   #11392
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I've played the new VK 112 so far and it does sound and feel very similar maybe a bit better. the design aethetically is similar more convenient actually with relocating some knobs to the front. I have no idea on the guts but am curious myself how much is same/different.
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Old Yesterday, 04:04 PM   #11393
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I changed the original speaker to Celestion G12T Hot 100 (100w, chinese made, but same as the G12T 75). The change was dramatically...


And BTW with that I can make it totally sounds like the Mesa-Boogie's.
The setting:
Gain: full with boost
Bass: 7,3
Middle: 3
Treble: full
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