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Old 11-11-2012, 01:30 PM   #1
Rob_b_543
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Join Date: Aug 2008
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12 String acoustic repair (large pics)

Hey guys, i posted this in GB&C but didn't get any replies, wondering if anyone in here could offer some help?

I have an old Eko Ranger 12 string in need of some tlc

First of all, it needs a new saddle. Because of the design of the bridge on these old Eko guitars , the string comes from the pin to the saddle at an angle, so the saddle has to be slotted. Over the years the outer strings have worn through the slots, pic:



Now pre-slotted saddles don't seem to exist, and i don't have any experience with nut cutting / slotting. Can anyone give some advice as to what saddle i should look at getting and how to slot it/ tools I'll need?

Second it has a 3 piece neck, and the pieces seem to be splitting at the heel



not sure if you'll be able to make it out but the left joint is splitting, can just about fit a nail in there.

Is this something to be hugely worried about/ what can i do about it?

Thanks for any help guys
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:46 PM   #2
deltaten
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Yep...saw this one over there, too. No traction yet?? I'll have a whack at it

The saddle can be replaced with a similar sized piece of any desired material. Bone, Ivorex, whatever. I've never seen a saddle notched like that, so it could be that someone (tried to) lower the action.. or I' m FoS. Some might say to use nut files in the correct sizes. I'd just go with what ever's available in a Swiss-type file or (for finer cuts) a hacksaw blade. Transfer the radius onto the new piece and make it solid )non-notched). Sand/machine to proximal height and try it. If ya gotta file it to locate the (oddly placed)strings, just go easy and as little as possible...BEFORE finishing the height issue.

The neck de-lam *could* be jus the neck; but it appears from the photo that something else is amiss. Look at the bottom corners of the neck joint and see the what appear to be) cracks in the side/end wood? Or is that only scratches in the finish??? MIght indicate that the neck is pulling up...not unusual onna 12 stringer... and THAT is the reason the nut was filed??
The lam cracks?? I'd try an injection of PIC glue first. After that??? WHo knows..a complete de-neck, re-build and assembly??

Best and HTH,
Paul
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:44 PM   #3
Rob_b_543
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Thanks for the input

I'm gna order a saddle and some files tomorrow and see what i can do with it, costs like less than 15 so i don't have to be too worried about messing it up. Also it's made easier because the height of the saddle is adjustable via those screws in the picture, the saddle is basically fitted into an adjustable metal clamp, so i don't need to worry about the height, just getting the radius and notches correct

Those cracks are tiny irl, they were really brought out by the camera flash.
Something that i neglected to mention in that it's actually a bolt on neck (which, along with the weird bridge pin placements, adjustable saddle, and the fact that it has a zero fret makes this a pretty odd guitar). So yeah i can take the neck out to have a look, but i'm worried that with all that change in tension it could get a lot worse.

Despite this though I'm thinking of removing the neck and seeing what happens, and then basically glue and clamp the pieces at the heel (obv. will do all the research into proper methods).
Could also then possibly shim the neck and back off the truss rod a bit, since looking at it the neck has pretty much no relief at the minute. In my reckoning that should make for a more even and lower action?
Or is this a terrible idea? haha

Cheers,
Rob
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:16 AM   #4
Viban
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Are you keeping it in standard tuning? If so for future reference you'll want to keep it in D-C standard and use a capo to put it back to standard.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:59 AM   #5
Rob_b_543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viban
Are you keeping it in standard tuning? If so for future reference you'll want to keep it in D-C standard and use a capo to put it back to standard.


Yeah it's usually in D standard / open Cb
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:26 AM   #6
Rob_b_543
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Just taken the neck off now and it's not looking good, cracks around the screw holes on the neck and also a big one in one of the screw holes on the body :/

will post pics when my housemate gets back with his iphone hah
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Old 11-12-2012, 02:35 PM   #7
Rob_b_543
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First the neck heel, lots of cracks:







and here's the body





I put a clamp on the body crack just to check it, and it closes up fine, so that one shouldn't be too difficult.

The neck is looking a little more difficult though because of all the separate cracks. I guess careful placement of about 3 clamps should be able to close it all up though.
Anyone got anything to chip in?
I know i should really take it to a professional, but the guitar only cost me like 40 in the first place, and I also want to take the opportunity to learn everything i can about repair etc.
Doing lots of reading up on the correct processes for it all atm, but if anybody wants to contribute i would greatly appreciate it
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:21 PM   #8
Rob_b_543
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bought a couple of G-clamps and sandpaper, titebond and saddle blank are in the post!
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Old 11-15-2012, 02:10 PM   #9
deltaten
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The neck not having relief *could* be from not having (much) tension for a while. Seems these old horses get a bit outta line after some time and end up with waaaaay much string/fretboard gap. Lowering the saddle was/is the std method. Now ya have the neck off. mebbe a slight shimming to re-level it to the new, maximun adj. height, then string it and see where yer at?? Ya can always lower the (newly set) saddle down ta if ya end up hi...like before
The cracks might be glue-able. Like ya said..some glue and clamps will sort it.
Best o'luck
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:09 AM   #10
Rob_b_543
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Yeah i'm gna have a go at it
I've glued the crack on the body, let it dry for 48hrs and it's looking good now. I've ordered some syringes for the neck cracks though as they're far too small to get glue in without. I kinda wish i'd had some for the body, but it worked okay just prying it apart slightly and using a pick to push the glue in.
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Old 11-23-2012, 10:03 AM   #11
Rob_b_543
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Okay neck is now glued and dried, the glue was too thick for the syringe to pick up properly so it was kinda awkward, hopefully it will be strong enough.

Unfortunately, the neck has really thick lacquer on it, and when prying the cracks slightly it chipped off around them:



Should i leave it alone or should i fill them with superglue and sand it when dry? I'm thinking the superglue could help to seal any tiny gaps that the titebond didn't too.
Good or bad idea?
Cheers for all the help so far
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:39 PM   #12
deltaten
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If it's lacquer...stick w/lacquer. If it poly, the super glue will do OK.
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Old 11-24-2012, 05:36 AM   #13
Rob_b_543
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hmm, i was using lacquer as a general term and i actually have no idea what it is. Any way of finding out?

Last edited by Rob_b_543 : 11-24-2012 at 05:49 AM.
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