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Old 01-19-2014, 03:41 PM   #3821
Invader Jim
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Depends on how dark you want it.
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I can't imagine a hand made Russian spec Big Muff would be that desirable. Maybe I'll just use both and crush people with my epic russian gain penis.
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Old 01-19-2014, 03:51 PM   #3822
Cing Krimson
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Ok thanks!
Edit: one more thing, is a clear lacquer required to protect it and get it a bit glossy, or will the stain itself be ok to polish?

Last edited by Cing Krimson : 01-19-2014 at 04:40 PM.
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:40 PM   #3823
maninthetan
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How much should I spend on a neck? And are Warmoth necks any good?
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Old 01-29-2014, 05:37 PM   #3824
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How ever much you spend on a neck is up to you $100 will get you a fine neck but you could obviously go more if you had the desire. and from what I hear warmoth is great.



My own question: I just De-fretted a bass with a rosewood board. Sanding has obviously removed some luster and sex apeal from the neck and I do plan on getting some oil on there eventually, but for the time being would playing on that unfinished finger board do any harm? Like, finger oil nastiness or anything?
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:26 AM   #3825
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What do you use to clean the bare wood of the guitar? I've heard naptha is great for the job to remove oils and dirt etc, but it's difficult to get hold of in the UK (I can't find it anywhere at least)

Would white spirit or turpentine be good replacements?
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Old 02-01-2014, 03:33 PM   #3826
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Originally Posted by Wingless18
What do you use to clean the bare wood of the guitar? I've heard naptha is great for the job to remove oils and dirt etc, but it's difficult to get hold of in the UK (I can't find it anywhere at least)

Would white spirit or turpentine be good replacements?


you can use zippo fluid/ also known as butane fluid, so ive heard. I use mineral spirits, idk if thats good, but it works for me in low amounts.
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:44 PM   #3827
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Zippo fluid is naphtha. Butane is a gas (when in the can and under pressure it's a liquid) and is totally different. Naphtha is not good for cleaning wood because it leaves a residue and the wood will soak it up like a sponge making it hard to finish.

Denatured alcohol works.
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Originally Posted by Telecaster7
I can't imagine a hand made Russian spec Big Muff would be that desirable. Maybe I'll just use both and crush people with my epic russian gain penis.
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:13 PM   #3828
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Ahhhh I see, thanks a bunch, that's cleared a few questions of mine

One last question <3

Do I need to seal my guitar body before spray painting on it? Or does a can of primer&undercoat act as a sealer?

Thank you for the quick response, much appreciated
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:52 PM   #3829
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If you're painting it a solid color you can just use primer. If you're staining it then you will need sealer if the wood is porous.
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Originally Posted by Telecaster7
I can't imagine a hand made Russian spec Big Muff would be that desirable. Maybe I'll just use both and crush people with my epic russian gain penis.
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Old 02-15-2014, 03:30 PM   #3830
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What can I expect to happen if I use a 2 1/8" spaced tremolo together with a neck that came off a guitar with 2 7/32" string spacing?
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:45 PM   #3831
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more space between the string and the edge of the fretboard and uncomfortable mounting posts.
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Old 02-23-2014, 01:31 AM   #3832
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Originally Posted by nowa90
more space between the string and the edge of the fretboard and uncomfortable mounting posts.

No intonation problems though?
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Old 02-28-2014, 04:11 PM   #3833
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I gots a question!

i got a prs SE 22 im replacing p-ups and gonna put a couple push pull pots. im going to have to widen the holes a bit so im wondering how the best way to do that is? i dont want to ruin the finish or split the wood.

should i put masking tape over the hole and drill in from the finished side toward the back? maybe file it instead? its only 1/4" thickness and gotta widen it just a hair more.
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Old 02-28-2014, 04:19 PM   #3834
nowa90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldTimers
No intonation problems though?

No, unless your bridge's saddles are at a different distance from the posts.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocketface2112
I gots a question!

i got a prs SE 22 im replacing p-ups and gonna put a couple push pull pots. im going to have to widen the holes a bit so im wondering how the best way to do that is? i dont want to ruin the finish or split the wood.

should i put masking tape over the hole and drill in from the finished side toward the back? maybe file it instead? its only 1/4" thickness and gotta widen it just a hair more.

1. Plug the hole with a dowel and drill it to the proper size using a brad point bit

or

2. wrap some sandpaper around a dowel thats a bit smaller then your current hole and sand from there. 120 should be a good grit - not too course and fast enough to see results. Try the pot every 3-5 strokes though for a good fit.

Be sure that you actually need to widen the hole first!
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:43 PM   #3835
Rocketface2112
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alright thanks man. I was mulling it over and decided a drill wasnt the best idea. Think I'll use the dowel and sand paper.. I tried to test fit the pot and it is a tad to small. For the amount of material i need to remove a drill would just bind up and rip it open. Thanks again.
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Old 03-08-2014, 02:56 PM   #3836
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hey hey can i mix active pickup(emg81) with pasive pickup ? can i use this way emg 81 to volume pot 25k with battery soldering and passive tone pot 500k no baterry soldering then to 3 way switch , finally to jack output

will it will work?
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Old 03-09-2014, 07:52 AM   #3837
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I'm in the process of completing my first ever pedal build (Cowther hotcake clone), but I've hit a bit of a snag.

The problem is, the enclosure that I ordered (based off of the parts list) is way to small for me to work in. It fits the board, but it's to tight for me to get my PC mount jacks and pots into.

So I decided to improvise, and use a plastic container that I had lying around. I got it all wire up, but when I plug in, all I get is a loud buzzing. I'm assuming something is messed up with my ground connection where I'm using a plastic container.

How should I ground the pedal? I've read that typically a pedal is grounded through the jacks, since they come into direct contact with enclosure, which is typically metal.

Also, there are 2 ground points on the board that I ordered. One in between the pots, and one on the other side of the board, next to the in, and out. Right now I have all my grounded connections wired to the one ground that is next to the in and out. I'm just wondering if the ground next to the pots is there for me to ground the pots as well?

HERE is a link to the PCB I bought.

EDIT:

Judging by THIS diagram, I think I may have been following a misleading diagram when I wired up the the switch. Could someone confirm if this is the correct way for me to wire a 3PDT switch, with an LED?

I'm at work now, so I wont be able to work on it till later today.
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Old 03-09-2014, 08:21 AM   #3838
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@AZZ

THIS might help you out.
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Old 03-09-2014, 09:36 PM   #3839
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I'm not sure if the question I have fits this category, but it doesn't really fit any other, I think.
Well, kids and guitars, bad mix. And while playing with my tuners, they tensed up the 6th string too much and the nut broke. I've had it glued for a while, and it lasts like that.. but since then there's more fret buzzing.
I'd like to buy a new nut, but I don't see anything fit for my Jackson JS30RR. I know the width 1.11-16"(43mm) nuts for those, but whenever I search it on eBay, i find more specs like height and thickness, and I'm not sure which ones to buy.
Also, I found some for Jackson guitars but they are locking nuts, so I don't think they would fit, or even have any use without fine tuners, right? (remembering that JS30RR has a tune-o-matic brigde).

So, can you guys tell me what to look for, or even show me something, preferably on ebay or if I can go and buy the locking nuts, that I know will fit?
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