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Old 09-02-2014, 09:54 PM   #3861
Baby Joel
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Old 09-07-2014, 03:32 PM   #3862
Will Lane
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On the tele I'm looking to get sometime, I want a white coat of paint. The color is listed as vintage blonde and it looks to be the color I want, but I've seen vintage blonde in the past and it's been more yellow-y. Can anyone confirm that this is white? My computer display might be kind of inferior to detecting any yellow in the picture. I don't want a yellow-white guitar.

I ripped the image from this site: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guit...electric-guitar Sorry if this question is misplaced.
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Old 09-24-2014, 02:21 AM   #3863
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:17 PM   #3864
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Quick question: I'm getting ready to refinish a guitar, and I was wondering if there was a "special" kind of paint/primer I need to use or if any bottle of paint would work...links are bonus, but not needed. Thanks!
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Old 09-29-2014, 04:35 PM   #3865
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Quick question: Replaced the electronics in my first guitar (old ashton beginners guitar), and noticed the pickups don't have screws that moves it up or down. There was something underneath the pickups, (i think it was foam) but I removed the stuff a few years ago. Can I use anything basically to raise the pickups? Can I just use normal foam, or is there a particular something?
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Old 09-30-2014, 02:54 PM   #3866
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Originally Posted by ThePIGI_King
Quick question: I'm getting ready to refinish a guitar, and I was wondering if there was a "special" kind of paint/primer I need to use or if any bottle of paint would work...links are bonus, but not needed. Thanks!


It really depends on the surface. If you're refinishing a guitar that's already been sealed and painted before (and you're using a solid colour), you can just key the surface and then hit it with your colour. You might need an undercoat if you're painting it lighter. You'll need undercoat for sure if you're spraying onto sealed wood with no current colour. You generally won't need a primer, because the surface is already primed with your sealer. Nitrocellulose spray cans are a good start, but make sure you read up on somewhere like Reranch about how to get the best results.
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Old 10-13-2014, 12:28 PM   #3867
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Im looking into building a electric guitar but i dont know what wood to use. i want a warm round tone but i dont know if i should go with a gibson body or strat. Also what wood should i use for the neck and what pick ups.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:22 PM   #3868
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Can I replace the Tremolo Block on a Squire tremolo bridge with a Fender block?

Last edited by loganleunidus : 10-13-2014 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:59 PM   #3869
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I came into access of some tools so I'm finally going to be able to get my build going again after like 2 years.

Problem is I royally ****ed up when doing a test fit of my neck. I cracked the pocket.

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The crack starts at that corner of the neck pocket, flares out downwards, and then runs about 1.5in down the back of the guitar.

Now what I'm thinking is that it may not be a big deal. The tension of the strings on the neck will actually pull the wood upwards, and due to the shape and direction of the crack all the tension will do is close the crack back up. I'm thinking I shouldn't even try to get glue in there as I would have to expand the crack first.

Can I safely get away with this? I feel like it's not as big a deal as it seems.
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Old 11-06-2014, 01:54 AM   #3870
Invader Jim
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Not sure, man. I don't know much about building but it looks like the string tension could snap it right off. I don't really have a reference point for the pic though.
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Old 11-06-2014, 10:59 AM   #3871
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The reason I think it might be okay is because it's shaped like a dovetail joint. For the string tension to snap it off it would have to pull up so hard that it slides left against the top bit.

Maybe I'll find some really thin strong glue and see what I can accomplish with that. I'm just afraid of pulling the pieces apart and expanding the crack.
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Old 11-06-2014, 08:05 PM   #3872
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What if you drilled a few tiny holes along the length of the crack and injected glue in that way?
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Old 11-07-2014, 02:38 AM   #3873
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Wouldnt want to do anything that shows up externally. The mahogany is just going to get clear coated.

I think i'll just stick a piece of wood in there, spread the crack like 1mm, and use some super thin cyanoacrylate glue. And clench my buttcheeks in hopes that I don't make it worse.
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Old 11-07-2014, 02:48 AM   #3874
Invader Jim
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Well the wood was already cracked so I thought "what the hell?" this is why I don't build guitars.
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:34 PM   #3875
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I'm thinking of taking the mid and neck pickups out of my guitar and putting in a new bridge one. Since it'll be an active and the switch is pointless now, would it be feasible to rewire the switch as a power switch for the preamp (to save battery life), and just wire the bridge pup straight to the volume pot? Any pitfalls to be careful of?
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Old 11-13-2014, 08:01 PM   #3876
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Sure, nothing wrong with that. Pitfalls would include hitting it by accident while you're playing
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Old 11-17-2014, 07:08 PM   #3877
Crazyxadamx
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I have a Washburn MG-70 and due to damages I need to replace the neck.

1 - Does anyone make replacements for this model? I don't believe they exist.
2 - If not, what are my other options for replacing it, if any.
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Old 11-18-2014, 04:16 PM   #3878
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I'm attempting to make my own foot switch for my Peavey ultra 112. I've got a schematic from Peavey, and I've got all the parts, I'm just a little confused about wiring the 7-pin din.

As you can see in the pic below, the schematic labels the pins 1-7, going clockwise. The numbers that I've written in with arrows are the numbers that are written next to the pin's on the jack I've bought. Do I wire the pins the way the schematic says regardless, or do I transpose the wires to the way my jack is laid out? There also appears to be a ground tab on top of the jack I've bought.

Thanks!
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Old 12-07-2014, 01:16 PM   #3879
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Would anyone mind taking a quick look over a stripboard layout I sketched out please? This is the first time I've tried designing on stripboard and I just wanted to make sure I've got the right idea and haven't done anything stupid.

It's for this Crash Sync pedal http://www.hollis.co.uk/john/crashsync.jpg
And here's my layout (hopefully legible) http://i.imgur.com/QlXIXls.jpg?1



red.guitar, I'd personally run with what the schematic shows working on the logic that they're representing spacial layout as it's wired in the amp however it could just be laid out for convenience like ICs often are in schematics ( I don't have any experience of using DIN connectors so I have no idea what the convention is). If it doesn't work you can always switch it round, or just label the switches differently? The way I understand it is that the footswitch for each is between the pin and ground, which is what you'd use the ground tab for. Hope that is of use, someone with more experience might be able to clear that up better though.
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