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Old 02-22-2013, 06:24 PM   #21
Freddiez79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaggaraMarine
When you say 10th fret and above I'm thinking of frets 10-24, not frets 1-10 and I was kind of wondering what you were talking about until you said that you meant frets 1-10.

And what's so scary in truss rod adjustment? It's not rocket science to adjust it. And like all adjustments, you need to be careful with it. And many times truss rod needs a bit adjustment. A bit doesn't mean four turns, it means a quarter or a half of a turn. I would check the space between the 12th fret and string when you fret your last and first fret at the same time. There should be some space between the fret and the string. If there's no space, you need to adjust the truss rod. And it's not so dangerous. But if you aren't sure about it, you could take it to somebody who can adjust it without breaking anything. And like all adjustments, it's good to learn how to do it by yourself (unless you need to remove your neck to adjust the truss rod like in my Charvel).



You are right sir. I should have been more clear on that I'm sorry if I confused anyone.
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:24 AM   #22
Duffybear67
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tits and meth at are good ? ??
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:15 PM   #23
LeifEricson
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You should take it to a guitar store, and have them set it up for you.
It takes time and practice to do it yourself, and your probably better off having an expert set it up.
I agree heavily with the person who said to do the truss rod last. That should be used to straighten the neck, not to give you better action. (Who hasn't broken that rule of thumb though, in fact I just did it... rofl)
You can raise/lower the nut, raise/lower the bridge, BEFORE you break out the allen wrench for the truss rod. If the neck looks nearly straight, leave it alone.
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:23 AM   #24
thehikingdude
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Todays news: "Ultimate-Guitar.com becomes AdjustYourTrussRod.com" ;-)
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:26 AM   #25
MaggaraMarine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeifEricson
You should take it to a guitar store, and have them set it up for you.
It takes time and practice to do it yourself, and your probably better off having an expert set it up.
I agree heavily with the person who said to do the truss rod last. That should be used to straighten the neck, not to give you better action. (Who hasn't broken that rule of thumb though, in fact I just did it... rofl)
You can raise/lower the nut, raise/lower the bridge, BEFORE you break out the allen wrench for the truss rod. If the neck looks nearly straight, leave it alone.

You will know if you need to adjust the truss rod. Just look at the space between the low E string and the 12th fret when you press down the first and last fret. Action doesn't matter when you do this measurement (because you press down both your last and first fret). There should be some space. If there isn't, you need to adjust your truss rod. It's so simple and it's not rocket science. You can't have low action if your truss rod isn't properly adjusted. And also, the neck should be slightly bowed, otherwise there wouldn't be any space between the fret and the string when you press your first and last fret down.

I wouldn't raise the bridge too much (maybe a little to see if the buzz goes away, but usually you would get buzz also on your higher frets if too low action was the problem). I had to raise my bridge so much that my action was ridiculously high on my Charvel. The right solution for the problem was truss rod adjustment. Though on my Charvel you need to take the neck off to adjust the truss rod. But luckily the guitar was new and I could just take it to the store I bought it from and they did the adjustment for free.
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