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Old 01-05-2015, 11:33 PM   #6901
Invader Jim
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Well they say that wiring the tone control to the input side of the volume gives it more punch and wiring it to the output side sounds sweeter. Someone on the SD forums compared it to plugging into the high and low inputs, respectively, of an old Fender amp.

I've never experimented with it though so I can't offer an opinion either way. I always take these kinds of claims with a grain of salt.
The Wiring Thread
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Old 01-17-2015, 02:58 PM   #6902
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Originally Posted by Invader Jim
---The Ultimate Wiring Thread---

Read my first posts before asking a question. We are here to HELP you, not do it FOR you. All the info you need is on this page. Unlike 99% of 'Ultimate Thread' starters, I've been active in this thread since the beginning. As such, I have continually updated it with info from certain posts within this thread. This makes the size of the thread irrelevant. If it isn't on the first page, it probably isn't in this thread.

There are links on this page that actually teach you about this stuff (highlighted in red text below). If you learn about the components and how they interact, you can do this stuff for yourself and not have to rely on others.

Ice4600: This thread is for guidance, its not a request thread. You should do the searching since you're the one that benefits from it, not any of us. We're here to help you and give as much explanation as possible, but we don't do the work for you. If you have a diagram, by all means post it and we'll check it for you.

For links to many other great threads, check out the GB&C Central Hub.

I'm gonna keep this about guitar and bass wiring issues. Do not ask for pedal or amp schematics. We're not in that business. If you looked through these first posts and didn't find what you needed and you still have a question, feel free to post it!

It's my belief that if someone is looking for wiring diagrams, the first place they'd look is the website of some well-known manufacturer. Apparently, though, this isn't the case... So here are some helpful websites with plenty of wiring diagrams. I even linked directly to the page so you don't have to search the site.

Seymour Duncan

And here are some other sites that are just chock-full of useful info:
http://music-electronics-forum.com/...read.php?t=2114- This may help out if you have any noise issues you can't resolve.

http://www.audereaudio.com/FAQ_PUNoise.htm- This may help out if you have any noise issues you can't resolve.

http://www.audereaudio.com/FAQ_PUMag_Gnd.htm- This may help out if you have any noise issues you can't resolve.

http://guitarnuts2.proboards45.com/...lay&thread=3159- Mods to the Jimmy Page wiring scheme.

Stew-Mac Info on guitar parts and how they work.

http://www.jpbourgeois.org/guitar/microsbis.htm- Many really interesting passive wiring mods.

http://guitarelectronics.zoovy.com/...iringresources/- Wiring resources.

1728.org- Diagrams of unconventional wiring schemes and how some parts work. (Scroll down to "Electric Guitars")

Guitar Nucleus- Some schemes for a few individual guitars.

GuitarNuts- Lots of useful info.

And let's not forget Google.

COMING SOON: Give me ideas.

NOTICE: This thread is and shall remain a work in progress. If you see something that's not here and should be, tell me and I'll add it in. If you find broken images or dead links, PLEASE PM ME so I can fix them!

Special thanks go to (in no particular order):

For their help. Cheers, guys

how about posting a link or two for pages that deal with the how there are exceptions to humbucker pickups in regards to ohms resistance, or more specifically more information as to if there is a difference in ohms resistance values in regards to type of poles a pickup uses ( dual blade or standard pole type).
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Old 01-21-2015, 08:45 PM   #6903
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Polepiece type doesn't affect the coil resistance of a pickup. The polepieces are nothing more than a way to concentrate the permanent magnet's magnetic field directly under and around the strings.

I'm still working on an article for pickups. This would probably be good info to include.
The Wiring Thread
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Old 01-28-2015, 11:51 AM   #6904
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I have just re-wired my guitar adding a kill switch along the way. Now when i plug it in my signal is barely there and when i do not touch any metal parts there is lots of hum.
I think i've grounded it ok because the hum goes when i touch the guitar. What could this issue be?

I followed this simple diagram ( http://i.stack.imgur.com/1jVDt.gif ) but added a push - to - break switch between the signal from the volume pot to the jack. This works and cuts off the little signal i have but allows the hum through. Is here a better way of wiring this?

Any help will be very useful - thanks!
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Old 01-29-2015, 06:02 AM   #6905
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For a killswitch you want a push-to-make switch. You'd wire it across the signal and ground. Pressing it will short out the guitar, leaving dead silence (any noise still heard while the button is pressed is in the amp or pedal chain). A push-to-break switch will leave the hot wire floating, acting essentially as an antenna for noise and other crap in the airwaves.

Remove the killswitch and try swapping the wires to the jack. The inner circular part is ground, the other lug is hot. Once you get it working, wire in a proper killswitch.
The Wiring Thread

Last edited by Invader Jim : 01-29-2015 at 06:04 AM.
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:08 PM   #6906
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I don't know if this is the right thread for something like this, but I've recently pondered the idea of a passive treble, mid, and bass cut on one guitar, along with a volume. I know all of these can be done passively, and I have seen diagrams of all of these individually, but I was wondering if anyone has done or has even thought of doing something like this. I think that this would be an excellent increase in tone shaping abilities while still keeping the guitar passive.
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:39 PM   #6907
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It usually ends up being a muddy, garbled mess. Passive filters drain signal at each step and a 3-band EQ is a lot to ask from the tiny, high-impedance signal from the pickups. You can try it but there's a reason most EQs are active. It takes a fair bit of tweaking to even make the treble cut on most guitars sound passably good at any setting besides 9 or 10. Multiply that by three, and figure that it actually gets even worse when you stack the effect...bad times.

Try something new

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Old 04-23-2015, 11:07 PM   #6908
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I've got just the schematic, you'd need a les paul or a minimum of two concerntric (stacked) volume pots. I'll admit tone and bass cut together are pretty useless but still it's worth a shot as it's going to cost way less than a new pickup or whatever.

so regular tone - treble cut
fender greasebucket - bass cut
torress engineering mid scoop / boost

put simply you'd use the hot lead (left contact) on a volume to "activate" the tone and mids , the greasebucket you'd do with the wiper (middle contact) to the input jack.

the way I envisioned it was
volume - greasebucket
tone - mids
mids is very useful on guitars though I found, like the contour knob on the marshall mg series was what made me want to do it so much.

so you retain your les paul volume / tone
seems greasebucket you'd use a lot more than the mids
the way I'm doing this is you'd be able to get away with "vintage" wiring for the tone and the mid you can do the same way. From there I've mentioned the superior way to do the greasebucket.

I can get really into this , capacitor values and all or where to buy the parts. But I'll reserve this for if you send me a private message as I'm all for people trying new things.

premier guitar talked about the greasebucket the best way
torres engineering mid scoop is an easy to google thing, half the websites french but the schematics are good

the components you can buy all off one guy off ebay for under 11$ american with free shipping from Thailand. except for this Xicon audio transformer. That your best bet is Mouser. It's the 42TL021 1.5H model you'd need. My biggest tip since you'd have so many components in your guitar is to use lots of heat shrink. Mylar capacitors and all though which are the cheapest are very forgiving though. If you love the circuit I'd suggest paper in oil capacitors though .

Last edited by Tallwood13 : 04-23-2015 at 11:11 PM.
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Old 05-15-2015, 02:16 PM   #6909
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Heyy, i know how to solder and everything im just really struggling to find the correct diagram for this wiring job i need to do.

The pickups are both from what i can tell, lace alumitone deathbuckers

1tone pot, 1volume pot, 3way switch

Not after anything fancy, just that it works
Honestly all i need is a correct diagram to follow and im good to go.
Properly colour coded... On both the pickups in no particular order the wire colours are, orange, white, white/black wrap, and green.

Thanks guys!
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:48 AM   #6910
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Good Evening Gentlemen,
I am a Newbie and ecstatic that I found this particular thread regarding exotic wiring. BTW, I am dead dog tired from working on several guitars and did not see on the forum a "New Thread" option. I also looked for an answer to my wiring question and did not see an answer that dealt with what I desire to attempt. So, please, Mr. Invader Jim and other veterans, I ask that you forgive me if I posted incorrectly, in the incorrect thread area; or, any other screw up I made while composing this first post. I ask the group for a Mulligan and forgiveness. Here is my wiring dilemma. I'm using Artec Tone Mods for the very first time on a personal beat-up, Fender HHH Stratocaster that I built some time ago and plan on giving to my nephew as a gift. I desire to retain the two traditional tone pots "as is", add the two Artec tone Mods (QDD and BCU) as two "stand alone alternative tone pots" AND, if possible, add Volume pots to control each of the three humbucker pickups individually. I know, a weird one. And a "Why in the World" one. I just have one of those wild wiring concepts that we all think about in the middle of the night. All pots would, hopefully, be controlled by an Oak-Grigsby 5 way. I was wondering if I could utilize the bypass positions on the Artec tone mods to allow pass through access to the traditional tone pots - or - ? I beg, on my knees, that a kind soul in the group may have the solution to my out-of-the-box concept. 2 of the humbucker Pups, the Bridge and Neck are a Seymour D and DiMarzio respectively. The middle pup a Seymour D Hot Rail. Truly, I am completely flummoxed re: how to achieve my goal and ask humbly for ideas. Thank you !
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Old 05-19-2015, 03:18 PM   #6911
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artech does make a lot of cool stuff. I was going to supply their parts at one time but I know damn well the local people I deal with are terrified of solder.. it keeps them up at night in fear

ok first question , is it a regular 5 way switch or a super 5 way switch. It's a difference of 8 vs 25-ish contacts.

in the end I can imagine one single master volume and the two artech tone knobs and a 5 way in the right?

if I was to do this without drilling a hole in a pickguard I'd add a push pull for the volume and when i pull up it would bypass or activate the two active tone pots. You would get to use both of those effects at the same time no matter what pickup selection is the main pro to this too. So how you would go about doing this with a regular 5 way selector is on the second pole that you had the tone pots soldered to you would connect 1/3/5 together and then have the hot lead from each pickup going to those 1/3/5.

just make sure to use a stereo input jack and have a 9v battery to make everything work.

so sort of like this , minus the push pull of course. The one in this custom diagram I did does something else called the 7 way mod like david gilmour (pink floyd) uses on his black strat. Focus on the bottom right three contacts of the selector for the switch to have master control over both pots

Last edited by Tallwood13 : 05-19-2015 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 05-22-2015, 01:18 PM   #6912
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First, thanks for answering, I've been rattling this around my head and wish I would have bought an Oaks Grigsby Super instead of the Regular. But, my nephew is 13 and I kept on thinking all that on Super would confuse and just frustrate him. I did come to the same conclusion on the push pull pot and I love your idea of using the grease bucket mod. Thank you Thank you THANK YOU for the awesome diagram WITH the caps, etc. I did not even think of this configuration; however, to tell you the truth, I rarely work on Strats. My nephew is wanting a Strat so that's why I'm building it as a gift. I'm going to follow your diagram exactly as is and will let you know how it turns out. I fear no solder !! Like your Avatar ! Go Spidey !! Not liking Marvel killing off the 616 Universe, hard to see them being croaked one by one; but, I trust the braintrust that is Marvel. Hopefully, it will be a good thing. Sorry to go off on tangent !
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Old 05-22-2015, 02:35 PM   #6913
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I was inspecting the diagram you sent and hate to ask another question; but, given this is an HHH Strat, wouldn't I be using .22 caps? I planned on using a .22 Orange drop, a .22 630V K40y9 Oil in Paper' and, another .22 630V PIO (I was toying with the idea of using one of Underdrive Caps on the Artec QDD Distortion Pot to give it a little more oomph, but, I've canned that idea http://www.ebay.com/itm/Guitar-Part...=item2c9a385cc1 ).

So, on your great diagram you kindly did for me, I see the .1 rainbow cap, the .47 cap and the.22 cap. Do I need to stick with that? You can tell I've been around too many Gibson's, Ibanez's and Gretsch's!! I also was going to put a treble bleed on the volume pot because I always do (habit).

I really hate to bother you again and promise this will be my last "pester" question. Again, it's a triple humbucker Strat I'm building, running on 500K pots. I was planning on the Orange Drop and the two PIO's; BUT, if you think I should use the same .1,.22,.47 caps that you have in the diagram, I can do that. Just want to be sure because like I said, it's been an looooong time since I've wired a Strat.

I really really appreciate your help. God Bless and God Bless Spiderman !!
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Old 05-22-2015, 03:30 PM   #6914
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capacitor value for a tone you can use whatever you want if it's a basic tone knob that cuts treble. The easy way to look at capacitance for tone capacitors is the larger the value the larger amount of treble you're cutting as a tone knob. So you can use
0.01 (Eric clapton apparently liked this a lot)
0.1uf (1960s fender) - since the number is very close to the decimal this a much stronger cut of treble

Interesting fact with tone knobs it all comes down to resistance. 10 is say 500k, 5 on a linear pot is 250k and 0 is 0k. Why I'm bringing this up is with larger valued capacitors you can turn the tone down say 50% and get the sound of say a 0.022uf out of a 0.047uf capacitor roughly. Same can be said about guitar volumes because the lower the resistance the darker and warmer the sound.

for that diagram the rainbow looking thing is a bass cut modification fender made. It's called a resistor which are next to nothing in price. But why I showed you the diagram was to show you how the selector was soldered at the 1/3/5 on the second pole. What that does is allows you to use two different tone potentiometers doing two different things. Sort of like this diagram I used on my strats. I wanted a treble and bass cut so the guitars could do two different things as I'm not a fan of traditional strat wiring at all.

send me a photo of your guitar in a private message and I'll see what I can do just to visualize it a bit better. But yeah feel free to ask any questions, I'm here to help.

yeah good idea to go with the basic 5 way switch, if it's our own guitars by all means to put the more complicated one in.
parts wise everything can be bought off of tayda2009 (ebay seller) for under 5$ , unless there is a good electronics store nearby. you need a ..
4.7k resistor , 1/4 watt - these are not polarized so solder them in either way
0.022uf capacitor x2 (one for the basic tone if you plan to keep it at 0.022uf)
0.1uf capacitor

push pull pots are pretty cheap on ebay too, but if you can get a CTS or Dimarzio one for a few dollars more locally by all means. For tone knobs no matter what we go with linear is a must (B500k lets say) , the B means it's a more equal amount of resistance dropping so it'll sound smoother. In fact you can use linear on your volume too.

oh and this is a video showcasing a very similar diagram. He's not my kind of player but very bright. You may like the idea of this harness minus of course the fact my diagram has the "7 way mod" to turn on the outer 2 pickups or all 3 which strats cannot do.

oddly enough for my avatar it's this youtube series where it's like the worlds worst cartoon yet for some reason I find it funny. It's called "Spodermen" spelled that way.

anyways this is the 2 band eq in action. for a metal player i like the bass cut a lot.

Last edited by Tallwood13 : 05-22-2015 at 03:40 PM.
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Old 05-22-2015, 08:55 PM   #6915
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Okay, this is all starting to gel in me noggin' Already have the push/pull = a Bourns (that's my fav brand) - got the CTS B500's, got the .022's. Need the 4.7 1/4 watt (I did not even notice the 4.7 next to it!! duh). I've got a spare Bradley 4.7 but I think they're 2 watt 5%? So, I'll need to get a cheap 1/4 watt; and, I found a .1uf cap in my parts drawer. Yahoo !! Amazing the stuf we accumulate doing these things. Spoderman, I've got to check that out. My son always send me the old Spidey Meme's, they are hilarious. I think I'm good to go. I still have to finish the fretting and the paint. Got the 9 volt compartments routed for the Artec's. I decided to "go" with the black lidded battery boxes in the rear given he's 13, He can just flip the lids and pop a new battery in when needed. Funny thing is I'm putting the BCU in because it is similar in sound to Clapton mods. I've got other Artecs in my parts drawer, the EX3, an EXP and a VTC. Definitely want to put the QDD in, now you got me thinking if I should dump the BCU for VTC mod?
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Old 05-22-2015, 10:04 PM   #6916
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I wonder if it would work for the 2w one, I've got a drawer full of 1/4w and maybe a small pack of 1/2w. The exact ones used are metal film 1/4 ones that are easily found on ebay.

yeah 5 or so years experience for me in regards to wiring and it's an every day thing at this point. It's all about who we surround ourselves around right? Good idea with the battery compartment that flips the lid. Schecters and all have it and it's convenient. I remember when I first got into guitar about 10 years ago I swear every guitar you had to open the control cavities to put 9v batteries in.

very nice about the EX3 and so forth mods, Eric Claptons mid boost mod I heard he would use that and roll the tone to 0 (with a 0.01uf capacitor) to get his woman tone. I am not sure how true it is but there is a mids mod I put together a few days ago on a custom harness. It uses a modification called the torres mid scoop / boost. It's passive and like everything else I've mentioned very affordable.

here's a schematic on that as well. All resistors are 1/4w as far as I know. I'm putting this in a BC Rich to try. The 42TL021 audio transformer is on mousers website. It's an electronics store across the globe to check out. I got 5 of them in last week and the box was massive yet the parcel fit in my hand haha.

the credit to this goes to Torres engineering. I just made it more easier for people who have never worked with audio transformers to make this happen as I had to google a lot to make this happen and put everything in one place for people.
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Old Yesterday, 01:03 PM   #6917
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Hey Tallwood,
I remember seeing a variation of the scoop/boost diagram above. However, this one is clener, if you know what I mean. Have you tried any of the Artec mods? I like them quite a bit; especially,the BCU mod. I like it better than the traditional Clapton Citcuit; but, I want to try the Torres engineering one you posted - in the future though. I think you would like the range of the Artec BCU. It's great for fine tuning when your scraping around the "mids".
BTW, it's nice to meet a fellow soul who's not afraid to be adventurous with mods and wiring. So many traditionalists out there that think it's a sin to push the pedal to the metal on higher end brands. We need traditionalists; but, I'm one of those guys that actively searches for banged up stuff; and, then repairs it. Mix and match, ya kno? I find that process to be immensely fun. I love hot rodding Gretsch, Gibsons, Ibanezes, and now, my first Fender in a long time. I think after I finish my nephew's Strat, I'm going to hot rod a Telecaster. Make a hot rockabilly Tele.

Back to the Strat, it's a '93 body with a '79 neck. Bought them for next to nothing;however, they ieeded repairs. Think the Strat body us Sen. Not sure though. I will send you some pics when it's finished.
Last night, I kept digging in my parts and found a Spraque .1 300v Vitamin Q type. And a no name Green .47 PIO 160v. Have to test them though. They look good, don't remember where or when I got them.
BTW, if you have not tried an Artec mod, there's a guy on ebay, California Guitar, that has great prices. Think I pay around $15 with free shipping for the BCU'S I buy.
Again, thanks for your help.
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Old Today, 02:35 AM   #6918
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Artec I haven't tried yet but I was really tempted to buy them to try them out. I'll put everything else we're saying into a message though as it might be easier for us to talk in private messages.
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