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Old 07-16-2014, 03:22 AM   #11441
MatsEriksson
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Ok, I have now spent days in this 500 page plus to search for one thing more. As well as the wiki page. Didn't find any info on it.

Now, is there a mod or fix that can be applied to stock VK112 that changes the OHM for external cabinets? I mean, a swich which let's you choose between 4,8, and 16.

Or you must change the OT and/or PT out altogether?

The ones on Wiki, are when you change out to webers OTs, and a switch accordingly. I think that as there is one of these on the vk212 I thought it would be an easy mod. I do recognize, that such things must cooperate with OT/PT too so it's not frying anything. But I thought, if there was an easy fix, that would be my next thing. Though not for weight purposes, of course. Ha!

Last edited by MatsEriksson : 07-16-2014 at 03:23 AM.
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Old 07-16-2014, 05:30 PM   #11442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MatsEriksson
Ok, I have now spent days in this 500 page plus to search for one thing more. As well as the wiki page. Didn't find any info on it.

Now, is there a mod or fix that can be applied to stock VK112 that changes the OHM for external cabinets? I mean, a swich which let's you choose between 4,8, and 16.

Or you must change the OT and/or PT out altogether?

The ones on Wiki, are when you change out to webers OTs, and a switch accordingly. I think that as there is one of these on the vk212 I thought it would be an easy mod. I do recognize, that such things must cooperate with OT/PT too so it's not frying anything. But I thought, if there was an easy fix, that would be my next thing. Though not for weight purposes, of course. Ha!

Instructions are in the WIKI for change the OT to one that allows selection of 4, 8, 16 ohm. Just select the VKWIKI link below in my signature area and you will find all kinds of info and mods. Yes there is an AP for that
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Old 07-18-2014, 03:50 PM   #11443
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So I picked up a new amp the other day: VK 112 for $200. I have a bad habit of messing with my gear and think the mods will start on this pretty soon. I have a couple questions about some of these mods:

1. Since there is no bias adjustment and I'm not planning on doing the bias mod, if I wanted to change the preamp tubes would I just buy some 12ax7's and toss them in and I'm done? Anything else I need to know (I've never replaced tubes)
2. I want to do both the Mesa and JCM 800 mod. If I did the JCM mod with a DPDT switch it leaves me with the normal VK distortion and JCM distortion right? Which means if I did the JCM and Mesa mod I'd have a switch to go between the two and eliminate the option for the unaltered VK lead right?

I'm also thinking about converting it to a head and cab. I want to make the grill for the head a sheet of plexiglass and light up the inside with a computer case light kind of like H&K amps. This would probably come a little further down to road though.

Thanks for your help
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:10 PM   #11444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sox0690
So I picked up a new amp the other day: VK 112 for $200. I have a bad habit of messing with my gear and think the mods will start on this pretty soon. I have a couple questions about some of these mods:

1. Since there is no bias adjustment and I'm not planning on doing the bias mod, if I wanted to change the preamp tubes would I just buy some 12ax7's and toss them in and I'm done? Anything else I need to know (I've never replaced tubes)
2. I want to do both the Mesa and JCM 800 mod. If I did the JCM mod with a DPDT switch it leaves me with the normal VK distortion and JCM distortion right? Which means if I did the JCM and Mesa mod I'd have a switch to go between the two and eliminate the option for the unaltered VK lead right?

I'm also thinking about converting it to a head and cab. I want to make the grill for the head a sheet of plexiglass and light up the inside with a computer case light kind of like H&K amps. This would probably come a little further down to road though.

Thanks for your help


Bias adjustment only applies to Power amp tubes (and not even all of them) so yes, you can replace preamp tubes at will.

I don't know if those mods are compatible, I'll leave that for someone with more knowledge.
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:37 PM   #11445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sox0690
So I picked up a new amp the other day: VK 112 for $200. I have a bad habit of messing with my gear and think the mods will start on this pretty soon. I have a couple questions about some of these mods:

1. Since there is no bias adjustment and I'm not planning on doing the bias mod, if I wanted to change the preamp tubes would I just buy some 12ax7's and toss them in and I'm done? Anything else I need to know (I've never replaced tubes)
2. I want to do both the Mesa and JCM 800 mod. If I did the JCM mod with a DPDT switch it leaves me with the normal VK distortion and JCM distortion right? Which means if I did the JCM and Mesa mod I'd have a switch to go between the two and eliminate the option for the unaltered VK lead right?

I'm also thinking about converting it to a head and cab. I want to make the grill for the head a sheet of plexiglass and light up the inside with a computer case light kind of like H&K amps. This would probably come a little further down to road though.

Thanks for your help


1. The other response is correct. You would just plug in the new preamp tubes. You would do the same with the power tubes as well and the amp would be fine, though it's bias is cold.

2. The Mesa and JCM mods are great. However, I would encourage you to do this version of it instead of drilling a hole: http://peavey.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=27933 . This will let you use the volume boost button (pretty useless) to toggle JCM and Mesa modes. And yes, the Mesa mod would replace the "stock" VK channel. You will still be able to get very low gain is you need it between those those modes. Don't expect them to be too different- the JCM mode is a bit lower gain, looser, and more bassy in my experience, while the mesa mode is a big tighter and more aggressive sounding.

*Be careful pulling out BOTH C149 and C117 (as described in 65SG's version of the JCM mod), as this is sometimes too bright for some people- a bit harsh even. My solution to this was to add a 3 way switch with a 1nf cap (stock), a 470pf cap, and no cap so I can switch at a whim depending what I'm looking for*

For a sample of the mesa mod check here: . these clips are ok, but I can get much better. This is the JCM mod with a TS9DX boosting, gain around 3 or 4 https://soundcloud.com/bad-fuzz/forever-man-sound-demo.

You won't miss the original VK lead after a few days. Promise.

3. Can't speak to the head conversion, sorry. Somebody else did a pretty detailed explanation on the VK wiki if I recall correctly.

I'd encourage you to also pull out R171 while you are in there to give yourself a togglable clean boost on the clean channel.
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Last edited by Sadistic sponge : 07-18-2014 at 04:39 PM.
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Old 07-20-2014, 04:05 PM   #11446
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I notice most people here are trying to tighten up their Valveking to make it tighter, clearer, and more "metal", but I want to use the Valveking for the opposite purpose and make it looser and the gain fuzzier for playing stoner rock/doom.

Any tube recommendations to help me get closer to that type of tone? I would be using the new 20 watt VK with EL34s btw.
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:13 PM   #11447
Cap47
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You are the expert then! Not many others here have them yet.
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:22 PM   #11448
Sadistic sponge
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What Cap47 said. I've yet to see a schematic for the VK 2.0 series with the EL34s. The past Vks sounded quite loose and spongy IMO so it's totally possible that things have been tightened up in that department. If any of the mods we make to tighten up the tone were made in the 2.0 circuit you might be able to revert them to VK 1.0 specifications to have better luck.

As for tube recommendations- something pretty high gain that will break up early will be more to your liking, like some chinese 12ax7s.
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Old 07-20-2014, 11:25 PM   #11449
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Would it be worth it to convert the powertubes to a 6V6 to get some sag back, or would it be more trouble than its worth?
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Old 07-20-2014, 11:31 PM   #11450
Sadistic sponge
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Honestly I don't know if that would even be possible. I'm not really qualified to answer sorry. Cap47 might have a better idea.
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Old 07-22-2014, 10:02 AM   #11451
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Fairly sure the conclusion earlier in the thread was it's a bad idea to swap out power tubes for different sizes.
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Old 07-23-2014, 12:23 PM   #11452
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Does anyone know how can i find out when was my VK made? I put new tubes in it, and i bought it used. The tech said it's the 'old' modell because of the texture.
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Old 07-23-2014, 01:08 PM   #11453
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Thanks for the help so far. I think I'm going to start with the Mesa mod and do the other mods later. I've modded pedals before and didn't have to worry about power or voltage rating and wasn't sure if this mattered with amps. These are the components I was planning on getting but I want to make sure it is what I need before I purchase them.

470pf Cap
10k Resistor
47k Resistor

Assuming these are the right components all I have to do is replace them in the right three spots and remove R122. This seems very simple so I wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking anything.
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Old 07-23-2014, 01:26 PM   #11454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sox0690
Thanks for the help so far. I think I'm going to start with the Mesa mod and do the other mods later. I've modded pedals before and didn't have to worry about power or voltage rating and wasn't sure if this mattered with amps. These are the components I was planning on getting but I want to make sure it is what I need before I purchase them.

470pf Cap
10k Resistor
47k Resistor

Assuming these are the right components all I have to do is replace them in the right three spots and remove R122. This seems very simple so I wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking anything.



Its relatively simple mod, bigger problem is taking the amp apart and finding the right parts from the circuit board. Just remember to drain the caps before you do anything so you wont kill yourself. One way is turning the amp on for few minutes 'till the tubes are hot, and then turn the Power switch off but leave the stand-by switch in operating mode so the warm tubes keep draining the caps (still always double check with a multimeter that they really do not contain lethal voltages!!!). Or do it the official way and short the big caps to ground, preferably with a resistor to avoid big ****ing sparks.
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