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Old 12-12-2012, 02:34 AM   #1
SilmerieJaguar
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Help on refinishing/customizing

Hi guys this is my first post. Last year I kinda beat the shit out of my Fernandes Ravelle X and I want to re-do the painting and stuff, does anyone knows how to get a good "Pearl White" finish? and also, I want to remove the studs on the TOM bridge, any advices? Here's a picture of the guitar with primer on:




Hope anyone could help.
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:31 AM   #2
minieme007
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As far as removing the studs goes, just get a claw hammer, put the claw but under the lip of the studs, and put something between the hammer and guitar (actually this might not apply since you're refinishing) and just pry the studs loose. That's how I did it, worked like a charm.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:20 AM   #3
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I think it would be safer for the guitar to use this method if you don't want to chance messing up your guitar with dings from a claw hammer.
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:28 PM   #4
SilmerieJaguar
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That sounds like a good idea, I need to take those studs out so I can put this sweet roller bridge on it.



Do any of you recommend the Graph Tech Black Tusq nut?
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:50 AM   #5
LeviMan_2001
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Neither of those methods are great. The method I use is to drop something down the thimble that is shorter than the the depth of the hole. This thing must be sturdy, a screw head first or something works well. I use an old pole piece from a pickup. Then screw in the post and it pulls out the bushing.
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:58 AM   #6
Speckled_Hen
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Can't help with the studs, but the tusq nut is great.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeviMan_2001
Neither of those methods are great. The method I use is to drop something down the thimble that is shorter than the the depth of the hole. This thing must be sturdy, a screw head first or something works well. I use an old pole piece from a pickup. Then screw in the post and it pulls out the bushing.

This is the best way.
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:03 PM   #8
SilmerieJaguar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeviMan_2001
Neither of those methods are great. The method I use is to drop something down the thimble that is shorter than the the depth of the hole. This thing must be sturdy, a screw head first or something works well. I use an old pole piece from a pickup. Then screw in the post and it pulls out the bushing.


I'm going to try that tomorrow, thank you all, I'll get you the updates as soon I have a few

Any Idea of how to remove the string-thru-body things?
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:13 PM   #9
W4RP1G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilmerieJaguar
I'm going to try that tomorrow, thank you all, I'll get you the updates as soon I have a few

Any Idea of how to remove the string-thru-body things?

I can't tell how big the holes in the string ferrules are, but if you have a nail or something that will fit in there, you can use it to press out the ferrules on the other side.
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:38 PM   #10
sethasaurus
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I did the same job recently - ferrules and bridge bushings. (And a nice black roller bridge too).

You can drop a screw down into the bridge bushing but make sure the point is upwards (With the point down, the screw may just get forced into the wood and split it and not remove the bushing).

The ferrules are pretty easy to get out. I just put a small enough allen key down there and gave them a few taps from either side.

One thing you might want to watch is damage to the finish. If you've sanded back to wood, you're ok. If you still have layers of paint there, under the primer, then it might chip (but then you can fill & sand before painting anyway).

One of my back ferrules came out and took a chip of wood (and nice thick black paint) with it. I managed to superglue that back in so it's not really visible.

Also, when you tap the them back in, use a piece of wood on top of the ferrules. Don't just hit away with the hammer. I cut a piece of paintbrush handle to do the job.

I found the new bridge bushings were a tiny bit big (i.e. not fitting) so I enlarged the hole a little - I was a bit wary of pounding them in and risking a guitar split in half!. They need to be firm but there's no need to be super-tight.
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