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Old 11-30-2015, 12:10 PM   #11601
Will Lane
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Thought I would just mention this...

I was trying to sell my VK so I could get a Vypyr Tube 60. I have not sold it yet, even with a new speaker and Tungsol power tubes at $300 USD. It has been sitting in my office for a month.

Anyway, I thought I would try it and listen to the high gain again. Looking back on it, I thought the cleans were pretty meh and I thought the distortion was meh too. Well, I tried it again with a Klone and I thought it sounded great, or at least good enough to not sell for a same-tier-ish amp.

I think I will make a small board for it with a boost and the RP-155 for effects.
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Old 12-09-2015, 12:19 AM   #11602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krehzeekid
Hi Guys,

My brother plays a VK50 watt combo, and recently it's had an issue: it won't turn on. He's very wary of working on an amp at all, so he's asked me to poke around a little. I'm not hugely familiar with peavey products, but I've done my own amp work for some time.

Anyways, the pilot light comes on, but seemingly nothing else. There's no hum, no rattle, no noise whatsoever going on when the amp get turned on. Just the pilot light. The tubes don't seem to light up at all or anything.

I've checked all 4 fuses, and they appear to be good, and I'm swapping in new tubes later today. That being said, the sudden silence is a bit odd in my experience (I've owned AC30's so im familiar with dead power tubes). I'm hoping this isn't a huge issue, but I'm a bit worried regardless.

Any insights would be much appreciated.
Did you check the fuses with a multimeter or just look at them and assume?
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Old 12-23-2015, 03:17 AM   #11603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krehzeekid
Hi Guys,

My brother plays a VK50 watt combo, and recently it's had an issue: it won't turn on. He's very wary of working on an amp at all, so he's asked me to poke around a little. I'm not hugely familiar with peavey products, but I've done my own amp work for some time.

Anyways, the pilot light comes on, but seemingly nothing else. There's no hum, no rattle, no noise whatsoever going on when the amp get turned on. Just the pilot light. The tubes don't seem to light up at all or anything.

I've checked all 4 fuses, and they appear to be good, and I'm swapping in new tubes later today. That being said, the sudden silence is a bit odd in my experience (I've owned AC30's so im familiar with dead power tubes). I'm hoping this isn't a huge issue, but I'm a bit worried regardless.

Any insights would be much appreciated.


These things are notorious for the jacks...all of them, coming loose from the PCB, you gotta go and resolderer them from time to time. Seem to happen to me alot. And the amp runs pretty cold, so it's kinda hard to tell sometimes if the tubes are lighting up, at least the power tubes.
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:53 PM   #11604
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I have a few questions regarding the original Valveking verses the VK II, both 100 watt heads. Some questions may be dumber than others as I only have a remedial knowledge of tubes.

First question, I noticed that the VKII has a wattage switch in the back to switch form 100W, 25W, and 5W which is a very nice feature since I can reduce the headroom if I want. It seems to me that the VK has a similar feature with the texture knob in the back which can also regulate the wattage (for lack of a better description, I guess), so am I correct on this, or does the texture knob serve a different purpose?

The other question is about the biasing. I know that both models of the Valveking comes stock with 6L6s. From the research I've gathered, EL84s have a little less headroom than 6L6s, so I may explore using these in the future. In the VKI manual, it makes no mention of EL84s. The VKII says that either 6L6s or EL84s can be used, but EL34s would have to be rebiased. Later on in the manual, it states that if I switch power tubes, that it needs to be rebiased. It's kind of an ambiguous statement, but it seems to me that switching between 6L6s or EL84s and replacing them with EL34s would require a rebias, but to switch between 6L6s and EL84s would not. Is this correct?

Also, does anyone know of any features that may put one model over the other? I know that is subjective, but I would like to hear people's opinions on this.
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Old 12-27-2015, 12:01 AM   #11605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nolasludge
I have a few questions regarding the original Valveking verses the VK II, both 100 watt heads. Some questions may be dumber than others as I only have a remedial knowledge of tubes.

First question, I noticed that the VKII has a wattage switch in the back to switch form 100W, 25W, and 5W which is a very nice feature since I can reduce the headroom if I want. It seems to me that the VK has a similar feature with the texture knob in the back which can also regulate the wattage (for lack of a better description, I guess), so am I correct on this, or does the texture knob serve a different purpose?

The other question is about the biasing. I know that both models of the Valveking comes stock with 6L6s. From the research I've gathered, EL84s have a little less headroom than 6L6s, so I may explore using these in the future. In the VKI manual, it makes no mention of EL84s. The VKII says that either 6L6s or EL84s can be used, but EL34s would have to be rebiased. Later on in the manual, it states that if I switch power tubes, that it needs to be rebiased. It's kind of an ambiguous statement, but it seems to me that switching between 6L6s or EL84s and replacing them with EL34s would require a rebias, but to switch between 6L6s and EL84s would not. Is this correct?

Also, does anyone know of any features that may put one model over the other? I know that is subjective, but I would like to hear people's opinions on this.
The texture knob simulates Class A/AB power sections. It does sound a bit like lower power to the ear. I cannot remember exactly how it does it.

Those tubes are not easily interchangable. If you know how it all works exactly you can swap them out but considering how you said you do not know much about tubes, I would not mess with it. If I am correct you can just swap 6l6's in a VK all day without rebiasing. So just do that.
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Old 12-27-2015, 12:15 AM   #11606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nolasludge
I have a few questions regarding the original Valveking verses the VK II, both 100 watt heads. Some questions may be dumber than others as I only have a remedial knowledge of tubes.

First question, I noticed that the VKII has a wattage switch in the back to switch form 100W, 25W, and 5W which is a very nice feature since I can reduce the headroom if I want. It seems to me that the VK has a similar feature with the texture knob in the back which can also regulate the wattage (for lack of a better description, I guess), so am I correct on this, or does the texture knob serve a different purpose?

The other question is about the biasing. I know that both models of the Valveking comes stock with 6L6s. From the research I've gathered, EL84s have a little less headroom than 6L6s, so I may explore using these in the future. In the VKI manual, it makes no mention of EL84s. The VKII says that either 6L6s or EL84s can be used, but EL34s would have to be rebiased. Later on in the manual, it states that if I switch power tubes, that it needs to be rebiased. It's kind of an ambiguous statement, but it seems to me that switching between 6L6s or EL84s and replacing them with EL34s would require a rebias, but to switch between 6L6s and EL84s would not. Is this correct?

Also, does anyone know of any features that may put one model over the other? I know that is subjective, but I would like to hear people's opinions on this.


i am pretty sure you cannot put el34's in. there may be a way by changing a few resistors, but i am not sure if that would even work.

its been several years since i have owed a VK, and i haven't tried the new one, but the texture knob doesn't make a huge difference, but it does do a little bit.

from other amps with power-scaling, it doesn't do a ton at normal volumes. its not bad though.

IMO to make a valveking usable you need to do the dummy jack thing, tubes, a tubescreamer, and a EQ in the loop. (EQ and dummy-jack are top in my book).

the VK is just a mediocre amp. nothing great but it gets the job done.
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Old 12-27-2015, 12:27 AM   #11607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trashedlostfdup
i am pretty sure you cannot put el34's in. there may be a way by changing a few resistors, but i am not sure if that would even work.

its been several years since i have owed a VK, and i haven't tried the new one, but the texture knob doesn't make a huge difference, but it does do a little bit.

from other amps with power-scaling, it doesn't do a ton at normal volumes. its not bad though.

IMO to make a valveking usable you need to do the dummy jack thing, tubes, a tubescreamer, and a EQ in the loop. (EQ and dummy-jack are top in my book).

the VK is just a mediocre amp. nothing great but it gets the job done.
Yeah, the texture knob is kind of a subtle thing. I notice it most when compared to either full or max positions, compared to 12 o'clock. Full and max seem to be the same, 12 gives quite a saggy feel.

+1 to dummy jack, new tubes (especially V1), and a nice cab/speaker swap.
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Old 12-27-2015, 01:14 AM   #11608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trashedlostfdup
i am pretty sure you cannot put el34's in. there may be a way by changing a few resistors, but i am not sure if that would even work.


The VKII 50 and 100 watts can, but it has to be rebiased. I looked at the manual again, and I saw my error. I guess the 20 and 20MH are factory equipped with EL84s, so I'll probably stick with the 6L6s.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 12-27-2015, 02:07 AM   #11609
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noted. like i said, i haven't checked out the VKII, but i don't think you can do it on the old VK.

the one good thing about the first VK is that there is a large wiki on the them with lots of mods and tech info. i would look there for a few minutes.
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Old 12-27-2015, 02:09 PM   #11610
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Yeah, I'm leaning more towards the VKI because there is a large amount of information on them. I was looking through the wiki last night trying to find the answers to my questions, and I found it to be a helpful resource. I play in a metal band, so my Ampeg is great for high gain tones, and even pretty good with classic hard rock tones, but it falls short when it comes to a nice warm blues overdrive, so if I need a little extra help with getting a metal tone, that is fine, as long as I am able to get a decent blues tone as well. I'm not one of those Mesa or 5150 guys who puts their volume at 2 and their gain at 8, haha. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but I've been playing solid state for so long that I plan on pushing the tubes as much as I can get away with, and using the gain knob (and probably an od) to supplement the rest of what I need.
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Old 12-28-2015, 06:04 PM   #11611
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^ Not trying to talk you out of a Valveking. Afterall, this is the Valveking thread. It may or not be obvious that I used to be very active in here when I had mine. But you mentioned something that got me thinking. Most modern amps these days are designed around preamp distortion. Power tube distortion is not really ideal for metal. Just rethink this. If you truly want power tube distortion for your metal then maybe a Valveking (and a whole bunch of other amps on your list) is not really what you should be looking for.
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Old 12-28-2015, 11:02 PM   #11612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 311ZOSOVHJH
^ Not trying to talk you out of a Valveking. Afterall, this is the Valveking thread. It may or not be obvious that I used to be very active in here when I had mine. But you mentioned something that got me thinking. Most modern amps these days are designed around preamp distortion. Power tube distortion is not really ideal for metal. Just rethink this. If you truly want power tube distortion for your metal then maybe a Valveking (and a whole bunch of other amps on your list) is not really what you should be looking for.

I'm not thinking that I can just turn the volume to 10 and then I'm ready to go. I know there will be some dialing in I'll have to do, and with any modern metal-esque tone, the preamp gain is a must. I'm prepared for that, but my ultimate plan for this amp is beyond metal. I just want metal as an option, which I think, with this amp, it is an option. I was just saying that so many metal guitarists use whatever tube amp they prefer, and don't push the tubes at all. I also don't use a whole lot of gain. I use about as little as I can get away with. A lot of people think that you need a ton of gain to play metal, but bands like LoG, Slipknot, and Gojira aren't using nearly as much gain as people think they are. I've heard a lot of people say that Orange amps aren't good for metal, and I think those people are crazy. I've noticed that a lot of people who have a hard time finding the right amp for metal are turning the gain too high and trying to occupy frequencies that guitars aren't designed to occupy by having too much low end and scooping the mids. I say let the bass occupy the low frequencies and the guitar can hold down the mids and highs. A 5 string bass will work wonders for a brutal tone as well.
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Old 01-04-2016, 12:58 PM   #11613
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You can certainly get a tight, modern metal tone out of this amp, but you'll have to work for it beyond a tube swap. Stock, the VK's distortion is kind of loose and grainy. If you're ok with opening up the amp and re-working some things, it's a good, affordable choice.

Have you considered an Ultra? They're cheap and can cover a wide range of styles, including modern metal.
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Old 01-05-2016, 10:15 AM   #11614
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I'm not really trying to get a "modern" metal tone, though. I'm looking for something along the lines of COC, High on Fire, or a Rwake type of tone. Leaning more towards older, sludgie tones. I actually have a friend that has a VK, and I've been messing with that, and I've been getting some decent tones out of it. I think I'm going to go ahead and buy one.
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Old 01-05-2016, 11:55 AM   #11615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nolasludge
I'm not really trying to get a "modern" metal tone, though. I'm looking for something along the lines of COC, High on Fire, or a Rwake type of tone. Leaning more towards older, sludgie tones. I actually have a friend that has a VK, and I've been messing with that, and I've been getting some decent tones out of it. I think I'm going to go ahead and buy one.
If you want sludge I think the VK would be a good fit.
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Old 02-01-2016, 12:27 AM   #11616
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I've been playing a lot more metal recently and have been able to get a pretty decent metal tone out of my VK112 but have been thinking about changing it up. I'm thinking of switching to a Blackstar HT5, Randall RD5, or similar high gain low wattage amp. Is it worth the change? or should I just go for a tube swap for now and save up for a higher end mini head like the mini recto or Mark V?
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Old 02-01-2016, 01:01 AM   #11617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Tonberry
I've been playing a lot more metal recently and have been able to get a pretty decent metal tone out of my VK112 but have been thinking about changing it up. I'm thinking of switching to a Blackstar HT5, Randall RD5, or similar high gain low wattage amp. Is it worth the change? or should I just go for a tube swap for now and save up for a higher end mini head like the mini recto or Mark V?


the low wattage thing may or may not be what you are wanting for practicality.

low wattage amps are NOT necessarily the answer to quiet playing. they are marketing it at "oh look its five watts, so you can get some powertube distortion." yes, that is true, but if you are pushing a 101db speaker with 5 watts, its going to be too loud to be practical. also, modern metal generally does NOT use powertube distortion. it is primarily preamp distortion. also the lower the wattage the less the headroom is available for cleans at high volumes. if you want clean cleans at high volumes, you don't want to run 5 watts.

to further illustrate, my mesa mkiv sounds better at low volumes does my orange dual terror. there are hundreds of examples of similar statements.

having said that, i would recommend another amp over the ones you have listed. peavey JSX' are extremely flexible, sound good quiet and i picked up my head for $320sih with a footswitch.

save up. you will likely be happier. there are tons of amps out there.
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Old 02-01-2016, 09:02 AM   #11618
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The thing I noticed about owning a 5 watt head is that it was too loud for just practicing alone and not quite loud enough to play with a band. I found it pretty useless actually.
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:56 PM   #11619
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hey anyone get loads of noise when a MXR 10 band EQ is activated...

this never used to be a problem, i hadnt played the amp in a few months and when i did the EQ pedal was giving out tons of unwanted noise. its on a isolated power supply so that isnt causing the problem.

its more of a problem on the dirty chanel
its slightly reduced if i turn off the zoom GX multi/fx unit but its still there

any ideas?
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Old 02-20-2016, 10:07 PM   #11620
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^Have you tried it with just the EQ in the loop, nothing else attached at all? Then with the Zoom unit just in the loop, nothing else.
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