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Old 02-28-2015, 02:09 PM   #11541
Will Lane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMaiden76
My VK100 is having some kind of serious issue. Clean channel is fine, dirty channel is super quiet and harsh. It's not any of the tubes as I replaced all the preamp and power tubes
Make sure your t00bs are all properly seated. My V2 wasn't completely pushed in and I had the same issue. Spray some contact cleaner (Deoxit) in there as well.
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Old 03-06-2015, 10:34 PM   #11542
Don Tonberry
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I went to Guitar Center today and saw that the Valveking II 20W combo was marked down to $300 and the 50 combo was at $350. Is there any reason to get rid of my old VK for the new one?
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Old 03-06-2015, 10:45 PM   #11543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Tonberry
I went to Guitar Center today and saw that the Valveking II 20W combo was marked down to $300 and the 50 combo was at $350. Is there any reason to get rid of my old VK for the new one?


if you like the new features then perhaps. it features a couple of options for direct recording that could come in handy. the tube monitor could also come in handy i guess. haven't tried teh 20 watter yet. some say that the drive channel on the new vk is a little better than the old but i haven't put in enough time with the 50 watt combo to really make that call myself.
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Old 03-07-2015, 02:48 AM   #11544
Will Lane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Tonberry
I went to Guitar Center today and saw that the Valveking II 20W combo was marked down to $300 and the 50 combo was at $350. Is there any reason to get rid of my old VK for the new one?


Try it out. I would go for it if the dist was better.
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Old 03-10-2015, 09:55 PM   #11545
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so i got a question, i got a 2x12 combo amp and put my vK112 in the case with 2 16ohm celestions v30 in paralell. what i want to know is how i should connect the speakers.

can i wire it like a 2x12 combo amp or do i have to put in a jack and use the cabinet port in the back?what would be better?
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Old 03-10-2015, 11:31 PM   #11546
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Your imps match, I presume.

Wiring a cab port would probably be the best so that you can interchange the cab with other amps, and it would be easier to take apart.
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Old 03-11-2015, 07:41 AM   #11547
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Ok ill a probly do that then, so if i set it up as a cabinet. What do i do with the speaker wires coming out of the amp? (the ones that were used to connected to the single speaker)
Do i just leave them? I dont want to run the amp without a load

My guess would be to leave them and just always keep the cable in the back connected.. Like a normal amp/cab set up
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirate
The guitar, the only beautiful female that looks better with the top ON haha

Transformice

Last edited by Rocketface2112 : 03-11-2015 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 03-11-2015, 11:04 AM   #11548
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Just leave them, you could put some sort of protectors over the spade ends. But never run the cab without the proper imp load.
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Old 03-11-2015, 05:55 PM   #11549
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Ok great! Thanks for the help. Just one more question

The cabinet i have is a peavey stereo chorus 400. It came with a little tweeker speaker. If i connect that in aswell, It will increase the impudence right? Will my amp still be able to operate fine?

I dont know how many ohms it is.Im sure a google search would help me there but im at work.
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Quote:
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The guitar, the only beautiful female that looks better with the top ON haha

Transformice

Last edited by Rocketface2112 : 03-11-2015 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 03-22-2015, 11:01 AM   #11550
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I have seen the 20 Watt Microhead II at a more than affordable price in the UK (less than half list price). I live in Germany.

I am looking for something with the exact connectivity offered by the micro head, mainly for blues, cleans and jazz. I love the demos for the clean sound. However, the demos I found except one (bad one) give very little idea about the crunch/sustain needed for blues. All the other dirty channel demos are made for Metal/Very hard rock.

Any opinion on using the Valveking Micro Head for blues?

PS: Yes, I know they just came out with a Classic 20 Microhead. But this will be full price at the beginning.

Last edited by turtleland : 03-22-2015 at 11:18 AM.
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Old 03-22-2015, 04:01 PM   #11551
Will Lane
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If the VK micro head shares the fizzy gain structure I've heard from VK's before (and I think it does), then you'll have to do some extra tone shaping with effects.

Potentially, you could set the amp to a light breakup, and warm up the tone with a TS9, set to just slightly mellow. I use the EHX Analogizer (preamp boost + quick analog delay) to warm up/cut the fizz from my VK.

If you don't want to use any out-amp effects, you might want to look elsewhere (which might save you money anyways). But the VK micro head can do it, you just have to be careful.
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Old 03-24-2015, 12:58 AM   #11552
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The MH20 uses EL84 power tubes not the same as the older VKs with 6L6GC tubes. I doubt it is fizzy! Best to try one.
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Old 03-25-2015, 02:16 PM   #11553
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Hello VK thread! I'm trying to solve (what seems to me) a simple problem. How do I get more clean headroom out of my VK212? I've heard swapping the V2 for a 12AT7 helps, but only if I use the lead channel. I never use the lead channel, I run my own pedals.

Then I also hear that using a 12AT7 in a 12AX7 circuit actually gives less headroom because of the internal resistance of the 12AT7 and grid resistance... technical stuff I know nothing about.

If I swapped the 12AX7 in V1 for a 12AT7, I could be pushing the preamp tubes just as hard to match up for the loss of gain, which doesn't solve my problem.

The only non-problematic idea I've come across is to put a Sovtek 12AX7LPS in the V3 position.

Any ideas?
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Old 03-25-2015, 09:59 PM   #11554
Will Lane
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Actually, I have a(nother) idea.

Try a clean boost (squeaky clean boost, no dirt at all) in the effects loop. That will only hit the power amps and speaker.
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Old 03-25-2015, 11:55 PM   #11555
Will Lane
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Okay, so I've finally done that LED swap I mentioned a while back (and I'm not dead). I think some VK's come with a white LED stock with the red jewel, however mine came with the boring red LED.

Opening the amp chassis up is absolutely no fun. The "head" so to speak is quite wedged in between the metal grill plate and the tolex. Also, you have to run the reverb cables out through the guides or take off the guides completely. The speaker clips have to be removed also. Once I had that done and I pried out the chassis, here is what awaited me:

That's the first time I have ever seen amp innards. Quite interesting and intimidating at the same time. I was fairly certain I needed to drain the filter caps (or at least certain that I should do it anyway). It took me a while to find where any sort of leads were to test how much voltage was stored. In fact, all of the lead ends and solder points are on the underside of the circuit board. So I would have to take out all the pots and flip the whole board over just to see the leads. I did find this point that, when connected to a tube socket or whatnot, would give me a reading.


I presume that it is connected to the standby switch, and it regulates the power. If on standby, the power isn't sent through this lead. If it is active, the power is sent. Anyways, I found ratings averaging around 140 volts, probably more if I had known more about the amp or just went from cap - lead to + lead. Those leads might have been present, I just may not have known where to look. I did find a few of the smaller caps that still had visible leads, reading around the same voltages.

I used the tube socket to chassis ground method to drain the caps. I used two 3.9k ohm, 1/2w resistors in series on the end of an alligator clip to probe the socket. The other clip end was clipped to the amp chassis. The resistors didn't seem to heat up at all like I was somewhat expecting. After I had drained them for a moment, I checked the "standby" point to the tube socket and I had a very low voltage rating. I poked the other points and pins to make sure no charges were hiding. I think I did it right?

Now the fun part and what I have went through all this trouble to do. The LED stock is soldered underneath the top side of the board, so to remove it I would either have to flip the board (no fun) or clip the leads and solder the new LED in. You can see which one I chose to do (clipped and soldered). The stock 1w, 1k ohm resistor was more resistance than for the LED I put in. The calculator here: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz suggested that I would need a 680 ohm, 1w resistor to match my LED's specs (3.3v, 25mA). But the stock resistor would still work, the LED just "starves" a bit for power. I would recommend getting a higher-spec LED so that it doesn't starve for power that much and you don't have to change the resistor. My LED was rated at 7k mcd.

And the fruits of my efforts (with a purple/blue jewel):

show
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Last edited by Will Lane : 03-26-2015 at 12:02 AM.
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Old 03-26-2015, 01:54 AM   #11556
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Nice Will! Gotta be happy with that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nick.culliton
How do I get more clean headroom out of my VK212?
A bit surprised by this question. How do you have your texture knob set?
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Old 03-26-2015, 11:38 AM   #11557
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@Will Lane
Might have to try that! I have the Soul Food right now, but with the drive all the way down it's pretty clean.

@Danustar
I have the texture knob set to full-on Class A/B.
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