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Old 12-22-2008, 12:30 PM   #81
bellerophon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjh345
I have a cheap strat copy (cruiser by crafter ) and I'm trying to find a diagram that replaces the tone pots (which I never use- they are always turned fully up) with independent volume controls for each pickup- similar to Gibson guitars. Has anyone actually done this before? cos google comes up with nothing, as do the links at the beginning of the thread

ta in advance
Have a look at the second diagram on this page:

http://www.1728.com/guitar.htm

The 'Gibson' method. Just remove the tone pots from the diagram and connect the SCs to vol pot as shown and the vol pot out to your 5way switch where the SC originally went. The 5way out then goes to the hot on the jack. Let me know if you need any more help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpo
mmhhhh.... I'm loving that wiring... I think I'm going to get two push/pull pots to wire my new GFS pup's.
I've got a GFS Crusader in the post ( ) can't find any info on it other than it's 16k ohms I'm getting an Irongear Hammerhead and then using the series/split/parallel with phasing wiring from SD's site to a 3way.

http://www.seymourduncan.com/suppor...arallel-w-phase

That's going to be a fun wiring job
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Old 12-22-2008, 03:44 PM   #82
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cheers bellerophon for that- another question:

can you use tone pots as volume pots, just by taking off the capacitor? They look basically the same except for that...
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Old 12-22-2008, 04:12 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjh345
can you use tone pots as volume pots, just by taking off the capacitor? They look basically the same except for that...
at a push you could but they're probably linear taper and you're better off getting a logarithmic (or audio) taper. They aren't expensive (under $10 for a push/pull pot).
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Old 12-22-2008, 09:26 PM   #84
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The D and W tapers are quite uncommon. D is 'straght-line' audio taper and Icr what the W taper is, but it's the same as one of the controls in the original Russian Big Muff. The volume and tone controls in my Digi RP-7 Valve are both dual-gang W tapers.

edit: I think the W taper is another name for C (reverse-log).
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:45 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by Invader Jim
So what's the other question? I just see a page of a couple guitars.

If you look at the first guitar, it has four pickups two duncan mini humbuckers and two lacesensors,my question is how did they wire it.
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Old 12-23-2008, 06:16 AM   #86
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@edge11

We'd need to know what switching options they used to know how they wired it up. They could have just put the SD's in series with the Lace sensors on a 3way and the '2 way sound variation' switch could do anything.
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Old 12-23-2008, 10:32 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Invader Jim
The D and W tapers are quite uncommon. D is 'straght-line' audio taper and Icr what the W taper is, but it's the same as one of the controls in the original Russian Big Muff. The volume and tone controls in my Digi RP-7 Valve are both dual-gang W tapers.

edit: I think the W taper is another name for C (reverse-log).


Thanks, Jim!

So, basically any pot would do the trick, but it will not react like Satch's. The changes in volume/tone will be different as you rotate the knob (one will get cranked up earlier, the other later and such)???
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Old 12-23-2008, 05:15 PM   #88
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Warpo: Yeah, but the difference is negligable imho. Unless you have some crazy god-like hearing, it's just tone mojo to me...

edge: I'll have to get back to you. Time's a factor...
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:40 AM   #89
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I didn't want to make a new thread for this. It's an idiot question, but I feel i have to ask it.

I want to put some simple LEDs in a guitar. Probably either 2 or 4 of them. I just need to know what I need t owire them with. Obviously I touch the two wires from the LED to a 9v battery and I get light, but what do I use to extend these? Just normal wire?

Also I wanted to use a switch to turn them/the battery on and off. Possible?
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Old 12-24-2008, 02:38 AM   #90
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I made this diagram a long time ago. Yes, use normal wire. BTW, this'll also go on the front page.



Use w/e values for the resistors you want. Lower value=brighter. Don't go lower than 1k. I fing that 1k is a good value. Everytime I use a 2k2, I barely get anything....

EDIT: More about tapers: It's also worth noting in the US 'A' is log and 'B' is linear, but in EU 'A' is linear and 'B' is log.

'C' (and I think 'W') are reverse-log and 'D' is "straight-line" log.

I've also seen wierd **** like 'G' and 'K'.
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Old 12-24-2008, 03:24 PM   #91
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ALright, I feel like a massive noob, but I am having a lot of trouble deciphering these schematics (specifically the EMG ones). Is there a kind-hearted soul who can draw for me a schematic for the following?:
HSH configuration, using EMG 85 on neck, Fender single coil in middle, and an EMG passive on bridge, with one volume pot and one tone pot, a 5 way selector, and the 18 V mod for the 85.

Sorry, I am just really really confused.
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Old 12-24-2008, 03:35 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Invader Jim
I made this diagram a long time ago. Yes, use normal wire. BTW, this'll also go on the front page.



Use w/e values for the resistors you want. Lower value=brighter. Don't go lower than 1k. I fing that 1k is a good value. Everytime I use a 2k2, I barely get anything....


Alright that makes sense. How many lights should one 9v battery light?
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Old 12-24-2008, 03:49 PM   #93
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@Prisoner5

Have you checked out the faq's on the EMG website? They advise against mixing actives and passives.
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Old 12-24-2008, 04:14 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by bellerophon
@Prisoner5

Have you checked out the faq's on the EMG website? They advise against mixing actives and passives.


Yea, i did, but I got a fairly cheap passive and i dont wanna dish out another 100 for an active immediately. i think their real issue with it was that the volume pot would effect the avtive more, but that doesnt matter much to me.
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Old 12-24-2008, 09:33 PM   #95
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Wiring together actives and passives is a pain in the balls. It requires lots of parts and can get kinda expensive.. So you'll need 1 pot for the passives and 1 for the active, a 3-way switch for the passives and a seperate switch for the active (I'm not sure that'd work for actives though; idk if actives like have the hot grounded like passives).

If you still want a diagram, tell me and give me awhile to draw it up.

Chuck: Not sure. As many as you want, I guess. Probably 10 per battery is a good number.
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Old 12-25-2008, 01:45 AM   #96
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Invader Jim since people ask about mixing Active and passive pickups alot you might want to add this to the first page. It's easier than trying to explain it everytime someone ask about it.

This from EMG's website.
Can I mix EMG's with passive pickups?
It is possible to mix EMG's with passive pickups.
There are three possible wiring configurations; one is better than the other two.

1.Use the high impedance (250K-500K) volume and tone controls.
The problem is that the high impedance controls act more like a switch to the EMG's.
The passive pickups, however, will work fine.
If you have a guitar with two pickups and two volume pots, with a three-way switch, there is another alternative.
Use the 25K pots for the EMG, and the 250K or 500k pots for the passive pickup.
This way you can use one or the other with no adverse affects,
but with the switch in the middle position the passive pickup will have reduced gain and response.

2.Use the low-impedance (25K) volume and tone controls provided with the EMG's.
The problem here is that the passive pickups will suffer a reduction in gain and loss of high-frequency response.

3.This is the best alternative.
Install an EMG-PA-2 on the passive pickups. There are two benefits to doing this.
With the trimpot on the PA-2, you can adjust the gain of the passive pickups to match the EMG's.
The PA-2 acts as an impedance matching device so you can use the low-impedance EMG controls (25K) without affecting the tone
of the passive pickups.
You will also be able to use other EMG accessory circuits such as the SPC, RPC, EXB, EXG, etc.
For this application, we recommend ordering the PA-2 without the switch for easy installation on the inside of a guitar.
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Old 12-25-2008, 12:04 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Invader Jim
Wiring together actives and passives is a pain in the balls. It requires lots of parts and can get kinda expensive.. So you'll need 1 pot for the passives and 1 for the active, a 3-way switch for the passives and a seperate switch for the active (I'm not sure that'd work for actives though; idk if actives like have the hot grounded like passives).

If you still want a diagram, tell me and give me awhile to draw it up.

Chuck: Not sure. As many as you want, I guess. Probably 10 per battery is a good number.



Ah, screw it then. I'll have to dish out a bit more cash and put on another active...damn. In that case, could you give me the wiring diagram, only replace the passive with an active and then show me how to wire it so I could turn the 18v mod on and off for the 85. Thanks.
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Old 12-25-2008, 05:10 PM   #98
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Any body know how to wire an sg double neck
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Old 12-25-2008, 05:36 PM   #99
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Savage: Wire it just like two normal guitars, but instead of running the hot wires from the volume pots to seperate jacks, wire them to a 3-way (or 2-way) switch and to one jack. That should do it.

Prisoner: What are the pups you'll be using?
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Old 12-25-2008, 07:32 PM   #100
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does any one know how to wire a double neck with 4 humbuckers, 3 x 3 way toggle switches, 1 output and 4 pots. I have searched for hours but i cant find anything. If some one can explain this to me and has a easy to follow diagram or instructions.
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