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Old 07-30-2009, 12:09 PM   #81
divinorum69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Copaman
There will be wood pr0n. I can promise you that

I'm gonna go with the SD Jazz in the neck, and I want to go for the Invader in the bridge just for the blink lulz but I don't know yet.


Dont really know if what I am going to say is true:

I think that the difference in outputs will bother you since one pickup is going to sound louder than the other,

The Invader has so much output it can sound distortde, muddy, when played clean
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Old 07-30-2009, 02:25 PM   #82
Copaman
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Yes, the output of the Invader makes it sound distorted when clean, but I rarely ever play cleans with a bridge pickup (or even the two together. I <3 teh neck pickup).

Also, I am going with two tone, two volumes, so can't I just turn the Invader down if it's too loud?

Oh! and 5 pages without any real building? I'm awesome
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Every time I try to pick it up like falling sand,
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:50 PM   #83
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An update without pictures (sorry):

Got the Padauk back from my uncle, all planed and thickness sanded. It looks great, terrific straight grain and some decent figuring... almost like quilted I guess, but it's not stunning. That's what I get for 6.25/bd ft. I'm gonna love finishing it though. Uncle has a crazy old man who does all his finishing for him and he does a great job, I met him today when I went to pick up the body blank. Seems like he wants to teach me alot so that's cool.

Cut the mahogany today as well. I would sand the burns out of it tomorrow, but we are showing the house so I can't until Monday or so, before work. However, it gives me an opportunity to go out to a hardware store and see if they have something that will take the oil off of the gluing surfaces of the cobo. Anyone know if a Lowes or Home Depot would have something that would work?

Got a big paycheck last night, and made some tips the last two nights, which gives me some dough to buy stuff I need. The local guitar shop has the pickups I want, so that's good... might go buy one tomorrow? Quick: buy the SD Jazz, or the SD Custom first? (This is multiple choice - other options: The bridge, and, the Tuners.)
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build 1, finished 1/15/11

Every time I try to pick it up like falling sand,
As fast as I pick it up,
it runs away through my clutching hands.
There's nothing else I can really do...
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Old 08-08-2009, 09:04 PM   #84
oldspice56
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sd custom first
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Old 08-08-2009, 09:10 PM   #85
bv310
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Bridge first. That way you can at least do scale length and all that fun stuff.
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Old 08-08-2009, 09:29 PM   #86
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I think I managed to get enough cash to buy the bridge off the interwebs, get the pup in the shop, AND buy a pit seat for the local blink show (with a bit of string pulling and current-tickets selling) so I gotta figure all that out.

Good news is that wraparounds seem to be cheap.

Is that because they're sheeyit?
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build 1, finished 1/15/11

Every time I try to pick it up like falling sand,
As fast as I pick it up,
it runs away through my clutching hands.
There's nothing else I can really do...
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Old 08-08-2009, 09:34 PM   #87
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They're cheap because they're boring.
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Old 08-08-2009, 09:46 PM   #88
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But they're ok, right?

I mean I could drop the extra dough on a TOM but I don't want to
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build 1, finished 1/15/11

Every time I try to pick it up like falling sand,
As fast as I pick it up,
it runs away through my clutching hands.
There's nothing else I can really do...
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Old 08-08-2009, 09:53 PM   #89
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It'll be fine. A TOM is just more work for nothing.
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Old 08-09-2009, 12:09 PM   #90
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dont know if i am too l8 on the pickups and stuff but i would sudjest the "Dirty Finger" humbucker pickup, u kno the one from the gibson? u did mention the invader pick up but i think the dirty finger one is nicer, or mabey i dont have a clue what i am talking aobut . i would guess that the dirty fingers is more expensive though
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Old 08-10-2009, 10:50 AM   #91
Copaman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE C.J
dont know if i am too l8 on the pickups and stuff but i would sudjest the "Dirty Finger" humbucker pickup, u kno the one from the gibson? u did mention the invader pick up but i think the dirty finger one is nicer, or mabey i dont have a clue what i am talking aobut . i would guess that the dirty fingers is more expensive though


The Dirty Fingers pickup is more expensive and sounds worse IMO. Total waste of moneh.

I'm set on my pups.

I glued the neck together last night... gotta go find the pics and upload them.

EDIT: The obligatory foot shot. Behold, my striped feet! EDIT2: Well, yes they are striped, but you can't really see it. On my left foot a little bit...

First Post of Thread for This Picture
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build 1, finished 1/15/11

Every time I try to pick it up like falling sand,
As fast as I pick it up,
it runs away through my clutching hands.
There's nothing else I can really do...

Last edited by Copaman : 02-28-2010 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:23 PM   #92
THE C.J
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if i were u id run each pickup to a seperate tone and volume nob, its more coplicated but it makes it easier to get diffent sounds, not sure if u were planing on doing that already.
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Old 08-10-2009, 09:39 PM   #93
Copaman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE C.J
if i were u id run each pickup to a seperate tone and volume nob, its more coplicated but it makes it easier to get diffent sounds, not sure if u were planing on doing that already.


Yes I was. 2 Tones, 2 Volumes (One of each for each pup.) and probably a killswitch to go along with the toggle... I was thinking momentary pushbutton, normally closed? My Principals of Engineering teacher got me so confused with NC and NO - anyone care to give a quick lesson?
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build 1, finished 1/15/11

Every time I try to pick it up like falling sand,
As fast as I pick it up,
it runs away through my clutching hands.
There's nothing else I can really do...
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Old 08-10-2009, 10:07 PM   #94
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Looking cool
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Old 08-11-2009, 03:14 AM   #95
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NO(Normally Open) NC( Normally Closed)refers to the switch position. A NO switch means there is no continuity until the switch is pushed. NC means there is a short that opens when the switch is pushed.
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Old 08-11-2009, 10:10 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C/ruel
NO(Normally Open) NC( Normally Closed)refers to the switch position. A NO switch means there is no continuity until the switch is pushed. NC means there is a short that opens when the switch is pushed.


So, if I went with a NO, there would be no signal from the guitar until I pushed the button.

However, if I went with a normally closed, the signal would be interrupted when I press the button.

Amiright?
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build 1, finished 1/15/11

Every time I try to pick it up like falling sand,
As fast as I pick it up,
it runs away through my clutching hands.
There's nothing else I can really do...
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Old 08-11-2009, 01:08 PM   #97
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correct.

Secretly you can wire a killswitch using either though. NC will let the signal pass until you press down on the button, where the signal will be cut. With a NO you wire one lug to a ground so the signal will ground as soon as you press the button and won't be in the circuit otherwise.

NC is a "cleaner" way of doing it though.
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Old 08-11-2009, 02:05 PM   #98
Copaman
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Alright cool, thanks.
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build 1, finished 1/15/11

Every time I try to pick it up like falling sand,
As fast as I pick it up,
it runs away through my clutching hands.
There's nothing else I can really do...
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Old 08-12-2009, 02:54 PM   #99
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OK so I thought I should probably get a parts list together.

Bridge, $28 GFS

Output Jack and Plate, $5 GFS

Pickup Rings, $9 GFS

Wilkinson Tuners, $27 GFS

Wiring Kit, $23 GFS

Knobs, $13 GFS

Graphtech pre-slotted TUSQ nut, $8 Guitar Heads

SD Jazz Neck Pup and SD Custom Bridge Pup both with chrome cover, $95ish each, local guitar shop.

Soldering Iron, $9 RShack

Solder, $4 ish RShack

Drawknife, $40 Traditional Woodworker

Fretboard - eBaying for about $40 -$80 at the moment, depending.

Grand total left to spend: $396-436.

$396 + approx. $44 for the wood: $440. This is my estimated low end.
$480 is my estimated high end.

This is also before I buy anything which I need to finish (hopefully that crazy old man will gimme some nitrocellulose to finish with so I don't have to buy it.)

For that much money, I could get a high-end Epiphone or Fender Standard Strat. However - I will have built my own custom design with woods that some maufacturers deem "Exotic," and the pickups etc. will probably be better than anything I could get in that pricerange stock. Not to mention the gratification of building my own guitar


EDIT: I am not adverse to radius-sanding and inlaying a slotted fretboard blank, but I am very against attempting to fret the thing myself, as I have none of the required tools to do it (not to mention it's possibly the most important part of the fretboard). Anyone know anyone or any company etc which would be willing to fret it for me? Could I just take it to my local shop and have them fret it for me?


EDIT 2: Damn, forgot my truss rod... add like 20 bucks to the total to include my truss rod...
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build 1, finished 1/15/11

Every time I try to pick it up like falling sand,
As fast as I pick it up,
it runs away through my clutching hands.
There's nothing else I can really do...

Last edited by Copaman : 08-12-2009 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 08-12-2009, 03:11 PM   #100
nowa90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Copaman
OK so I thought I should probably get a parts list together.

Bridge, $28 GFS

Output Jack and Plate, $5 GFS

Pickup Rings, $9 GFS

Wilkinson Tuners, $27 GFS

Wiring Kit, $23 GFS

Knobs, $13 GFS

Graphtech pre-slotted TUSQ nut, $8 Guitar Heads

SD Jazz Neck Pup and SD Custom Bridge Pup both with chrome cover, $95ish each, local guitar shop.

Soldering Iron, $9 RShack

Solder, $4 ish RShack

Drawknife, $40 Traditional Woodworker

Fretboard - eBaying for about $40 -$80 at the moment, depending.

Grand total left to spend: $396-436.

$396 + approx. $44 for the wood: $440. This is my estimated low end.
$480 is my estimated high end.

EDIT: I am not adverse to radius-sanding and inlaying a slotted fretboard blank, but I am very against attempting to fret the thing myself, as I have none of the required tools to do it (not to mention it's possibly the most important part of the fretboard). Anyone know anyone or any company etc which would be willing to fret it for me? Could I just take it to my local shop and have them fret it for me?
try luthier near by, and there tutorials.

EDIT 2: Damn, forgot my truss rod... add like 20 bucks to the total to include my truss rod...
get a martin style from stewmac, perfect for the job

hrm, i would NOT get my bridge and tuners from GFS.
fro 40-80 bucks, you can get a pre slotted ebony fboard from stewmac,
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