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Old 08-12-2009, 07:25 PM   #21
matt_p90
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Cheers for the tutorial, this'll come in really useful.

Any tips for judging when a partial or full refret is required over leveling? Is it just a matter of experience?

Last edited by matt_p90 : 08-12-2009 at 07:26 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:34 PM   #22
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If leveling/crowning would take away too much of the fret, then you'd do better to refret. It's not hard to tell. Just look at how deep the ditching is.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:06 PM   #23
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Cedric- I can't believe I forgot to mention checking neck straightness!!! Editing OP now. Thank you!





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Originally Posted by Invader Jim
If leveling/crowning would take away too much of the fret, then you'd do better to refret. It's not hard to tell. Just look at how deep the ditching is.



Your eyes are really deceptive when it comes to this. I always say do the crown and level first-- unless the fret is completely mangled, there's a good chance this will iron the problems out. Plus, what have you got to lose? Just a couple hours of your own time and some elbow grease, really. If it doesn't work out, pursue a refret.
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Old 03-25-2010, 02:03 PM   #24
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Thanks for posting this, it was very helpful. I did the whole thing a few months ago and had a perfect new feel on my Jackson. So I was surprised to see upon inspection today that they are really worn out again already in places that I guess I bend a lot (almost flat with hardly any crown left) and I have a dead note or two when my action is where I like it. I guess about 500 hrs since I did it.
I have to do the whole thing again, could be the last time, so I'll do a refret in the next year or so but was wondering if anyone here used the stainless frets and how much harder is it to do, not so much the refret but the leveling and crowning? Are there special crowning files for stainless?
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:33 AM   #25
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interesting/informative thread. i am still yet to attempt fret work. although for leveling im opting towards using a med to fine grade 2 to 3" wide sharpening stone. or sandpaper on a radius block
3/4" to 1" wide files look a bit scary on fret leveling work to me.
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Old 06-07-2010, 10:01 PM   #26
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I got a quick question...if I level the frets, could I go straight to using this instead of using a triangular file, then start with the sandpaper?
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Old 06-07-2010, 10:07 PM   #27
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Yup. Use the same amount of strokes on each one.
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Old 06-07-2010, 10:27 PM   #28
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I was looking into levelling my frets today, so it's pretty convenient that this thread got bumped up

yay

next time I've got a day off work my squier's gonna get some much needed levelling
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Old 06-07-2010, 10:41 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by metalwarrior40
Yup. Use the same amount of strokes on each one.

Awesome thanks man
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Old 06-26-2010, 07:34 AM   #30
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My new Ibanez has a ton of fret buzz, and I'd like the action to be even lower than it is. I've tried everything and it seems like it's just bad fret work.

The buzz is mainly on the top 3 strings, I can lower the action on the treble strings and get super low, but I hate having an uneven action.

I'd like to try this on my $99 guitar that I don't play which has even worse fret buzz and dead notes when the action is too low.

What's the best way to get the neck completely straight?
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Old 06-26-2010, 08:57 AM   #31
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Get an 18" steel rule and adjust the truss rod until the top of the edge on the fretboard is straight.
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:00 AM   #32
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+1.

Really nice job. How many times can you do this to a guitar? What do you do when there's not enough metal left?
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Old 07-14-2010, 01:33 PM   #33
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that's when you take a soldering iron and a small pair of end nippers with the face ground flush and yank the frets, re-level the fretboard and refret it
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