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Old 08-19-2009, 08:09 AM   #21
Ian hawkins
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Heres my small question.How the hell do I get the p-up switch outta my epi?
The nut on top just won't come undone
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Old 08-19-2009, 10:37 AM   #22
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Hey im looking for Olympic White paint, does any one know where I can get some, I've tried reranch already but they won't ship outside America, Thanks
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Old 08-19-2009, 10:51 AM   #23
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Hey im looking for Olympic White paint, does any one know where I can get some, I've tried reranch already but they won't ship outside America, Thanks

try pm-ing skeetuk or nuthinbuttrubl8, they know more about paint than i. and possible ask in the painting refinishing thread, its stickied.
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:43 AM   #24
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How do I go about securing the template to the body so that it does not slip? My dad has suggested nailing the template down, one nail hole in the neck pocket and one by the pickup area/bridge in an attempt to hide it. I can make my own pick guard if necessary, so that is an option as well.



Double sided tape, or a few screws in the pickup areas which will be routed out later.
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:50 AM   #25
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i'd tape it down, grab a carpenters pencil do and outline and a little fill. bad idea Will?
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:56 AM   #26
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good man Jim, as easy to lock later as it is now, I'd assume.

spokeshave or drawknife?

go!



With a spokeshave, you can set the depth of your cut and you can take off fine shavings..

A drawknife has nothing to control the depth of the cut, and with clumsy usage it could easily gouge into the wood taking a much deeper cut than you wanted.

Spokeshave for me.
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:58 AM   #27
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spokeshave is way more accurate than a drawknife could ever be, even in skilled hands. i rather use a rasp than a drawknife.

spokeshave all the way.
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:58 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by blandguitar
i'd tape it down, grab a carpenters pencil do and outline and a little fill. bad idea Will?


I don't understand what you're getting at. What do you mean by a little fill?
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:04 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Metalhead_28
I don't understand what you're getting at. What do you mean by a little fill?

as in mark the outline with the pencil, and some criss crossing in the center so it sticks out slightly more. would only the outline suffice?
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:06 PM   #30
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outline usually is fine for cutting, but for routing, the template is nearly necessary, cause freehand routing sucks.
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:08 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngusJimiKeith
outline usually is fine for cutting, but for routing, the template is nearly necessary, cause freehand routing sucks.

im not too experienced in woodworking. thanks.
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:08 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blandguitar
as in mark the outline with the pencil, and some criss crossing in the center so it sticks out slightly more. would only the outline suffice?



Well he's talking about fixing the template for flush routing, so the marking is irrelevant I think.

For bandsawing, I mark it with a thick sharpie and try to bandsaw within the thickness of the line. Makes routing to the final shape a lot easier.

And for the record, after bandsawing, I attach my template with screws in the pickup areas.

Last edited by Metalhead_28 : 08-19-2009 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:12 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Metalhead_28
Well he's talking about fixing the template for flush routing, so the marking is irrelevant I think.

For bandsawing, I mark it with a thick sharpie and try to bandsaw within the thickness of the line. Makes routing to the final shape a lot easier.

And for the record, after bandsawing, I attach my template with screws in the pickup areas.

and you direct mount don't you? what do you do with the screw holes?
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:17 PM   #34
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The screws are in the areas that get routed away for pickup cavities.
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:18 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metalhead_28
The screws are in the areas that get routed away for pickup cavities.

? how do you have that style of template? do you route around it? then do the center?
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:19 PM   #36
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Are scarf joints for headstock angles? That's one of my biggest confusions because I see people doing them all the time but I never understand why.
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:19 PM   #37
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Are scarf joints for headstock angles? That's one of my biggest confusions because I see people doing them all the time but I never understand why.

Yes, it is to null the ned of a retainer bar.
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:20 PM   #38
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yes they are indeed for headstock angles.
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Whenever I clean my guitars, my family wonders why it smells so good; I say that I exude a fresh citrus scent from hidden orifices.
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:38 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blandguitar
? how do you have that style of template? do you route around it? then do the center?



I have a template that is only used for cutting the body outline. That's the first thing that gets cut. I use a seperate template for cutting the pickup cavities later.
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:45 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngusJimiKeith
yes they are indeed for headstock angles.


^you're supposed to quote the question in your post, if i read through this right.

and is there any way to patch speaker paper?
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