08-19-2009, 08:09 AM
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#21 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bogan capital of the world
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Heres my small question.How the hell do I get the p-up switch outta my epi?
The nut on top just won't come undone 
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08-19-2009, 10:37 AM
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#22 |
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Winky Winky
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Ireland
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Hey im looking for Olympic White paint, does any one know where I can get some, I've tried reranch already but they won't ship outside America, Thanks
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08-19-2009, 10:51 AM
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#23 | ||
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Retired Posting Machine
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Quote:
try pm-ing skeetuk or nuthinbuttrubl8, they know more about paint than i. and possible ask in the painting refinishing thread, its stickied.
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08-19-2009, 11:43 AM
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#24 | |
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UG Board King
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: KY
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Quote:
Double sided tape, or a few screws in the pickup areas which will be routed out later. |
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08-19-2009, 11:50 AM
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#25 | |
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Retired Posting Machine
Join Date: Feb 2009
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i'd tape it down, grab a carpenters pencil do and outline and a little fill. bad idea Will?
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08-19-2009, 11:56 AM
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#26 | |
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UG Board King
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: KY
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Quote:
With a spokeshave, you can set the depth of your cut and you can take off fine shavings.. A drawknife has nothing to control the depth of the cut, and with clumsy usage it could easily gouge into the wood taking a much deeper cut than you wanted. Spokeshave for me. |
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08-19-2009, 11:58 AM
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#27 | |
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UG's Heavy Blues Guy
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: New Jersey
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spokeshave is way more accurate than a drawknife could ever be, even in skilled hands. i rather use a rasp than a drawknife.
spokeshave all the way.
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08-19-2009, 11:58 AM
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#28 | |
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UG Board King
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: KY
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I don't understand what you're getting at. What do you mean by a little fill? |
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08-19-2009, 12:04 PM
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#29 | ||
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Retired Posting Machine
Join Date: Feb 2009
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as in mark the outline with the pencil, and some criss crossing in the center so it sticks out slightly more. would only the outline suffice?
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08-19-2009, 12:06 PM
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#30 | |
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UG's Heavy Blues Guy
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: New Jersey
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outline usually is fine for cutting, but for routing, the template is nearly necessary, cause freehand routing sucks.
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08-19-2009, 12:08 PM
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#31 | ||
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Retired Posting Machine
Join Date: Feb 2009
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im not too experienced in woodworking. thanks.
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08-19-2009, 12:08 PM
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#32 | |
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UG Board King
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: KY
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Quote:
Well he's talking about fixing the template for flush routing, so the marking is irrelevant I think. For bandsawing, I mark it with a thick sharpie and try to bandsaw within the thickness of the line. Makes routing to the final shape a lot easier. And for the record, after bandsawing, I attach my template with screws in the pickup areas. Last edited by Metalhead_28 : 08-19-2009 at 12:10 PM. |
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08-19-2009, 12:12 PM
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#33 | ||
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Retired Posting Machine
Join Date: Feb 2009
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and you direct mount don't you? what do you do with the screw holes?
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08-19-2009, 12:17 PM
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#34 |
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UG Board King
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: KY
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The screws are in the areas that get routed away for pickup cavities.
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08-19-2009, 12:18 PM
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#35 | ||
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Retired Posting Machine
Join Date: Feb 2009
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? how do you have that style of template? do you route around it? then do the center?
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08-19-2009, 12:19 PM
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#36 |
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UG's turtle enthusiast
Join Date: May 2007
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Are scarf joints for headstock angles? That's one of my biggest confusions because I see people doing them all the time but I never understand why.
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08-19-2009, 12:19 PM
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#37 | ||
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Retired Posting Machine
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Yes, it is to null the ned of a retainer bar.
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08-19-2009, 12:20 PM
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#38 | |
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UG's Heavy Blues Guy
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: New Jersey
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yes they are indeed for headstock angles.
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08-19-2009, 12:38 PM
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#39 | |
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UG Board King
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: KY
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I have a template that is only used for cutting the body outline. That's the first thing that gets cut. I use a seperate template for cutting the pickup cavities later. |
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08-19-2009, 12:45 PM
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#40 | ||
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Registered Sex Offender
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: BOZRAH, Connecticut
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Quote:
^you're supposed to quote the question in your post, if i read through this right. and is there any way to patch speaker paper?
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