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Old 08-22-2009, 12:20 PM   #61
Absent Mind
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Joel this thread should explain the taper well enough

http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/foru...&highlight=plan


You play connect dots with the taper on your plan, and then you can use the plan to make templates of the neck and neck pocket, and then they will be perfect.


The way I make my neck template is to use a piece of MDF that is the size of your scale length, let’s use 25.5" as an example and draw the plan directly onto the MDF...


Get a piece of thin say 1/2" MDF that is say at least 26" long and draw a center line on it.

Draw a perpendicular line at one end and then measure your scale length and draw another perpendicular line, these become your bridge and nut lines at each end of the MDF, now measure the depth of your nut, say 4mm and add that past the nut line so the taper continues into the headstock area (although this template does not include the headstock, it is only the fretboard area).

Put on the E, e strings on the nut and bridge and connect the dots, and measure from the nut to exactly the 24th fret and then add some extra (e.g. 10mm as per my tutorial) and mark on the end of the template/neck), you can now rough cut out the template, cut it off at the line you just drew on that marks the 24th fret + 10 mm and you can now ignore the bridge markings on the MDF they were just there to get the taper right.

Now get a piece of perfectly flat wood that has a long square straight edge (or anything really but wood is good encase you gouge it with the router, in which case you will have to start again but at least you didn’t bust a router bit).

Line the straight edge up against the E string so that it covers it perfectly, and use that as a fence with a template follower bit to route the taper of the E string onto the MDF, do the same for the high e string, and again for the end of the neck line and nut line and you've routed the perfect template by drawing the plan directly onto the MDF.

It’s a good idea to then seal the MDF with super glue and lightly sand through the grits when it’s dry.

Now make a copy onto thick say 1" MDF and keep the 1/2" as a master encase you f**k up the working template, again seal the 1" edges with super glue and flatten.


Then you can use the neck template to make a neck pocket template.

Clamp the neck template to some 1/2" MDF and get your perfectly straight bits of wood out again (you need 3 for this, 1/2" is idea as they need to be thinner than the working neck template of 1"),

You butt the two straight wood up against the template taper edge and clamp it down, then another across the top to butt up against the end of the template/neck and clamp that (because the wood is thinner than the template, the template will rise above the taper pieces and you can accurately clamp the perpendicular piece of wood to the end of the template).

When you then remove the template you get the pocket, it will look something like this

http://www.monaro.com.au/guitars/di...op/DSC_6799.jpg

and then you just route using a template follower bit (you will have to use a bit with a long cutter to reach from the perpendicular piece of wood that bridges over the taper pieces, down to the MDF).

then seal the pocket template as well and make a copy onto thick 1" MDF as a working template and seal that.


I hope that all makes sense, has taken ages to try and explain without pics, I will be writing a tutorial on the templates at some point in the future
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Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

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Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

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Last edited by Absent Mind : 08-22-2009 at 12:23 PM.
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Old 08-22-2009, 05:25 PM   #62
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Would a fretless guitar work just like a fretless bass does?
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Old 08-22-2009, 05:28 PM   #63
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^ for the most part, yes. However, it will sound much more muted than the thicker strings would.
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Old 08-22-2009, 07:17 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by ice condition
i have a few more questions.

would it be practical to build a guitar entirely out of plexiglass? (every wood part made out of plexiglass: fretboard, neck, body)


No. Plexiglass, though fairly cheap, is very temperamental. Ever cut yourself on plexi? Sucks. Plexiglass is also fairly dense, so it probably would kill tone. Try carbon fibre. I know Tempus makes drums out of CF.

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what would really high value caps do to guitar tone? (ie: 2200uF)


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how do you put a battery saving on/off switch onto a pedal. (i tried just cutting the power from one by putting the positive & negative wires together via a DPDT switch but it still died, would a simple on/off toggle work?)


I don't think you can do that. From what I remember, batteries are always outputting a trickle charge, so that's why you never leave Rechargeable batteries in their charger. Just man it up and take it out every time.



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Old 08-22-2009, 11:02 PM   #65
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What does running two amps in stereo mean? lol sorry im still an idiot on some things. Is it like having two amps through one cab that you a/b switch between or is it two amps played at the same time?
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Old 08-22-2009, 11:03 PM   #66
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two played @ the same time.
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Whenever I clean my guitars, my family wonders why it smells so good; I say that I exude a fresh citrus scent from hidden orifices.
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Old 08-22-2009, 11:07 PM   #67
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I'm going to stick this temporarily (until I get a certain other thread made). It seems to be going well.
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Old 08-22-2009, 11:20 PM   #68
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thanks man
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Old 08-22-2009, 11:38 PM   #69
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^if i remember right stereo would be those two amps giving the same output as an amp in mono.

ie: 4x12 at 100w, 8 ohm,

8x12 at 100w, 4 ohm.

EDIT: also, thanks for those answers, the chemist.

i'll check out that carbon fiber stuff.
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:42 AM   #70
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Thanks for the stick, Jim.

==

How much do you guys think it would run me to have my body cut out at a local wood shop? I think they do sanding too, so, add that into the cost.


EDIT: Also, do I route for the truss rod before or after I scarf joint?
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Old 08-23-2009, 11:52 AM   #71
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If you ask them to fit it in when ever they might do it quite cheap, but if they actually have to allocate shop time I guess it could be up to say $30/40 (not too sure on US prices).

Do the truss rod after the scalf joint.
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Old 08-23-2009, 01:02 PM   #72
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I want to build myself a fretless guitar and Epiphone les paul special II has caught my eye. How is it's sustain and how tall are frets?
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Old 08-23-2009, 01:05 PM   #73
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the sustain is okay, its not anything amazing, and the frets are medium height.
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Whenever I clean my guitars, my family wonders why it smells so good; I say that I exude a fresh citrus scent from hidden orifices.
They stopped asking
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Old 08-23-2009, 01:29 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by Absent Mind
If you ask them to fit it in when ever they might do it quite cheap, but if they actually have to allocate shop time I guess it could be up to say $30/40 (not too sure on US prices).

Do the truss rod after the scalf joint.


TBH. im pretty sure it'd be more than that.
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Old 08-23-2009, 03:52 PM   #75
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is there any other tool to use other than a spindle sander to get in between the horns and the neck joint on a strat?
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Old 08-23-2009, 03:55 PM   #76
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sanding wheel on a drill, rounded file, or a round sanding block are a few options there.
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Whenever I clean my guitars, my family wonders why it smells so good; I say that I exude a fresh citrus scent from hidden orifices.
They stopped asking
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Old 08-23-2009, 03:56 PM   #77
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I wrapped sandpaper around a big drill bit and used that. It worked pretty well.
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Old 08-23-2009, 04:00 PM   #78
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^Sounds like something I'd do
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Old 08-23-2009, 04:03 PM   #79
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^and then rip off ur fingernail by doing so

seriously, make sure thats secure if you try it. tape should do it.






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Quote:
Originally Posted by Øttər
Whenever I clean my guitars, my family wonders why it smells so good; I say that I exude a fresh citrus scent from hidden orifices.
They stopped asking
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Old 08-23-2009, 04:45 PM   #80
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I used foam tape circles to hold it on. I wouldn't recommend that route.
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