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Old 05-26-2010, 04:53 PM   #41
-MintSauce-
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It feels awesome when you get that perfect join, right? Wenge is amazing, too. Anyway, it's all looking pretty nifty - steady, solid progress. This may sound condescending/patronising, but a list of stuff to do in order might be a plan. You're probably pretty free at the moment, with the option of working on either the neck or body until it needs to be joined. Some things, like shaping the neck, might be easier without the wings on.

Forgive me for being too lazy to read back... are you using a neck angle on this?
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:12 PM   #42
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Awwww yeah. I'm pretty excited about how the wenge will feel once it's finished.
You're right, I do need to come up with a detailed plan of the order of what needs to be done. Not condescending at all, man. I appreciate the advice.
I had planned on angling the neck, but then I found out I don't have enough material to cut the angle into the neck, so there will be no angle and a recessed bridge.
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Old 05-26-2010, 10:58 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salsawords
Thanks guys.

Sounds cool. Make threads for them. I love seeing people build.

Yeah I used titebond 1. I'm pretty sure it'll be fine, as titebond 1 is pretty much preferred by all luthiers (except for maybe hide glue) as the best wood glue. I'm not too worried about it creeping or anything. As long as it was glued right and it gets finished properly, it should be fine.

Man you got a great deal on that stuff. I totally know what you're saying about being patient for the deals on ebay, but I personally don't like it because I can't see in person what I'm paying money for, and the prices fluctuate so much. I probably would have gotten limba online if I could have found a suitable piece, but unfortunately there wasn't any. If I were you I'd sell that piece of wood you got the offer for and then use that money to buy more wood!


On the glue, I was wondering because most yellow wood glue is not rated for continuous stress / structural applications, & I've been told that under a continuous stress situation, the bond can break down after several years, though I haven't come across any real evidence to support that statement... Titebond is my brand of choice btw... I buy Titebond III by the gallon

I am considering selling that piece to help pay for shipping on the new machinery for my workshop... The guy is supposed to stop by next week to pick up a computer I built for him & I may see if he's still interested.

I'll definitely be posting my builds here & watching this one, can't wait to see the finished guitar

Last edited by chaosdsm : 05-26-2010 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 06-19-2010, 09:36 PM   #44
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Finally some updates.
Let me start off by saying that gluing a scarf joint with an accent piece sucks. Super hard and it took about 5 hours to get it right. It's a 1/2" thick piece of sapelle that had the headstock angle cut into it. Seems simple but without many tools it's very difficult.

Here it is glued up.

Here you can see the accent piece better.

Also hand planed the ebony. I love the color. I'm definitely going to leave it in all its streaky glory.

Parts will cost about $550 including reusable paint and tools.

I also pretty much got down exactly how I'm going to finish it. I'm using stewmac's colortone waterbased lacquer with a satin finish, and grainfiller everywhere except the neck. MMMMMMM.
Things should be progressing faster now.
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Old 06-19-2010, 11:38 PM   #45
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exactly what problems did you face with the accent piece?

I have ideas for decorative scarf joints and would like to know what issues i could run into.
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Old 06-20-2010, 01:45 PM   #46
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Well the way we did is was to take a piece of the right thickness, and then cut the angle into it. It would have been way easier if we had cut the accent piece on the same day as the scarf angle because we had to rebuild the table saw jig, and we didn't get the angle EXACTLY the same as before. That made gluing it up kind of tricky.
We also had difficulty cutting the accent piece to the exact length.
I think if you plan it out very carefully (we didn't) before you start, you should be better off. The reason we didn't is because I'm not familiar with the process and we had to kind of invent our own way of doing it. My dad was also stubborn about how to glue the scarf and refused to use any of the tutorials I showed him. S'all good though.
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Old 06-20-2010, 09:41 PM   #47
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Clamps off.
The join is good. It's a little crooked (maybe by 1/32") but we were expecting it.

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Old 06-20-2010, 10:24 PM   #48
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im not sure i get the point of that extra slice in there..


would have looked better without it imo.
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Old 06-20-2010, 10:50 PM   #49
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Can't wait to see this finished!
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Old 06-20-2010, 11:16 PM   #50
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im not sure i get the point of that extra slice in there..


would have looked better without it imo.

Idk, I think we outta wait until it's done to judge. It's interesting and unique at least.
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Old 06-21-2010, 03:43 AM   #51
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I've seen it done on project guitar. Trust me, Jason. It's gonna look sweet.
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:18 AM   #52
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Yeah, when that is carved in with the back of the neck, It'll look cool. Are you putting a volute on too? Even though there is a scarf joint, a lot of people like the looks/feel. I haven't used a guitar with a volute though
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:02 PM   #53
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I'm thinking of having a smallish volute.
I'm broke right now, guys. I think I'm going to just start making all the templates I'll need and do everything I can without having any parts or special tools I don't have yet.
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Old 06-21-2010, 06:34 PM   #54
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Scarf joints only ever look good with a constrating stripe IMO.
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Old 06-27-2010, 06:16 PM   #55
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I finally got back to work today, and while I was planing the scarf joint up, I noticed a gap that I could fit my fingernail through. I knew there was a gap there, but I didn't think it was that bad, so I went ahead and used a razor blade to smear glue around inside the crack and clamped it up. My dad just got a sweet new bench grinder, too, so now the plane is super super sharp.

It was a pretty small gap that only extended about 3/4" into the neck, but better safe than sorry.

The joint in question. So once it dries up, I'll get back to work. The truss rod route is scaring me because I haven't ordered the truss rod yet.
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Old 06-29-2010, 08:02 PM   #56
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First off a correction: that gap did not extend 3/4" into the neck. It was maybe 1/8".
So I was planing my neck up, and things were looking pretty sexy...

The joint I fixed turned out perfect.

I got the accent piece flush.

And then, bad news bears again. Another gap, this time larger. It was hiding under glue so I didn't see it until after I planed the joint. Again, I fixed it.

Should be fine. It only went about 1/4" into the neck, so it would've been cut off anyways, but I'm a stickler and I want this thing to last a long long time, so craftsmanship is important.

I can only correct my mistakes and learn from them.
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Old 06-29-2010, 08:26 PM   #57
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Did you rough up the surfaces with sandpaper before gluing? I also suggest more clamps next time
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Old 06-29-2010, 08:57 PM   #58
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I just planed the faces, no sanding. I figured planing would produce a better joint, but maybe I'm mistaken.
Yeah, we clamped it terribly, and this is proof of it. I was expecting gaps once I realized where the clamps were, but it was too late to change it by then.
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Old 06-29-2010, 09:26 PM   #60
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I just planed the faces, no sanding. I figured planing would produce a better joint, but maybe I'm mistaken.
Yeah, we clamped it terribly, and this is proof of it. I was expecting gaps once I realized where the clamps were, but it was too late to change it by then.


You would think that, but it doesn't work out like that. Always rough up your joints with some 60/80 whatever grit sandpaper you have before gluing. I could have sworn i told you before you did this, all well.
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