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Old 09-15-2010, 12:50 PM   #41
matt154
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Originally Posted by WinterSteel
Oh wow, that top looks absolutely amazing! Blood red with a black burst would look absolutely killer on that!

Just...do the headstock the same way? Here's hoping you've got leftovers.

Also, interesting way of dealing with the neck. Means a bit of work with changing the drilling locations, but that's nothing hard. Love to see how this turns out.


Yeah iv'e got enough maple left to do the headstock the same way. I put pictures of some test stains up and get some opinions once they've dried, but the red is looking nice...

I'm also thinking of changing and entirely redoing the neck (but keeping the fretboard). i originally wanted a 5-ply and angled headstock and doing the joint properly from scratch. I guess i'll see when it comes to routing the body.
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Old 09-15-2010, 12:54 PM   #42
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Im pretty intrested to see the maple when its done drying. Do you lay on the stain thick or thin it out some?
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Old 09-15-2010, 01:29 PM   #43
matt154
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Originally Posted by extra heavy
Im pretty intrested to see the maple when its done drying. Do you lay on the stain thick or thin it out some?


The staining process is pretty detailed, iv'e worked it out through loads of tests and filtering through advice and opinions off the net. The basic process is to first lay down a dark, almost black layer with a cloth so that it sinks in to the raised grain areas in the quilt. You pretty much smear the stain on thick, the more it soaks in the better the 3d effect is. Once this is dry it is sanded back so that the stain only remains in these raised grain areas. this gives you the contrast. you then follow with your main colour and you'll get a really deep 3d effect. after this is sealer and then clear coat.
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Old 09-15-2010, 01:57 PM   #44
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Sounds like a pretty detailed and tedious process must have some patiences for that lol.
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Old 09-15-2010, 02:09 PM   #45
matt154
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Originally Posted by extra heavy
Sounds like a pretty detailed and tedious process must have some patiences for that lol.


True, it's worth it for one-offs though.. some major manufacturers do a multi-step staining process, like prs, but it's usually reserved for high end or custom guitars. Gives a damn nice finish...
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Old 09-15-2010, 02:36 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by matt154
True, it's worth it for one-offs though.. some major manufacturers do a multi-step staining process, like prs, but it's usually reserved for high end or custom guitars. Gives a damn nice finish...

Lol I bet im sure its going to be a sexy finish. The last project i did was a bullseye spray job on a mockingbird and I rushed WAY TO MUCH. But ive gained some patience so eventually I think i could do one of these things.
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Old 09-15-2010, 02:53 PM   #47
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Lol I bet im sure its going to be a sexy finish. The last project i did was a bullseye spray job on a mockingbird and I rushed WAY TO MUCH. But ive gained some patience so eventually I think i could do one of these things.


Lol, paint jobs are good because you can always sand them back and start again. The more mistakes you do the more you learn. Youv'e just got to be careful not to make mistakes on expensive stuff.
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Old 09-15-2010, 03:05 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by matt154
Lol, paint jobs are good because you can always sand them back and start again. The more mistakes you do the more you learn. Youv'e just got to be careful not to make mistakes on expensive stuff.

yeah thank god for all the knock off strats and squires in the world lol. Ive actually found that with a few simple upgrades a squire can play hella good. I'd still rather have an Ibanez any day though.
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Old 09-15-2010, 06:42 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by matt154
Yeah iv'e got enough maple left to do the headstock the same way. I put pictures of some test stains up and get some opinions once they've dried, but the red is looking nice...

I'm also thinking of changing and entirely redoing the neck (but keeping the fretboard). i originally wanted a 5-ply and angled headstock and doing the joint properly from scratch. I guess i'll see when it comes to routing the body.



Sounds sweet! Definitely awaiting pics on this one.

Hmm, that's quite the involved process, but since it's your guitar, you can make whatever you want. If that involves removing a fretboard and replacing it on an entirely new neck, go for it! Tricky, but I'm sure it's manageable.
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Old 09-15-2010, 07:28 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by WinterSteel
Sounds sweet! Definitely awaiting pics on this one.

Hmm, that's quite the involved process, but since it's your guitar, you can make whatever you want. If that involves removing a fretboard and replacing it on an entirely new neck, go for it! Tricky, but I'm sure it's manageable.


How would you go about removing a fretboard?
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:21 PM   #51
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Well, assuming that's what you're looking for, basically it involves a lot of patience, an iron with a steam function, a small razor blade, small hammer and a bunch of t-shirts.

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/removal.htm

Tricky, but could be worth it. It's also possible to buy a new neck, but that's up to you.
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Old 09-16-2010, 08:09 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by WinterSteel
Well, assuming that's what you're looking for, basically it involves a lot of patience, an iron with a steam function, a small razor blade, small hammer and a bunch of t-shirts.

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/removal.htm

Tricky, but could be worth it. It's also possible to buy a new neck, but that's up to you.

oh nice man thanks.
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Old 09-16-2010, 10:09 AM   #53
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Yummy!
Looks great so far! How thick is your top? I probably would have finished the trem routing on the top before carving too, but if you're using templates it shouldn't really matter.

The top is 7mm thick, which is too thin to carve. It's a nice top and iv'e never liked the look of figured woods on anything other than carved tops. So i'm in the process of slowly steam bending it over the top of the korina. I'll bung some pics of the bending process up soon once i get them uploaded.
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Old 09-16-2010, 10:30 AM   #54
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I saw you bought a zero resistance trem. Have you ever used one of these before?
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Old 09-16-2010, 10:03 PM   #55
matt154
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I saw you bought a zero resistance trem. Have you ever used one of these before?


Iv'e never owned one but iv'e played guitars with them before and since i'm not a heavy trem user, i thought something that stays in tune is worth while. It's harder to set up but i like a challenge.
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Old 09-17-2010, 07:59 AM   #56
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Iv'e never owned one but iv'e played guitars with them before and since i'm not a heavy trem user, i thought something that stays in tune is worth while. It's harder to set up but i like a challenge.

Yea I had a Ibanez s and it had the zero trem after I got it home and changed strings there was a random buzz that wouldn't go away fully even after a truss adjustment. So I ended up taking it back becasue it didnt play or sound as good as my sa.
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:15 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by extra heavy
Yea I had a Ibanez s and it had the zero trem after I got it home and changed strings there was a random buzz that wouldn't go away fully even after a truss adjustment. So I ended up taking it back becasue it didnt play or sound as good as my sa.


I experienced similar with my S, after some experimenting... turns out it's caused by not cutting enough of the string off, If you cut all the way back to just string and leave nothing of the winding that secures the ball it doesn't happen. *shrugs*
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:21 AM   #58
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I experienced similar with my S, after some experimenting... turns out it's caused by not cutting enough of the string off, If you cut all the way back to just string and leave nothing of the winding that secures the ball it doesn't happen. *shrugs*

So if I would of cut more of the string off on the ball end that wouldn't of happened?
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:24 AM   #59
matt154
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Originally Posted by extra heavy
Yea I had a Ibanez s and it had the zero trem after I got it home and changed strings there was a random buzz that wouldn't go away fully even after a truss adjustment. So I ended up taking it back becasue it didnt play or sound as good as my sa.


Well, i wanted a hardtail originally, but switched to the ZR after people were saying favourable things about it staying in tune. Iv'e had problems with trems drifting in and out of tune before and thought it was a good option. It'd be nice to have a hardtail though, less work..
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Old 09-17-2010, 01:08 PM   #60
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Wouldn't stringing it with the ball end at the headstock also solve the issue? The chance for buzz at the headstock past the locking nut after being correctly wrapped around the tuning peg would be low, right?

Also saves some more cutting, but that's just me being lazy.
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