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Old 01-26-2011, 04:36 PM   #61
vodkanoodle
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i wont stop commenting even though they are pretty much the same each time. You deserve all the compliments you get clean, professional craftsmanship, stunning wood, great photos. You sir are a GB&C legend.
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Old 02-12-2011, 10:05 AM   #62
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Thanks everyone. I seem to be super lazy taking progress pics this time around. My work and some house improvement have been taking all my time lately and to be honest, there haven't really been an awful lot to take pictures of anyway. However, I wouldn't dare post after this much time without at least a couple of them so here you go. Since the last post I've glued on the fb and headstock veneer and I've bandsawn the whole neck roughly to shape and routed the edges clean. If I'm going to make any kind of fb inlay, it would be about time now...

Here's the headstock with markings for tuning machine positions and shape drawn in.


Neck heel routed clean.
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Old 02-12-2011, 10:54 AM   #63
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Old 02-12-2011, 02:05 PM   #64
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you wouldn't believe how much this makes me want to go get some curly maple....How is it to work with?
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Old 02-13-2011, 04:56 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by nowa90
you wouldn't believe how much this makes me want to go get some curly maple....How is it to work with?
It's a bit trickier to work with than "normal" wood. Jointer / thickness planer can tear up the wood but if you have sharp blades and only take away very little at a time it's doable. In my opinion, the best for thicknessing would be a thickness sander. Hand tools are a bit more difficult to use too, I tried shaping a curly maple neck with a spokeshave but ended up using a table belt sander. The same happened with the body, I began shaping the top with this...



...but ended up sanding it too. With a sander it's not so easy to accidentally take away too much. As with other guitar building (or general woodworking) methods too, I'd suggest you to try it out and find the way that suits you best.
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Old 02-13-2011, 12:33 PM   #66
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Hmm, I'll think about it. If it tore out too much, I'd just go with a flat top then.
I don't have a jointer yet, I just use my router with a straight edge It works, and saves me money for now, so why not?
I wasn't planning on using it on the neck, so that makes it easier on me too
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Old 02-13-2011, 02:28 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jenrg
It's a bit trickier to work with than "normal" wood. Jointer / thickness planer can tear up the wood but if you have sharp blades and only take away very little at a time it's doable. In my opinion, the best for thicknessing would be a thickness sander. Hand tools are a bit more difficult to use too, I tried shaping a curly maple neck with a spokeshave but ended up using a table belt sander.



Have you tried only using a rasp? I found that on my laminated flame neck, it wasn't terribly hard to do and I did not experience any tearout at all. Bear in mind it was 5 equally sized pieces, Sapele/Flamed Maple/S/FM/S, so that may have had something to do with it, but with the maple I had no tearout by using a rasp.
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Old 02-13-2011, 02:47 PM   #68
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I have bad experiences in general with spokeshaves and drawknives, they chipped no matter what way i went. Sure, iwas younger and rushed, but my rasp never disappoints.
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:46 PM   #69
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Rasps just take so damn long! I can get a neck I am happier with in less than half the time than with a rasp.

How do you do the fretboard? Do you just buy a flat non slotted one and do it yourself? It looks like you are going to radius it after its already on the neck. Do you just use a block?
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:55 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xstillspinninx
Rasps just take so damn long! I can get a neck I am happier with in less than half the time than with a rasp.

How do you do the fretboard? Do you just buy a flat non slotted one and do it yourself? It looks like you are going to radius it after its already on the neck. Do you just use a block?


It depends on the wood, and how much you gotta take off. a well adjusted spokeshave works well, but a rasp is good for making the rough profile, then using a finer one then sanding it and your done.

Keeping it unradiused would make clamipng it on easier, but not by much unless you have a very high radii
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:19 PM   #71
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^ I was thinking it would make routing the neck shape really easy. I did that on the neck and it worked well, but my preradiused and slotted fretboard is kind of a pain to cut... I had to rough cut it on the bandsaw, line it up on the neck, glue it on, then carefully sand off the saw marks.
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:20 PM   #72
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Gorgeous build, can't wait to see how this comes out.
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:35 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xstillspinninx
Rasps just take so damn long! I can get a neck I am happier with in less than half the time than with a rasp.

How do you do the fretboard? Do you just buy a flat non slotted one and do it yourself? It looks like you are going to radius it after its already on the neck. Do you just use a block?
I've used a flat pre-slotted board for all my builds. With a flat board it's easier to do inlays and clamp it on. I've also always radiused the board when it's on the neck already. For radiusing I use a stewmac block.
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Old 02-15-2011, 06:37 PM   #74
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Can't wait.................give me more!!!!
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Old 02-17-2011, 03:07 PM   #75
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Can't wait.................give me more!!!!
Here you go. Only a small update and really crappy pics though. I really have to get me a new digicam, the one I've taken these with dates back to 2004 and it has seen better days.

Drilled the tuner holes.


Thicknessed the headstock.


Test fit with tuners in place. They are the same kind that I used in the Flame, only with big buttons. The bridge will also be the same, these two are a bit like sister models. This one will be the dark side of the flame


And the backside.
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Old 02-17-2011, 03:14 PM   #76
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your work is stunning as usual. Keep the pics and commentary coming man, its build like this that keep building in mind, I can't build at the moment but this kind of workmanship always inspires me and makes me look forward to a time when I can build again.
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:08 PM   #77
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Those tuners are sexy, what kind are they?
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:35 PM   #78
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Gotoh?
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:46 PM   #79
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It looks like your e string and e string tuners are going to hit your headstock. You might want to look into that before you get too far.

It looks like the rest should clear once you cut the headstock down to your lines though.
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:52 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by DuctTapeNinja
It looks like your e string and e string tuners are going to hit your headstock. You might want to look into that before you get too far.

It looks like the rest should clear once you cut the headstock down to your lines though.


He'll be fine; he still has to file/sand/route/whatever to the line.
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Every time I try to pick it up like falling sand,
As fast as I pick it up,
it runs away through my clutching hands.
There's nothing else I can really do...

Last edited by Copaman : 02-17-2011 at 06:54 PM.
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