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Old 03-28-2012, 04:31 AM   #61
GABarrie
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Join Date: May 2011
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Picture progress! Smoothed and levelled the body out, really getting the hang of my smoothing plane despite the fact it's a cheap chinese POS, the mahogany experienced a little tearout from the plane but not going to worry about it as large amounts of it is getting cut off or bevelled so going to worry about smooth post shaping.



here's the template, got some sketching done on it just to give me some basic idea of what I'm doing



Decided I'm gonna be brave and attempt an angled neck pocket by making the template on a long piece of mdf and propping the end up the correct amount, although it may prove no more difficult than recessing the TOM
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:24 AM   #62
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Shouldn't be too hard. Just make sure it's correct. Maybe use an angle finder?
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:26 AM   #63
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I'll use trigonometry but yeh :p
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:04 PM   #64
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Got the body rough cut today, got the template fitted at got set up to start routing



Then.... Much cursing



The router sat on one of the clamps slightly, took a chunk out my template too! It happened in just about the only place I could get over it, the bevel will cover the big chunk and the jack plate is going on the rest but still pretty pissed off.

Half the issue is that I can't really see what I'm doing so going to get some 1/2" ply and build a router table into my bench before I do any more work on it
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:37 PM   #65
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oh noes!
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:48 PM   #66
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I'll get over it, any more progress going to be delayed for at least a week
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Old 03-28-2012, 04:24 PM   #67
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Ahh...the joys of routing. Out of curiosity, which direction were you feeding the router. I found out (rather too late) that it can make a massive difference to the quality of cut. And then I found stuff like this - http://www.dekalbsaw.com/bitkickback.html - so now I have a small brain seizure every time I start cutting, trying to work out which way I'm supposed to be going.
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Old 03-28-2012, 04:36 PM   #68
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The correct way :p I'm an apprentice joiner, I have been taught how to rout, just ****ed it up

But the correct way pulls the end grain away from the remaining wood, so it's splitting further up than the template edge and giving me tear out which means I need to do it with the bit the other way up ideally, hence the router table
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Old 03-28-2012, 04:49 PM   #69
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From what I've seen, I honestly didn't think for a minute that you wouldn't be. Doing it the right way, that is.

Thinking laterally, and being the impatient type, you could flip the body over and get the same effect as using a table. Not sure what you'd do about following the template though. But then the same goes for using a table.

I think I'll stop trying to be helpful now. >_<
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:29 PM   #70
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Could flip it and use a cutter with the bearing at the bottom:

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Old 03-28-2012, 06:03 PM   #71
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Would need another bit, one that would do the full body depth at once, my bottom bearing bits are all 3/4" or 1" cutting length.
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:19 PM   #72
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The biggest problem there is the depth of cut, once you cut it out, you should really be sanding it close to the line first, I try to have about only a few mm left before I rout. Never take off more than half the bit thickness in a single pass either
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:35 PM   #73
GABarrie
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I was trying not to, but was hard to see using the router upright, the cutter in using is actually a chunky 19mm diameter so really not much chance of taking off more than half the width. I'm confident I'll have more joy in a router table situation, also got some 12,7x50mm bottom bearing flush cutter bits on order.

And I'm getting to that research for you in just a bit blue :p
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:43 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GABarrie
Would need another bit, one that would do the full body depth at once, my bottom bearing bits are all 3/4" or 1" cutting length.

How come you need to do the whole depth at once?
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:00 PM   #75
GABarrie
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Because the uncut bit gets in the way if I'm cutting from that side?
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:02 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GABarrie
Because the uncut bit gets in the way if I'm cutting from that side?

Aahh
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:10 PM   #77
GABarrie
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But like I said got some hits on order, they're cheap silverline ones but I got two so should get me through this project, then I might invest in a nice 3 flute spiral template bit... If I can find 120
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Old 05-24-2012, 12:44 PM   #78
GABarrie
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well.... I've been severly remiss with pictures here so I thought I'd provide some updates, mostly ready now, finish has changed from trans purple to natural and the top bevel has been replaced with a roundover like the back (both my wife's request).

Here's the body and neck as they are with most of the holes filled.


And all the neccessary hardware to test alignment.


All ready to put strings on.


Alignment at roughly the 5th fret.


And alignment at the neck pickup.


The alignment is pretty good for my first try and a freehand neck pocket template. And as my wife isn't likely to be doing anything beyond about the 7th fret (basic chords) for quite some time I am happy with it.

Got some drilling to do for the controls, and to rout the recess for the cavity cover which I will then need to cut to shape. But then I'm ready for finishing so will need to get some truoil in.
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Old 05-25-2012, 04:27 AM   #79
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Yeah, I always use a rubber mallet when I'm re-stringing too.

Looking good.
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Old 05-25-2012, 05:01 AM   #80
GABarrie
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I needed to knock the ferrules in with something and didn't want to damage my fret hammer :P

I've actually filled the gaps at the bottom of the neck pocket now too, look closely you'll see where the router knocked out the divide between the neck pocket and the pickup rout which in those picks is filled with strip wood, the gaps have since been filled in with superglue and sawdust
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