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Old 11-20-2011, 07:46 PM   #41
n1ckn1ce
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Yeah, imight not include the black ice right now... in the beginig, it'll be a regular tone knob and i'll eneventualy inlcude it. but its not for now.

And i'm near of having all the $ for the electronics, so the PG will be done really soon. Before XMas, depending on how fast is GFS delivery's service.
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Since when do you fingerpick?

I ran out of picks last night.
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Old 12-27-2011, 02:24 PM   #42
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The bridge came in this week, and i really like it. It bassicaly look just like a hardtail version of the PRS trem, in black. Looks solid. Ill post pictures as soon as i will find the wire for the camera....
Edit:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Tempaltes done:



The grey part is the tenon, is it big enough?

I'm still unsure about when i'll be doing the woodworking, but i'm ready. i just need an afternoon or two with the guy. :/
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Old 12-27-2011, 03:57 PM   #43
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Pretty nice looking bridge.

I'd say the tenon should be fine yeah, how thick is it?
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Old 12-27-2011, 05:10 PM   #44
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The thinner part is 3/8'', and thethicker part is 1.5'', so the neck will stick an eight of inch over the body.
Does anyone haves good trick on making the bridge look worned a bit? Ya know, the pinkish teint most metal parts get after years of exposure of sweat?, now the plain black looks too plain :/
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Last edited by n1ckn1ce : 12-28-2011 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 12-27-2011, 05:35 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n1ckn1ce
Does anyone haves good trick on making the bridge look worned a bit? Ya know, the pinkish teint most metal parts get after years of exposure of sweat?, now the plain looks too plain :/


This may sound weird and ive never tried it but the 'years' could be shortened with acid i guess, if you put it in a strong acid for a few moments it might look wornier, i dont know if it would work but i guess it should

BTW i wouldnt dare to try it on my own stuff but if you do, i would first try it on some other piece of metal to see the effect
i would love to see pictures if you try
dont know if this helps and it might be extreme but heres my suggestion
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Old 12-27-2011, 05:41 PM   #46
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I'll try vinegar on the back tonight, let ya know the results
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Old 12-27-2011, 06:23 PM   #47
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Looks like one of the old PRS EG series.
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Old 12-28-2011, 12:03 AM   #48
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The bridge? Well, its actually a carbon copy of the bridge on the Mike Mushok Baritone.
The templates? Well, read the first line of the forst post

For the bridge, the noly thing vinegar did was creating some greenspots. for the rest of the bridge, ill probably just do some lightsanding to worn it out.
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Old 12-28-2011, 12:24 AM   #49
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I've seen people hang parts in a sealed plastic lunchbox (above the base) with a pot of concentrated nitric acid in the bottom. After a week or so I think the vapour corrodes the parts - the slow process means you can get it exactly as you like I guess, and won't over do it. If you've ever smelled weld-cleaning acid, that stuff is bloody strong - you could give that a try.
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Old 12-28-2011, 01:52 AM   #50
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I just scracthed it with 120 grit sandpaper and sprayed a little vinegar on it. Now it looks supernice, feels even better (more satin-y then glossy) and smells bad.




Sorry for the blurry ipod touch pic^^
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Old 01-29-2012, 01:18 AM   #51
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At last, some work actually done!
Since an image is worth a thousand words, i'll give you... 9000 worth of words.

Body blank

Neck blank

Body rough cut

Template blank

Template screwed to body, screw holes will be routed out later

Template screwed to less rough cutted body

Body shaped/routed out

Starting the elbow cutaway, it's slow with a palm sander.

The body now, with edges rounded over(thanks to a router Roundover bit)
The main change from my paper template is that the lower horn is 3 mm or so thinner, because I had to make up bandsaw/jigsaw mistakes.
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Since when do you fingerpick?

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Last edited by n1ckn1ce : 01-29-2012 at 01:19 AM.
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Old 01-29-2012, 06:14 AM   #52
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Looks awesome! I just finished my first build and im gonna start my second in a month or two and this is really inspiring! Also you probably already know this but If you are doing more than one contour (like the forearm and also the cutaway) I would definitely mark a horizontal line going along the body so that all the contours are the same depth I didn't do that on mine and they look a bit off . Cant wait to see more pics!
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Old 01-29-2012, 12:47 PM   #53
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Thanks! What is the best suited tool for the contours? A handheld beltsander is too heavy duty, right?
Also, I'll order electronics ASAP, so the might be done in a few weeks.
Maybe i've made a mistake.After passin the roundover bit, theres only 3/4 inch flat on the sides, so most jackplates wont fit, including Electrosocket. Beside top mount, what are my alternatives?
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Since when do you fingerpick?

I ran out of picks last night.
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Old 01-29-2012, 01:35 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n1ckn1ce
Thanks! What is the best suited tool for the contours? A handheld beltsander is too heavy duty, right?
Also, I'll order electronics ASAP, so the might be done in a few weeks.
Maybe i've made a mistake.After passin the roundover bit, theres only 3/4 inch flat on the sides, so most jackplates wont fit, including Electrosocket. Beside top mount, what are my alternatives?

Get a wood rasp(rough file) and use that to shave it and just sand to smooth it out.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:54 AM   #55
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Doing the belly cut.

The back yesterday


The back yesterday, a bit latter


More sanding


And voila, belly cut done,

Further sanding will be made with tinier grit, to get it smooth and even.
The way i did it, using a special tool, was too take off most of the wood by ''digging'' round parts then smoothing all down. I'll show you the special tool later, gotta love it.


This is the elbow cut, will be done today as well as finer sanding.

Again, I Apologize for the crappy pictures, but my IPod Touch is the only camera I always have around...

EDIT: Heres the special tool,my improvisated wood file, aka the lightsander. Basically some 36 grit sand paper taped to a cutted shower curtain pole.
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Since when do you fingerpick?

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Last edited by n1ckn1ce : 01-30-2012 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:05 PM   #56
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Doing the forearm cut

Got lazy on this one...



Sanding...


I need a better workbench.


Ah, much better(Notice the hairdryer).


Shit happens.



The body, how it looks at this very moment. Its sanded down to 150 grit, bue there still some sanding scratch here and here (from the 36 grit sanding). Final sanding and routing cavities will be done in 2-3 weeks, electronics ill be hopefully ordered this week. Until then, see ya!
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Since when do you fingerpick?

I ran out of picks last night.

Last edited by n1ckn1ce : 02-01-2012 at 07:00 PM.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:29 PM   #57
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The scoop: to do or not to do? I know its a PRS trademark, but it look gigantic to me... I'm afraid it'll messs the whole thing up.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:40 PM   #58
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looks pretty snugly. =]
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:41 PM   #59
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VERY cool. Stuck it. I think maybe no for the scoop.
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Depends, I don't know what pickups go good with plywood. EMGs will make it sound like every other EMG guitar though.

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Old 01-31-2012, 07:41 PM   #60
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Mmmhh, wood filler


Mmmhh, wood filled



Scoopy-doopy-done!

As you can see, i've done the scoop all the way, and much deeper then i planned yesterday. I've rasped until it looked and felt right.All in all, the scoop came up way better then i expected it to be: I'm really proud on this one. Also, the body is surpisingly light: it was 5 pound after i routed the edges. After all the sanding and the shaping, it now weight 4 pound - and the cavities are still to do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Jillard
looks pretty snugly. =]

Thaks Jay!
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Since when do you fingerpick?

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