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#81 |
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Ahhh Buenos Aires, te amo
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina
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Holy **** that body is Stunning.Are you going to put pickup rings? Because that would cover the slip. Really IM LOVING THAT body...
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#82 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
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Quote:
he just said that thats awesome and that wood really matches! can't wait to see it done! btw are you making your own rings ore buying and what finish are you doing?
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call me James Current Projects: The Squid Ibanez RG Prototype 2x12 Cab Build (Finished) Line 6 Full Stack Amp Build (Finished) FEAR MY EPICNESS
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#83 |
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The best kind of spice
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Taupo, NZ
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Yep, I'll be using mounting rings. I bought some cream plastic ones from Stew Mac, but they're pretty much orange and probably won't match this guitar - I need to have another think about it. I would love to use a dark, dark brown with the same colour for the binding, but I have no idea where I would find that.
Anyway, slightly more progress (this is definitely an incremental build). The pickup cavities re-routed using a finer 1/4" bit: ![]() The patch got torn out by the router, but I'm not going to try to fix it now. The ears taken through: ![]() The pickup cavities are about 5mm further forward than they should be, but it's not a big deal as long as I know about it. I'll just have to make the neck 5mm longer, and move the bridge 5mm closer.
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#84 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
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looking sweet!!
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call me James Current Projects: The Squid Ibanez RG Prototype 2x12 Cab Build (Finished) Line 6 Full Stack Amp Build (Finished) FEAR MY EPICNESS
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#85 |
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Slight douchebag.
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: QC, bro.
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I hate you. you took the nicest guitar top ever.
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PRS BUILD PINE CAB BUILD Since when do you fingerpick? I ran out of picks last night. |
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#86 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Corrales, NM
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Any reason you rout the pickup cavities first? That mis placement of them is the exact reason i rout the neck pocket, then drill for the bridge, then the pickup cavities in that specific order.
Anyway, its still looking great. |
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#87 |
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The best kind of spice
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Taupo, NZ
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No real reason Explorerbuilder, other than lack of planning and foresight. It's hard to anticipate mistakes without ever having made them - luckily this is fairly minor as far as mistakes go. It's all part of the learning curve, I'm sure there will be a hundred things I'll do differently on the next build.
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#88 |
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The best kind of spice
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Taupo, NZ
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Alrighty, neck-building time. After thicknessing the end of the neck blank to around 18mm, I marked out the neck angle and started work with the handsaw. Ripping through 100mm timber by hand is not a fun task, but I managed to keep it fairly accurate by taking my time:
![]() Then sanding it so the saw cuts don't show in the join: ![]() And finally gluing the bastard together: ![]()
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#89 |
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Slight douchebag.
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: QC, bro.
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Neat!
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PRS BUILD PINE CAB BUILD Since when do you fingerpick? I ran out of picks last night. |
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#90 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
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cool!
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call me James Current Projects: The Squid Ibanez RG Prototype 2x12 Cab Build (Finished) Line 6 Full Stack Amp Build (Finished) FEAR MY EPICNESS
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#91 |
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Ahhh Buenos Aires, te amo
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina
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great stuff
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#92 |
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The best kind of spice
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Taupo, NZ
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More (and still incremental) progress:
The scarf joint, out of the clamp: ![]() Truss rod channel routed: ![]() There was a slight bow in the straight guide I was using, so it moves about 0.5mm in the middle, then back to the centreline at either end. It shouldn't affect the mechanics too much. Then test-fitting the truss rod: ![]() Perfect! Now to figure out how I'm going to drill the hole at the nut...
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#93 |
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UGs only Gandalf
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New Zealand
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nice work mate, looking good.
If you have a small chisel, you could get the drill hole started, just so the drillbit has a 90˚ platform and isn't trying to go in at the 15˚ headstock angle ? Also I have the same glasses and earmuffs haha |
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#94 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
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What an impressive build. Good job man. Ive been routinely checking in to see how things are going. I think I can speak for more than myself when I say Im eager to see the finished product.
Last edited by Maximo33 : 12-14-2011 at 05:15 PM. |
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#95 |
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The best kind of spice
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Taupo, NZ
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Gandalf, I guess great minds think alike; after posting last night, I did exactly that. First I had to device an incredibly expensive and complex mechanism to mark the base of the truss rod channel on the headstock:
![]() Which works like so: ![]() The recess marked and cut: ![]() But that's enough guitar for now. Right now it's time for:
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#96 |
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The best kind of spice
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Taupo, NZ
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COOKING WITH BOYSIE!
Here's a simple recipe to drill a truss rod without leaving those unsightly chuck burr marks. ***NOTICE: Do not use this at high speed. The drill bit is not secure, and could fly out at any time. Adult supervision is advised.*** Ingredients: One 1/4" (or your own flavour) drill bit, with the end ground flat ![]() One pre-loved bolt with the head removed. Here's one I prepared earlier: ![]() Some people go for new, shiny and straight bolts, but I love the rustic look that comes with a beaten-up old piece of steel. First step: straighten the bolt. I recommend using a spanner or crescent for leverage: ![]() Next, you'll want to drill a centre mark in the end of the round, like so: ![]() Then, using the pre-ground drill bit, put a big ol' hole in that sucker. The deeper the better! (As long as you can still see the cutting flutes sticking out the end). Most people will want to keep this concentric with the bolt, but I love the thrill of a wobbly drill bit spinning at 2000rpm, so I put a bit of a wander into it: ![]() Using a hacksaw, cut a slot in the bolt end the same width as the flat portion of the drill bit. Once you get fed up with trying to keep the blade straight, switch to an angle grinder and demo that bitch. Clean up and square off with a file. Your bolt should look like this: ![]() Finally, clamp that beast up tight, locking the drill bit in place: ![]() Bon Appetit! ![]()
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#97 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Corrales, NM
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Or you could buy an 8$ 10" bit from home depot, and save all that trouble
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#98 |
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New Zealand rep!
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
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I hate to agree with Explorerbuilder, but he is right
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________________________________________ Chur |
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#99 |
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No More Stratocaster
Join Date: Apr 2008
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That may have been a long, roundabout way to fashion a tool that possibly could have been bought elsewhere, but I'm pretty impressed with the ingenuity and machining skill it took to create a tool like that. Craftsmanship is right on par with the rest of the build!
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#100 |
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The best kind of spice
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Taupo, NZ
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Haha that was my original plan - I picked up an extended 6mm bit from placemakers (and it was $26), but it really needed to be 1/4" for the truss rod, which they didn't stock. I enjoy making things, regardless of how redundant they may be, so it was 20 minutes well spent for me.
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