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Old 04-01-2012, 06:51 PM   #1
dkunick
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6505+ 112 Head/Cab in Ivory

Split the original 112 combo head/cab and wrapped in ivory marine-grade vinyl. Blue LED mod, blacked out reverb tank, relocated badges to front of grill, Blackface style grill cloth on cab. How-To details below. Comments welcome!


IMG_1255 by Waco70, on Flickr


IMG_1279 by Waco70, on Flickr


IMG_1283 by Waco70, on Flickr


IMG_1294 by Waco70, on Flickr


IMG_1286 by Waco70, on Flickr


IMG_1264 by Waco70, on Flickr


IMG_1291 by Waco70, on Flickr


IMG_1297 by Waco70, on Flickr


IMG_1309 by Waco70, on Flickr


IMG_1306 by Waco70, on Flickr
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Last edited by dkunick : 04-04-2012 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:00 PM   #2
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Nice!
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:10 PM   #3
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thats really quite sexually attractive
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:57 AM   #4
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Looks awesome! Have a step by step process anywhere?
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:59 PM   #5
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r3h0ld3r, in my head...it goes like this:

1. Remove all hardware and the amp/speaker from the cabinet

2. Strip all the old black tolex off, should peel quite easily

3. Get a handsaw used for cutting door trim/baseboard molding flat with the floor and cut the head portion flush with the top of the speaker cab (at this point you can also cut out the supports for the front grill flush with the inside of the head case, but careful, there are metal staples in there you may need a hacksaw blade for...you'll be screwing it in from the sides/bottom into the cab itself to maximize transparency through the grill...and this is where the aluminum strips come into play later)


IMG_1229 by Waco70, on Flickr

4. From your local Lowes/Menards/Home Depot purchase a length of straight 1x12 to top the speaker cab and bottom the head (I bought 2 4-ft sections as the length req'd was just over 25"; I used Aspen (cheapest) but they had other choices)

5. Measure or use the head/cab sections to mark your length and cut the 1x12s...also trim the 1/4" off the 12" to even it up width-wise (remember here to install the threaded inserts for the new speaker cab handle before gluing the board into place...I bought a new identical Peavey handle, 2 sets of rubber feet, and 8 new Peavey corners from Speakerbuildersupply.com along with the groovy grill cloth)

6. Use a biscuit cutter to cut, then biscuit join/clamp the new top/bottom pieces to the speaker and head cabs (I suppose you could also just glue and use drywall screws; I used 0 size biscuits)


IMG_1242 by Waco70, on Flickr

7. Purchase 1" aluminum strip from said hardware store and cut lengths to match the front grill along the bottom and up each side...also dry fit and mark/drill holes in the strips for finishing screws to go through the mesh grill (from the inside), through the aluminum and into the wood case (during installation of the front grill a 90 degree phillips driver is a must; also requires two more black finishing screws with washers; I had them already but if you don't you can purchase them online or find something close at the hardware store)

8. Remove reverb tank and tape up the holes and bottom; scuff/clean/prime/paint it and the aluminum strips flat black


IMG_1238 by Waco70, on Flickr

9. While the wood glue is setting, and after the black paint is dry, re-install the reverb tank and wire in the blue LED strip sold at Walmart for $10-12...instructions for this can be found here: http://forums.peavey.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=17845


IMG_1245 by Waco70, on Flickr

10. Remove the badges from the MDF and re-install on front of grill using 3M double-sided tape and black allen-head hardware, also found at said store


IMG_1235 by Waco70, on Flickr


IMG_1236 by Waco70, on Flickr

11. Round over the new wood with router to match contour of the original cab; also knock off the corners of the new boards similar to the original cab so the corners will fit; finally notch out a small channel for the speaker lead to exit out the back of the cab through the seam between the cab and the enclosure back board

12. Sand smooth both cabs, then black out the inside of the bottom board to the head case using same flat black spray paint

13. Wrap both in your choice of color (Tolex/vinyl/Naugahyde) more online instructions: and use a drop cloth or you'll get contact cement over spray on your floor.


IMG_1246 by Waco70, on Flickr

14. Pull the million and a half staples out of the grill cloth frame and recover in your choice of grill cloth (I used a Fender Blackface style cloth with blue threads from Speakerbuildersupply.com; this was also tough to work with and the cloth I chose requires the grid pattern to be straight. You can also keep the stock black grill if desired. An electric staple gun is a must for this job)


IMG_1295 by Waco70, on Flickr

15. Using your fingers and an awl poke through all the holes in the new vinyl for the screws

16. Replace the amp/grills/corners/rubber feet/handles/screws/speaker/grill cloth frame/etc. (depending on the vinyl you use it may fit tighter than the original tolex and may take some persuading; rubber feet go about 2 inches in from each corner; finally, I had to trim 2 of the metal corners to sit flush on the top/back side of the cab due to doubling the height of the top [doesn't affect the front]; for this I used a Dremel with cutting wheel then filed the edges smooth...use a black Sharpie or some flat black paint to touch up any shiny spots)

17. Lastly, it never hurts to dry-fit things as you go and minimize rework, to include ensuring your LEDs work and the corners fit right; be patient, with work this took me a full week including both weekends


IMG_1306 (595x800) by Waco70, on Flickr

I hope this helps, a quick down n' dirty on how I did it. I didn't have a well thought out plan to start with, but the key is going slow and thinking out every step in advance, before cutting/gluing/soldering/etc. I learned a few things along the way that will make my next project a bit easier.

I highly recommend checking out the videos before starting...I failed to find the Tolex video before jumping in on mine and found it would have made my job far easier if I had watched it first.

If you have any specific questions I'll be happy to answer; I'm sure in my quick reply I failed to capture some crucial detail. Cheers!
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Last edited by dkunick : 04-03-2012 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:11 AM   #6
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dkunick you rock! Thank you for such comprehensive information. I really like the look with the led and I plan on separating the head from the cab. It's all MDF, correct?
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:40 AM   #7
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No, the cab is particle board. So when applying the vinyl line it up right the first time and roll it smooth with a rubber roller. If you have to pull it up to reposition you risk pulling up particles of wood with the vinyl and when laid back down they'll show as nibs underneath. Good luck and if you have any questions as you go let me know.
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Old 04-03-2012, 02:59 PM   #8
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Looks great!
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Old 04-03-2012, 04:04 PM   #9
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this is awesome dude. What's on your output tubes in the very first picture though?
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Old 04-03-2012, 07:11 PM   #10
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Metalhead352, I believe your referring to the silicone dampeners; I bought them from Eurotubes.com. I retubed with JJs and the dampeners were only a few more bucks so I thought I'd give them a try. Thanks for the compliment.
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Last edited by dkunick : 04-03-2012 at 07:17 PM.
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:59 AM   #11
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This is very awesome, well done
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Old 04-04-2012, 01:24 PM   #12
dkunick
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Thanks!
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:25 PM   #13
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Beautiful!
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:16 AM   #14
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I can't think of any other better way to describe what my eyes are seeing in this thread.
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:22 AM   #15
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Haha, thanks guys.
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:47 AM   #16
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Removed by mod.
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:28 AM   #17
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Wow thats looks amazing nice job.

My question is with regards to the electronics side of things, did u have to do anything? Or was it a simple pull out the brains of the head and slide it back into the new housing. I feel comfortable with the woodworking side but not at all with the electronic side.
Thanks

Great step by step as well. Nice work.
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:01 PM   #18
dkunick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lamhairgead
Wow thats looks amazing nice job.

My question is with regards to the electronics side of things, did u have to do anything? Or was it a simple pull out the brains of the head and slide it back into the new housing. I feel comfortable with the woodworking side but not at all with the electronic side.
Thanks

Great step by step as well. Nice work.


Thanks a lot! Only electronic mod I did was to the LED lights. As far as the head chassis goes I just removed the screws securing it and slid it out, then back in after the work to the cab. It was a bit tighter fit after the new vinyl but with a little persuasion she fit ok.

While you have the head out it might be a good time to swap tubes if you are planning to upgrade and/or mark the shields V1-V5 so you can see them from the back to make IDing them easier in the future (I used a Sharpie).
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:24 AM   #19
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Thanks for the reply i really want to try this.

Is it easy to re tube the amp yourself this is something have never done before, i understand that peaveys don't need to be biased, dose that make it simply a task of popping in mew tubes and away you go. Sorry for the noob question.

Cheers
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:21 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lamhairgead
Thanks for the reply i really want to try this.

Is it easy to re tube the amp yourself this is something have never done before, i understand that peaveys don't need to be biased, dose that make it simply a task of popping in mew tubes and away you go. Sorry for the noob question.

Cheers


Easy as pie...pull old tubes, plug in new tubes. No biasing necessary with this amp.
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