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Old 05-05-2012, 12:52 AM   #21
X-plorer88
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End-citizen why are you using double pole switches? This would be the equivalent schematic with single poles.

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Old 05-05-2012, 11:14 AM   #22
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Simply for the ability to add LEDs if they so choose.

EDIT: And also I was working off the cheapest footswitches available from smallbear.
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:34 PM   #23
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To add LEDs you need a dedicated pole. Wiring the hot tip of each of the 4 splits to the common of each switch is the best way to do it. Yours works fine, but the extra pole is redundant.
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:11 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X-plorer88
To add LEDs you need a dedicated pole. Wiring the hot tip of each of the 4 splits to the common of each switch is the best way to do it. Yours works fine, but the extra pole is redundant.


Indeed it is, but I did not realize that the other guy was not going to use toggle switches. I just looked on Smallbear, found the cheapest footswitch and started drawing. Your design is certainly simpler and still allows for LEDs.
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Old 05-05-2012, 08:22 PM   #25
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radio shack only had that kind of dpdt...
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:50 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by end_citizen
You've basically got 2 options. You can do a passive version (kind of what was shown in the previous post) or a buffered version.


The passive version is much simpler to build (just some wires, switches, and jacks). However, your signal is divided in 4 to go to the different amps.

The buffered version is a little trickier to build, but not hard. A couple resistors, some op-amps, and maybe a few capacitors as well. The plus side of this is a buffer puts out the same signal that came into it. You have to power it (with a 9v battery or power supply). You'll get better results this way, but you may not find it necessary.

Let me know which one you are more interested in, and I can draw up a diagram for you. Here's some docs about buffers: http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Buffers



Sorry to bring a dead thread back to life ^_^'
Hey end_citizen, I was wondering if you could post up a buffered version of your amazing schematics. If possible, could you also show how you might go about changing it to 6 or more outputs too? Also, this may be beyond the extent of this thread, but I was also wondering how you might go about doing the opposite; 4 or so inputs into one mono output.
I'm more of an audio producer, so I'm not to fond of any signal loss
thanks for your help!

P.S. this is my first UG forum post, so forgive any of my tactlessness.
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Old 11-24-2012, 12:22 AM   #27
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This would have gone better in a PM bud, but I understand as it's your first post.

With the passive one, you just plug the output into what would normally be the input, and the inputs into what would normally be the outputs. However you have to make sure that the output between the things is similar otherwise one will overpower the other. However I believe that the buffered version remedies this.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:06 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R45VT
http://cathbard.com/images/temp/ABY.png

Cathbard posted this, its a splitter for two amps, it will get you an idea. Modify as needed.

What is the purpose of the 10 megohm resistors on the switches? Will that prevent popping? Or is there another reason?


I've built quite a bit from schems, but I'm trying to learn more of the reasoning/etc behind everything now.
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:11 AM   #29
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I think it prevents the output hot from floating during the brief switching moment when the wiper isn't connected to either poles. It should suppress any noise from the amp when the switch occurs.
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