Go Back   UG Community @ Ultimate-Guitar.Com > Instruments > Gear Building & Customizing
User Name  
Password
Search:

Reply
Old 07-08-2012, 06:43 PM   #1
von Layzonfon
UG's Grammar Stickler
 
von Layzonfon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: 22 Acacia Avenue
Guitar Butchery #2: "LP-S" (and it's not a cake this time)

I'm stepping up my game for this one; I'm going to build the body. I'm also going for a tremelo and a couple of pickups so there's a marked increase in complexity.

The basic idea is to build a guitar that is LP-shaped, but has the body profile of the Ibanez S-series. I've had this idea in my head since before my first build but I'm only just getting around to it. The main reason is that I've finally given up on being able to get a ZR trem and have settled for a Floyd. Once again, I'm going for super-low budget so I don't get desperately upset if it all goes horribly wrong. Here's the specs...

Body: Pine - multi-part made from a length of 2x2 I had lying around.
Neck: Bolt-on, 24 frets, 25.5", Rosewood fingerboard - scored on ebay for 37, looks a little PRS-ish.
Pickups: Iron Gear Hot Slag + Rolling Mill.
Controls: 2 Vol, 2 Tone with pull for coil tap, 3-way switch.
Bridge: Licensed Floyd Rose - another horribly cheap ebay bargain. 18 new. No good can come of this.
Finish: I have something in mind but I'm keeping it a secret for now.

This is going to be a slow affair due to availablity of spare time and the fact that I'll be doing it pretty much ad hoc (that's Latin for "making it up as I go along").

So here's the timber.


All glued and clamped. Those 500mm clamps were another bargain bin find: Just over 4 each from MP Direct (dot co dot uk).


And here's the body template, pretty much taken from the "catto" version. There's 16mm MDF under there. I'll be filling in the blanks as I go along.


The main object of the exercise is to get practise at making a body - hence using scrap pine. The thing that's troubling me most at this point is how to go about routing the control cavity. The pickup and trem cavities are no problem because I can do those before shaping the body. But the control cavity will have to be done after shaping (I'm guessing) if I want to have any chance of getting the top thickness uniform. Like this...


I'm also wondering whether I'll have enough room in such a slender profile to use push-pull pots for the coil taps, or whether I'd be better off going for toggles - but I'd rather not.

Time will tell.
__________________

Paddy von Layzonfon! Founder of The Spell it RELICKED Club
von Layzonfon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2012, 07:06 PM   #2
EpiExplorer
Pulling straws at random
 
EpiExplorer's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Ew, pine D: Dont be sorry when you get feeback from your gutiar cuz your wood's too thin to contain the signal!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by metaldood91
Hi. Can someone tell me which guitars are real 24 fret guitars and which are just 22 fret guitars with 2 extra frets added on?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ometh
Eip pls
EpiExplorer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2012, 07:07 PM   #3
EpiExplorer
Pulling straws at random
 
EpiExplorer's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
OH LOOK WHUT I FOUND FOR DIRT CHEAPY CHEAP http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies....parsionshopping

I'm sorry, I'm being mean.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by metaldood91
Hi. Can someone tell me which guitars are real 24 fret guitars and which are just 22 fret guitars with 2 extra frets added on?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ometh
Eip pls
EpiExplorer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2012, 07:22 PM   #4
von Layzonfon
UG's Grammar Stickler
 
von Layzonfon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: 22 Acacia Avenue
Quote:
Originally Posted by EpiExplorer
Ew, pine D: Dont be sorry when you get feeback from your gutiar cuz your wood's too thin to contain the signal!

Wow! So soon? And what part of the signal goes through the wood, exactly?

Don't get me completely wrong, I'm more than willing to wolf down some humble pie if you turn out to be right but until then you can keep your voodoo tonewood mumbo-jumbo to yourself.

And 72 doesn't even come close to the cheapness of about 14 of stuff "I had lying around". As I said, this exercise it mainly to practise the build process. Did you even read the post? Or did you just see the word "pine" and your head exploded?

__________________

Paddy von Layzonfon! Founder of The Spell it RELICKED Club

Last edited by von Layzonfon : 07-08-2012 at 07:24 PM.
von Layzonfon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2012, 02:03 AM   #5
whoomit
 
whoomit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by EpiExplorer
Ew, pine D: Dont be sorry when you get feeback from your gutiar cuz your wood's too thin to contain the signal!

I made a pine guitar and it was fine.

This guy makes a living out of making them: http://www.pinecaster.com/

I'm sure it'll be fine
whoomit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2012, 02:06 AM   #6
Seref
Gob****e
 
Seref's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Miami, Florida, United States of America, North American Continent, Earth, Terrestrial Planets, Solar System, Local Cluster, Local Bubble, Orion Arm, Milky Way, Local Group, Virgo Supercluster, Universe, Multiverse, Omniverse, Eternity
The very first Fender Esquires were made of pine and they sound great. Don't worry. Just be careful while routing 'cause pine is a softwood and likes to tear.
__________________
They're back!

Last edited by Seref : 07-09-2012 at 02:07 AM.
Seref is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2012, 03:39 AM   #7
LeviMan_2001
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
I don't understand what's going on with the control cavity picture there... As far as I know, a les paul is just a regular old control cavity in the back. Also, pine will be fine, it won't feedback. It takes a lot to make a guitar feedback to the point where it's a problem.
__________________
Danelectro Longhorn guitar build: http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/foru...d.php?t=1564392
LeviMan_2001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2012, 04:27 AM   #8
slapsymcdougal
UG Bored King
 
slapsymcdougal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeviMan_2001
I don't understand what's going on with the control cavity picture there... As far as I know, a les paul is just a regular old control cavity in the back. Also, pine will be fine, it won't feedback. It takes a lot to make a guitar feedback to the point where it's a problem.

He wants to make the body like an Ibanez S-series, which is thinner towards the edges, so he's worrying about the push-pull coil taps being too big for the outside edge of the cavity.

I think.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by GbAdimDb5m7
You don't know every cyborg penis or eye type in the world.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diemon Dave
Don't go ninjerin nobody don't need ninjerin'

Quote:
Originally Posted by PC Toshan
Quality polis, MacGregor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thegurfzone
you're winning this argument and i don't like it.
slapsymcdougal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2012, 04:38 AM   #9
von Layzonfon
UG's Grammar Stickler
 
von Layzonfon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: 22 Acacia Avenue
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeviMan_2001
I don't understand what's going on with the control cavity picture there...

I'll try and clarify later when I've got time to sketch up some more pictures. But slapsy has it partly right.

Thanks to all for the reassurance about the wood. As you'll have picked up, I'm not at all worried about that. I have a post waiting in the wings along those lines, but I'm going to wait until I'm in a really cantankerous mood before unleashing that one.
__________________

Paddy von Layzonfon! Founder of The Spell it RELICKED Club
von Layzonfon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2012, 05:21 AM   #10
Leon987
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoomit
I made a pine guitar and it was pine.

This guy makes a living out of making them: http://www.pinecaster.com/

I'm sure it'll be pine


^you don't say

but really TS, would like to see how this turns out, and now curious for the finish...
Leon987 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2012, 06:09 AM   #11
whoomit
 
whoomit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon987
^you don't say

but really TS, would like to see how this turns out, and now curious for the finish...

Oh God That was supposed to say "and it was fine"

Edit: ARRGGHHH! You got me there!
whoomit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2012, 08:10 AM   #12
von Layzonfon
UG's Grammar Stickler
 
von Layzonfon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: 22 Acacia Avenue
The Cavity Routing Conumdrum Clarification.
Sounds like an episode of Big Bang Theory



Fig. 1
On a standard, non-carved or shaped body, routing the cavity poses no problems. The thickness remains contant across the bottom.

Fig 2.
If I were to rout as per Fig. 1 and then taper the wings, we end up with the bottom of the cavity getting thinner toward the outer edge. This results in the knobs not being level with the face of the body (unless I recess them, which I don't want to do) and the possibility of breaking through into the cavity when shaping.

Fig. 3
Trying to rout after shaping just makes the problem worse.

Fig. 4
Shows the ideal cavity, with its bottom parallel to the surface of the guitar. But it also shows the angle the router will have to be to the back side of the body to achieve this.

It may be that I can rig something up with my thicknessing jig. A bit like this.



But I think there's only about 55mm clearance under it, so this may not be possible. Plus, it's not really a 2D problem as the whole bottom end of the body will get shaped, making it more of a very shallow cone shape than a wedge.

It's a puzzlement.
__________________

Paddy von Layzonfon! Founder of The Spell it RELICKED Club
von Layzonfon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2012, 09:35 AM   #13
whoomit
 
whoomit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Set your pillar/pedastal drill (assuming you have one) to stop a few mm from the bottom. Then you rough it out with the pillar drill, rout the edges of the cavity (not to full depth), and carve the rest by hand with sharp chisels, or perhaps violin makers planes if you happen to be lucky enough to own some.
whoomit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2012, 10:23 AM   #14
von Layzonfon
UG's Grammar Stickler
 
von Layzonfon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: 22 Acacia Avenue
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoomit
Set your pillar/pedastal drill (assuming you have one) to stop a few mm from the bottom. Then you rough it out with the pillar drill, rout the edges of the cavity (not to full depth), and carve the rest by hand with sharp chisels, or perhaps violin makers planes if you happen to be lucky enough to own some.

The pillar drill I have access to (pictured in my last build thread) actually took somone's finger off last week. But that's what you get for using a drill while wearing gloves and prodding at your workpiece, I guess.

Other than that, sounds like a reasonable idea.
__________________

Paddy von Layzonfon! Founder of The Spell it RELICKED Club
von Layzonfon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2012, 06:23 PM   #15
von Layzonfon
UG's Grammar Stickler
 
von Layzonfon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: 22 Acacia Avenue
Rough cut with my trusty 14 jigsaw.


Took me blummen ages. I'm starting to think that if you really want to do a decent job hand tools just don't cut it (pun intended).

And here's the neck.




Looks like an AANJ configuration so I guess I'll be trying to work that into it.
__________________

Paddy von Layzonfon! Founder of The Spell it RELICKED Club
von Layzonfon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2012, 07:21 PM   #16
-MintSauce-
Time Lord
 
-MintSauce-'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: England
Carve your top, then clamp the body and route the control cavity so that the walls are perpendicular to the rear face. You'll have a gradient on the top, but that's what long shaft pots and spacing nuts/washers are for!
-MintSauce- is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2012, 07:28 PM   #17
von Layzonfon
UG's Grammar Stickler
 
von Layzonfon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: 22 Acacia Avenue
Quote:
Originally Posted by -MintSauce-
Carve your top, then clamp the body and route the control cavity so that the walls are perpendicular to the rear face. You'll have a gradient on the top, but that's what long shaft pots and spacing nuts/washers are for!

It's an idea. I'm really pushing the envelope on this one because I'm planning to shape it front and back la S Series and because I want switched tone pots I need at least 32mm body depth. I've not actually looked for long shaft switched pots, but it's another idea to throw into the mix.
__________________

Paddy von Layzonfon! Founder of The Spell it RELICKED Club
von Layzonfon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2012, 07:47 PM   #18
-MintSauce-
Time Lord
 
-MintSauce-'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: England
Quote:
Originally Posted by von Layzonfon
It's an idea. I'm really pushing the envelope on this one because I'm planning to shape it front and back la S Series and because I want switched tone pots I need at least 32mm body depth. I've not actually looked for long shaft switched pots, but it's another idea to throw into the mix.


WDMusic sell long shaft pots with DPDT, but they're not cheap:
http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/50...WD500X LPUSHUS :S

Or you can get something similar for 7 from Axesrus:
http://www.axesrus.com/axeElectronicsPots.htm#MiscPots (halfway down the page).
-MintSauce- is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2012, 09:34 PM   #19
Spectre13
Die-hard Ibanez Collector
 
Spectre13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Texas, USA
Hey dude--this is certainly an interesting idea and project. That body, in it's current state, could double as a cutting board...lol.

Why have you given up on the ZR trem? I see them all the time, and there are a handful on evilbay right now for about $100.00

For pickups--go with something really different and outrageous! Try a high output DiMarzio in the bridge, a medium output DiMarzio in the middle and a Tele lipstick tube pickup in the neck. That would be so friggin' odd looking, give you a wide sonic spectrum to play in and really be a conversation piece. Add a push/pull volume pot that splits the middle humbucker, too.

Do something cool for the headstock logo, too. Let me know what your body finish/design will be and I'll come up with something cool.
__________________
Oh, frack! But, I didn't say frack--I said "THE" word. The F-dash-dash-dash-dash word.
Spectre13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2012, 04:51 AM   #20
slapsymcdougal
UG Bored King
 
slapsymcdougal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by von Layzonfon
It's an idea. I'm really pushing the envelope on this one because I'm planning to shape it front and back la S Series and because I want switched tone pots I need at least 32mm body depth. I've not actually looked for long shaft switched pots, but it's another idea to throw into the mix.

Would it be worthwhile rearranging the pots so both the bigger push-pull pots are closer to the midline, like
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by GbAdimDb5m7
You don't know every cyborg penis or eye type in the world.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diemon Dave
Don't go ninjerin nobody don't need ninjerin'

Quote:
Originally Posted by PC Toshan
Quality polis, MacGregor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thegurfzone
you're winning this argument and i don't like it.
slapsymcdougal is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:38 AM.

Forum Archives / About / Terms of Use / Advertise / Contact / Ultimate-Guitar.Com © 2014
Powered by: vBulletin Version 3.0.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.