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Old 10-06-2012, 04:35 PM   #21
psychokiller99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R45VT
It's not bad to do. Of coarse a new PCB might be best if it's cheap enough.

Looks like the resistors for the heaters go hot as well. Wow.

How are you at soldering? If you aren't experienced it's going to need to go to someone who can do it. You can lift the PCB traces off the board if you aren't careful.



are you talking about R33 and R35? My hands aren't very steady, but I've managed to do a few things here and there. I don't have very soldering sponge/braid though.
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Old 10-06-2012, 04:56 PM   #22
R45VT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychokiller99
are you talking about R33 and R35? My hands aren't very steady, but I've managed to do a few things here and there. I don't have very soldering sponge/braid though.


For sucking the old solder you want a pen style sucker. Radio shack has them. It's easiest if you have a temperature controlled soldering iron. Otherwise it might get too hot.

What is you nearest major city?
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Originally Posted by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:06 PM   #23
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I live in San Luis Obispo, about 1.5 hours from Santa Barbara. There's a radioshak and home depot here though. So it's just those three spots that I need to repair? There seem to be indications of overheating in the copper traces all over the board.
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:19 PM   #24
R45VT
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It needs new resistors at a minimum.

Big 2 questions- what caused it? And did the traces get damaged?

I don't know Traynors customer support is. If there is a part number on the PCB you can call and see if you can get a new one and how much. With the amount of areas effected a board would be better.

Do you see anything funny on the main PCB?

Also do you have a multi-meter?

If you were closer to LA I would offer to help. Seeing how I am on the south side of town and about to go to on a work trip that wouldn't work out.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.

Last edited by R45VT : 10-06-2012 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:35 PM   #25
psychokiller99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R45VT
It needs new resistors at a minimum.

Big 2 questions- what caused it? And did the traces get damaged?

I don't know Traynors customer support is. If there is a part number on the PCB you can call and see if you can get a new one and how much. With the amount of areas effected a board would be better.

Do you see anything funny on the main PCB?

Also do you have a multi-meter?

If you were closer to LA I would offer to help. Seeing how I am on the south side of town and about to go to on a work trip that wouldn't work out.



I'm pretty sure my old tubes crapping out is what caused it. I'll give Traynor a call and see what they have. They discontinued my amp, so I doubt they'll offer me much. Thanks for your help though, I've been thinking about getting a new amp anyways.

I do have a multi meter, but it needs new batteries.
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:54 PM   #26
R45VT
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Try to fix it first.
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Originally Posted by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:30 PM   #27
R45VT
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Here are some parts you may need:

Resistors
http://tubedepot.com/resistors.html

Buss wire
http://tubedepot.com/bw.html

Wiring
http://tubedepot.com/wire.html

my favorite desoldering pump
http://tubedepot.com/ts-384-1000.html


Throw some new resistors in there. Also if you have a power source you can load and voltage drop the current tracks to see if they are damaged. By power source I mean something DC, maybe one or two 9v batteries together.

If any current tracks are damaged you can just run a new wire on the top side of the PCB.

Let me know if you have any questions.
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See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:49 AM   #28
R45VT
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I hate to bump it but I wanted to make sure you know that it needs to be biased. It's the little pot on power tube board.
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Originally Posted by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
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Old 10-07-2012, 01:33 PM   #29
psychokiller99
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yeah, I'll give it a shot. It'll be instructive at the very least. Thanks for the advice and the links. I'll head over to radioshak later on. I found the schematic to my amp online so I know the resistor values I need. Hopefully a resistor swap alone will fix it.
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Old 10-07-2012, 02:00 PM   #30
Arby911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R45VT
I hate to bump it but I wanted to make sure you know that it needs to be biased. It's the little pot on power tube board.



What are you seeing that I'm not? I don't see anything in those pictures that looks like its been 'failure' hot?
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Old 10-07-2012, 02:07 PM   #31
R45VT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arby911
What are you seeing that I'm not? I don't see anything in those pictures that looks like its been 'failure' hot?


The resistors got way too hot. There are a few links to pictures. Find to topside pictures and look at R89 and R90. Also you can see it got overloaded on the bottom side as well.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.

Last edited by R45VT : 10-07-2012 at 02:17 PM.
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