andyhatescrass

Hmmm, so do I have to put my amp on standby to switch db levels and have them work right? Or does it require more than that?

I would normally ask if this could be harmful, but im guessing its not. I can't recall ever seeing anything saying not to switch fx loop levels while the amp is running.

AcousticMirror

no you can switch it while it's running. you just can't expect it to function like a boost that you can switch in and out whenever you want.

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311ZOSOVHJH

I actually think there might be something wrong with your amp. I don't think mine does that. Maybe I'll try it today and report back. -10db is what you want but I don't remember a drastic boost with it engaged not do I remember any noisiness like that.

I'd just send Scott an email. I also notice you have a similar thread over on the splawn boards - I'll go check that out too.

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jimbob78

Do you regularly play live in a band?

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Beezerk

Another shout for those volume box gadgets here, I use one with my Krank in the FX loop, it means I can turn the master volume up as far as I want and control overall volume with the dial on the box.
I'd say the tone loss to my ears is minimal.

R45VT

Trashed- did you open yours up and take a measurement to see what type of pot is in there?

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andyhatescrass

Thanks for all of the suggestions, I'll be ordering a volume box in a few days, definitely sold on these. Still stuck on this fx loop issue though...



Thanks man. Let me know if you get a chance to mess around with it.



I do. This is pretty much my main reason for wanting lower volume, the rooms we play are usually too small for me to crank my QR to get THAT tone.

jimbob78

Fair enough. I know what that's like. I had a MK2 Boogie that needed to be crazy loud to open up.

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311ZOSOVHJH

Andy - I tried a bunch of stuff tonight but nothing was too conclusive.


I tried popping the Line Level button (+4/-10) on back of the amp while playing. It did make a bit of click but I did not notice too much of a boost one way or the other.

I tried that with and without my pedal board.

I tried it with the pedal board on (mainly phaser and EQ pedals) and didn't hear much difference.

I also put my volume box in the loop for a bit. It still works. It can have an affect but honestly - I remember now why I don't use it. See what you think and see if it will help in your situation.

You said you were looking to get more of a cranked tone for gigs? I think you will be happier with a 'power soaking' or motor based attenuator (as opposed to resistor based). I'm not an attenuator expert. Sasquatch on the splawn boards is really happy with his attenuator but I forget what he has. Rivera something. The one thing I have learned about attenuators is that you cannot cheap out. I think you need to be spending in the neighborhood of $200-$300+ to get a good one.

The one thing I tried tonight that had a negative affect was just using a patch cable to patch the effects loops. Lot of noise when I did that.

I'd be happy to experiment some more.


Here are the guts of my Omnisonic Volume Box. It is well made and well constructed. I could not pick up the value off it though. It is an Alpha 8D3. From what little research I did I believe that is a 250K pot (very common for something like this). I've seen volume potentiometer values ranging from 50K - 500K so who knows.

Let us know how it works for you Andy. Something like this is not a waste of money so even if you end up selling your Splawn you can still keep this as a second Master. Me thinks.

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andyhatescrass

Just got an email back from Scott, and everything is working the way it is supposed to. The +4 and -10 settings are there for running different pedals, depending if they are made to run line level or instrument level, in the loop; (+4 is line level; -10 is instrument level). I had not known that different units are made to run at different db levels and that clipping/weak tone/buzzing can occur if you run different units on either to high or low db. He also said that the loop matches the output, and there should be a very minimal difference between switching it back and fourth from +4 to -10, it strictly depends on what level the unit in the fx loop is made to run on.

So glad there's nothing wrong. I'll be ordering one of those omnisonic box's this week and will update when I get around to playing with it. I can't thank you enough for taking time out of your day to mess with your fx loop and posting the pic. You rule 311.

mmolteratx

Value would be on the other side. And bah, that's not shielded and/or done remotely like how I'd do it. That solder blob on the back of the pot could fall off at any time. Should've used a metal enclosure and both of those problems would be solved.

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R45VT

Hard to tell from the photo if its flux or not- see the green in the inside of the clear insulation. Corrosion?

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mmolteratx

Looks like he joints were overheated.

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R45VT

Ebay.

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311ZOSOVHJH

Glad I could help. Sounds like you are getting answers from the horses mouth so that's good. Everything sounds real consistent. I hope you get things figured out. You may seriously need to get something like a Rivera Rock Crusher. Matt can tell you more about his if he sees this but they are not cheap. Also, maybe consider getting a better built volume box. I know $20 is not that much so it is fine to experiment but it does what you want maybe consider getting someone to make you a better one or get a something like an Ernie Ball Volume Pedal. I used one of those for a while too. Same concept but better parts and you don't have to reach around behind the amp.

I got mine from the guy that sold me the Splawn. He gigged with it. I doubt I did that.

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andyhatescrass

I may consider an attenuator at some point, but right now, I'd rather just have a well built volume box. I did find a guy who custom builds pedals and one of them happens to be a volume box that goes for $55. Its small and thin, no footswitch, just a knob. What kind of parts go into a decent volume box? Obviously a good pot is necessary. But what sets good ones apart from cheap ebay ones? Would it not always just be jacks connected to a pot?

mmolteratx

Switchcraft jacks, aluminum Hammond enclosure and an Alpha, CTS, PEC or Clarostat pot. Switchcraft jacks are like $1.50 a piece in small quantities, Alpha 25kA pot would be like $1, Hammond enclosure like $8 and wire around $5 for 50ft.

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mmolteratx

Alright, built and tested one and did a tutorial in the 20 minutes since my last post. And half of that time was spent trying to find a pair of jacks in my pile of parts. You can have this one for $30 shipped.

First, gather your parts. You need two jacks (TS or TRS, doesn't matter as you won't be using the ring. I just happened to find two TRS jacks first.), an enclosure and a pot (any value from 25k-500k audio taper will work.)



Then drill your enclosure. 9/32" for the pot, 3/8" for the two jacks.



Populate enclosure.



Wire input tip to lug 3 (hot) of the pot. Wire lug 2 (wiper) of the pot to the output tip. Wire lug 3 (ground) to the sleeve of the output jack.



Screw enclosure shut and throw a knob on.

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Ippon

JesusHChrist Matt.

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