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Old 11-09-2012, 09:35 PM   #21
ragingkitty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathbard
The MXR 10 has a gain control to sort that out.

Turn down the gain on the pedal. If flashing is clipping it will stop when you turn the gain right down won't it? That's the whole point of the gain control, it's there to optimise the signal going into the pedal so you can use it wherever you want to.


Yeah I was aware of that, IIRC the regular MXR10 has an input gain level, whereas the KK10 has input and output controls, but I was just putting that little piece of information out there.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:47 PM   #22
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Here is a link to the FAQ for all interested.

http://www.jimdunlop.com/product/m1...band-graphic-eq


The 10-Band Graphic EQ FAQs
Q: Why do my M108 10-Band Graphic EQ sliders’ lights blink?
A: The sliders blink when the pedal is clipping. Lower the volume on your guitar or with the sliders on the pedal.


And the 10band is Hardwire bypass.

HARDWIRE BYPASS
When you switch an effect off, your guitar signal bypasses the effect’s circuitry. There are a few ways to make this happen. A lot of older pedals use hardwire bypass, which keeps your signal constantly connected to the effect’s input and flowing through its circuitry even when disengaged. It’s with this type of bypass that you get signal degradation from both your cables and effect circuitry, so it only takes a few of these pedals in your chain to drastically change your tone. Few pedals are made this way anymore—at Dunlop, we only use it with certain pedals that are designed to vintage specs, such as those in the MXR Script series.
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Last edited by R45VT : 11-09-2012 at 09:54 PM.
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Old 11-10-2012, 02:20 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R45VT
Yeah the MXR site has the blinking in the FAQ.

Regarding the blinking they say to lower the volume of the guitar or the volume of the pedal. Just an FYI to all.

It's a ****ing 18v pedal you think it could have headroom.


That's what I was thinking. Does anyone with knowledge of pedals know why this is the case? I'm quite curious, as it's been somewhat of a pain for me.
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:53 AM   #24
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I'm sure if you turned the input gain on the pedal down to zero there would be no clipping. That control is there to get some boost for very small inputs (like old s/c pickups for example) and pad down high signals like line level gear (like a keyboard). So if it's turned down it has heaps of headroom. A moderate input being able to be cranked up to where it clips the next stage is a good thing. They are offering you the widest operating range that they can. It's up to you to set the levels correctly, that's why they give you a clip indicator. You find clipping and back it off a little until it stops. Then you adjust the output for unity or boost or whatever it is you are hoping to achieve.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:24 AM   #25
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I used my EQ at practice tonight, infront of my Coupe, and there was not problem!

I don't really understand whats going on. I'm pushing a MUCH stronger signal through the pedal when I use it with my Coupe, so I'm not 100% convienced that its clipping. 90% of the time that I'm using it with my VOX, I have my guitars volume rolled back as well.
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:57 AM   #26
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:18 PM   #27
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So I pulled my MXR 10band out and threw it together. No clipping but I do get a crackling type noise even with no input plugged in, only when the pedal is engaged.

The guitar signal will go through it and drown noise out. When you stop playing the noise is there. I have the PCB out and will probably take a peak at it tomorrow. I wish I had a DSO at home. I can the crackling in the output with my fluke on the mV setting. May start to map out some of the circuit if I don't see anything stupid tomorrow.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:28 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathbard
I'm sure if you turned the input gain on the pedal down to zero there would be no clipping. That control is there to get some boost for very small inputs (like old s/c pickups for example) and pad down high signals like line level gear (like a keyboard). So if it's turned down it has heaps of headroom. A moderate input being able to be cranked up to where it clips the next stage is a good thing. They are offering you the widest operating range that they can. It's up to you to set the levels correctly, that's why they give you a clip indicator. You find clipping and back it off a little until it stops. Then you adjust the output for unity or boost or whatever it is you are hoping to achieve.


See, I didn't realize that's what it was for. I was afraid to mess with the Gain setting with it in my loop, for fear it would f*** with my tone.

I just leave the Volume and Gain sliders at dead center, but maybe I'll mess with them to see if it does have an undesirable effect on my tone. Honestly, I have unity gain as it is, so maybe I'll just leave it the hell alone and not worry about it
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:32 AM   #29
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Unity between input and output is one thing (all that requires is an output volume control), the gain control allows you to level out the signal inside the pedal itself. The aim is to get as much signal into the pedal as you can without any clipping so that everything inside there is running at optimal operating conditions.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:36 AM   #30
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Well I can see the noise with my meter... now to trace down....
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:38 AM   #31
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You have a 'scope don't you?
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:57 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathbard
Unity between input and output is one thing (all that requires is an output volume control), the gain control allows you to level out the signal inside the pedal itself. The aim is to get as much signal into the pedal as you can without any clipping so that everything inside there is running at optimal operating conditions.


So, Ideally, should I have the gain slider cutting as much as possible with the "Send" level on my loop as high as possible without clipping? Would that be better than keeping it centered and having it to where if I'm beating the F*** out of my strings with the guitar volume on 10, it begins to slightly clip? I have the latter set up now, but if it would be more optimal the other way, maybe I'll play with it. In addition, should I be playing with the Volume slider at all in this?
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Old 11-11-2012, 01:44 AM   #33
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You should be chasing unity. You don't want the loop to be anything else either. Setting the send and receive to about halfway and adjusting them both about the same amount until you achieve unity is where I'd start. The pedal should never clip so adjust its gain accordingly once you've set up the amp's loop - then chase unity through the pedal using the output volume. Done.
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Last edited by Cathbard : 11-11-2012 at 01:45 AM.
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:32 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathbard
You have a 'scope don't you?


Sadly no. I have 3 DVOMs. I can tell you that the noise is highest coming out of the DPDT switch... 100mV AC spikes(the wire that runs to the output signal)... I might switch the switch and retest. It think I have a few laying around. Nothing spikes near that coming in to the switch assembly.
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See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:37 AM   #35
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There's no real excuse for not having a scope these days. People are tossing away old CRO's for nothing. I scored one for less than it cost in shipping. It's only 20MHz but that's more than enough for audio.

Off to ebay with you.
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:43 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathbard
There's no real excuse for not having a scope these days. People are tossing away old CRO's for nothing. I scored one for less than it cost in shipping. It's only 20MHz but that's more than enough for audio.

Off to ebay with you.


Prices are cheap.... I'll keep my eyes open and pick one up in the near future. I had an old Snap-On one from Auto's... last time I fired it up the LCD was so dim I couldn't even tell it was on. I forgot to bring it home with me from my parents. Maybe I can find a replacement LCD.

I see some tektronix going for a couple hundred bucks.
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See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:47 AM   #37
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Just keep watching for a few days, you'll see all sorts of shit pass through. Mine was an old government one, an Advance Instruments.
So nothing flash but it was like $20 or something silly.
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:08 AM   #38
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Wow. Thats cheap. I'll keep my eyes peeled.

This damn pedal.... so inconsistent. I found a 2v DC spike leading up to a coupling cap before the switch. It would be nice if it made the noise the whole time...

Found the noise/voltage spike are coming out of the output of Op amp U2....

Voltage supply for U2 is just fine... spike on the input.....

http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datash.../MC33179DG.html
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Originally Posted by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.

Last edited by R45VT : 11-11-2012 at 04:18 AM.
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:40 AM   #39
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I am ******ed. Not sure why I couldnt find the schematic before...

http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/...xr_eq10_v10.png

and it doesn't match.
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Originally Posted by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.

Last edited by R45VT : 11-11-2012 at 05:16 AM.
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:59 AM   #40
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And I bet that the chips aren't socketed either are they?
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