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#21 | |
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Lost in the Twilight Zone
Join Date: Dec 2011
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Quote:
My first paintjob was a Dragon Skin with a sunburst. I decided to do that paint job for one simple reason, I could not find a single reference to anyone else having done one. I'm sure someone has tried it before. They would almost have to have tried it. But the lack of any evidence that it had been done is what made up my mind. It was a stupid thing to do. I knew nothing about what i was doing. I was terrified I was goign to screw it up. It's awsome. I do not use that word lightly. |
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#22 | |
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Please, call me Pig.
Join Date: May 2010
Location: USA
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Well I'm glad it worked out for you, but I think most everyone should hear out the opposition before making a decision like this. I know I'd be annoyed if I asked for an opinion on something and everyone held their tongue for fear of being a naysayer. |
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#23 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Just stain the thing with WINE and post pics so people will stop WHINING already.
__________________
Danelectro Longhorn guitar build: http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/foru...d.php?t=1564392 |
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#24 | |
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Lost in the Twilight Zone
Join Date: Dec 2011
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Quote:
+1 |
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#25 |
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Lost in the Twilight Zone
Join Date: Dec 2011
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Ya know...
If wine works out, it just raises more questions... For example.... What about Jack Daniels? |
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#26 | |
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Please, call me Pig.
Join Date: May 2010
Location: USA
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Quote:
That's an expensive stain! Or what about a br00tz guitar stained with lamb's blood?! |
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#27 | ||
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UG's Krabby Patty
Join Date: May 2009
Location: mordor
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Quote:
If you thought that would be expensive try Scotch...
__________________
Call me Chris ![]() Quote:
Ducks and guitars or fish and guitars. I lead a simple existence |
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#28 | |
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UG's roaming amp builder
Join Date: Oct 2006
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I say go for it. I find it's fun trying something out for the sake of trying it out, not that it makes more or less sense. Dare to be different, it's more entertaining that way.
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__________________
Quote:
Member of the official GB&C "Who to Listen to" list Kit Amp Building Tutorial |
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#29 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
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The other thing is, if you do it and it works, you can write a song about it.
__________________
Danelectro Longhorn guitar build: http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/foru...d.php?t=1564392 |
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#30 |
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Kickin' it....
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Adelaide, South Australia.
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It's funny that you should finally say "just do it so everyone can stop talking about it"
I left this thread a while ago as I stopped getting notifications, just found it again to notice a whole bunch of people say "yeah go for it, **** what everyone else says" and whatnot... all of a sudden everyone is agreeing that it should be tried. Funny... Alas, I went out and bought some furniture stain because I was desperate and couldn't find anything else. Haven't used it yet, but since re-finding this thread I might just try the wine. To get the record straight, by the way... I wasn't asking about using wine because it would be cheaper, I was asking to see if it would work or if anyone had tried it before (and if they got good or bad results). I figured a real red wine stain would be authentic and unique. Sure, stains designed for guitars are gonna work and wine might not... but that's exactly why I posted this thread. Thanks for the comments though, I'll try it out on some wood and see what happens... will post photos (if I remember to). One does not simply use wine for decorative purposes without drinking most of it ![]() |
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#31 |
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This is my custom title.
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Use wine!
Forget these people telling you it's a stupid idea.. I don't think they even know what rock and roll is about! I like this wine idea... I already use real blood and the like in my paintings. |
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#32 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Wine will stain it; I don't know how well. though. But, since it's mostly water, it'll raise up the grain a bit, too.
Over the years, I've tried water-based stains a few times on other projects and every time it raised the grain on the wood, necessitating more sanding and yet another stain coat. It's a vicious circle. I'd go with regular, old, oil-based woodstain. Last edited by woad_yurt : 11-27-2012 at 06:23 AM. |
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#33 | |
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Kickin' it....
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Adelaide, South Australia.
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Yeah I had a think about the water content thing... that'd mean I'd probably have to use a water-based lacquer too, right? I'm not sure... I've already bought some wood stains from a hardware store and some polyurethane lacquer, gonna give it a go on some scraps and see what works best. Might still try the wine thing on some off cuts but will have to rethink the lacquer. What do you reckon about staining with a dark stain (black japan), sanding back and restaining with a red (mahogany)? Someone suggested that to me as the black will bring out the grain more and give it some cool patterns |
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#34 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
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I'd mix the stains and then wipe. Test it on a scrap until you get your color.
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#35 |
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Lost in the Twilight Zone
Join Date: Dec 2011
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Ok, I'm just going to throw this out there...
What if you reduced the water content of the wine somehow? Distillation comes to mind. You obviously don't want to remove all of it, but wouldn't a reduction of half the water result in a little less sanding and possibly a richer color? |
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#36 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
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You'd then need to add a solvent or you'd be just smearing too-thick stuff around. Once you add a solvent, you'd have regular, ol' traditional stain but of a very, very low quality.
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#37 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Hope, BC Canada
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Wine reduces easily by simple boiling, distillation is overkill. I don't suggest a full boil, just simmer it gently. The alcohol will boil off first, at about 173 F, then it will stop boiling until it gets up to water's boiling point, 212 F. Because its not pure water the exact temperature will be a bit different. But we don't care about that stuff, right? we just want most of the water gone. It will take 30-45 minutes to reduce one bottle of wine. It will be somewhat faster if you boil it harder, but if you're not paying attention (and who can sit and watch things boil for more than a few minutes?) you can make a mess.
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#38 | |
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Time for a revolution
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: SC
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Quote:
So doing this. ![]() |
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#39 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Somerset,UK
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The major pigment in red wine is anthocyanin. On exposure to air and ultra-violet light it will oxidise and turn brown, it will also fade. This is why red wine is always stored in coloured bottles. If you want a brown guitar with natural pigments coffee or tea would do it better. If you want it stained with anthocyanin then beetroot or red cabbage would do it better as it has more pigment. Anthocyanin is an indicator pigment like litmus and is only red in acid conditions so it will give different colours with different woods, but it will still fade and go brown.
Depending upon the wood the water will raise the surface grain but that can be sanded back after. The wood will have a 10-20% water content anyway so once it has dried the wine will make no difference to the finishing. |
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