Ippon

Is anybody willing to enlighten the rest of the peasants about the differences between the Red stripe vs. Purple, Black, Blue, etc.?

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dementiacaptain

That would actually be pretty great. Also, can any mark III run EL34s on the outer pair, or only certain ones?

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ibanezguitars44

There used to be a site about it. I can't find it.

This is from the grail tone forums:

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Just going from memory, as I have not documented any of this stuff on paper;

The "no stripe" black dot black plus: This is the one with the original CP-30 PCB ( this is by memory remember so I may get some of the numbers a little wrong) which is pretty much like the published schematic. The major differences in the stripes concern the R2 circuit. The R2 circuit in the black dot is just like the schematic. and C30 was 500pf in the lead circuit.

The "Purple stipe" Saw a redesigned PCB, the CP-31 (I think) Here were the major changes to the R2 circuit: There was another LDR added which switched in a .47uf cap on the cathode of V2a giving it more gain. The tone stack was lifted, via the relay, (this is unique only to the purple stripe and reminesent of the original MkI "pull boost") this also adds a little more gain hitting V1b but gives the R2 of the purple stripe more of a blurry feel. C30 was also 500pf in the purple.

The "Red Stripe" saw C30 return to the 1000pf cap like the C+. The R2 was restructured basically by using the relay leg to kick in the 750uf cap on top of the tone stack instead of "lifting" the stack by un-grounding the mid control. This is like the "pull shift" of the lead circuit kick in automatically for the R2 giving it a much more focused mid feel.

The "Blue Stripe" remove the C30 cap altogether, giving it the most raw and aggressive lead. IIRC the 120pf was put across the grid and cathode of V2b (ala C+) to tame some of this. The power supply voltages to the preamp stages were manipulated on some by changing the resistors between nodes A, B and C.

The "Green Stripe" of course is "basically" a Blue with Pentode wiring on the simul output pair. A few very subtle changes in cathode caps and tone bleed caps which are becoming esoteric at this point. Mostly to compensate for the also subtle variation in production tubes available at given times.

Hope this is of some help, again this is all from memory and subject to error.

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Basically the black stripe is the original version. And then they made slight tweaks along the way to improve/tweak

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dementiacaptain

Nice, good info. So the further back in the changes the model is, the closer to the C+ it is?

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Cathbard

I looked for that too. It used to be on the Wikipedia page about Marks but it seems to have been deleted.

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dementiacaptain

I hate to keep bumping this, but does anybody have an answer to my question about running EL34s?

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Ippon

Yes, but for the Simulclass models only. See the last page, last pic: http://www.mesaboogie.com/manuals/Mark%20III.pdf

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dementiacaptain

Sweet thanks. Now I think mine has simul class, it has a switch going that has simul and class A as the selections, but it has 4 6L6s in it now and I'm pretty sure the previous had run it in simul mode. Anything to worry about it? I've been running in class A

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R45VT

Its less efficient, more heat, shorter tube life.

That being said class A has a warmth to it. May not be desirable for the lead channel(rhythm).

If it has a built in fan make sure you are running it.

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Ippon

Class A is outer pair tubes only. Simulclass is all 4 power tubes.

Note: They now recommend EL34s for the outer pair, 6L6s for the inner pair.

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dementiacaptain

So would it be safe to run it in simul with EL34s and 6L6s? Pretty much just trying to get a feel for what I can and can't dude

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R45VT

http://www.mesaboogie.com/manuals/Mark%20III.pdf

This is the "Class A/Simul-Class" switch or the "60/100" watt switch, depending on amplifier type. In the Simul-Class amplifiers the power (before clip) is much less in the Class A position - mere 15 watts. But the unique way the system is wired allows you to achieve a much greater degree of power tube distortion than with most other amplifiers ... and it is still very loud! In Class A, only the outside (outer left & outer right) pair of tubes - the EL-34's will be on. The inner pair - which are 6L6's - will also be turned on when the switch is in the Simul-Class position. In addition to this obvious difference, the biasing and control circuitry of the socket pairs are radically different ... and this is the heart of the now famous (and patented) Simul-Class circuitry. It is worth noting that almost all of the major players who have gone over to Boogie have chosen the Simul-Class power design!
NOTE: In the past, MESA/Boogie advertised the "interchangeable power tubes" feature of the Mark III Simul-Class. We told players that they could use either EL-34's or 6L6's in the outer (Class A) power sockets. However, in recent years we've observed a much greater reliability factor with the use of EL-34's in these outer sockets, with much fewer incidents of tube failure. Therefore, today we strongly recommend using EL-34's in the outer sockets and 6L6's in the inner sockets of your Simul-Class Boogie.

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Cathbard

Yeah, just run the 6L6's in the middle and you'll be sweet.

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Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Marshall 1960A

Cathbard Amplification

dementiacaptain

Ok I got it now. Well I guess I will throw my space pair of 34s in there. Thanks guys!

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311ZOSOVHJH

Really awesome Jon!

HNMKIIID

I saw your thread several time via cell phone but was travel and just now had a chance to sit down and enjoy this NAD properly

I can't find that web site either but I know the one you are talking about. Looks like you are in good hands now. Can't wait to hear your report on teh EL34's being in there.


Also, this:
http://ampspecs.com/amps.php?amp=Mesa%20boogie&ID=82

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dementiacaptain

Alright, so I put some JJ E34Ls in the Mark III, and I have had some time to really crank it. This amp is really just gorgeous for chunky rhythms, The chunkiest sound I have ever had. This thing is ridiculously loud as well. I don't think I like the 34s in this amp however, I want this to be a bit more modern and the 34s are making the midrange a little too crunchy, it is a subtle difference but enough of one. Would I do any damage to the amp running 6L6s in all 4 spots? I know I will eat up tubes, but I would be okay with that.

I would be interested if any one has any suggestions for a nice clear lead tone as far as my EQ, I am having trouble getting the perfect balance of sustain and clarity, but I realize that this is a Mark we are talking about, so it could take awhile.

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311ZOSOVHJH

someone may kill me for saying this but what about an EQ pedal in the loop?

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dementiacaptain

Don't worry, that was the first thing I thought I just recently got rid of mine as I never used it any more, I will get one again eventually, but I would really like to try to get it done without it, I mean, I have a few options with this bad boy built in.

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R45VT

The damn mark series takes time. Every now and again I flip mine on it sound muddy. I have to mess with it again. Found out my damn cat was moving the knobs.... bastard. They really are picky amps. My Krankenstein slays with any setting for distortion. Complete contrast.

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