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Old 01-22-2013, 11:09 AM   #1
Deledhel
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Join Date: Dec 2011
1st Project: Superstrat refurbish

Hello GB&C

I am in need of your advice as I am about to embark in my very first project ever.

I have a white white white ~80s Hondo Superstrat (HH,vol&tone,3-way,6-screws vintage tremolo, bolt-on) which I decided I want to pimp.

Why I want to do it:
1)It will be a fun and useful/educational experience
2)The guitar is of sentimental value but has considerable playability problems (tuning stability, intonation, crappy pups)
3)It probably is the loudest unplugged electric I've ever played. The thing resonates/sustains like a beast.

The plan is to rebuild it into a single splittable humbucker superstrat (with series/parallel switching if possible).

List of things I will probably buy (open to suggestions):
Neck
Graphtech nut
Tremolo (Wilkinson)
Grover Machineheads
Pickguard
Roller Tree (will I need one?)
Toggle-switch
Knobs
Color (silver)
Neck plate
Primer
Τhe desired outcome:
A silver, with black accessories, superstrat, with a single humbucker.

Questions:
1)Any specific/specialized tool I am going to sorely need? I ll probably do most of the sanding/stripping by hand.
2)In terms of finishing, will I need a clear-coat to apply after the color? The neck is unfinished and I like as lightly finished as possible necks (feel-wise) what do I use to do it?
3)Will I have to fill the neck-bucker hole?

The cost is under 300 euros at the moment. I ll probably get a Holydiver with a "silvery" cover for the pup.

Sorry for the wall of text
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:47 PM   #2
Deledhel
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Ermmm... Nobody??!? I am kinda sad now, was expecting to return from work and find at least some answers
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:15 PM   #3
MG_Sora
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1.- You might want to read a bit about stripping a guitar finish. It's not nearly as fun as it sounds, really, specially not sanding it. It is totally doable, but might want to get a palm sander, or something that keeps the sandpaper from bending, which can result in uneven scratches and wavy surfaces that stick out like a sore thumb with glossy finishes.

There are many options for stripping finishes, see what suits your skills the most.

2.- This is just personal preference, mostly. I like to get a clear coat after the paint to get a smoother surface, and to make the finish look good for longer. You might want to try in a scrap piece of wood first to see if you like it, though.

Some finishes actually REQUIRE you to get a clear coat, I'm not entirely sure how common it is on your country, but here DuPont, for example, sells a type of paint that is matte when applied, so you need to get a coat of something on top to seal it. We call it "Lacquer" (literal translation) but I doubt that the term means the same on English speaking countries.

Said paint is at least twice as expensive over here, so it's not like you'll walk in a store and get the wrong one by accident. In any case, I insist, try the paint you buy in a piece of whatever you have in hand and see how it looks.

What most people forget is that a clear coat doesn't necessarily means it has to be a thick, glossy coat. There are a bunch of finishes available out there, glossy, satin, matte, just to name a few.

As for the neck, there are really something best. Some folks prefer a satin finish because it feels faster than a glossy one, but there are a lot of ways to finish a neck, just do a little research and you'll see what I mean.

3.- You don't HAVE to, but you might want to. It won't affect dick.
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Last edited by MG_Sora : 01-22-2013 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:23 PM   #4
Explorerbuilder
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Tip #1,
DO NOT STRIP THE FINISH ALL THE WAY DOWN TO WOOD. Since you are repainting, you can just scuff sand to 400 grit, then apply primer over that.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:24 PM   #5
R45VT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Explorerbuilder
Tip #1,
DO NOT STRIP THE FINISH ALL THE WAY DOWN TO WOOD. Since you are repainting, you can just scuff sand to 400 grit, then apply primer over that.


x100000


Also tape the neck pocket off and do not add any paint there. Otherwise the neck won't fit proper.
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:54 PM   #6
ibanez2011
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If you do want to strip it down to the wood (which I wouldn't recommend) I would get a heat gun. It makes stripping the paint off a lot easier and faster
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:20 PM   #7
Deledhel
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Stripping might tell me the wood type, but other than is there any other reason that somebody would want to do it to apply a solid color afterwards?

On the subject of neck finish:
The site that I linked has this (danish oil). Is this the equivalent of Tru Oil?

Will probably go with cellulose laquer, mat gloss to finish the body, but for curiosity's sake, how does a solid colored body look finished with oil?

I don't think this guitar is shielded (at least the tremolo-cavity certainly isn't ). Should I shield it?

Again thanks a lot for your time and your answers.
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:33 PM   #8
sytharnia1560
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chances are the body is plywood so a new neck should be behind "new body"
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:39 AM   #9
RebuildIt
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I think you will find that a new neck changes the guitar a lot. Probably more than you like. If you like a clean feeling neck, sand it down to the wood and do Nothing. I have one that I did
like that and it is the fastest thing I have ever played. (Univox strat in my pictures)
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:10 PM   #10
NortonDevon
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So if you are trying to repaint a guitar with a set neck a solid color. Then you should then just sand it down to the primer, and then repaint it with the fretboard taped.

Does this sound correct?
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