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Old 02-28-2013, 05:49 PM   #21
\m/slipknot\m/
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I modified my the jig I use to clean up a fret board's radius.


A problem I had was sanding to low on the corners because the sanding block was able to dip off the edge of the board at the ends. This resulted in alot more work to get everything level and perfect. Now I have added a rail which its the final height of the fretboards edge. This acts as a fence and wont let the sanding block go down farther then I want it to. I do trim the sand paper so that wood of the sanding block will hit the rails without cuting them


The top rail is moveable so you can adjust it for different length boards using the hold down clamp. This keeps it nice and snug while you sand.




Cut the string threw holes






necks have been cut
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Old 02-28-2013, 05:50 PM   #22
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:39 AM   #23
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:28 PM   #24
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This carving stuff is taking a lot longer then I had originally thought and the maple is tough to work with but I am happy with how they are turning out so its worth the extra time. Still have more carving to do but heres what I have so far.








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Old 03-11-2013, 04:29 PM   #25
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:13 AM   #26
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These are looking drop dead gorgeous, love the hand carving. Did you use just the little chisel for everything?
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:24 AM   #27
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I used that chisel, a bastard file, a DA, and rubber spindles from my occulating sander with 80grit on them. Its not the quickest way but it works. I cant imagine doing such in depth carving by hand for every build, vik must have a quicker way to do it or an unlimited supply of patience.
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:27 PM   #28
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Also, i just figured out what you meant in a previous build thread about your mdf hack for routing the neck pocket, and may i say its quite genius. I'm totally stealing it for the next build i do.
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:30 AM   #29
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^Do it man. If something in my posts will make your life easier, then by all mean go for it!
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:24 PM   #30
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Wanted to make sure the straplock wouldnt just rip out of the thin horn so I burried it a bit





All carves are now roughed in, still needs a bit of clean up but the hard parts done







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Old 03-14-2013, 05:19 PM   #31
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Nice, I really like the figure on the fretboard and on the back of the body!
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:28 PM   #32
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Hey, turns out he does hand carve everything.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...&type=1&theater
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:11 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyleisthename
Hey, turns out he does hand carve everything.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...&type=1&theater


Thats crazy, but now that I have sat back and thought about it, its not so bad. yeah it takes awhile but the results you can get from it are beautiful.

Figured out the colors for the seven and duality based guitar on some scrap wood

seven- version of a lagoon burst, blue to natural burst


duality- red/pink to violet burst
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Old 03-20-2013, 03:01 AM   #34
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WOW!!!!
love it!
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:44 AM   #35
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I was worried about getting the carve in the quilted maple perfectly smooth because of the grain pattern sanding at different speeds and coming out bumpy. I checked out my dads body work supplies and found he had some stiff durablock foam/rubber sanding blocks. He was nice enough to let me use them for a bit and I gotta say they worked great! The tops are dead flat and the carves are as smooth as can be. I was sad to have to return the blocks so I went on amazon a found a 7 peice set for about $34. This may or may not seem expensive to you but after testing them I think its worth the price. They will last a very long time (my dad has had the same set for years even though hes working and sanding multiple cars/parts daily).

This is the only set I found at this price, the others are $45 and up for the same blocks. Theres 17 left in stock so if youre interested check it out soon!

http://www.amazon.com/Dura-Block-Af...words=durablock
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Old 03-22-2013, 04:31 PM   #36
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Frets, side dots, truss covers, and rough neck carves








My sig will be on the truss cover on this one because theres not much room else where on the headstock


Ebony raven inlaid to compliment the ebony buckers and other black hardware
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:33 PM   #37
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These things are looking ridiculously professional. You're doing a sick job.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:52 AM   #38
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Thanks dude!^

I just found these cutter heads while looking into wood engraving stuff. If any one does really intricate inlays but dosnt want to pay twenty bucks per bit from stew mac, this sight has a set of 10 very tiny bits for $15. I have not tried them as of yet but I think I will due to how inexpensive they are. Stewmacs smallest bit is 1/32nd (.8mm) while this set includes .7mm and .6mm so you can get even more detailed cuts. Hopefully this can save some one a few bucks!
http://www.profitablehobbiesstore.c...t-bur-set-3/32/
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:43 PM   #39
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i dunno, burrs arent exactly designed for removing material. they more are just supposed to grab leftover bits of metal shavings still attached to a previously milled piece, and then fling them off.

you may get a lot of fuzz, broken bits and maybe burning if you try to mill too much with these.

for 15 bucks tho, it wont hurt.



but carbide downcut bits are where its at.
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:28 AM   #40
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The main draw to these thing for me was the size. I'm trying to get more intricate/exact with inlays and some times the 1/32nd is just too big. I'm hoping they will be able to handle cutting thin lines and cleaning up points so I can do more accurate lettering or stuff like this


I'll giv'em a shot and let you guys know how they do
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