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Old 07-10-2013, 08:20 PM   #21
Lavatain
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Came here for pictures of an amp that went kaboom-ey and a sorry soul looking for advice on a new amp that won't blow up
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:20 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by psrj32
My questions are,

1. Could this have been a power issue at the venue?
2. Could my amp have over heated? Should I stick a fan behind it? (it was a little warm in the bar. The vents were quite warm to the touch.)
3. Could this be a potential tube issue?

(I'm looking for legitimate answers here, so please no fire extinguishers or "because its a Bugera.)


1.) It is highly unlikely that it was a power issue in the venue's electrical system. If it had been, then in all likelihood everyone's amp and electric-powered gear would have shut down simultaneously. If it was just your amp, then it was almost certainly not a power failure in the wall sockets. Normally when a tube amplifier suddenly dies, the likely culprit is a blown fuse. But if it had been a blown fuse, then the amp should not have started working again without replacing that fuse.

2.) I suppose your amplifier could have overheated. If so, it might very well shut down unexpectedly, and work again after the heat had dissipated. If this is what happened, you should have the amplifier checked to see why it overheated, and if it is a problem in need of correction. At any rate, a small and powerful fan is always a good idea with a tube amp.

3.) A number of things can go wrong with tubes, but what you are describing does not seem like the culprit. Bugera does not choose the best tubes on the market, so it is still worth investigating.

In the end, your best course of action is to have a competent amplifier technician open her up and see what is going on inside the amp. Your problem is most likely a component failure, but only someone who knows their way around your model of Bugera is going to isolate the problem. Given Bugera's less-than-enviable reputation for QC, my first suspicion is a component failure.

Good luck. Bugera (and it's hell-spawn parent Behringer) dederve their poor reputations. You should loook for a better amplifier despite the eventual resolution (or lack thereof) of your problem.

May you find the answer, Grasshopper.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:12 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lavatain
Came here for pictures of an amp that went kaboom-ey and a sorry soul looking for advice on a new amp that won't blow up


+ 311

I came expecting pictures, stories and a cease and desist order for Bugera.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arby911
it's just that Bugera is the 'flavor of the month' to pick on and some of their employees have made incredibly stupid statements here and elsewhere that fueled the hate.


Flavour of the month? No more like a brand trait. From my experience with products, any product that enters a market faulty from the get-go will basically never shed the bad reputation that eventually results. In 10 years time, Bugera can be making amps that are built like fortress and never break down, but people will always have that "Bugeras are unreliable" impression.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:42 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragingkitty
+ 311

I came expecting pictures, stories and a cease and desist order for Bugera.



Flavour of the month? No more like a brand trait. From my experience with products, any product that enters a market faulty from the get-go will basically never shed the bad reputation that eventually results. In 10 years time, Bugera can be making amps that are built like fortress and never break down, but people will always have that "Bugeras are unreliable" impression.


+311. even if the wasn't typical bugera behavior, its not a bad batch that is an isolated incident.

when is the last time you have heard a "mesa exploded" thread, or "orange", or "marshall" or "peavey"? at least in the last few years/decades [in general].

nothing has really been fixed. they say they are doing things, but i haven't seen conclusive evidence.
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:16 PM   #25
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yes Mesa, and others have similar technology - but I thought Infinium was supposed to detect problems and adjust the bias and warn the users wit lights.

in this case it just stopped making noise period. like a fuse cutting out or something. i blamed the chip but i really have no idea

shrug
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:34 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrockz
I've nothing but bad things about Bugera even from my amp trch who says they are junk. I have two Marshall JCM 900's from the late 1990's and have never changed the tubes and they sound great! I've left them on standby before for an hour or so and have never had a problem. I would look around for a used Marshall then have it checked out by an amp tech to make sure everything works right and buy two if you have the money, always good to have a back up.


I have had my 333XL since 2006 i gig weekly and rehearse weekly and i have not had a problem..... you suggest to buy 2 Marshall's why would you need a back up if your amp is so reliable....
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:42 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Talon64
I have had my 333XL since 2006 i gig weekly and rehearse weekly and i have not had a problem..... you suggest to buy 2 Marshall's why would you need a back up if your amp is so reliable....


Nice logic.

You ALWAYS have a back up. What if there is a power surge? Or someone steps on the cable and breaks it off in the input jack?

Glad to know your POS Peavey ripoff still works.
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:14 AM   #28
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My Valveking and Vypyr were both rock solid for who gives a ****. Both made in China. I think the 6505+112 is also. But like R45VT said.......sooooo what?

But yeah. Tubes can blow at the weirdest points.

If a tube blows a screen grid resistor that could shut the whole thing down.. But would not explain it coming back on with no problem. Nay?
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:42 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 311ZOSOVHJH
My Valveking and Vypyr were both rock solid for who gives a ****. Both made in China. I think the 6505+112 is also. But like R45VT said.......sooooo what?

But yeah. Tubes can blow at the weirdest points.

If a tube blows a screen grid resistor that could shut the whole thing down.. But would not explain it coming back on with no problem. Nay?


Just speaking in general, i would like the amp inoperable and repairable. rather intermittent because once it happens once you never will know when. ( this is speaking beyond anything relating to any tube amp).

Warranty hopefully will be your best bet.
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:50 AM   #30
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^ so you are saying that the shut down is a good thing to protect your tubes and amp?

makes sense

you are wanted in the WTLT BTW
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:21 AM   #31
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Came in expecting a filter cap that was put in backwards, left disappointed.
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:18 AM   #32
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I talked to Bugera warranty department. What concerns me, are some of their policies. Since it is an "intermittant" issue, they may or may not find an issue. If they don't find an issue, they slap me with shipping back home and "labor costs." :-/

They have made some minor improvments over the last couple of years. For one, my model does NOT have the molex connector that likes to burn.. they soldered directly to the board.

Obviously they aren't perfect amps, but hopefully are on their way.
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:25 AM   #33
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Was hoping for pics of shrapnel everywhere. Thread does not deliver.
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:34 PM   #34
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Well, I opened up my Bugera, and it was actually a lot neater and clean than i expected. Maybe they do use junk parts, but at least they organize everything nice and pretty.

Either way, EVERYTHING seems normal. I don't know a whole lot about amp internals, but I know my fair share on electricity and components etc. in general.

Every joint looks excellent, no signs of heat. I did have a ground cable that was pretty darn loose, so I snugged it up.

In a week or so I will be ordering some JJ e34l's and Electro Harmonix 12ax7's. Based on the research I have done and some advice here, these seem like good choices.

Still haven't had any more issues, and I have been going out of my way in attempt to cause an issue. Hopefully this will get me fixed up until Oct. when I'll be buying the Egnater!
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:31 PM   #35
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I came here expecting to see some real Buger-y carnage and you didn't even have a blowup

Bad venue electricity could do that, saw a guy in one of the bands opening for me blow a full set of EL34s in his brand new Triple Rectifier. I loaned him my amp, which incidentally was also tube but connected through my Juice Goose power converter.
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:48 PM   #36
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It would probably be a good idea to get ahold of a power conditioner. It is something that I have thought about many times over the years, but keep putting it off and using my "surge protecting" power strip.

I have never heard of the Juice Goose until now, but it appears to be affordable and has excellent reviews. Maybe I'll check that out.
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:55 PM   #37
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I'd say get one regardless - paid about $50 for the Juice Goose, it saved my hide a few times and cleaned up the signal. Tube equipment behaves rather oddly in old venues with bad electricity, I've had changes in sound during a gig and quite a few friends have blown fuses and tubes. Sounds like your case your amp was designed properly (can't believe I am saying that for Bugger-a) and it handled the situation with minimum damage. Do a few rehearsals and see how it fares, my guess would be bad venue electricity, not the tubes caused the issue. Keep on bringing that spare head just in case
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:59 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psrj32
It would probably be a good idea to get ahold of a power conditioner. It is something that I have thought about many times over the years, but keep putting it off and using my "surge protecting" power strip.

I have never heard of the Juice Goose until now, but it appears to be affordable and has excellent reviews. Maybe I'll check that out.

You could even get a nice Furman conditioner for even less on craigslist. I won't play anywhere without one. My amps are too valuable.
The loose ground you found could cause all of the symptoms described. I've worked as a mechanic/shop foreman for Mercedes Benz for years, & I've seen loose grounds cause numerous oddball intermittent problems that took days or weeks to locate. Let us know if your problem comes back. I'd be curious to know. Good luck!
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:16 PM   #39
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I found a nice Furman conditioner at a decent price on zzounds. After plugging into it I noticed a huge difference in hum/buzz at home.

I agree about the ground, I worked as a Chrysler mechanic for 2 years, and not work with manufacturing equipment. A bad ground has kicked my ass many times.
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Old 09-13-2013, 12:35 PM   #40
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What i do know about the 333Xl's is that if your Bias is wrong of coarse you can generate way to much heat, and if you are on standby to long the heat probably triggered the sensor in the amp causing it to loose the Crunch and distortion.

These amp do this. Go back to clean channel and it should work. If it does it is just running to hot. Get some air to it and keep it cooler. If the problem still continues then I would re-bias the amp. as the number gets lower the amp runs hotter as you raise the Ma it runs cooler but this does affect you overall sound as you know. To much and you amp goes tighter, cooler and sterile the other way it goes fizzy, hotter and less defined.

Again if it happens again return to clean channel to see if it works. If it does it is just triggering the sensor inside saying it is to hot. when you reengage the Crunch or Lead it will trigger again..
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