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Old 02-14-2014, 01:46 PM   #1
Velcro Man
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Severe fretbuzz

I think I gave this ASG motorhead guitar a positive review too soon...problems keep appearing like ants. My latest issues is that no matter what I do, the D and g strings have fretbuzz all the way up and down the neck. It seems that the frets themselves are contoured (and slightly coming out of the fretboard, or at least i can slightly see under them) but the bridge isn't at all. the low e string is way higher than it should be and still the action isn't high enough for these ****ed up frets. Some frets sound normal, but at at least half in random places fret out really badly. Not at all happy, it was free and all, but ****, really starting to t

Really starting to take back my recommendation for this company :/

Would it be the frets or the bridge? Did it just get irreparably damaged during shipping?

It's not the truss rod, the neck has plenty of the right kind of bend, but it seems the problem areas are where the truss rod makes no difference, holding it in the air with the low E facing you, the neck is kind of in this shape: ( with each end being the first fret or two and the other where the body meets the neck at around the 14th fret, these are both areas with the most fret buzz, and as i said, the action is already higher than it should be.

Last edited by Velcro Man : 02-14-2014 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:55 PM   #2
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Nothing is irreparably damaged unless the wood is warped and if that was caused by shipping it could unwarp in time (happened to me).

Look up how to check if fret is high (checking is easy) do that to determine if that is your problem and then make your next move.

Also frets are always contoured to the radius of the fretboard.

Last edited by MegadethFan18 : 02-14-2014 at 01:56 PM.
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:58 PM   #3
Velcro Man
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The fretboard isn't contoured though, it's just the frets. All the frets looks even while looking down the neck, can't see one that looks higher than the rest, really.
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Old 02-14-2014, 02:01 PM   #4
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You need to take this guitar to a luthier for setup if you can't do your own. Sounds to me like your action is low and you need to raise the strings up some, maybe adjust the bridge height, possibly a neck tension tweak.
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Old 02-14-2014, 02:05 PM   #5
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I can do set ups just fine, the neck was bent to hell when i received it, had to adjust the truss rod quite a bit, from looking at it; it should play fine. The action is already higher than action should be.
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Old 02-14-2014, 02:09 PM   #6
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So you're saying that the frets themselves are all coming out of the fingerboard? Can you conform that for sure?

That would suck.

The only real solution for that (if that is the case) is to actually take all the frets out and glue them into the slots, and then re-dress the frets. If you shop around though, it might not cost as much as you'd think. I had a quote once for a full level and dress from a local music shop at 45. It'll cost more than that to also have the frets removed and glued in, but I can't see it costing that much more if there is nothing wrong with the original fretwire.
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Old 02-14-2014, 02:14 PM   #7
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I was afraid of that, as my current financial situation goes, i'm struggling to keep my bank account from being overdrawn by netflix, spending anything on a guitar repair just isn't possible for awhile, I'm just going to try to sell it on craigslist. Avoid Artist Series Guitars unless you don't mind low quality control I 'spose.

To be more specific, the frets that buzz are the first fret and 11-16, the frets around them aren't nearly as bad, but still sound a bit choked. The areas where they're the worst are tha parts that the truss doesn't effect.

As for them coming out, it's like, both sides of the fret are all the way in, but the middle comes up enough to see under. The frets have more contour than the fretboard.

The more I look at it, it seems that there's a bulge right where the necks the body, it has that tilt, but at the 16th fret, the tilt increases too much, raising it up just slightly enough to **** everything. Just very poor workmanship all around on this guitar, bad binding, messy glue, ****ed neck, weird frets. Hell, you'd think their prize guitar for sponsoring would be fixed up to be better than anything else in the series to represent the company >_> oh well, i guess if you want a guitar to hang on the wall and not play, you've found your company

Last edited by Velcro Man : 02-14-2014 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 02-14-2014, 04:39 PM   #8
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Why don't you talk with the manufacturer? Maybe they'll ship new neck or attempt repair.
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Old 02-14-2014, 05:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diabolical
Why don't you talk with the manufacturer? Maybe they'll ship new neck or attempt repair.


I won it from UG, so no warranty of any time, they might would do it anyway, but I'd be without a guitar for awhile, had to trade my other guitar yesterday.
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velcro Man
The fretboard isn't contoured though, it's just the frets. All the frets looks even while looking down the neck, can't see one that looks higher than the rest, really.


You won't be able to see a high/low fret, we are talking tiny measurements you have to feel for it by putting a flat object over 3 frets and if it rocks (and it won't rock much) you've got a high/low fret. A high fret is an easy fix but a low fret is either a level and crowning or replacing the low fret, and then level/crowning it.

If none of the frets work it may also be that the nut slots are cut too low on the strings you mentioned. I just got a guitar that had a couple of dead frets and the D string slot was too low. What happens when you play the strings open?

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So you're saying that the frets themselves are all coming out of the fingerboard? Can you conform that for sure?

That would suck.

The only real solution for that (if that is the case) is to actually take all the frets out and glue them into the slots, and then re-dress the frets. If you shop around though, it might not cost as much as you'd think. I had a quote once for a full level and dress from a local music shop at 45. It'll cost more than that to also have the frets removed and glued in, but I can't see it costing that much more if there is nothing wrong with the original fretwire.


If they weren't fully seated all that needs to be done is seat them properly (fret hammer is the easiest way) and then probably a level and crowning.
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:25 PM   #11
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I've adjusted it a bit more and removed the fretbuzz in the middle of the fretboard, but the action is a bit high and there's just absolutely terrible fretbuzz on the first fret with the D and G strings. If I bend the note, it loses the fret buzz, it seems like the first fret is flatter than the rest, the middle not being as contoured, it might be the nut, but i don't really have the tools to fix that issue.

The weird thing is, it didn't USED to have fretbuzz on the first fret.
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:44 PM   #12
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The fret can be high/low across the entire height of the fret. So for example the 12th fret e and B strings might be fine but the other strings are dead, you have to check the entire fret. The truss rod being too tight can flat out kill some frets regardless of if they are level, I've over tightened and it killed the first 5 frets on every string.

The best way to check if the nut is too low is to play an open string if it has huge buzz it's too low, on the guitar I mentioned the open D was almost completely dead even through an amp. It might be possible to shim the nut up, (which I did) but I'll get another one of eBay next time I'm ordering stuff. Nut removal is simple and requires stuff you likely have lying around the house, there are some videos on YouTube.
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:51 PM   #13
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well, the only place with any buzz now is the first fret on the D and G strings, I tightened the neck to get rid of the other buzz, but it did make the first fret buzz a wee bit worse.

Last edited by Velcro Man : 02-14-2014 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velcro Man
well, the only place with any buzz now is the first fret on the D and G strings, I tightened the neck to get rid of the other buzz, but it did make the first fret buzz a wee bit worse.


An easy fix in the end, hopefully you've got a righteous shredder! If the buzz isn't horrendous I'd leave it, as it might be more trouble than it's worth to fix.
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:02 PM   #15
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I believe the problem is due to the nut and bridge both being completely flat, all slots are exactly even. If they were on a flat fretboard with no radius going on, it would be perfect, but because the frets are quite a bit higher in the middle than the outside, the e strings are good, but the d and g just ride the frets. while doing the 1st fret last fret test, i notice the low e had perfect clearance, but the d and g sit on the frets.

And yeah, the fretbuzz is so bad you can't even hear the note over the buzz
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:15 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velcro Man
I believe the problem is due to the nut and bridge both being completely flat, all slots are exactly even. If they were on a flat fretboard with no radius going on, it would be perfect, but because the frets are quite a bit higher in the middle than the outside, the e strings are good, but the d and g just ride the frets. while doing the 1st fret last fret test, i notice the low e had perfect clearance, but the d and g sit on the frets.

And yeah, the fretbuzz is so bad you can't even hear the note over the buzz


Is it only the 1st fret or is it the open string as well? It does seems like the slots are cut too deep so you can either shim the nut which would fix those two frets but will raise the action on all the other strings or you can buy a new nut.

The bridge, nut and frets are really essential if something is out even just by a mm it can throw off the entire guitar.
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:35 PM   #17
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nah, open is just fine, but I messed around and found a decent medium, both places have fret buzz, but not enough to have much effect on the amplified sound. Just gonna accept that and leave it til I can just get a pro to look at it, just don't have the tools for a perfect set up
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:40 PM   #18
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That's such a shame, what a beautiful axe:



It's good to know that there are actual winners of those guitars I see on Facebook and forums.
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:58 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MegadethFan18
If they weren't fully seated all that needs to be done is seat them properly (fret hammer is the easiest way) and then probably a level and crowning.

If the problem with the guitar didn't exist before (which seems likely due to the NGD thread TS made), but the problem developed over time, then it means that the frets were seated properly, but the fingerboard isn't holding in the frets in securely. If that is the case, simply hammering the frets back in wouldn't be a solution. Gluing the frets in is the most viable solution.

I'm not saying that is the case, I'm just saying hypothetically.

But obviously at the time I posted what I did, I didn't actually know for sure what velcro man's problem really was since he didn't really know at the time either.
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Originally Posted by Velcro Man
nah, open is just fine, but I messed around and found a decent medium, both places have fret buzz, but not enough to have much effect on the amplified sound. Just gonna accept that and leave it til I can just get a pro to look at it, just don't have the tools for a perfect set up

Fair enough.
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Old 02-15-2014, 12:27 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T00DEEPBLUE
If the problem with the guitar didn't exist before (which seems likely due to the NGD thread TS made), but the problem developed over time, then it means that the frets were seated properly, but the fingerboard isn't holding in the frets in securely. If that is the case, simply hammering the frets back in wouldn't be a solution. Gluing the frets in is the most viable solution.

I'm not saying that is the case, I'm just saying hypothetically.

But obviously at the time I posted what I did, I didn't actually know for sure what velcro man's problem really was since he didn't really know at the time either.

Fair enough.


I did consider that but it's very unlikely the frets would just fall out the, the slots would have to have been cut too big which I wouldn't consider since the frets are slotted by a machine.

I thought TC might just have not noticed initially, I've had guitars that are fine then I set them up how I like and start noticing stuff.
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