Go Back   UG Community @ Ultimate-Guitar.Com > Instruments > Gear Building & Customizing
User Name  
Password
Search:

Reply
Old 09-25-2014, 01:10 PM   #1
ThePIGI_King
I'm Lovin' It
 
ThePIGI_King's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Paint?

I'm getting ready to refinish a guitar, and I was wondering if there was a "special" kind of paint/primer I need to use or if any bottle of paint would work...links are bonus, but not needed. Thanks!
__________________
"Your mind is the mountain before you" - August Burns Red

"Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards" - Shane Patton
ThePIGI_King is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2014, 03:19 PM   #2
Ippon
Amped
 
Ippon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Left Coast
If you're going for a Natural finish, you'll have to sand to bare wood. If opaque or a solid color, scuff sanding should be sufficient. You can use Acrylic spraycan for the primer/sealer, colorcoat, and clearcoat if you don't plan to go Nitro (ReRanch has Nitro in rattle cans for ~ $15 or something). Krylon is $3/can and Duplicolor is $5/can and Crash, who painted EC's guitars used Krylon and some other Acrylics. Make sure it's Acrylic, not Enamel.

If you want to do a Stain, search for StewMac or LMII.

Also, check out the refinishing thread: http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/foru...26&page=1&pp=40

__________________
WTLT GG&A 2008 WTLT EG 2006 WTLT GB&C 2009

Field Marshall 7 strings/ERG e-peen
Ippon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2014, 05:50 PM   #3
Tony Done
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
If a was doing a "serious" refinish, I would get spray can nitrocellulose from Stewmac or a similar supplier, and follow their refinishing tutorials. The reason is that it dries hard, and the individual coats burn into each other. This means that it can be cut back and polished to get a truly professional finish. If you use hardware store poly, the coats don't burn into each other, so cutting back and polishing are very difficult. OTOH, if you use hardware store acrylic, it can take months to harden, if it ever does.
__________________
Tony Done
http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=784456
http://www.flickr.com/photos/done_family/
Tony Done is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2014, 06:10 PM   #4
Explorerbuilder
Registered User
 
Explorerbuilder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Corrales, NM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Done
If a was doing a "serious" refinish, I would get spray can nitrocellulose from Stewmac or a similar supplier, and follow their refinishing tutorials. The reason is that it dries hard, and the individual coats burn into each other. This means that it can be cut back and polished to get a truly professional finish. If you use hardware store poly, the coats don't burn into each other, so cutting back and polishing are very difficult. OTOH, if you use hardware store acrylic, it can take months to harden, if it ever does.


This isnt entirely true. Nitro is extremely hard to work with and it never dries hard. It always stays slightly soft to move around with the wood. I wouldnt ever suggest nitro for any guitar, but definitely not a beginner. Plus it is very hazardous.
__________________
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/LEF-...142725369133117
Explorerbuilder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2014, 06:58 PM   #5
Tony Done
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Explorerbuilder
This isnt entirely true. Nitro is extremely hard to work with and it never dries hard. It always stays slightly soft to move around with the wood. I wouldnt ever suggest nitro for any guitar, but definitely not a beginner. Plus it is very hazardous.


It still seems to be the top choice for small shop/amateur acoustics, and from what I have see it ages a lot more gracefully than UV-cured poly. I've got an 80 year old Gibson, and while the finish is cracked and thoroughly beat up, it isn't blistering or coming off in flakes. It is also easier to repair than catalysed finishes. I've used spay can acrylic and poly, and didn't like either, the former because it was soft, the latter because the coats didn't burn in, so getting a good finish without cutting through the top coat was the devil's own job. I also had problems with adhesion. OTOH, I used nail varnish (which is nitro lacquer) in a Preval sprayer to overspray, cut back and polish a Gibson headstock. The whole thing went very smoothly, and I had no major problems with it at all, unlike my previous attempts with acrylic and poly. The first coat clouded up because I did it when it was too humid, but denatured alcohol fixed that. The end result looks professional, very smooth and shiny, but it is true that you have to be patient about curing time and choose non-humid days. Re safety, I do mine outdoors, hanging from the clothes line.

Another option is water-based spray lacquer, as sold by Stewmac. The specs sound good, but I've never tried it.

If I was being really keen, I might take it down to the auto spray shop that services my truck, and ask them to do it when they are doing a car in a suitable colour.

EDIT Asked on UMGF (without prompting!) - first suggestion was the Reranch range of spray can nitro.
__________________
Tony Done
http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=784456
http://www.flickr.com/photos/done_family/

Last edited by Tony Done : 09-27-2014 at 09:53 PM.
Tony Done is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2014, 11:54 PM   #6
Explorerbuilder
Registered User
 
Explorerbuilder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Corrales, NM
You have to be careful with waterbased finishes. They all have a blue tint and when sprayed over anything dark or black it will look blue.
__________________
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/LEF-...142725369133117
Explorerbuilder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2014, 11:56 PM   #7
Ippon
Amped
 
Ippon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Left Coast
Home Depot used to sell Deft Nitro spraycan. I use it on top of the Acrylic colorcoat.

It also works well with the dyes and stains from LMII.
__________________
WTLT GG&A 2008 WTLT EG 2006 WTLT GB&C 2009

Field Marshall 7 strings/ERG e-peen
Ippon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2014, 03:22 PM   #8
Tony Done
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Just a followup, additional comments from UMGF. The Reranch option comes in strong, but one pro luthier suggested that auto acrylic would be a good choice. He didn't comment on its burn-in capabilities, and that would still be the major question for me.
__________________
Tony Done
http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=784456
http://www.flickr.com/photos/done_family/
Tony Done is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2014, 04:40 PM   #9
Ippon
Amped
 
Ippon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Left Coast
Duplicolor's Acrylic auto spraycans (same parent company as Krylon) dries/hardens very fast. I've refinished a couple and installed the hardware after 24 hours. Make sure it's not Enamel.
__________________
WTLT GG&A 2008 WTLT EG 2006 WTLT GB&C 2009

Field Marshall 7 strings/ERG e-peen
Ippon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2014, 06:57 PM   #10
Tony Done
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ippon
Duplicolor's Acrylic auto spraycans (same parent company as Krylon) dries/hardens very fast. I've refinished a couple and installed the hardware after 24 hours. Make sure it's not Enamel.


Do the coats burn into each other so that they can be cut back and polished, without cutting through the top coat? I'm seriously interested in this, because spray can nitro is hard to get here in Oz, and shipping regulations prevent me from buying it in the US.
__________________
Tony Done
http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=784456
http://www.flickr.com/photos/done_family/
Tony Done is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2014, 07:46 PM   #11
ThePIGI_King
I'm Lovin' It
 
ThePIGI_King's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
I already painted it, and it's looking stellar compared to how it used to. Thanks for all your input. But just for future reference, can anyone tell me the precise reason as to why Enamel is not good to use? I would like to know the "scientific" reason so if I'm ever asked, I can give a good, full answer. Thanks everyone.
__________________
"Your mind is the mountain before you" - August Burns Red

"Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards" - Shane Patton
ThePIGI_King is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2014, 07:58 PM   #12
Robbgnarly
Registered User
 
Robbgnarly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NSB, FL
It is softer paint.
__________________
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
Robbgnarly is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:51 AM.

Forum Archives / About / Terms of Use / Advertise / Contact / Ultimate-Guitar.Com © 2014
Powered by: vBulletin Version 3.0.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.