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Old 08-18-2007, 08:24 PM   #41
jj1565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Axeman
I've got a question for you guys.

I just got a new guitar, a custom built strat. It has a Schaller Floyd Rose, the regular kind. Now, the guy who built it, he put some really big gauge strings on it, I think 11-52. Well I restrung it with 9-46 and now I have to adjust the bridge so it won't descend into the its cavity.

Of course I could let him to do it, but he's really busy all the time so I'd probably have to wait for a week or so... So my question is, should I do it myself or can I damage something? It seems easy tho, just loosen the 2 springs in the back right? Oh and it has 3 springs



yeah the 2 screws. and ull be fine.
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Old 08-25-2007, 10:33 PM   #42
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Ok, ****ty LFR here. No clue what brand... How do I change the action on it?
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Old 08-25-2007, 10:34 PM   #43
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http://projectguitar.com/tut/action.htm

do u have two posts, similar to the picture top right? those would get lowered.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

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Old 09-04-2007, 01:34 PM   #44
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Thumbs up

this thread makes me wanna get a floyd
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Old 01-26-2008, 04:00 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Buckethead5
this thread makes me wanna get a floyd

Me too. It looks 10x easier than i thought
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Old 01-27-2008, 08:39 PM   #46
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Hi everyone.

I notice that the height of the bridge can be adjusted on both sides of the floyd rose, at the first string and at the sixth string. I'm using custom skinny top heavy bottom strings, 10's on top and some huge gauge on the bottom.

What's happening is that when I raise the bridge to create enough clearance for the bottom three strings that leaves the top three strings much further from the fretboard than they need to be and thus harder to play.

With this in mind, I was thinking about lowering just the first string side of the bridge to lower the top strings and preserve the distance for the bottom strings. So, the strings wouldn't be a uniform distance from the fretboard. Is there anything wrong with this approach? Will it create any problems for my playing or my sound?

Thanks
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:20 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreasedKrist
Hi everyone.

I notice that the height of the bridge can be adjusted on both sides of the floyd rose, at the first string and at the sixth string. I'm using custom skinny top heavy bottom strings, 10's on top and some huge gauge on the bottom.

What's happening is that when I raise the bridge to create enough clearance for the bottom three strings that leaves the top three strings much further from the fretboard than they need to be and thus harder to play.

With this in mind, I was thinking about lowering just the first string side of the bridge to lower the top strings and preserve the distance for the bottom strings. So, the strings wouldn't be a uniform distance from the fretboard. Is there anything wrong with this approach? Will it create any problems for my playing or my sound?

Thanks

None at all. Action is all up to you, if you're comfortable with that height then go for it. There's nothing wrong unless you hear a lot of fret buzz.
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Old 01-29-2008, 12:17 PM   #48
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I have a major with my floyd rose and I wanted to see if anyone here can help. I bought a Ibanez for christmas shockingly it came perfectly tuned and set up and I havent had to tune it until now but guess what... every single screw on the thing seems either ridiuoucly tight and I cant loosen them or they seemed stripped (particulary the locks up at the headstock). Thanks in advanced.
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Old 01-29-2008, 01:29 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Binaryshadow
I have a major with my floyd rose and I wanted to see if anyone here can help. I bought a Ibanez for christmas shockingly it came perfectly tuned and set up and I havent had to tune it until now but guess what... every single screw on the thing seems either ridiuoucly tight and I cant loosen them or they seemed stripped (particulary the locks up at the headstock). Thanks in advanced.

Try it slowly with the right size allen key. If they wont budge, try a plier, dont force it. If the screws are stripped, then you'd need to get a plier to unscrew them. Look out for spare parts on eBay.

Which model is this Ibanez?
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Old 01-29-2008, 04:43 PM   #50
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I'm considering getting a guitar with a ZR trem (see sig)
I understand that the setup will be a bit of a pain, but will I have to do all this to change strings?
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Old 01-29-2008, 04:45 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jumboshrmp
I'm considering getting a guitar with a ZR trem (see sig)
I understand that the setup will be a bit of a pain, but will I have to do all this to change strings?

Yeah, there's no way to run from clipping ball ends/stringing backwards/locking everything up/etc etc. Unless you have a specially designed system to do so (e.g. EdgePro, Floyd Rose Speedloader).
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Old 01-30-2008, 09:25 AM   #52
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I've been having some trouble with my ZR trem. I don't understand this thing at all -> http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g...it/ZRsetup2.jpg which was in the original post. Are these different ways of setting it up? or are they steps in setting it up properly? and what the hell are the X and O things all about, and those arrows pointing up/down?

I posted a thread about my problems last night (before i saw this thread) in which I explain my problem more in depth. http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/foru...ad.php?t=774233

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-30-2008, 11:25 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eirien
I've been having some trouble with my ZR trem. I don't understand this thing at all -> http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g...it/ZRsetup2.jpg which was in the original post. Are these different ways of setting it up? or are they steps in setting it up properly? and what the hell are the X and O things all about, and those arrows pointing up/down?

I posted a thread about my problems last night (before i saw this thread) in which I explain my problem more in depth. http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/foru...ad.php?t=774233

Thanks in advance.

Those are the correct step by step procedure to obtain the fullest of your Full Floating mode. Those arrows merely indicate that you oughta have the correct position labeled "O" and not "X". If you have "X"s like pic (1), you should follow the direction until you achieve "O". ("O"= Correct, "X" = Wrong).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eirien
I bought an Ibanez S520EX a couple of weeks ago and I'm totally confused by the ZR on it.

So i thought i had found the correct way to have the spring tension set but i went to set the intonation last night and found that the intonation tool didn't fit into the slot on the high e because the back of the bridge was too low compared to the body. the thing the fine tuner screws into is slightly lower than the others despite all the tuners being screwed to a central position. is this normal?

So i tried to loosen the spring tension so the bridge would come up a bit and I could fit the intonation tool in and found that when it was like this the stop rod thingy in the back was being pushed out, which the owners manual doesn't seem to find acceptable. Does this mean i'll have to raise the bridge a bit?

And one last thing. My band's doing some recording in about a month and i want to have the guitar professionally set up by a tech. Do you think the average tech be able to figure out how the hell to set up the bridge or will I have to find one who has experience with ZRs?

SO. Has anyone got any useful information about any of the above? I'll be eternally greatful to anyone who does.


The high E or low E? like so?. Dont worry much about it.

Ok, so what i recommend you to do is first refer to my picture (in the 1st page) and see how the ZR system should be parallel with the body. Now, you'd need to unlock the locking nuts and retune/reintonate the whole system back. Make sure you balance the system while having the stop bar at the correct position to tap its fullest ability.

When reintonating your system, you need to make sure that the bridge is parallel and you're at your standard playing position. The saddles doesnt need to be aligned alltogether, as a matter of fact they shouldnt be in the same position (unless the intonation is correct). Make proper adjustments.

To make intonating an easier process, you can try and find anything to block your tremolo system and make it parallel. That way, you dont have to rebalance/retune the whole thing again and again whenever you want to intonate other strings. AAA battery can also work:


Taking it to a tech? It can be really expensive, varies. Just make sure you get a professional and not just some store clerks that reads manual to do it.
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Last edited by madpickin03 : 01-30-2008 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 01-30-2008, 05:46 PM   #54
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cheers for the advice man that's helped me out LOADS!
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Old 01-30-2008, 06:38 PM   #55
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Old 01-30-2008, 07:01 PM   #56
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Old 01-30-2008, 07:20 PM   #57
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what are you bumping?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

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Old 01-30-2008, 07:23 PM   #58
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^ +1?
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Old 01-31-2008, 08:25 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madpickin03
Try it slowly with the right size allen key. If they wont budge, try a plier, dont force it. If the screws are stripped, then you'd need to get a plier to unscrew them. Look out for spare parts on eBay.

Which model is this Ibanez?


Sorry it took so long to respond... anyway its an Ibanez RG370DX, also thanks for the help.
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Old 02-02-2008, 11:45 AM   #60
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i have a liscensed Floyd on my Schecter, and i always keep it in standard drop D. now i once and a while like to go drop C, but when i do with my schecter, the floyd pulls on the strings way more and makes a lot more tension and kinda harder to play. is there something i have to adjust before dropping C?
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