c3powil

BRAVO!
Now that yall have that settled maby there could be a bass upgrades part so the noobs who already know some bass know what to look for next.

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Tossed Sallads and Scrambled Eggs

bassmanjoe08

If you need more post space for any additions, I will rent out post #13 for *BUSH* credits.

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Call Me Joe



Communist Mormon of 2.21.19.8

Caffeine Head of The Bass Militia

smb

Nice work chaps.


Might be? Why not actually do the maths and tell me what the actual answer is?

See above. Also by this point you haven't mentioned that generally power ratings are given for a 4 ohm load - this is essential to understanding the issue. There's no such thing as a "4 ohm head" - you have a head that produces x watts at 4 ohms. I don't want to be too pedantic, but "ohms" and "watts" shouldn't be capitalised.

Surely if they quote the peak output as 300W the RMS output will be 300/(sqrt2) = 213W.

thefitz

Typically (i.e. I can't think of any situations otherwise), the peak value is exactly double the RMS value. Fender, SWR, and Ampeg cabs have that.

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Deliriumbassist

Not my sections dude Don't jump down my throat

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smb

According to this equation (source:Wikipedia/Audio power)

RMS power is equal to peak power over root two (the impedance being constant.) This is actually a fact for any sine wave so if different figures are quoted the manufacturer is using a non-standard method of measuring or calculating one or the other of these figures. Commonly the peak power rating allows for some compression (usually distortion) of the signal which shouldn't be the way it's done. But hell, which manufacturer doesn't overstate the power of their amps.

I couldn't care less who wrote what. I just glanced at it and suggested some improvements. Don't be so defensive.

Deliriumbassist

The makes the post light hearted. Of course it's open to suggestions. The ohms have been decapitalised where I saw them (Was just a quick glance through though), I changed some the wording, and I'll sort something out with the other stuff later. And I'm choosing not to include the mathematics as this is a general, first line of knowledge FAQ. If people want to understand any of the physics or maths behind any of it, they're perfectly welcome to do their homework.

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smb

Fair enough - it's just me being picky really. Maybe something did get through to me during my half a physics degree

Seriously, good job though. It's damn good that you people could be bothered.

Deliriumbassist

Damn picky physics students

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thefitz

Equations or no, I've seen dozens of cabs that have the way I mentioned. Go to Fender's site - 1000W peak, 500W continuous.

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Charlatan_001

A really noob question here, forgive me:

I want to audition for this awesome local band, but they play in "drop B".

Since I'll have to file down the nut on one of my basses to accommodate the 5-string set, I won't be able to string it back to normal, will I? Or would I just have to buy a heavy gauge 4-string set?

thefitz

I think drop B would have the same string tuning ratios as drop D. So, I guess it's drop D, but, um, all strings 1 and a half steps down? So the bottom string is B, which would be the same note as what your string would be. BF#BE is drop B, the way I see it.

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Deliriumbassist

You don't need to file down anything. Find the heaviest 4 string set you can find and tune it BF#BE low to high, and set up the bass accordingly.

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Charlatan_001

But won't even a really heavy gauged 4-string set require some nut filing?

Deliriumbassist

Not really. I've never had a problem with it, and I've put .140s in my low B groove.

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Zar938

i saw delirium posting to check the faq, and instantly thought no F'n way, they finished the FAQ?
This is amazing and yet at the same time terrible

now when we get asked nooby questions, all we have to say is check the FAQ, but then that pretty much eliminates at least every other thread


but then it will get kind of annoying, kind of like when someone posts something against the rules, and the next ten posts just say *reported, everyone will be saying 'check the faq'

nonetheless the effort put into this is amazing, i applaud you guys for your awesomeness, as this truly will make our lives easier (although eventually more uneventful)

i also second the idea of a starter amps section

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Charlatan_001

What does the second part of your statement mean in this context?

Also, what gauge do you think will do? I"m looking at DRs and the heaviest 4-string set for the Hi-Beams is .50 - .110, but Rotosound Swing 66's come in .65 - .130

thefitz

Those Rotos are basically BEAD sets. A 5-string set is that exact gauge with a 45. I wish I could get some of those BEAD sets for my Warwick, but all I do is put 4 of my 5 strings on when I replace my Jazz's strings. The Warwick gets the old strings.

For that BF#BE tuning, I'd suggest a totally custom set - .130 .95 .70 .55

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Charlatan_001

What would the advantage of this custom set be over a BEAD set? Sorry for this noob question, but I don't tune like this.. ever.