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Old 10-01-2008, 12:35 PM   #1
bartdevil_metal
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Location: Middlesex, North London, England
The Valveking Thread Mk. II

The Ultimate Valveking Thread

Hello and welcome to the Ultimate-Valveking Thread. As one of the only budget valve amps that has a substantial amount of gain on tap, the Valveking is one of the most popular amps with UG’ers on a budget. The purpose of this thread is to discuss possible modifications, share EQ settings, clips and generally learn from each others’ mistakes on how to get the best tone out of this range of amplifiers. So without further ado:

The Range

Valvekings come in three sizes:

50w 112 Combo



This is the best value out of the three, as it cost less to modify than the 212 (with regard to speakers/valves etc.). However, there are a couple of control losses – both the 212 and Head version have a presence and resonance dial; this is not present on the 112 combo.

100w 212 Combo



Bigger and slightly louder than the 112 combo, the 212 has double the wattage on tap and so has more headroom for the average metalhead (who usually enjoy an insane amount of preamp distortion). It’s usefulness is limited however; The head version will end up being better value if you carry out the mods because you can buy a decent cab outright and even use it with other amps.

100w Head



The most portable and adaptable of the three. The head can be used with any cab (obviously as it has an ohmage selector of 4/8/16 ohms) and incorporates the presence and resonance dial that is lacking on the 112 version. It also shares the headroom and loudness of the 212 combo.

Royal 8



Although the Royal 8 doesn't sound like the rest of the Valvekings, it is part of the line so we have included it here. It is a one channel 5w valve amp with a volume knob, tone knob and gain. Because it is such a low wattage combo it doesn't have much gain on tap (barely enough for Oasis) although with a nice boost this amp can sing for blues and do the Oasis crunch sound pretty well. Pretty much an amp for those that crave that poiwer valve breakup at sane volumes, but you're going to need a distortion pedal for anything heavier than Lynyrd Skynyrd.

(Credit IbanezPsycho)
Schematics

Schematics can be found on this site, along with a lot of other amps if you're interested:

http://www.schematicheaven.com/post70s.htm

UPDATE:

We're (and by we're I mean dudey5691 mainly) working to convert all of this info into a WikiSpace, along with all the useful information we've picked up so far in this thread and previous Valvking thread(s). Check the link:

http://ultimate-guitar-valveking.wikispaces.com/
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Last edited by bartdevil_metal : 01-19-2009 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:40 PM   #2
TOILETHERO
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EQ Settings
This section is for users to share settings they found to be good with other users. Without stepping on the toes of the ultimate settings thread. Include all the dials if you can, including the model and guitar you’re using. Help all of us sound as great as you do!

(Credit bartdevil_metal)
Jackson DK2M through VK112 (w/V30)
Channel: Lead
Volume: To taste
Bass: 7
Middle: 8
Treble: 6
Gain 6.5
Boost On
Volume Boost Off

(Credit dudey5691)
Stevie Ray Vaughan tone (bedroom levels/neck pickup/no pedals) on VK112 with Veteren 30.
-Lead Channel without gain or volume boosts
-Gain at a smidge above 9 o'clock
-volume at 11 o'clock
-Low at 10 o'clock
-Mid at 2 o'clock
-High at a smidge below 11 o'clock
-Reverb at or around 10 o'clock

(Credit sg622)
Stock VK no mods
VK lead channel
Gain- 7.5
bass- 5
mid- 8
treb- 5.5

MXR 10 band (In fx loop)
31Hz: -6
62Hz: +3
125Hz: +6
250Hz: +3
500Hz: -3
1KHz: +4-6
2KHz: -3
4KHz: +8
8KHz: +3
16KHz: +6

vol and gain are at 0db
I think its a pretty weird EQ for the pedal but it works

Note that i also run a keeley TS-9 and an Ibanez TS-9 (both on) in front of the amp.

Boost and Volume are both off and the presence is on tight and the amp is set to A/B

(Credit IbanezPsycho)
Treble: past 5 (harsh and muddy doesnt clean up well) 0-5 adjust to taste. Imagine 1-5 is your new 0-10
Middle: past 8 (harsh and muddy doesnt clean up well) 0-8 adjust to taste Imagine 1-8 is your new 0-10
Bass: Use as normal, but it lacks alot of bass so this were an EQ pedal helps out considerably
Presence:Use as normal - adds top end harmonics
Resonnce:Use as normal - makes the bass response loose or tight
Texture knob:Clockwise Tight thrash tone, Counter Clockwise Loose/Creamy think vintage but a bit muddy
Gain: past 7-8 will get muddy
Volume Button: In or out its a prefrence thing but at bedroom levels you might want to leave it out so you have more control over the volume knob.
Gain Button: Pushed In adds big boost of gain and highs but its really harsh due to Diode Clipping circuit being engaged, only way to clean it up is to push the power tubes harder to mask the harshness. But then your getting out of that tight metal territory. Best option is not to use it and us a OD pedal to push her into metal territory.

Setting wise here is an example of realting the Valvekings eq quirks to standard settings...
Metallicas basic settings are Treble 7 Mid 2 Bass 7
But because of the eq quirks your new settings will look something like this.
Treble 4-4.5 Mid 2 Bass 10
then with the eq add in a touch more bass and a touch more treble and mid to taste.
------

Pedal Use

(Credit to IbanezPsycho)
Loves OD pedals, Bad Monkey is a great budget pedal and works great on this amp.
Settings Level 10 Gain 0, These settins will work with any OD pedal. Pretty much a must if your playing metal.

Also a EQ pedal is almost a must for fine tuning because of the quirks in the on-board eq'ing. Also there is a nasty little freq that creates alot of fizz in the 2-4k range you will probally want to pull it out with the EQ pedal.

-----

So I guess that’s it, have fun and enjoy your Valvekings!

Just to get the thread started again, the reverb tank sucks, discuss:

NOTE: This thread is reposted due to the lack of an informative first post. Here is the link to the old thread -Here(Big Enough?)

Last edited by TOILETHERO : 01-21-2009 at 02:55 PM.
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:43 PM   #3
311ZOSOVHJH
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I CAN TAKE ON THE CLIPZ HERE.....




***UG'r Clipz***


HEY FELLOW VKrs, CAN You Please Look At My Descriptions below and PM me with any changes you want? Like new speaker, pups you use, tubes you use, genre description etc. Thanks,


If I don't see your clipz mentioned in Thread - PM me.





sg622 - Clean and Lead clippys. With and without TS OD Great Metal demos..........
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/sg622/music/


Necrophagist777 - 112 w/Eminence Man O War, Boosted by BM (Metal)


Bartdevil_Metal - V30 Mod (Shred, Jazz, Surf Rock) ~112


IbanezPsycho - Modded to **** (Metal) ~Head


Raijouta - Clean and lead clips, blues, and Vai/Satch tones WGS Vet30 speaker~112


Sadistic_Sponge - 112 Stock? 11 minute demo is great, heavy starts half way thru.
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/Sadistic+sponge/


311ZOSO - 112 Stock. Various (including a dummy jack insert #1 demo)
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/311ZOSOVHJH/music/


dopethrone420 - 212 Doom Stoner Rock
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/dopethrone420/


dudey5691 - 112 w/Vet30 and Tungsol(v1), 5751's (v2-v3) and JJ powers -'tallica
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/dudey5691/music/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acY8...re=channel_page


Worhan - stock 112 metal
http://www.youtube.com/user/Worhan


Mathamology - 112 w/V30 212 cab hard rock
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/Mathamology/


Mike.h - 112 random rif***e
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/mike.h/music/


gtr_101 - 112 w/WGS Vet30/Bad Monkey/Duncan SH5
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/gtr_101/music/

http://www.youtube.com/fredsnewfrisbee


mythiasking - VK Head with 1960b cab/g12-75s - Hardcore/Deathmetal
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/mythiasking/music/


Don Tonberry - 112 with MXR ZW OD/boost on/Vol 1 - Metal



GaijinFoot - 212 Stock with Schector/actives - Metal

(has new clips please check)


DaddyBarbs - 112 Stock with and without pedals - Killswitch clip
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/DaddyBarbs/music/


Synystagates - 112 Metal clipz A7X and BFMV content
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/synystagates/music/


synth002 - Metal clips. 100w head. No OD. Marshall 4x12 cab.***MOST RECENT VKr



Jam3v - Metallica, MT-2, Celestion G12T-75 speaker
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/.../all/play545020
Very Nice Metallica covers with Jam3v's band - check it
http://www.myspace.com/wechewandspityouout


jamesfarr - Metallica
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/jamesfarr/music/


MetalSir - VK100 metal solo lead



FadexToxBlack81 - VK212/active pups/Bad Monkey/LOG cover
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bs-8...re=channel_page


classicrocker01 - Combo with WGS Vet30 loaded 4x12
http://www.netmusicians.org/?sectio...vey%20Valveking


Jason43
http://www.4shared.com/file/1325629...rdrockriff.html


Random3

Solo, with Boss GE-7, NS-2 and a Bad Monkey. Tubes and speakers are stock.


Doesn't really start until about 30 seconds in, the intro was messing around with the wah Same pedals etc as above, but with a Dunlop Crybaby From Hell.


Jason Clement - VK100 and 412 Emi cab



amatas83
-heavy/hard rock jam
-moody ballad type jam


ethan hanus
Heavy riffing, stock VK, TS9 as boost in full mix:
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/ethan_hanus/mus ic/all/play864013

VK Cleans using a BKP Painkiller:
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/ethan_hanus/mus ic/all/play863600

VK again in a full mix song, lead and rhythm:
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/ethan_hanus/mu sic/all/play865735

VK doing some rock style music full mix:
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/ethan_hanus/mus ic/all/play866671

Atlanticauk - Boosted Metal VK100
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/76196635/Va...gDistortion.mp3





Most recent listed last

PM me with any clips you want added.

************Non - UG'rs***************

SoulTrip - VK Head.




Perry Parson has some good stuff on netmusicians.com
ParryPerson #257 "http://www.netmusicians.org/index.p...lue=ParryPerson
http://www.netmusicians.org/index.p...lue=ParryPerson
99 Gibson Les Paul --> VK Head into 4 WGS GB's with a bad monkey in front.
(Go to netmusicians.org and search on Valveking for Parry's stuff)


YOUTUBE


100 Head stock - hardcore punk post production ****************
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/elguapo2k/music/

112 Blues clip - great clip and you can tell it is a Valveking.


Same dude doing Satch's Always with you always with me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTET...feature=related

Stock 112 ...cool clip, i post this all the time


Drop Slipknot ....212
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNoXmVQhcDQ&NR=1

JamieOldfield stuff w/tubescreamer demo


This kid is pretty good! ...100 head version Pantera
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vywl...feature=related

100 head - guy doing Disturbed. Marshall cab.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aj5B...feature=related

212 metal clip - good


VK Head - Immortality is the band. heavy death metal
http://www.myspace.com/immoralityuk

Swamp Thing - look on youtube






more please



..

Last edited by 311ZOSOVHJH : 06-21-2012 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:44 PM   #4
bartdevil_metal
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Location: Middlesex, North London, England
The Mods

Many users buy the Valveking and are not satisfied with the tone straight out of the box. These users (myself included) modify the amp so that a much better tone can be gained out of it. It really is quite extraordinary how much of an improvement can be made with a few simple mods. Here is an overview of the more common and widely endorsed mods:

Speaker Swap


I would estimate that about 50% of the muddiness inherent in Valveking amps is caused by the stock speaker. Seriously, I wouldn’t use this in my crappy squier amplifier that I got in my starter set. By replacing this speaker, the muddiness goes away for the most part, leaving a clear and manageable tone that can be controlled by the onboard EQ with much more ease. Some popular speakers are:

>Celestion Vintage 30: A very middy speaker that creates a lot of clarity on the lead channel and makes for a slightly gritty clean channel. Ideal for metal and heavier styles.
>A more budget version of the Vintage 30 is the Warehouse 30 (found at www.warehousespeakers.com)



>Celestion G12T-75: More upper mids and a deeper low end make this speaker ideal for classic rock and mod rock styles.

(Credit to IbanezPsycho)

G12t-75's can be quite fizzy on the top end try to avoid them if you can. Great for British voicings, not American voicings.




(Credit to IbanezPsycho)

Classic lead 80's are a great lead speaker if you like the dynamics of a Vintage 30 its really close in characteristics but has more of a lead role. So if your a lead player and like the Vintage 30 tone this is a great option.



(Credit to TOILETHERO)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eminence
"This is very subjective, of course, but I hope I can help. The Tonker or Tonkerlite are great considerations for a Peavey amp and for the versatility you require for this application. They are both very balanced, punchy, warm, smooth and clean with nice top end presence and good low end definition. The Tonkerlite is a neodymium (lightweight magnet design) and is brighter and more tight rather than fat compared to the Tonker.
http://www.eminence.com/guitar_spea...12&SUB_CAT_ID=4
http://www.eminence.com/guitar_spea...12&SUB_CAT_ID=4


(Credit to Necrophagist777)
>Eminence Man O War



Very Loud Speaker. Big Volume jump from the VK stock speaker.
Great Clean tone. Really articulate with some sparkle. Brightens up the clean channel a lot.
With the bright switch off, the clean channel is as bright as the stock speaker with the bright switch on.
Very Chunky and tight rhythm tone without the muddiness of the stock speaker, really agressive sounding with out being harsh.
Chords are very crunchy without being too trebley. Artificial Harmonics absolutely scream.
Lead Tone is very clear and smooth with enough mids for your leads to really sing without the mid spike some speakers have. Each note really stands out.
Lower gain satriani type tones sound great as well as high gain tones. Very Very versatile speaker.
Probably not the best for blues or classic rock. But for hard rock and metal with great cleans it's perfect. And if you dabble in other genres you won't be hurt by choosing this speaker.

(Credit to dopethrone420)
Oh and for anyone with impedance questions i saw a few people asking, The vk 212 runs at 8ohms alone, if u add a cabinet u need to add a 8 ohm cabinet and set the head to 4 ohms, as you have 2 8ohms enclosers, if you want to use two other cabinets or a cabinet that is 4 or 16 ohms, u need to unplug the 2 internal speakers and set the impeadance accordingly

1 x 4 ohm cabinet = 4 ohm impeadance
2 x 4 ohm cabinets = 2 ohm impeadance
(2 ohm settings is ussualy not an option so dont buy 2 4ohm cabs)

1x 8 ohms cab = 8ohm impedance
2x 8 ohms cab = 4 ohm impedance

1x 16 ohms cab = 16 ohms impedance
2x 16 ohms cab = 8 ohms impedance

Dont mix them its not healthy for your head and can cause damage on top of sounding ****y, I learned this the hard way

(Credit to 311ZOSOVHJH)
So, for the 8 ohm cabs, (8*8)/(8+8)=64/16=4 ohms.

8 Ohms in Series/Parallel, 16 in series, 4 in parallel

-------------------------------
From Peavey.com on 212

Go to the back of the amplifier and read labels on the speakers.
Typically a 212 will have two 8 ohm speakers for a 16 ohm total.

Write back with the ohm rating..........

Part Two--

If your amp is built as a 16 ohm 2X12 you will want to use a 16 ohm 4X12.
When running two 16 ohm cabinets amp should be set at 8 ohms.
When running two 8 ohm cabinets amp should be set at 4 ohms.

If your 212 combo amp is 16 ohms and the 412 cabinet is 8 ohms you will not get equal performance.

I need people to add more reviews for speakers so please PM or post in this thread to add them

(Preamp) Valve Swap

Although I do not advocate replacing the valves until they need to be, a lot of users (such as Mike.H) found that they improved the tone somewhat. Some popular valve combinations are:

>JJ12AX7s: Add clarity and more bass response.

>TungSol12AX7s: Add a tiny bit more gain, and again more clarity + treble

(Credit to leadfootdriver)
>Put a 12AT7 in V3. (closest to the tubes on the 112) You get more clairity and dynamics. There's still plenty of gain left.

(Credit to IbanezPsycho)
I would check and see what tubes came stock in it. JJ's and Tung Sols are you best options. If you have Rubys or EHX you might want to change them.

As before, any reviews on valve/tube changes are welcome and will be added.

The “Dummy Jack” Mod

A seriously cheap mod that everyone and anyone can and should do. Get a ¼” jack plug converter – something like this:



And insert it into the 1st input. The plug your guitar into the second input and play. Creates more clarity in your tone and filters out some more of the muddiness.
Any more mods that users wish to share, please post or PM.

(Credit IbanezPsycho)
Jumper cable in the Effects loop activates the Loop Buffer giving you a bit more clarity and level. Works great if you are not using any pedals in the chain already.

Placing a volume pedal or eq pedal in the effects loop will act like a master volume allowing you to in-turn push your preamps a bit harder and allow for final volume adjustment before it hits the poweramps allowing for volume adjustment. Great way to get a great metal tone. This does not affect the poweramp and is not a replacement for an attenuator but is a great way to turn your amp into a master volume amp and push those preamps.

Cosmetic Mods

Amp Pilot Light Jewel Replacement
Unscrew and replace with color of your choice.

and

Metal plate with wings removal
Unscrew Peavey logo screws first then remove logo. Unscrew remaining screws holding metal plate in place. Pull plate out and replace logo and screws.



Preamp Tube Shields
Remove logo, plate and mesh. Push down then turn and pull up on shields for removal.



(Credit stratoJim)
The r100 mod is easy with minimal soldering experience. Just get a resistor (any will do) and use the solder lead to go from lead to lead on resistor 100 (which is labeled) thereby bridging the resistor.

I tried to do the bias mod myself and got shocked pretty bad (I've been doing this a while so I'm used to it) and I fried two grid resistors and a diod, I took it in to the professional to have the bias mod done. basically it involves removing resistor 205 (which is a set level for bias voltage) and installing a small potentiometer with a backup resistor should the Pot go bad.

the r100 mod made the gain boost feature usable and great for a classic rock tone with the gain less than noon

the bias mod really warmed up the amp and took out a lot of the grittyness and increased responsiveness. It was very noticable in the clean channel but affected the whole tone.

Combo to Head Mod

(Credit Gtr_101)
Another recently popular mod is to convert the 112 combo into a head. This can be done in one of two ways; you can cut the combo sies down to make it smaller, like a head (thereby taking the speaker out and running it with a new cab - 16 ohm of course) or you can remove the chassis from the combo frame and make a new head frae for it, and use the exisintg combo frame (with speaker) as a cab. Gtr_101 has started to complete the latter, using this thread.

Cont.
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Last edited by bartdevil_metal : 01-19-2009 at 06:55 PM.
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:44 PM   #5
311ZOSOVHJH
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*********VK MODS Continued**********(to expand on Bartdevil's post)


Pictorial for Mods (short for modify)


This is a pictoral guide to help you find things and give meaning to some of the terms we use (not Valveking specific really). Here below is the layout of a 112 Upside down. I find this is the best way to work with tubes and such. Gives you a more stable workspace. The Preamp tubes are in those aluminum cylinders as I describe further below. V1 is in the far back left. V2 is just to the right of it under the speaker. This is the hardest one to remove. V3 is in front of V2 and closest to the power tubes. It is the Phase Inverter and is important as it is the last phase before the power section. The 2 Power Tubes on the 112 can be seen as the largest and in the center uncovered. The 212 and Head will have 4 Power Tubes. The black metal tube gaurd has been removed.



Speakers

The stock speakers in the Valveking combos and the 4x12 cabinet are pretty lousy. They do take time to break in so they will sound better over time and some are happy with the stock speakers for their applications. First thing to remember is that they are easy to replace/swap with a better one. New speakers cost anywhere from $65 to $200 each. The average is $70-120. Please ask in the VK forum as to your specific situation.

Some speakers are more geared (voiced) for british tones and some are voiced for a more american or modern tone. Same is true for blues/country vs say metal. Speakers that have proved to work well include but are not limited to: Celestion Vintage 30 and G12H-75s. Eminence Man O War under the Red Coat series. I'm guessing that an Eminence Swamp Thang and Texas Heat would work well too. On a budget, the Warehouse Veteran 30 (Vintage 30 clone) is a cost effective speaker that is not as 'ice picky' as the Vintage 30 and provides better mid range response. They start at $65 and are available only in the US. They can be found at warehouseguitarspeakers.com.

Most peoples' application for this amp is Hard Rock and Metal so these are the recommendations so far.To remove the speaker you pull the clips off the tabs as shown below. They need a good tug. Use two hands if you can so you can hold the tab (post or lead) securely with the other hand. The reverb pan and lower 4" tolexed panel on the back need to be removed. It only takes a phillips screwdriver. You will see 4 nuts holding the speaker in place. They can be loosened with a pair of pliers. You should not have to remove the Power Tubes but removing the power tube cage may prove worthwhile if going out the back.

The speaker can also be removed from the front by removing the front panel and then speaker. Again, with a phillips and pliers.
Here is a shot of me pulling the speaker wire clip away from it's post.




Here is another shot of amp right side up. Preamp covers removed. You can also see the speaker clips behind the two power tubes. A VK212 will have 4 power tubes.




Amp is upside down but this the Rear 4" Panel you will have to remove (along with the reverb pan) if you take the speaker out the back. Be carefull not to break the power tubes. You can also take the speaker out by removing the front panel at front of amp as mentioned above. More of this is covered in Dudey's Wiki pages.




Here is my Dummy Jack in Insert 1.




Here are a bunch of Dummy Jacks (1/8" to 1/4" headphone adapters). Do NOT plug headphones into a Valveking or any other all tube amp. Generally.



This is what you can do if you are not running anything through the effects loop for some better tone. The Effects Loop Trick can give your amp a slight gain boost. Try it. This is a 6" pedal connector.




This is what the Reverb Pan looks like (outside of amp). You can see the red and white RCA inputs, just like on a DVD player.




This is what the inside of the Reverb Pan (tank) looks like.




General disclaimer that this is a forum and not generated by anyone at Peavey or by Electric Engineers necessarily. Always use caution when working with high voltage equipment.

Some mods, like the R100 mod and the C124 mod require you to open the chassis of the amp. This is the metal 'box' that the tubes and transformers are bolted to. Caps are short for Capacitors that can store voltage for some time. In some cases, enough to kill you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason43
IIRC, to drain the caps, you can connect a 5-10 watt resistor to the cap and that should do it, or go the old fashioned way and short them out with a flathead screwdriver, which I wouldn't recommend. There are how-to sites out there specifically for amps.

For removing the cap for the footswitch though, you shouldn't have to go go to any great lengths here. Use a pair of wire cutters with insulated handles and you'll be fine. You could probably get away with bending the leads back and forth and and just break the cap free.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason43
Well, I guess someone more knowledgeable than me could look at the schematic and tell if its self draining. The easiest way is to use a voltmeter on the caps. That will tell you if they are holding a charge or not. When I opened mine up, I'm fairly certain they weren't holding a charge. Its been a while though. Like I said though, this is all really overkill for removing one capacitor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rapfohl09
Just sharing some of my knowledge. Self draining caps have a bleeder resistor built into them that drain the power within..hrm 30 minutes at max. However you should ALWAYS check the caps with a multimeter, there should be no more than 10 volts reading across the meter, normally it wont read 0, but it needs to be as low as possible. Actually probally less than 10 volts. Also, when working on ANY tube amps, you should always work with one hand "in the pocket" and litterally means work with you hand in your pocket. This way if you do sustain a shock the hand in your pocket makes it so the current wont travel through your chest, therefore it wont hit your heart, therefore you wont die :-P. I hopefully dont need to tell you that electricity is dangerous. Our bodies can actually withstand many volts, but its the current, measured in amps, that are dangerous. Any thing over 1 amp, just 1, is deffinately fatal and anything from .5-1 is extremely dangerous, almost always results in paralysis and is generally fatal. They are just building false fear, its very dangerous. I agree however, that knowing what you are doing, and being careful you have nothing to worry about.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason43
I used a Heyboer HYOT100 100watt Marshal replacement from tedweber.com. You would need a different OT for the VK112, possibly something like the HY022889. I'd email Ted and ask what he recommends.
I'll warn you right though, only do this mod if you want to improve your amp in every way.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap47
I would strongly recommend these preamp tubes. I have tried many and this is my 1st choice V1 Tungsol RI 12ax7, V2 Penta Labs 9th Gen 12ax7, V3 Sovtec 12ax7 LPS.
My choice of power would not work in your head (KT66). See the tube reviews at www.thetubestore.com. Maybe even give them a call and see what they recommend. Stay away from EH and Groove tubes. Your head does not have the proper socket spacing for large bottle KT66.




Additional information can be found here in the Valveking Wiki pages: http://ultimate-guitar-valveking.wikispaces.com/


..
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:56 PM   #6
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be very wary of overpriced celestion speakers, potential modders. They have the fame, but not necessarily the game. research before buying.
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:00 PM   #7
311ZOSOVHJH
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PreAmp Tubes

12AX7 or ECC83 (same thing)
Preamp tubes are a common swap. This is true for lots of amps. They cost about $7 - $100 each depending on how much you want to spend. Most people are in the $10-$20 budget a piece. The first preamp is slot/socket 1 (V1). V2 is right next to it under the speaker and V3 is closest to the Power Tubes(on a combo). They are a 9 pin 12AX7 tube. A 12AT7 preamp tube may also work in slots 1 or 2 for a smoother tone with less gain. The '10th' pin is dead and missing and faces the front of the amp. There is a picture of this, the tube, etc below. To get to the preamp tube remove the aluminum casing by pushing toward panel, turning counter-clockwise and sliding off. Opposite to put back on, follow the groves. See above for links to US tube distributors.

dougstubes.com *****
thetubestore.com
tubedepot.com
eurotubes.com (US only)



European sites for ordering
http://www.watfordvalves.com/and
http://www.hotroxuk.com/
Hotrox offers matched tubes where as alot of other places do not. Hope this helps my fellow UK'ers. Also try guitarguitar.co.uk. - Credit Lycan_ste

This is my V3.






Here is what one of my Electro Harmonix 12AX7 preamp tube looks like. It has 9 pins.



Once the cover is off, the tube is pulled strait out, not screwed out. You may have to wiggle it a bit back and forth. Be careful not to bend or break a pin.

Here is what the Preamp Socket looks like. Notice pin placement. Front of amp is usually oriented to pin/position #1. See where it says 'Index'. Facing front.

This is the V1 Socket in the corner with camera crammened in there. lol



"Generally your V1 is going to be your clean tube, V2 gain and then V3 is the Phase Inverter. But all three do talk to each other in a sense so it's best to get a good combination going. So, don't skimp out on V1's quality just because you are looking for more gain.

The phase inverter is part of the power amp in a sense. The signal is supplied to the phase inverter from the preamp. The power amp in divided into two sections, each section amplifying part of the signal. The two signals are combined back at the Output Transformer (OT). The phase inverters job is to split the preamp signal into two halves, each half a mirror image of the other. If one is out of whack you will notice different frequencies out of proportion with one another. They're balanced so that notes are represented equally and they sustain/decay equally.

Also it's one of the hardest working preamp tubes and it's recommended you change it out when you replace your power tubes if not every other time. It's also one of the most important tubes in your amp. It is what takes your preamp information and passes it along to the Power Tubes. It provides your output stage distortion tone, character, and amp feel." - credit IbanezPsycho

....Mike.h's last config
V1 TungSol
V2 Mullard
V3 JAN Phillips 5751

"The Tung Sol adds A TON of brightness and a TON of clarity. Some people might like the brightness. I put the Mullard in V2 because it's like a JJ but without the mud. [JAN Phillips] 5751 is a good phase inverter tube, so in V3 it went.

I would stay away from JJ 12AX7's altogether, especially in VK's. JJ's just continue emphasizing the unwanted tonal qualities of the VK. [They are darker like the Mullards and the VK is already a dark 'voiced' amp]

I recommend using Tung Sol V1, and 2 5751's for the other slots. That would probably be the best config for the VK. Add a boost [OD Pedal] infront to make up for the lost gain (not much)" - Credit Mike.h

ValveKing doesn't have tubes dedicated to each channel.

I believe it's run like many others - one half of the tube controls the gain channel, other half runs the clean. V1 is your typical input stage, V2 should be your clean/gain stage, V3 is your phase inverter. V1 still has the most influence over your tone. Tung Sol + V1 = BRIGHT. 12AT7's and JAN Phillips 5751's are the tubes you want in phase inverter position (V3). - Credit Mike.h



****************


Power Tubes


6L6 GC
Power Tubes are usually Ruby 6L6GC MSTR in the stock unit and are 'non-adjustable' fixed biased. They could be JJs (Tesla) or another brand as Peavey has a tendency to use whatever is available in the bin. However, they are non-adjustable fixed so you can swap without rebiasing the amp if you match exactly to factory setting and order 'matched' tubes. JJ 6L6s are popular with VKr's as well as other amps. They tend to be 'darker' (like the Mullards) so maybe ask in the VK forum here before deciding. Mullards are also 'darker'. TungSol's would be considered 'brighter'. See above for links to US tube distributors. These are 8 pin tubes with Pins 1 and 6 being blank so there is a total of 6 actual pins. They match up with the numbering scheme printed on tube socket as well as tube itself.

"Well the schematic tells me it's a non-adjustable fixed bias. So it's just change tubes and play. Just as if it were cathode bias. Cathode bias means at an incredibly basic level non-adjustable bias designed for one tube type, ergo you just plug the new ones in with no worries at all, no rebiasing. Essentially the Valveking is set up to be the same. No bias pot that I can see." - Credit MrCarrot.

It other words, you would have to have it modded to add a bias pot in so that a biasing tool could be used. This would be necessary if you wanted to move to a non-standard power tube like 6V6 or EL34. Not sure on KT88s. My Ruby's btw were matched at 44 mAmps. At least that is what is written on them. Either way they are balanced and 'matched' at the store and sent in pairs. Do not use one flavor of Power Tube mixed with another.




To remove the power tube push down on the silver clamp to release its pressure and pull the tube strait out. You may have to wiggle it a bit back and forth. Once removed it is recommended to spray some contact cleaner in there. This will help the process down the road. It can be tricky getting the tube back in so be patient. Basically, there is not a lot of support behind these sockets and they get depressed when you try to put new tube in. You have to play with the tube screw brackets, the holes, and the screw to get everything to catch and screw back in nicely. MAKE SURE your power tube is seated all the way in. If you can see the pins you may not have it down all the way.



Notice on my pic above the tubes are facing up because the amp is upside down you can see the pins on the second power tube. That means that it is not 'seated' all the way. I need to get this fixed. I would say it is not a good idea to pull the power tubes unless needed as these sockets need more support. It was suggested that could be 'modded' in but I would have an amp tech do it.


Here is the Power Tube itself. Mine are starting to look a little old.




This is the bottom of the Power Tube. There are numbers there that correspond with the pin. I'm holding the screw holes with my fingers so you can see how it matches up to the socket.




Here is the Power Tube socket. Again, the pin numbers are printed on here too.



This is the natural glow of a power tube. It is normal for hints of blue or purple at each end of the power tube. You can read up more on Power Tubes in the 'Tubes' sticky.




If the tubes look brighter than this or are red at the base plate then shut the amp off and get it fixed. 'Red plating' is not good and cause other more serious damage if not corrected. If you notice that your volume starts to drop dramatically after 5 minutes of play then that is usually an indication that the Power Tubes are dying. It is recommended to replace them at this time and not to wait until they fail altogether as this can cause other damage to the amp. Again, they work in pairs (with 2 or 4 total usually) so if one dies, often the other will die too.


If the amp won't turn on at all it could be a blown Main fuse. This is the fuse next to the power cord. I don't have a picture but it some have a green cover cap. Unscrew that with a flat head screwdriver and it will pop out. Look at it like a christmas tree light. If the tiny metal wire connector inside is snapped then the fuse is bad. Some fuses are colored and you can't see, but just get a new one. They are cheap. Less than $1 at Radio Shack.

There is also an HT (High Tension) fuse inside the main chassis. This fuse regulates the power section. So if the amp turns on (indicator light) but the power tubes do not glow and there is no sound then it could be a blown HT fuse. Again, it is recommended that if you do not have a decent knowledge of electronics then you may want to take it to an amp tech to check.
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:28 PM   #8
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A lot of people on here claimed it helped slightly, so I decided to give it a try. In my opinion, it's just rediculous how much such a small thing improves the tone.
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:29 PM   #9
311ZOSOVHJH
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THESE ARE VARIOUS COMMENTS FROM THE OLD VK THREAD!! 2007-2008

http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/foru...07&page=1&pp=20


Additional NEW information can be found here:
http://ultimate-guitar-valveking.wikispaces.com/



Great trouble-shooting exercise (thx - Kevin Saale)
http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/foru...ad.php?t=963011

IbanezPsycho's Bad Monkey mod
http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/foru...d.php?t=1034068

old**********

MasterWerk #33 - "I have a 112, retubed with JJ's and I have swapped the speaker with an Eminence Texas Heat. I'm surprised at the amount of low end this little combo has. nice and tight, with decent highs - not the icepick to the eardrum highs I usually hear in cheap 112's.

Sid McCall #64 - "So I just dropped in my new eminence redcoat speaker, and the amp is a million times better. I can't wait until it's fully broken in!

Lynchworm #81 - "Well, I would get a matched set from www.tubedepot.com (great website) Just let them you know you have the Valveking. They gave me a tube bias # of 16

Lynchworm #170 - "I just dropped the Celestion g12T-100 into my Valveking 112 and I love it!!! It was exactly what I wanted. It has a very tight low end with AMAZING HARMONICS! It is a very clear speaker and does not have overpowering mids. I like mids but I prefer to dial them in on the amp. Anyway, if anyone is looking for a clear speaker with a hint of grit and the qualities i mentioned above, try it out. I got mine for 67.00 shipped @avatarspeakers.com
Keep in mind that this is after trying the Vintage 30 and a Jensen Mod speaker. This speaker is not broken in yet either. Anyway, just thought I would share that.

ParryPerson #257 "http://www.netmusicians.org/index.p...lue=ParryPerson
Thought I would post this here.
99 Gibson Les Paul --> VK Head into 4 WGS GB's with a bad monkey in front.

bartdevil_metal #273 "^It won't affect the maximum power it can put out, it will just saturate the power tubes more. New tubes affect the tone of the amp more than the volume, though some tubes can increase the headroom of the amp, such as KT88 power tubes.

MrCarrot #288 "Well the schematic tells me it's a non-adjustable fixed bias. So it's just change tubes and play. Just as if it were cathode bias. Cathode bias means at an incredibly basic level non-adjustable bias designed for one tube type, ergo you just plug the new ones in with no worries at all, no rebiasing. Essentially the valveking is set up to be the same. No bias pot that I can see.

IbanezPsycho #328 "After reviewing the schematic i noticed that there was a string of diodes that engaged when you activated the gain button so i did some research and after checking a whole lot of sources its confirmed the gain button pressed in results in diode clipping.
Which explains a whole lot of opinions, concerns, issues and why the amp reacts the way it does.
Also not running the switch pushed in does make the amp sound like night and day but for metal applications it takes a huge push now to get it there because of the gain loss.

mike.h - #364 "So after reading some websites like amptone.com and stuff, I decided to try using the Bad Monkey in the effects loop, so its basically acting like a post distortion EQ, smoothing the clipping of the path. It also drives the power tubes for some nice saturation. I uploaded a really short clip. The recording makes it sound a bit boxy though. Read the description )
http://boomp3.com/listen/byuhcbs9e_a/holydiver

IbanezPsycho - #383 "After messing with mine over the last two weeks or so i actually prefer the boost's off and bad monkey ran infront of the amp with eq in the loop. Usually use the eq as a master volume as well so i can push the preamps alot harder. With the boosts off the tone is alot smoother but you really have push it to get a nice metal tone out of it and its lacking some sustain. But its alot more pleasant then the harsher boosted side of the amp. Im not a big fan of diode clipping circuits for amp distortion.

DisplacedLogig - 397 "I emailed Peavey about the channel delay in switching. They said the newer VK's don't have a specific cap in them anymore (C124). They said pull it out and it should be good to go. (I'll fwd the email if anyone wants). Schematic can be found here. Then click PVvalveking112. (my comp is all screwed up and it never displays the .pdf when I direct link it.) That SHOULD do the trick, as per Peavey. (for older VK's not the newer ones)-311

IbanezPsycho - #453 "Guitar into input in homemade pedal then A output to whatever effects you want then the same for B output then you can do a Y from pedals into the input into the amp or just run A output to low input on amp and B output to high input on amp. Then wire up the VK stomp to switch channels. So you can fat foot the A switch and the VK switch for clean switch with effects and vice versus. (in regards to creating a footswitch that can switch between channels using both guitar inserts, one having the pedals)-311

IbanezPsycho - #479 "Also i just started up a Valveking Group, so if you own a VK or fixing to own a VK go ahead and join its going to be a place to talk about mods, settings, tips and tricks and general amp talk.
Heres the link http://groups.ultimate-guitar.com/valveking/

sg622 - #507 "Just a tip for all of you guys looking for better bass response. For the 112 version, make sure the switch on the back of the amp is on loose. I just recently discovered it. I always kept it on tight thinking that it added to the flub, but with the right EQing and with the od, everything is really boomy and sounds HUGE. Its great for heavy chugga chugga stuff

Hakael - #518 (insert jack diff)-311
"High Gain Input
Used for most electric guitars. It is 10dB louder than Low Gain input.
Low Gain Input
Provided for instruments that have extremely high outputs, which can result in overdriving (distorting) the High Gain input. If both inputs are used simultaneously, the levels are the same (both are Low Gain).

Grog_ZE #519 "I have just discovered a trick to get alot more gain out the VK head not sure if itll work on the 112 probly would on the 212 Connect your effects loop together with a short patch chord it seem that alot of the pre amp signal is diverterd there and it dulls down the distortion since it isnt conected

sg622 - #540 "yea definately get an eq pedal. NOTHING and I MEAN NOTHING has changed my tone for the better as much as the EQ pedal has. I wish i would have gotten this first and not have wasted my money on expensive distortion pedals.
(MXR 10 band is the 'best', Danelectro Fish n Chips 7 band is the best 'value' pedal at $40)-311

4949oz - #567 "I wouldn't say gained up, there is a definite clarity increase for me, but here's the catch, I only notice it in the impeded input (#2). It definitely breathes better, and the overall presence is astounding. something about it is just more "Sparkly" to the ears. I pretty much only use the #2 input, I think it compresses the signal and sounds more natural than the first input, more valve-like. Stays cleaner at higher volumes, which is good cause I like really crisp cleans.
I wouldn't say that the speaker is tighter, but that the resonance is less loose on the bottom end, but not as much (on the 112) as it would be with the switch in tight. And as far as "attenuator" feel, I think it sounds like that because it's just breathing better. Valves breathe better when getting cooked a tiny bit, but to scale it down to normal level, you use an attenuator.
This loop bypass is a wonderful trick, and I'm going to get a patch cable and run my amp like this from now on. maybe even hardwire it in with a switch somewhere in the back. I hope it doesn't, but I doubt that it will harm my amp in any way over long term use, might wear out the tubes quicker, but that's good GOOD I want to replace them. The stock ones are crap.

IbanezPsycho - #589 "Quick update the effects loop trick works.... Found out the issue, treble was to high so with the clarity boost I was hearing how harsh the treble was on the amp lol. Or its acting like a bright switch in a since. Either way treble down and clarity is threw the roof now.

And to one up yall, it gets even better when you have something else plugged into the other input.

bartdevil_metal - #569 "You guys! This is what I was trying to tell you about, with my multi fx rack in the FX loop. It "quietens down" your signal, and clarifies it a bit, just by having something there. Trust me to badly exaplin it only for someone else to discover it (sarcasm)-311

IbanezPsycho - #613 "Both clips are of the VK and Ultra ran in stereo so both amps are ran at once. But when i mic it the two mics are recording in stereo to make up a stereo track but if you do a play back its not as full so make a copy of the track and you pan one to the left and one to the right to make the sound fuller and it is a better stereo tone.
With clip 3 its done the same way but instead of me copying the track and make two tracks i recorded one track then recorded my self playing the exact same track.



Happy VK'ing
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:34 PM   #10
bartdevil_metal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GNRjungle87
Question: Does the dummy jack mod really work? Does it clear up some of the tone a lot? Or just slightly enough that you would barely notice it?


Definitley works, and works well. It's such a cheap mod that you can do it on the off chance it works anyway.
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:37 PM   #11
leadfootdriver
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Put a 12AT7 in V3. (closest to the tubes on the 112) You get more clairity and dynamics. There's still plenty of gain left.
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:45 PM   #12
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*********Continued (old thread)*************



Frettila - #628 "As results of my investigation on my VK112, I think the tone stack of the VK112 (and I think the other VKs also) is the same as the Marshall tone stack, but with different resistor and cap values. But these values give you a very similar curve. A major difference to marshall amps, is that the VK112 has 6L6GC power tubes. They sound different compared to EL34s used in almost all marshall amp. But many amp give you the choice, and run with 6L6GCs, and EL34s also. It depends on you. Other things that shape your sound are, the cab/combo quality, structure, and the speaker. Cab/combo quality and structure are hard to change, but the speaker could be changed easy. That's what I'll try next week. Another plan for the future to use ECC83 tubes in the preamp. I don't really like the VK112s distorted sound with these stock speakers. I think these are cheap all-round speakers, to give you an average sound on the clean channel - which has a Fender-like, but not exactly the same tone stack, but the cap and resistor values give you a Fender sound curve, and an average sound on the dirty channel. I think that's the issue with the stock speaker.

Back to your question. I don't really like the amps distorted sound at "AB" texture setting (at the VK112s back), but an OD pedal, like a tubescreamer (I have an TS9DX as it came out from the shop), or an SD-1 (mine is modded by myself , could improve the sound, and make it acceptable. I have to mention here, I don't use the gain boost switch. With "A" texture setting, the VK sounds better to me. I just kick my OD, it is always on during playing. Sometimes I put in an EQ before any distortion. A moderate mid-boost (an almost flat upside-down V shape), could be also handy. Sometimes I have a modded GCB-95 wah (a resistor changed to a potentiometer, a kind of "Q" mod), in a stationery position.

IbanezPsycho - #629 "Easyest way to find a good eq i find is to get a decent eqing on amp first then tweak with eq in the effects loop from there. I prefer mids boosted, i usually boost them on the amp then boost them again with the eq pedal. Also on the pedal i like to take out the 2k freq its a buzzy sucker and usually makes everything harsh.

311zoso - #632 "Thanks IbanezPsycho i'm going to post some pics and hopefully a better explanation. Also, I plugged just a jack head (headphone adapter i think) into 1st input jack and guitar into 2nd input jack and there was a huge difference. Much more clear, louder, better. Much more noticable then effects loop thingy.

311zoso - #651 "guitar > VK Input #2 > amp > FX out > 5ft patch > FX in > amp > VK Input #1 going out to Frontman FM > FM Input #1 = stereo
uumm...yeah
i know, it's been done before but damn i wanna have fun! (after IP helped me hook up my Fender FM solid state amp to run in stereo)

4949oz - #740 "anybody else here use a rp250?
You'd be amazed at how realistic those things sound. Don't ever use the factory presets though, they sound like crap.
One thing I've noticed, whilst recording, you can use it for clean chorus/reverb/delay in the effects loop, and use it as a bit of a boost while you're at it, it works for that stuff best in the fx loop.

sg622 - #791 "
an od:
bad monkeys are like 50 bucks
a tubescreamer which is much better quality is around 100 but a bad monkey will suffice

and eq:
a fish n chips is like 30 bucks and is pretty good but is not gig worthy
a mxr ten eq will run you 120 dollars. This is the most incredible pedal though and is worth every penny.

a speaker: you can get a v30 clone from warehousespeakers.com and they cost around 50 bucks and this is the cheapeset good speaker you will find

311zoso - #866 "The only thing that is extra from a knob perspective on the 212 is two Damping controls. I'm typing this strait out of the manual. You would have to talk to someone with a 212 probably to get info on whether or not they hear a difference.

Presence - used to fine tune high-frequency response and damping factor of the power amp sections. At higher settings, the speakers are allowed to move more freely at high frequencies, resulting in more apparent high end.

Resonance - used to fine tune the low-frequency response and damping factor of the power amp section. At higher settings, the speakers are allowed to move more freely at lower frequencies, resulting in more apparent low end with slightly less signal clarity at maximum settings. (differences in 112 to 212 outside of extra speaker, extra 50 watts of overhead, extra cab out ohm options)-311

IbanezPsycho - #922 "Bad Monkey has a bit more level and no mid hump to color your sound. I Owned a tubescreamer and modifed tubescreamer and got rid of them for the Bad Monkey. And just put it up against a MI Audio Boost N' Buff and the Bad monkey killed it as well.

bartdevil_metal - #943 (EQ setting) Scoop the lower mids, and boost the higher ones slightly. That way you'll reatain the scooped sound while still keeping clarity.
Like this:
(311 to fix later)

IbanezPsycho - #962 "Start flat and go slider by slider boost it to +15 and then -15 see which freq/tone each one effects then tweak from there. Boost the mids dip out some lows and tweak the highs to taste. Also I like to find a decent setting on the on-board eq first then tweak further with the eq vs setting the knobs at 5 and using purely eq for tone shaping.

IbanezPsycho - #1011 "Warranty doesnt cover tubes so depending on how much it was played and how bad it was abused example turning it on and off properly its never a good idea to buy a floor demo. Unless you plan on re-tubing it. Buying from an individual and getting a answer on how much it was played and when was the last tube change would be a better option then a store demo unit that has no history. Just and FYI...

fretilla - #1085 "Private Jack speaker installed aaaand ... it sounds good! There is an almost inaudible fizz (on dirty channel), at low vol level this british speaker emphasize it a bit more (the original speaker hides it a lot), but it doesn't hurt. You can keep your bedroom vol level for practice, but using an EQ like BOSS GE-7 (or something else) is highly recommended. This way the fizz disappears. No fizz at higher (still neghbour friendly) volumes. The EQ in the effect loop became more efficient, can be used on a wider range, more different tones, the speaker behaves well.

Horlicks - #1133 "^Dude, the G12T-75 sucks, go with the G12K-100
http://www.fjamods.com/Valveking.html
This may be of interest to American VK owners...

gtr_101 - #1156 "
1. Yeah the reverb tanks arnt secured, just throw another screw in.
2. This is because when you set the amp down the springs of the reverb tank bounce.
3. Where you using single coils or the gain boost, this could be why.
4. At low volumes the volume button doesnt really do anything, but at higher volumes you can hear a difference.

IbanezPsycho - #1204 "Feedback issue's

Simple Causes....
Playing within 5 feet of amp
Playing with guitar facing amp
Bad Cable
Gain to high on amp or effect (Fiddle with the level on your bad monkey and amp see if it goes away)
Using Gain Boost

Advanced Causes.....
Tubes might have gone microphonic.
To test this pull of preamp tube shields, turn on amp fully. Turn gain down on amp so you dont hear any feedback or noise but enough give it some volume say 2/3. Take a pencil and use the eraser end of it to gently knudge the tubes and see if you hear any noise or feed back.

Guitar pickups Microphonic- is a high-pitch squeal, more piercing than feedback

Loose connection with guitar wiring. Check jack and make sure everything is good there and there no loose wires or so forth then pull off the cavity plate and check everything in there.

Also a Noise gate will help out with feedback issues. Without one my rig is pretty much useless...

Heres my Ranking on them..
1. Isp Decimator $129.99
2. MXR Smartgate $119.99
3. Boss NS-2 $99.99
4. Rocktron Hush $89.99
5. Behringer Clone $29.99


Most Overdrive pedals work well with this amp. IbanezPsycho has tried them all prefers either a Keeley modded Tubescreemer type pedal or a Digitech Bad Monkey. In either case the best results will be Gain = 0 and Level = 10. Other good OverDrives are made by Boss, MXR, Danelectro, Digitech Hard Wire series, Jyckle and Hyde, Fulltone, etc.

Additional NEW information can be found here:
http://ultimate-guitar-valveking.wikispaces.com/

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Old 10-01-2008, 01:47 PM   #13
leadfootdriver
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I tried the jack mod. I didn't hear any difference. YMMV.
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Old 10-01-2008, 02:08 PM   #14
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Heres some more stuff to add to your list bartdevil_metal

Treble: past 5 (harsh and muddy doesnt clean up well) 0-5 adjust to taste. Imagine 1-5 is your new 0-10

Middle: past 8 (harsh and muddy doesnt clean up well) 0-8 adjust to taste Imagine 1-8 is your new 0-10

Bass: Use as normal, but it lacks alot of bass so this were an EQ pedal helps out considerably

Presence:Use as normal - adds top end harmonics

Resonance:Use as normal - makes the bass response loose or tight

Texture knob:Clockwise Tight thrash tone, Counter Clockwise Loose/Creamy think vintage but a bit muddy

Gain: past 7-8 will get muddy

Volume Button: In or out its a prefrence thing but at bedroom levels you might want to leave it out so you have more control over the volume knob.

Gain Button: Pushed In adds big boost of gain and highs but its really harsh due to Diode Clipping circuit being engaged, only way to clean it up is to push the power tubes harder to mask the harshness. But then your getting out of that tight metal territory. Best option is not to use it and us a OD pedal to push her into metal territory.

Loves OD pedals, Bad Monkey is a great budget pedal and works great on this amp.
Settings Level 10 Gain 0, These settins will work with any OD pedal. Pretty much a must if your playing metal.

Also a EQ pedal is almost a must for fine tuning because of the quirks in the on-board eq'ing. Also there is a nasty little freq that creates alot of fizz in the 2-4k range you will probally want to pull it out with the EQ pedal.

I would check and see what tubes came stock in it. JJ's and Tung Sols are you best options. If you have Rubys or EHX you might want to change them.

Setting wise here is an example of realting the Valvekings eq quirks to standard settings...
Metallicas basic settings are Treble 7 Mid 2 Bass 7
But because of the eq quirks your new settings will look something like this.
Treble 4-4.5 Mid 2 Bass 10
then with the eq add in a touch more bass and a touch more treble and mid to taste.

Mods and Tricks

Jumper cable in the Effects loop activates the Loop Buffer giving you a bit more clarity and level. Works great if you are not using any pedals in the chain already.

Placing a volume pedal or eq pedal in the effects loop will act like a master volume allowing you to in-turn push your preamps a bit harder and allow for final volume adjustment before it hits the poweramps allowing for volume adjustment. Great way to get a great metal tone. This does not affect the poweramp and is not a replacement for an attenuator but is a great way to turn your amp into a master volume amp and push those preamps.

Schematics

Head and 212
http://www.schematicheaven.com/newa...ing_100_212.pdf

112
http://www.schematicheaven.com/newa...king_50_112.pdf


---------------

Hope that helps if yall need me to post anything else just let me know....
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Old 10-01-2008, 02:55 PM   #15
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Added. I'll sort it out later when ive got more time
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Old 10-01-2008, 03:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 311ZOSOVHJH
personally, before you spend any money on speakers and tubes a $50 Bad Monkey will help this amp tremendously. Any OD pedal really, but the BM does a fantastic job for money spent with this amp. ^leadfoot - i will remember that.


Awesome, thanks.

I'm also buying a Tweak Fuzz from a friend for like $40 bucks, so that's a great deal. You think that'll work nicely in some cases to boost solos? (Obviously I'm going to use it for some heavier fuzz effects but I'm thinking I want it for some solo stuff too. (Think Sigillum Diaboli by H.I.M., that solo)

What do you think?
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Old 10-01-2008, 03:48 PM   #17
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Bad Monkey and ValveKing FTW!

Bunch of clips and an original song on my profile. Recordings a bit fizzy but you can get the idea. Gonna change the tubes and speaker eventually. Still getting the all the eq quirks figured out. might buy a 10 band eq if i can't get it just right. Lovin it so far though. AMAZING for the price.
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Old 10-01-2008, 03:52 PM   #18
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Hey, i was thinking about getting the VK Head, but I've heard some bad things about the cab. Just wondering if it was worth getting a different cab, say a Windsor or something. Also, if anyone can suggest a good cheap cab to get?
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Old 10-01-2008, 03:52 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GNRjungle87
First page!

Good amount of info for people looking into the Valveking. Good job!

Edit: I'm looking to probably change the speaker in my VK112 to a V30, and the tubes to JJ's. I feel like I need more bass, and I don't need more gain from the Tung-Sols because I can get that from a Bad Monkey or Tube Screamer...thoughts on these mods?

Thanks!


The VK is quite a dark amp already, and those tubes will make it darker. It could be a bonus because it might tame the treble a bit on the EQ.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallica93
Hey, i was thinking about getting the VK Head, but I've heard some bad things about the cab. Just wondering if it was worth getting a different cab, say a Windsor or something. Also, if anyone can suggest a good cheap cab to get?


Avatar or Vader cabs are cheap and very good quality for the price. Other than that, I've seen some traynor cabs go for cheap.
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Old 10-01-2008, 04:00 PM   #20
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And btw my recordings are without the dummy jack, because i'm short on cables and have to use that jack to record. but i do use the dummy jack when not recording and it really tightens it up.
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