Page 177 of 177
So I went ahead and did the mod - had to remove the ground connection on the blender pot.

Here is a completed and tested version of the ModCon, a mod with a series buckerish push/pull switch and a telecaster/parallel sounds blender knob:

With the tele blend knob up you get the sweetest sound in positions 2 and 4 (all three pickups in parallel), and a great telecaster sound in pos 1&5. Pos 3 is standard strat middle pup.

With the series push/pull engaged you get a fat buckerish sound on the bridge position and a really interesting fat but full of character sound in pos 2. Pos 3-5 are standard strat sounds. It is a bit like having an HSS strat.

And of course it is just a standard strat with a master tone knob and 50's tone wiring when neither the push/pull or tele blend knob are engaged.

Thanks to Don from Breja ToneWorks for the inspiration, for making guitar electronics understandable and for a template to design on.

I'm planning on building a Manson Replica, and I need some help.

What wiring kit should I use? I'm gonna be replicating the Manson DL-1, which has two pickups (a humbucker, and a p90) so I would want a 3-way toggle switch along with 500k tone pots, but that's about all I know about wiring and electronics. So I wouldn't want to wire it myself, I would want a kit.

What type of kit should I use? There are no kits for Manson guitars, but what about PRS or Gibson wiring kits?

You can look at the knobs and toggle switch of the guitar I want to replicate (the pickup switcher is the bottom switch) here:

I'm trying to wire up 2 active pickups without using a switch or tone pots, only using 2 volume pots to blend them. I want to blend both pickup, not having one master pot and the other a blend pot. Is it possible? How should I wire them?
Last edited by fluffrier at Feb 22, 2017,
Hi everyone,

I've scoured the internet, I've read through about half of this thread, and I can't find my specific issue covered. Help me if you will.

I have a T60 toaster pickup. It has a white, red, black, and bare lead. The red lead reads 9.2k against white and black. The white and black leads read 4.6k against each other and red.

So, that means red is hot output for both coils, and then white and black are hot output for individual coils. Am I correct so far?

What I want to do is wire it to a DPDT (ON, ON) switch for simple coil splitting. One position is humbucker, other position is single coil.

I can find plenty of resources for wiring this up, HOWEVER what confuses me is which lead goes where.

My initial thought would be to simply send either white or black lead to the switch, one position continues it to vol pot to meet the other leads, other position shorts it to ground.

Is this correct?
Will it work, but perhaps there's a better method?

If the dual-coil lead (red) is sent straight to vol pot like I'm suggesting, would shorting white or black to ground even do anything?

Please help enlighten me, I feel like I've almost got my head wrapped around this.

Sorry if there is an obvious solution, I truly have tried every search terminology I can think of.

Thanks all,
Good day
Here's a factory wiring diagram for the T-60:

And for reference here's a diagram for a Horizon from the same era:

The only major difference between them is that the T-60 has a phase reversal switch.

The white wire is the "hot" wire, red is the tap, and black (green on the Horizon) is ground. To do a coil split, all you have to do is short across one of the coils of the pickup you want to control. Get a SPST switch (on/off) [DPDT works too but you'll only need 2 terminals) and wire it to the red and white wires of the pickup. If it causes an out-of-phase sound (thin, quiet, and generally not great), then you can wire it to the red and black wires instead.
Quote by Invader Jim
...To do a coil split, all you have to do is short across one of the coils of the pickup you want to control...

...and wire it to the red and white wires of the pickup...

Ok thanks for the reply. I'm still a little lost. I usually need things broken down to layman's terms, sorry.

You're saying wire WHITE to one post, RED to second post, then wire the post with WHITE to my vol pot/pup selecter? Is that right?

Also, let me see if I have a grasp on this. If I were to want a regular, series humbucker out of this, I could just wire the WHITE to a vol pot, and the RED and BLACK to ground? That would get me the full, series wired humbucker sound?

So if I wire the switch like I described, I'm shorting out one coil by joining the RED to WHITE?

Am I way off?
It's no trouble, man. I like helping people understand this stuff but it's been quite a long time since I've actively dealt with it though so I may be a bit rusty.

Leave the red wire unconnected to get the full humbucker sound. White is the hot wire so it'll go to the volume pot (if there's a volume for each pickup) or selector switch (if there's only a single master volume). To split the humbucker all you have to do is short out either of the coils, which means having a switch to connect the red wire to either the black or white wire. This will leave one coil or the other active depending on whether you connect the red to black or to white; if you've got multiple pickups then you'll want to make sure you don't have a phasing problem when the humbucker is split (the sound gets shrill and tinny and output is lower). If you have a phase issue just wire the red lead to the other wire to fix it.

I don't know if you have just a T-60 pickup that you're wanting to use or are working on an actual T-60 guitar. If you have the guitar, it basically already does the coil split with its tone pots. Old Peaveys used an interesting setup that has the tone pot split the coils automatically (which is why the red wire is there), basically using a pot to take the place of a switch. From 10 down to about 7 it gives the brightest sound by having the humbucker run in split mode. Below 7 it starts bringing in the tone cap, acting just like a regular tone control. This setup would also work with a 4-wire humbucker or even 2 entire pickups (the catch is that you need an S-taper pot, which aren't terribly common).
Quote by Invader Jim
(Custom wiring explanation)

Dude, thanks so much, that's exactly how I needed it explained. One question about it. If I'm running WHITE to vol pot, and RED to switch, how do I get WHITE to the switch to achieve shorting them? Just run an extra wire from vol pot IN where I ran the WHITE from pickup? Or take WHITE to switch before continuing to vol pot? Will it work either way?

Quote by Invader Jim
(T-60 wiring explanation)

So yes, I do have a T-60. It was hiding in the back room of an instrument shop I just started working at. I bought it off the shop for $60. It was mostly original, except it only came with one toaster pickup, and all the wiring was botched. I appreciate the innovative wiring scheme Peavey had on this guitar. However, I like my humbuckers really bright, and I don't really care for a phase switch. So the plan is to put the toaster in the neck position, wire it to the switch for a coil split instead of polarity flip, and for the bridge position I have an epi humbucker that only has one lead and ground, so I'll be wiring that normal.

I've got 500k pots to replace the original 250k's so my humbuckers will be bright, and I can roll off tone for the single coil split. The guitar did come with the original pots, two 250k audio tapers and two 250k S tapers. The audio tapers look like they got burned somehow (maybe just over-soldering), but the S tapers look fine. I'm definitely holding on to them in case I ever decide to return the T-60 to stock wiring.

Thanks so much for your help, invader, I'm really excited to get this thing wired up and making some noise!
Quote by guitar874
Dude, thanks so much, that's exactly how I needed it explained. One  question about it. If I'm running WHITE to vol pot, and RED to switch,  how do I get WHITE to the switch to achieve shorting them? Just run an  extra wire from vol pot IN where I ran the WHITE from pickup? Or take  WHITE to switch before continuing to vol pot? Will it work either way?

It will work either way but it's convention to take the pickup to the volume pot first, then to the switch.

That's a pretty good deal, though it's unfourtunate that it didn't come with both pickups (incidentally, I was browsing eBay the other day and there's no shortage of those Peavey toaster pickups). I have a Horizon from '83 and I love that thing. It's all-original except the pickup switch, which I accidentally broke. Definitely hang on to those pots. While you can still buy S-tapers (afaik) you never see them used in anything anymore so you can't really salvage them from anything.
I'm in the process of laying down the planning for my first full guitar rewiring.
My guitar, an Epiphone SG, 2hums, 3way, 2vol, 2tone.
I've pretty much never had my tone knobs on anything other than 10, so I wanted to try something new.
Found this treble/bass mod I'd like to try out. (source:
Putting in a fresh set of hums along with a single coil in the middle.
Swapping the 3way, with a 5wayswitch.
1. Bridge Hum 2. Bridge Single Coil+Middle, 3. Middle, 4. Neck Single Coil+Middle, 5. Neck Hum. 
For the volume I figured I'd have one 250k pot for the single coil, and run the rest trough, a 500k master.
Will running the single coil trough the 250k and then trough the 500k master cause any issues?
Here's the diagram I made based of one I found at

I welcome any criticism/advice  

Last edited by mathias.strommen at Aug 15, 2017,
Quote by DrRockzo
Has anyone tried using jimmy page style wiring with active emg's?

I'm pretty sure this isn't possible, because active EMGs are only two-conductor. They're also sealed in epoxy resin, so you can't split the coils yourself. 

Edit: The closest you can probably get is by using an EMG 89 (dual mode pickup with a stacked humbucker and single coil) and the EMG Pi2 accessory.
Last edited by -MintSauce- at Sep 24, 2017,
I've searched a pretty good amount, but can't quite find the schematic I'm looking for.

I've got a hum(bridge)/single(neck) configuration and wanting to use a 5 way switch with the following:
Full hum
Bridge(recommend best h,s,p)/neck

I also want a master volume and to use a push/pull with tone on or off. And I have a momentary killswitch.

Is this possible? If so is there a readily available schematic? Or anybody that can scribble one up?

Last edited by noregrets1543 at Oct 27, 2017,
Hey there, just following one of Don Breja's tutorials on YouTube - magnificent work BTW!.

Super HSH Wiring Scheme: search: ueqdO1nyc8I - and I have one question...

I did email Don, and received an email back indicating he was awfully busy at the moment, and possible couldn't guarantee a timely response. He did however suggest I put it out to a forum for expert advice in the meantime.
So, I’m using CTS push pull pots with connections marked 1, C1, 2, 3, C2  & 4 (google CTS Push Pull Pots). I’m not sure what correlates with Don's tutorial diagrams on the DPDT switch marked A1, A2, A3 and B1, B2, B3?
I would really appreciate if anyone could point me in the right direction.
A1 = ?
A2 = ?
B3 = ?
B1 = ?
B2 = ?
B3 = ?