Page 98 of 98
codyrex97
Registered User
Join date: Mar 2015
32 IQ
#3881
Another question for you guys. I'm trying to find out what kind of tuners are "best" on an acoustic.
Mine's a Yamaha FD01S and I love the thing so far. Been trying to look up opinions on tuners but haven't found much yet.

Thanks in advance!
Paleo Pete
Registered User
Join date: Sep 2007
33 IQ
#3882
Are the tuners giving you problems?

If not, don't fix it.

Kluson and Grover are both good, I'm not familiar with any of the newer ones, I haven't had to replace a tuner since 1997 when I had to find some old open back ones for my 66 Harmony...

Sorry don't know too much about pickguard sources, the only one I replaced (on my strat) was on sale at a guitar shop. If you have to drill holes, it's not hard, use a very small drill and put some masking tape on it to use as a depth gauge. Mine were all pretty close, I had to fill some of the old holes with toothpicks and put the new screws on the sides of the old holes because they were off center and some of the old holes were wallowed out anyway. Go slow and easy and use tape for a depth gauge, only drill about 3/8 inch deep.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
Last edited by Paleo Pete at Mar 20, 2015,
codyrex97
Registered User
Join date: Mar 2015
32 IQ
#3883
Yeah, no problems with the tuners so far. Just wondering about good brands if I ever do need to replace them. And thanks for the info on that and the pickguard drilling tips!
Paleo Pete
Registered User
Join date: Sep 2007
33 IQ
#3884
Should have also mentioned, I have a white metal marker I use, and tape sometimes when I can't find the marker...But then I was a machinist for 8 years and I picked up a few tools most people don't ever need...micrometers, calipers, indicators, brass shim stock, drills, taps, reamers...the metal marker was invaluable in machine work, I've kept a couple on hand ever since. Not sure where to get them, but try a hardware store. White is good because you can see it really well, excellent for marking a depth gauge on a drill bit.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
Last edited by Paleo Pete at Mar 20, 2015,
codyrex97
Registered User
Join date: Mar 2015
32 IQ
#3885
Yeah, been watching lots of videos for working on a guitar and most people seem to use tape, occasionally marker. Several things I'm thinking of doing to the Yamaha mentioned before. Such as, nut and saddle upgrade to bone. Switch white dot inlays for something prettier like pearl. And most importantly get some strap buttons on her. Can't take the weird feeling attaching strap to headstock.

Still unsure which changes I'd like to attempt myself and which would better be left to a professional. Any tips?
Paleo Pete
Registered User
Join date: Sep 2007
33 IQ
#3886
Saddle for an acoustic is pretty simple, sand the bottom to get the height you need, drop it in. Nut is a bit more difficult, if you don't have nut slot files take it to a good shop. IF you do it yourself, use just one drop of plain elmer's glue against the vertical surface of the neck, not the base sitting on the headstock. That makes it a whole lot easier to remove if necessary later. Don't even think about super glue. Super Glue is very rarely a good idea on a guitar, most things you want to be easily repaired. Super Glue will rip wood off if you try to remove it. Wood glue too. That's why I use plain white Elmer's for a nut. Tap it with a wood block and it pops off. For the Fender slotted type you have to use a straight punch and drive it out sideways.

I'd leave the inlays alone, that's a lot of serious woodwork, you have to be exact with it, if you leave any lumps or cracks your fingers feel them when playing.

Strap buttons aren't hard, where to put it depends on the type of neck. IF it's a bolt on neck, they are usually bolted to a big wood block inside, like my old Epiphone, you can put a strap peg below the neck into that wood block. For a glued in set neck I put the one in my Takamine on the underside of the neck at the heel. It's out of the way when I play, I checked out several at music stores to see how they were mounted before doing mine. Always mark the drill, you don't want a hole all the way through...

Here's a pretty good youtube for it, I put mine a little further from the fingerboard than he does here. Note his depth gauge on the drill...Mine is about in the middle, almost 2 inches from the fret board. I like it and it works fine, out of the way of my fingers when I play it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7u7b-ePdeAg

My favorite guitar site with a good article you should read.

http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/repair/acoustic-guitar/strap-button.php

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/GenSetup/StrapButton/strapbutton1.html

The second article has a good picture of peg placement on a bolt on neck.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
codyrex97
Registered User
Join date: Mar 2015
32 IQ
#3887
Haha! I have seen all three of the guides you showed. Been researching strap button jobs (among other things) for like a week. Saw a picture of a cracked heel and wanted to absorb every ounce of information I could find to make sure that I don't do that! Heard about not using super glue too. Reassuring to hear your advice, makes me feel as though I actually have been learning the good information.

I researched as much as possible about Yamaha guitars and it is said that their acoustics have glued necks and not bolted ones, which was nice to find out because I wasn't confident enough to put one in the heel if it was a bolted neck, though I didn't really wanna go about putting it in the bass side of the body next to the heel. Now I feel like it will be an easy job.

As for the inlays, I was questionable about that myself so may not go through with that as a DIY project. Rather have perfect white dots than f***ed up pearl ones.

Thank you again for all your provided information!
"I think it's so cool that you can pick up the guitar and create something that didn't exist 5 minutes ago."
gen0doom
Registered User
Join date: Feb 2007
351 IQ
#3888
Hey, I'm looking to replace the stock tuners on a Hamer XT Standard I bought 8 years ago for £250. (Just mentioning this as a guide to the quality of the stock ones!) Any recommendations for a new set, and is there anything I need to know about replacing tuners?

Thanks
Paleo Pete
Registered User
Join date: Sep 2007
33 IQ
#3889
Kluson, Grover and Gotoh all make good tuners.

You need to find out the hole size already in the guitar, opening them up a little more is possible but can result in chipped paint job. Be careful what set you get, they come in 3x3 and 6 on one side.

But why are you replacing them? As far as I know Hamer uses pretty good tuners, and I always stick to the old saying if it ain't broke don't fix it. I wanted to buy a Hamer a few years back, our jobs dropped to nothing and I missed it, the tuners were good ones, Grover I think. I'm still using the cheapo tuners that came stock on my Squier Strat, been playing it since 1997. They work great, never had any trouble at all, and I know they are cheap ones. If you string your guitar right you should have no trouble, even the 50 year old open back tuners on my 1966 Harmony still work perfect. The similar open back tuners on my 1950's lap steel still work perfect.

If it's giving you trouble, first find out if it's your stringing method causing it, not the tuners. If you have too many wraps, it takes forever to take all the stretch out. I use no more than 2 wraps, never have any tuning problems at all, even with the cheapest tuners on any of my guitars, and those are 50 and 60 years old...
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
Omnius
Registered User
Join date: Apr 2011
44 IQ
#3890
Hey, I've been thinking of adding an EMG PA-2 preamp to my guitars (I have both active and passive ones) as a way of pushing an overdriven amp rather then use a pedal for it.

Here's my question: since I don't want to drill any more holes in the guitar body, is it possible to switch an existing pot to one with push-pull and use the PA2 that way? (for instance, tone pot being pushed to activate the PA2)

Thanks!
codyrex97
Registered User
Join date: Mar 2015
32 IQ
#3891
I've heard fret buzz from frets 1-5 is generally remedied with a truss rod adjustment. Is this probably the best way?

All six strings are prone to buzz throughout frets 1-5 so I'm assuming it's not a high fret, and saddle seems fine, only things I could see to fix would be a truss rod adjustment or nut replacement if nut slots are too low. How straight should a neck be?
"I think it's so cool that you can pick up the guitar and create something that didn't exist 5 minutes ago."
Paleo Pete
Registered User
Join date: Sep 2007
33 IQ
#3892
Omnius - As far as I know, a push pull pot would probably work.

codyrex - Check the nut height. http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/GenSetup/NutAction/nutaction.html

To check neck relief (truss rod adjustment) capo the 1st fret, fret at the 14th. Check distance between top and bottom strings at the 7th fret, should be .010" to .015" as a general rule.

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/GenSetup/TrussRods/TrussRodAdj/tradj.html
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
codyrex97
Registered User
Join date: Mar 2015
32 IQ
#3893
So both tests came up with bad results; there is a microscopic amount of space between the string and fret on both tests. Definitely too low. Not sure if I should attempt to work through this myself or rely on a luthier to do the job for me.

By the way, Pete I drilled into her and put on the strap button a little while after our talk. Came out lookin' good! If I do say so myself.
"I think it's so cool that you can pick up the guitar and create something that didn't exist 5 minutes ago."
Paleo Pete
Registered User
Join date: Sep 2007
33 IQ
#3894
That looks like about where mine is. Looks good.

I'm not sure what to think, I guess first thing I would do is try a truss rod adjustment, chances are better neck relief might cure the fret buzz. If you have miniscule clearance when checking nut height, it might be iffy, but I would try that first. Find where the truss rod nut is, loosen it 1/4 turn, no more, let it sit overnight to settle in. If you still have trouble, do the same, no more than 1/4 turn at a time. Let it settle overnight every time, the wood doesn't just snap into place.

By the time you do two 1/4 turn adjustments, that's usually enough for most of the time, once you have good neck relief, going by what I posted above, if you still have any fret buzz at the first fret or two it will require some work on the nut. You can shim it but a new nut is best, with nut slots cut the right depth.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
codyrex97
Registered User
Join date: Mar 2015
32 IQ
#3895
Sounds like a plan. Meaning to replace plastic nut with bone/tusq eventually so hopefully the truss rod adjustment can alleviate a bit of the buzzing problem until I manage to get that nut replaced.

Thanks for the tips! Keep rockin'!
"I think it's so cool that you can pick up the guitar and create something that didn't exist 5 minutes ago."
Tsjackson
Registered User
Join date: Apr 2015
10 IQ
#3896
arial black3black

Hi there,

I am new to this, have been scouring the internet to find any info on a boxwood electric guitar and have drawn a blank, hence why im here to ask you.
Has anyone ever made a solid bodied electric guitar from boxwood?
Anyone have any idea about if it would be a good or bad guitar tonewood?

The reason im asking instead of just doing it is that its normally a very expensive timber available in tiny logs, and i have recently bought for a brilliant price some very large logs, easily enough to make a strat style guitar. And i just wanted a few more clued up opinions before potentially wasting some lovely timber.

Another thing i am tempted to do is make the centre piece of the guitar from quarter sawn oak, and the two 'wings' from boxwood. I know some guitars are capped with a much denser timber, but what would using something like oak as the centre piece do to the tone?

Cheers

T
baum8298
Registered User
Join date: Jan 2015
10 IQ
#3897
Quote by the humanity
ah. for shaping a neck down.

and +1

A spoke shave. Or a large rasp either work great, it's just what you prefer
ldnovelo
UG Addict
Join date: Oct 2006
1,171 IQ
#3898
Guys, I want to change the pickups in my old chinastrat just to have it as a practice guitar. I was just wondering: what about the middle pickup? Do I ask for it RWRP or do I just place it upside down? I will most likely buy a set of three, but this question has been bugging me. Thanks in advance.
dannyr2078
Registered User
Join date: Jan 2015
10 IQ
#3900
Just want to know if this is possible, I'm thinking of inlaying a inch by inch and a half badge just behing my bridge saddles. It's on a squire strat that's a few years old. If I were to try it, how would I go about it, and what might go wrong?
Sunfist
Registered User
Join date: Apr 2015
656 IQ
#3901
Could anybody tell me approx how much it would cost to have a Strat body repaired (mostly just repainted). A friend has one he is trying to sell me and it fell over in his van one day and has an area a little bigger than a quarter on the top edge of the body with the paint chipped off. The wood under it looks like it was hardly damaged at all. Would they be able to just sand down that small area and repaint it or would the whole body need to be redone? I am assuming the same place that repairs the electronics and other hardware could do this also? What kind of paint do they use on guitar bodies? I might try to do it myself unless it requires special tools or paint.
Sackofwee
Registered User
Join date: Jun 2015
10 IQ
#3902
Hello, I'm thinking of cutting my own unique guitar body. I was going to take apart a Squier Strat, and put the neck and all the components and put them pretty much exactly as they were on my own shape. I have a few questions:

Have you ever tried anything similar?
Is there anything I should know beforehand as I have never made a guitar before?
Would Beech work as a guitar blank?

Thanks for reading.
Extra Crunchy
Registered User
Join date: May 2011
10 IQ
#3903
Hi, I've bought an old body and neck which (after some researching) seems to belong to an old Sakai guitar. It's a cheap Japanese brand of like catalogue guitars. I also got a single coil pickup with the pieces.
I was wondering if there is any need to add volume and tone knobs/capacitors to the circuit or could I just go without, like Mac Demarco's 'frankenstein' guitar?

Thanks
ThePIGI_King
I'm Lovin' It
Join date: Jan 2014
279 IQ
#3904
Was wondering if anybody could guide me in the ways of using electrical tape as binding on the body. I vaguely remember seeing it done by someone, but can't find anything about it anymore. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks all!
2014 Ibanez RG8
2013 Schecter Hellraiser
1999 Schecter Revenger 7
2007 LTD 'Monster' F
B.C. Rich KK Warlock
No-Name Acoustic
gratefulduck
Thread Killer
Join date: Jun 2007
1,494 IQ
#3905
tiny preamp for a cigar box uke? wanna put in a piezo, but i hear you cant wire a tone knob to it, and all the preamps ive seen are a bit large for what i have to work with.
(must be piezo, nylon strings*)
Footlessracer
Registered User
Join date: Aug 2015
10 IQ
#3906
Hey guys and girls I just installed a set of chrome pickups I got from Dragonfire on my Jackson JS34 and all I can get is clean tone no matter what adjustments I do I cant get any distortion. Has anyone ever run into this or a similar problem ? Thanks
bigbubba428
David Bankston
Join date: Nov 2015
23 IQ
#3907
Hey what do you guys use to fill up dings, holes, and cracks in old guitars? What paint do you recommend for re-painting? And any recommendations on good tuner pegs for a strat style memphis guitar?
seoplednakirf
Registered User
Join date: Jun 2015
21 IQ
#3908
Just read the pickup guide sticky, and it made a very clear point about some pickups to be avoided if your guitar is made of a certain type of wood. It just happens to be that I'm interested in a pickup not mentioned in the sticky, so I would like to know how do you do determine whether or not a certain type of pickup will or will not work with a certain kind of wood? In my case, I would like to put SD Nazgul (6 strings) in an alder wood body.
Stickymongoose
Registered User
Join date: Sep 2008
153 IQ
#3909
Thinking about buying a Dremel 4000 plus the rotary workstation. Someone is selling both practically new on the local CL at a fair price. How handy is this thing for inlay work? I've never done anything of the sort before, and I'd like to get into it. Starting with custom truss rod covers and other things i can throw away if I screw up. I live in a small apartment, so this would pretty much be my only power tool. Everything else done with hand chisels, saws and files etc. So, can this do light duty routing with fairly level results?
Rocketface2112
Face of rockery
Join date: Dec 2007
502 IQ
#3910
hey so i got a ds1 pedal that im gonna use for my first pedal mod.i already ordered a kit for the keeley mods. ive wired up many guitars in the past, so i know how to solder. just got a couple questions about materials.

what kind of wire will i need ?
i think i read somewhere 20-24 awg stranded but wouldnt solid core be better?

what kind of solder do i use?
is 60/40 fine

and since i haven't soldered on a PCB board before do i need to keep the temperature lower? or anything special i need to know?

heres the kit i ordered

http://www.maxwellaudiodesigns.com/#!product-page/csi5/79dee0ec-cf66-1e5c-3eb0-9927ea41f454
Very Orange CARVIN DC 700
PRS SE Custom - crunch lab&PAF pro
Ibanez GRX40 - modified
Peavey Valveking 112 w/ 2x12 cab

Originally Posted by Shirate
The guitar, the only beautiful female that looks better with the top ON haha

Transformice
Last edited by Rocketface2112 at Feb 10, 2016,
dspellman
Registered User
Join date: Jan 2012
1,110 IQ
#3911
Quote by bigbubba428
Hey what do you guys use to fill up dings, holes, and cracks in old guitars? What paint do you recommend for re-painting? And any recommendations on good tuner pegs for a strat style memphis guitar?


Go to the StewMac site (www.stewmac.com) and look for drop fill techniques, etc.

http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Learn_About_Instrument_Finishing_and_Finish_Repair/Super_glue_drop-fill_quick_fix_for_finish_chips.html

Superglue (they must have at least 10 varieties) works pretty well for this, but it depends a bit on the paint that's already on the guitar.
dspellman
Registered User
Join date: Jan 2012
1,110 IQ
#3912
Quote by seoplednakirf
Just read the pickup guide sticky, and it made a very clear point about some pickups to be avoided if your guitar is made of a certain type of wood. It just happens to be that I'm interested in a pickup not mentioned in the sticky, so I would like to know how do you do determine whether or not a certain type of pickup will or will not work with a certain kind of wood? In my case, I would like to put SD Nazgul (6 strings) in an alder wood body.


I think the type of wood is probably immaterial to the pickup's working on a particular kind of guitar. Leastways, it's not consistent, and there's no intelligent way to predict what a particular pickup will sound on a guitar based on wood type. Buy it, try it.
Smitty18
Registered User
Join date: Jun 2016
10 IQ
#3913
Here I have a mid 80's Kramer I picked up on the cheap. The frets are worn down quite a bit. Do you guys think a fret level,dress, and polish would suffice? Or should I spend the money on a complete refret? Or maybe they aren't even as nearly bad as I think?

Here are some pics:

http://imgur.com/a/M28CQ


Thanks
Last edited by Smitty18 at Jun 3, 2016,
Invader Jim
?)
Join date: Aug 2005
971 IQ
#3914
Looks like you may as well go for a full re-fret. Even if you re-dress them, they don't have a lot of years left. Stainless steel will last pretty much forever (and stay shiny) but is harder to work with than nickel-silver and will probably be more expensive.
Anzio
Dawn of a Nightmare
Join date: Feb 2010
320 IQ
#3915
I have a couple of questions. One, what tends to be a better metal pickups, a Seymour Duncan hot rod set, or the stock INF pickups that came with my ibanez? Two, I'm trying to figure out which soldering iron to buy and everybody seems to have a different opinion of which wattage and such to use. What do you guys recommend? I wanna do both guitar and pedal mods.
Invader Jim
?)
Join date: Aug 2005
971 IQ
#3916
IDK about the pickups, but if you can afford it, I have a Weller WESD51 soldering station and I love it. Digital temperature control, fast recovery time, and lots of tip styles available.

Just don't get a cheap iron. They have an unregulated, nonadjustable heater in the shaft, making it hard to solder to things like pot and switch casings. The Weller (and I would assume most good irons) has the heater in the tip so the recovery time is much faster and you don't have to linger on bigger jobs. Also, cheap irons have a plated copper tip and must be filed back to shape periodically (molten solder and flux eat away at copper tips). The Weller (and probably any good iron) has a plated iron alloy tip that will last for years if you take care of it (alloy tips must never ever be filed).

I've used the cheap irons all my life and when I finally got the Weller station, the difference was like night and day. I'm never going back.
Gladerex
Awaiting Email Confirmation
Join date: Jul 2016
10 IQ
#3917
Hey guys!

This is my first post here, I have just a couple questions.

I recently learned about how changing / upgrading the pick ups on your guitar can make a huge difference to your tone quality. I want to replace the pick ups in my Ibanez RG120. It has a maple neck and an Agathis body. It isn't a great guitar, but I really like it. I don't have a ton of money, so I wanted to replace the pick ups and get a new amp. I'm currently using a line 6 spider IV, 15watts.

I'm looking for a punk rock / alternative sound. I really like the sound from Fall Out Boy's from under the cork tree album. After some research, I am thinking about getting either Seymour Duncan JBs or Invaders. Would those work in my guitar, and could they give me close to the tone I'm looking for? Thanks so much.
luvs2gro
Ug's Zorak
Join date: Mar 2012
127 IQ
#3918
EDIT: actually figured it out, got some help on Reddit. Was wondering though, after doing the master volume / master tone mod my neck pickup is waaaay louder than the bridge, and before they were about even. After adjusting the height the neck is still way louder and the bridge barely got any louder. What could be causing this?
I won't slave for beggars pay, likewise gold and jewels. But I would slave to learn the way, to sink your ship of fools.
Last edited by luvs2gro at Yesterday