makutoid
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#1
I've just got a Yamaha SF1000 ( ) which came with 10s on it. The set-up in all honesty was pretty standard, nothing to be raved about. My first thing was to put 9s on as that's what I use on all of my guitars. Here's my problem....

With 10s on, there was no buzz at all, I just didn't like the strings. After replacing them with 9s, the open B string buzzes horrifically, to the point where it's difficult to make out the tuning of the string. There's no other buzz anywhere on the neck, on any other string.

Any ideas of why? What can I do to fix this?

(I would go back to 10s, but I find playing lead so much smoother with 9s)

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#2
What are you tuning to E,D,C.....
can you raise the B string at the bridge? (I am unfamiliar with your guitar)
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#3
Quote by Robbgnarly
What are you tuning to E,D,C.....
can you raise the B string at the bridge? (I am unfamiliar with your guitar)


Tuning to E, so standard for now. I can raise the bridge as a whole but it's a T-O-M Les Paul style bridge so I can't raise each saddle individually, otherwise I'd have tried that

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#4
Quote by makutoid
Tuning to E, so standard for now. I can raise the bridge as a whole but it's a T-O-M Les Paul style bridge so I can't raise each saddle individually, otherwise I'd have tried that

You ment the SG1000 didn't you? no wonder I had no clue what a SF was.

The string maybe sitting too low in the nut slot. What frets is it buzzing on?
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#5
Quote by Robbgnarly
You ment the SG1000 didn't you? no wonder I had no clue what a SF was.

The string maybe sitting too low in the nut slot. What frets is it buzzing on?


Seriously?? I definitely mean the SF, the super flighter? Google it :P

It's just buzzing on the open string, the rest of it seems alright apart from the fact that it's impossible to set a low action that doesn't buzz...pretty f***ed off with the seller right now

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#6
Quote by makutoid
Seriously?? I definitely mean the SF, the super flighter? Google it :P

It's just buzzing on the open string, the rest of it seems alright apart from the fact that it's impossible to set a low action that doesn't buzz...pretty f***ed off with the seller right now

I wasn't messing with you. I really have never heard of the SF that's why I thought your talking about the SG1000.

You said it did not buzz before you changed strings, so how is it the seller's fault? He probably has no idea.

what frets is it buzzing on? you never answered.

Like I said if it is the first fret it may be that the smaller string is sitting a hair lower in the nut slot than the larger gauge one. If thats the case it is an easy fix with a new nut.
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#7
Quote by Robbgnarly


what frets is it buzzing on? you never answered.



Ah I misunderstood, yeah it's buzzing against the first fret.

That's not the soul reason of my frustration by the way, the set up was awful in the first place, neck was bowing and action at the 12th fret was going on 4mm, yet supposedly "set up for shredding"..

I'll have a look at filling the nut slot first I think, then replace if it doesn't work.

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#8
Quote by makutoid
Ah I misunderstood, yeah it's buzzing against the first fret.

That's not the soul reason of my frustration by the way, the set up was awful in the first place, neck was bowing and action at the 12th fret was going on 4mm, yet supposedly "set up for shredding"..

I'll have a look at filling the nut slot first I think, then replace if it doesn't work.

I would sugest you just have a new nut cut for your guitar if that is the reason. What would you fill the slot with?

I can understand your frustration, but maybe the guys you bought it from likes his action a little higher than normal, everyone is diffrent.

But he could have just put that on there to help sell it faster.
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#9
Quote by Robbgnarly
I would sugest you just have a new nut cut for your guitar if that is the reason. What would you fill the slot with?


A few guides online suggest using a specific type of glue but I'm sceptical about that... I'll have to research a little more...

Another problem is that the low strings buzz between frets 7 and 10 (E, A and D strings) but not either side of those, unless the bridge is ridiculously high. Any suggestions on why? I've played with the truss rod and it's pretty much perfect but doesn't help in the slightest, if anything it feels worse for it.

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#10
how do the frets look? are they worn ?
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#11
Quote by Robbgnarly
how do the frets look? are they worn ?


They look absolutely fine in all honestly, I mean they're obviously a little bit flatter than they would've been out of the factory, but not excessively so. I've just run it through my amp and you can't detect the low string buzz through the amp so that's not too bad.

The B string is still definitely an issue though. After a few tests, it's only (approximately) 0.5mm too low in the nut slot. Would you have any suggestions of what to fill that with? I've never tried doing that before.

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#12
I would suggest filling it with a new nut. A nut blank is cheap, even one with the slots already filed in are pretty cheap.
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makutoid
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#13
Quote by Viban
I would suggest filling it with a new nut. A nut blank is cheap, even one with the slots already filed in are pretty cheap.


That's what I'm gonna do I think... Going to look at filling the slot in the existing nut but if it doesn't work then I'll just replace it. Replacing a nut is pretty simple I suppose? Again, I've never had a need to attempt it in several years of guitar customising and repairs etc, the nut has been fine on all but one guitar I've owned.

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#14
Quote by makutoid
That's what I'm gonna do I think... Going to look at filling the slot in the existing nut but if it doesn't work then I'll just replace it. Replacing a nut is pretty simple I suppose? Again, I've never had a need to attempt it in several years of guitar customising and repairs etc, the nut has been fine on all but one guitar I've owned.

all you do is de-string it, put a block of wood against where it overhangs, light tap with a hammer, then put the new one on.
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#15
Quote by Viban
all you do is de-string it, put a block of wood against where it overhangs, light tap with a hammer, then put the new one on.


That's cool, what kind of glue would you use to fit the new one?

Also, is it safe to assume that a nut of the right width will also have the right kind of slots in it, or will I have to file those?

(Sorry for being thick :P)

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#16
Quote by makutoid
That's cool, what kind of glue would you use to fit the new one?

Also, is it safe to assume that a nut of the right width will also have the right kind of slots in it, or will I have to file those?

(Sorry for being thick :P)

Super-glue
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#17
Quote by Robbgnarly
Super-glue


Awesome :P

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#18
I wouldn't use superglue, as if you ever need to change the nut in the future, you might have a hard time removing it, and also you may put it on wrong the first time. Use a wood glue that isn't too strong. As for the question of nut width, measure your current one, and also the distance between the high and low E strings, as some nuts have different spacing, though the same width. Wherever you choose to buy a new nut from should tell you that.
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#19
^that
Measure overall width, string spacing, and if possible how deep the slots are. I use titebond original (the red label) for just about anything on the guitar. And its perfectly ok to be asking these questions, its good to ask and do it right the first time.

http://www.graphtech.com Is where i'd buy it at, you can go cheaper but the graphtech nuts are a high quality products.
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#22
Quote by Lavatain
I wouldn't use superglue, as if you ever need to change the nut in the future, you might have a hard time removing it, and also you may put it on wrong the first time. Use a wood glue that isn't too strong. As for the question of nut width, measure your current one, and also the distance between the high and low E strings, as some nuts have different spacing, though the same width. Wherever you choose to buy a new nut from should tell you that.


Thanks dude, I've checked it all and found one that looks about right (finding a 42mm nut for an LP style was a pain in the ass, mostly seem to be for strats and teles)

Quote by Explorerbuilder
Come on guys...
If it didnt buzz with 10s and it buzzes open strings with 9s... the lighter gauge strings are sitting lower in the nut slot and hitting the first fret.


Uh, we kind of established that in the first few comments..

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#23
Quote by gib_ber
check the trust-rod. Usually you have to loosen the trust-rod a bit when you change your strings from heavier to lighter.


Done the truss rod, that was the first thing I did after changing the strings. Hit two birds with one stone as it was bowing horribly anyway...

New problem!

Another thing, is that the low E string is buzzing quite badly around frets 6 to 9, and not really sure why.. The truss rod is fine now (done that a lot so I know it's right) and every other string is OK, it's just those few frets.

Any thoughts??

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#24
sounds like you have some high frets. I suggest you take your guitar to a good luthier/tech and have them give it a once over
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#25
Quote by Robbgnarly
sounds like you have some high frets. I suggest you take your guitar to a good luthier/tech and have them give it a once over


That's the plan. However for now, is there a quick test you can suggest to guarantee that it's high frets and not anything else? Not that I can think of anything else it might be... Also, to identify which frets are the high ones?

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#26
Quote by makutoid
That's the plan. However for now, is there a quick test you can suggest to guarantee that it's high frets and not anything else? Not that I can think of anything else it might be... Also, to identify which frets are the high ones?

take a straight edge like a ruler and lay it on the frets and see if there is any space between the edge and any frets (this will help see if you have any low frets) or if there is any place that the ruler teeters (this will tell if you have any high frets).

A standard ruler will work fine, but if you have a 20 inch (or close to it) straight edge that would be better because you can lay it on all or most of the frets at one time.

And don't just put the straight edge in one place, move it around to diffrent areas on the same frets (like where your diffrent strings are.

EDIT: remove all strings before you do this and try to get the neck as straght as possibe.
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Last edited by Robbgnarly at Dec 30, 2012,
makutoid
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#27
Quote by Robbgnarly
take a straight edge like a ruler and lay it on the frets and see if there is any space between the edge and any frets (this will help see if you have any low frets) or if there is any place that the ruler teeters (this will tell if you have any high frets).

A standard ruler will work fine, but if you have a 20 inch (or close to it) straight edge that would be better because you can lay it on all or most of the frets at one time.

And don't just put the straight edge in one place, move it around to diffrent areas on the same frets (like where your diffrent strings are.

EDIT: remove all strings before you do this and try to get the neck as straght as possibe.


Done, the ruler teeters towards the headstock from the 8th fret, but doesn't teeter towards the bridge at all. Any idea what that means? :P

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#28
It sounds like your 8th fret is high, but I can't be sure with out having it in my hand
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#29
Quote by Robbgnarly
It sounds like your 8th fret is high, but I can't be sure with out having it in my hand


That's what I thought, but surely then it would also teeter towards to bridge as well if it was just that one fret which was high?

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#30
Quote by makutoid
That's what I thought, but surely then it would also teeter towards to bridge as well if it was just that one fret which was high?

Well it may also mean that the frets twards the headstock are worn down. Like i said I really cant tell for sure with out having it in hand.
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#31
Quote by Robbgnarly
Well it may also mean that the frets twards the headstock are worn down. Like i said I really cant tell for sure with out having it in hand.


Yeah that's fair enough Thanks for you help mate, I've just found a respected luthier local to me who will do a full set-up (including fret levelling and polishing) for £60, so I'm probably gonna have him take a look at it for me, give it the full treatment.

Ordered a new nut too so I'll be fitting that when it arrives. I'll find a tacky wood glue to hold it in place if I can

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#32
I use super glue to hold nuts in place. all you need is a little, the strings hold it in place for the most part

And if the luthier is doing all that, you may want to have him fit the new nut.
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#33
Quote by Robbgnarly
I use super glue to hold nuts in place. all you need is a little, the strings hold it in place for the most part

And if the luthier is doing all that, you may want to have him fit the new nut.


Getting the luthier to do it is the smart thing to do, I know, however it'll be a while before I can do that as a friend is holding onto the guitar for a few months until I can actually pay for it...long story

Fitting a new nut isn't difficult surely?

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#34
Quote by makutoid
Getting the luthier to do it is the smart thing to do, I know, however it'll be a while before I can do that as a friend is holding onto the guitar for a few months until I can actually pay for it...long story

Fitting a new nut isn't difficult surely?


No it is not hard. There are lots of places that sell pre-sloted nuts. I like Bone and Graphtech nuts. You can get an Earvanna compensated nut (it make intonation even better and easier) but they are quite expensive.
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#35
Quote by Robbgnarly
No it is not hard. There are lots of places that sell pre-sloted nuts. I like Bone and Graphtech nuts. You can get an Earvanna compensated nut (it make intonation even better and easier) but they are quite expensive.


Yeah I've just ordered a Graphtech, have high hopes considering the reviews! It literally is just a matter or lining it up right and glueing it in (assuming the slots are the right depth) right?

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#36
Quote by makutoid
Yeah I've just ordered a Graphtech, have high hopes considering the reviews! It literally is just a matter or lining it up right and glueing it in (assuming the slots are the right depth) right?

You did actually mesure the nut size right (not being a dick, just making sure)? But they do come in several diff sizes and shapes.
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#37
Quote by Robbgnarly
You did actually mesure the nut size right (not being a dick, just making sure)? But they do come in several diff sizes and shapes.


Yeah yeah of course I stated incorrectly in a previous comment but correct measurements for mine are 43mm x 5.3mm x 9mm measured with digital calliper rather than my dad's tape measure Spacing from E to E is 35mm

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#38
Quote by makutoid
Yeah yeah of course I stated incorrectly in a previous comment but correct measurements for mine are 43mm x 5.3mm x 9mm measured with digital calliper rather than my dad's tape measure Spacing from E to E is 35mm

OK I was just making sure
Good luck
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#39
Quote by Robbgnarly
OK I was just making sure
Good luck


Sweet, thanks

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