Duffybear67
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Join date: Jan 2013
54 IQ
#1
what would be wrong with my guitar if the frets buzz at the low E, A and high E buzzes at the 2nd and 1st on the high E making the same sound...would that be a trust rod adjustment or is my Floyd rose ****ed.... it's sad cause i never used the Floyd like it should be.... i know its intonated correctly cause im awesome and i know that so that cant be it..... or am i wrong /// ( i should be wrong = ) + ) \\

only like two frets buzz on the A at 13 and 14
Last edited by Duffybear67 at Feb 21, 2013,
Freddiez79
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Join date: Oct 2012
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#2
Try to check your truss rod. Use a capo on the first fret and bar off at where the body meets the neck. Then With a feeler gauge check the relief at the 7th fret. It should be some where in the realm of .008 and .020 I like mine at .010 to .012 but I have a heavy right hand. Hope this helps.

Ps if its a buzz above 10-12 fret its more than likely to be the truss rod or the nut. If its below the 10-12 its more than likely the bridge or saddle.
Last edited by Freddiez79 at Feb 21, 2013,
Duffybear67
Registered User
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#3
i tried loosening it..and it seems really really loose...i know that cant be good..
H4T3BR33D3R
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#4
How much did you loosen it? You're really supposed to do a VERY small adjustment and let the guitar settle a bit before you adjust it anymore.
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Duffybear67
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#5
okay im dumb for typing this had lots of coffee .... digress check... okay...the neck looks virtually dead straight ..... is it okay if the truss rod is wiggly loose kinda i dont want it to pop out....= (..... i was thinking nut shim just for the first and send fret on high e ...and denn.... idk this is the shit i lose sleep over..... lol
H4T3BR33D3R
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#6
You should take it to a shop.
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Duffybear67
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#7
oh and i turned it left the first time 1/4 turn it was wiggly loose...wich is scary
Battery Chicken
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#8
Yeah a truss rod should not be loose, i'd get a luthier to have a look at it.
thehikingdude
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#9
It always amazes me how often people here suggest adjusting the truss rod as the first step.
Freddiez79
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#10
It always amazes me when people make smart little comments but contribute nothing of any importance to the conversion.
Freddiez79
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#11
Hey man sorry I couldn't get back to you last night.

The only way you can mess up a truss rod is by over tightening, or with a 2 way it goes for loosening it as well. just don't force it. If You have a 2 way and its at the point where the neck is supporting the strain of the strings on its own the truss rod nut will sometimes feel a little loose, that is because the nut is welded to the rod and if there is no strain on the rod it will feel loose. If it is indeed a 2 way just loosen it a 1/4 turn and see if it takes out some of the slack just be careful with it if it seems too hard to turn don't force it. Once it gets to wear the truss rod is putting relief in the neck you will start to feel some resistance and the truss rod nut will no longer feel loose. When you start to work on it again I will be happy to help in any way just let me know. I really don't think any thing is messed up.
thehikingdude
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#12
Quote by Freddiez79
It always amazes me when people make smart little comments but contribute nothing of any importance to the conversion.

I apologize, I should have offered more. I'd start with adjusting the bridge first then check the nut second, never the truss rod as the first fix.

My point is that I see time and time again (only on this forum) that people are told to adjust their truss rod FIRST for a multitude of reasons, many times the issue has nothing to do with the truss rod. Plus if you don't have some sort of insight into how to adjust one you can really screw things up very quickly. Just seems silly to me, that's all. What the hell do I know. I'm just some guy behind a keyboard. Again, I am sorry for the comment.
Last edited by thehikingdude at Feb 22, 2013,
Freddiez79
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#13
If you read my first post I said nothing about adjusting anything I told him how to check the relief nothing more. That way we would know if it was the truss rod and if not move on to the nut. Also if its buzzing above the 10 th fret it is not the bridge. Adjusting it would do nothing to help the problem. The problem would be the truss rod, nut or a fret that is not seated properly.
Last edited by Freddiez79 at Feb 22, 2013,
thehikingdude
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#14
OK, I didn't realize that checking the truss rod wouldn't include adjusting it. Obviously the OP thought as I did. Like I said, I really don't know jack about guitars. It was silly for me to even comment in the first place. Won't happen again, at least not when it comes to that trust road thingy.
WholeLottaIzzy
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#15
Quote by thehikingdude
It always amazes me how often people here suggest adjusting the truss rod as the first step.

This dude's right. Truss rod should be last resort. Check everything else first then if you can find it, adjust the truss rod.
Freddiez79
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#16
With what the man said was the problem it was the first thing to CHECK if you have buzzing at the 10th fret or above (1-10) it will be the truss rod or the nut or possible a fret that is not seated right these are the most common reasons. So checkimg the relief in the neck would tell you if the truss rod needed to be adjusted, or if you needed to look at the nut or your frets.
dazza027
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#17
Freddie, the confusiing thing i see with the post is that you said its most likely to be the truss rod or the nut... so what I see there is oh well it must be the trust rod but check the nut too. thehikingdude is dead right, not to take anything away from your post Freddie except priority of suggestions, but almost every post about fret buzz has a first reply post of check the truss rod... It might just be the way the guy plays, or he might be playing a 20 dollar piece of shit too. My advice to the OP, dont **** with it, take it to a shop and get a tech to look at it, and see if he will let you watch what he does to check it out, you might learn something.
MaggaraMarine
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#18
Quote by Freddiez79
With what the man said was the problem it was the first thing to CHECK if you have buzzing at the 10th fret or above (1-10) it will be the truss rod or the nut or possible a fret that is not seated right these are the most common reasons. So checkimg the relief in the neck would tell you if the truss rod needed to be adjusted, or if you needed to look at the nut or your frets.

When you say 10th fret and above I'm thinking of frets 10-24, not frets 1-10 and I was kind of wondering what you were talking about until you said that you meant frets 1-10.

And what's so scary in truss rod adjustment? It's not rocket science to adjust it. And like all adjustments, you need to be careful with it. And many times truss rod needs a bit adjustment. A bit doesn't mean four turns, it means a quarter or a half of a turn. I would check the space between the 12th fret and string when you fret your last and first fret at the same time. There should be some space between the fret and the string. If there's no space, you need to adjust the truss rod. And it's not so dangerous. But if you aren't sure about it, you could take it to somebody who can adjust it without breaking anything. And like all adjustments, it's good to learn how to do it by yourself (unless you need to remove your neck to adjust the truss rod like in my Charvel).
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Last edited by MaggaraMarine at Feb 22, 2013,
Freddiez79
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#19
Quote by dazza027
Freddie, the confusiing thing i see with the post is that you said its most likely to be the truss rod or the nut... so what I see there is oh well it must be the trust rod but check the nut too. thehikingdude is dead right, not to take anything away from your post Freddie except priority of suggestions, but almost every post about fret buzz has a first reply post of check the truss rod... It might just be the way the guy plays, or he might be playing a 20 dollar piece of shit too. My advice to the OP, dont **** with it, take it to a shop and get a tech to look at it, and see if he will let you watch what he does to check it out, you might learn something.




Yeah sure thats what you would do, not me I know how to adjust a truss rod. Truss rods are not some kind of bark magic that you should be afraid of its a simple adjustment much like adjusting the bridge on your guitar. Yes you can mess something up if you do something stupid but if you take some care with what you are doing its not going to mess up any thing up.
Last edited by Freddiez79 at Feb 22, 2013,
dazza027
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#20
To be honest the more I look at what the OP has said he's either a troll or off his tits on meth.
Freddiez79
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#21
Quote by MaggaraMarine
When you say 10th fret and above I'm thinking of frets 10-24, not frets 1-10 and I was kind of wondering what you were talking about until you said that you meant frets 1-10.

And what's so scary in truss rod adjustment? It's not rocket science to adjust it. And like all adjustments, you need to be careful with it. And many times truss rod needs a bit adjustment. A bit doesn't mean four turns, it means a quarter or a half of a turn. I would check the space between the 12th fret and string when you fret your last and first fret at the same time. There should be some space between the fret and the string. If there's no space, you need to adjust the truss rod. And it's not so dangerous. But if you aren't sure about it, you could take it to somebody who can adjust it without breaking anything. And like all adjustments, it's good to learn how to do it by yourself (unless you need to remove your neck to adjust the truss rod like in my Charvel).



You are right sir. I should have been more clear on that I'm sorry if I confused anyone.
LeifEricson
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Join date: Feb 2013
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#23
You should take it to a guitar store, and have them set it up for you.
It takes time and practice to do it yourself, and your probably better off having an expert set it up.
I agree heavily with the person who said to do the truss rod last. That should be used to straighten the neck, not to give you better action. (Who hasn't broken that rule of thumb though, in fact I just did it... rofl)
You can raise/lower the nut, raise/lower the bridge, BEFORE you break out the allen wrench for the truss rod. If the neck looks nearly straight, leave it alone.
thehikingdude
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#24
Todays news: "Ultimate-Guitar.com becomes AdjustYourTrussRod.com" ;-)
MaggaraMarine
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#25
Quote by LeifEricson
You should take it to a guitar store, and have them set it up for you.
It takes time and practice to do it yourself, and your probably better off having an expert set it up.
I agree heavily with the person who said to do the truss rod last. That should be used to straighten the neck, not to give you better action. (Who hasn't broken that rule of thumb though, in fact I just did it... rofl)
You can raise/lower the nut, raise/lower the bridge, BEFORE you break out the allen wrench for the truss rod. If the neck looks nearly straight, leave it alone.

You will know if you need to adjust the truss rod. Just look at the space between the low E string and the 12th fret when you press down the first and last fret. Action doesn't matter when you do this measurement (because you press down both your last and first fret). There should be some space. If there isn't, you need to adjust your truss rod. It's so simple and it's not rocket science. You can't have low action if your truss rod isn't properly adjusted. And also, the neck should be slightly bowed, otherwise there wouldn't be any space between the fret and the string when you press your first and last fret down.

I wouldn't raise the bridge too much (maybe a little to see if the buzz goes away, but usually you would get buzz also on your higher frets if too low action was the problem). I had to raise my bridge so much that my action was ridiculously high on my Charvel. The right solution for the problem was truss rod adjustment. Though on my Charvel you need to take the neck off to adjust the truss rod. But luckily the guitar was new and I could just take it to the store I bought it from and they did the adjustment for free.
Quote by AlanHB
Just remember that there are no boring scales, just boring players.

Gear

Charvel So Cal
Ibanez Blazer
Yamaha FG720S-12
Tokai TB48
Laney VC30
Hartke HyDrive 210c