#4
You do adjust the saddles to change the action. Turn those little screws with an allen wrench.

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#5
There is a tiny locking bolt pointing towards the pickup on each saddle. Loosen this. This then allows you to use an allen key on the bolt either side of the string groove to adjust the string height. Once sorted, tighten the locking bolt. You can also adjust the nut to finetune string height at the other end of the board.
#6
The bolts towards the pickups is for intonation. Ajusting the induvidual saddles wil only get the string a millimeter further down. The strings is like 1/4 of an inch above the fretboard, something that is far from my taste.
#7
I own a Warwick, the ones pointing directly at the pickups is to unlock the saddle. The ones poiting towards the tailpiece is for intonation.- these are the black ones under the strings in the photo. You can also raise the whole bridge by unlocking it (centre holes on the outside), then loosening the four corner ones, then lock the bridge again.
#8
The correct way to adjust the bridge on a Warwick is as follows:

Unlock the bridge height bolts (four on the corners of the bridge plate).

Lower the entire bridge assembly until all the strings come into contact with the neck.

Adjust the string height on the saddles until they follow the radius of the fingerboard.

Lock the saddles in place using the pickup side bolt.

Raise the entire bridge until the action is to your liking.

Lock the bridge.

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#9
Nutter appears to be on to it.

I would unlock the saddles and lower them all to their lowest point. (If the neck is arched I would leave them alone.)

Then unlock the Bridge Platform and lower it to its lowest height, where all adjustments are equal and a string is making contact with a fret. [Listen for buzz, do not look for it]

(the Center Hex Screws on the Top and Bottom of the Bridge appear to hold the working part/Face of the bridge to the interior mounting plate.)

I would try and leave the rear end adjustment screws as low as possible, the Bass end Neck Screw a little higher than the High end if using Taperwounds.

At that point I would torque down the Center Screws with the big heads that hold it together.

All strings should be buzzing at some point on the neck. If you have a curved/arched neck you will have to raise the strings that are buzzing, then follow the steps on the lowering process to get all strings buzzing.

After lowering the Bridge assembly, getting the buzz on all strings, raise the G/C end Side to 1mm at the 12th fret, Raise the E/B Side to 2mm at the 12th Fret, tighten the Center/Lockdown screws, check your Pup height to 1/4".

Now you will have to learn a new right hand Strike and Flamenco Technique.
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#10
Hi Usernames,

Thanks for your question, and many thanks to everyone who provided some really great information about adjusting the Warwick two-piece bridge.

As an added reference, here is a link to Warwick's collection of great tutorials for setting up your bass or guitar:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLbbn83WWU4olwpaNqzB0beykwlL4LCcrn

I'll be browsing the UG forums as Warwick's official representative from now on, so I hope to answer more of your questions about Warwick/Framus products in the future.

All the best,
Jesse at Warwick USA
#11
Can anyone provide guidelines on replacing an old Rockbass bridge with the Warwick 2 piece bridge on a 5 string?

Thanks...