#1
Hi, i've been having my eye on the ibanez jem 7v for a long while now, the most reason being is it's " ultra thin neck . And i also tried one and it felt really thin, now i was looking at numbers.

I have an ESP LTD H1001 , ( Neck Radius 350mm )

The Ibanez jem 7v ( neck radius 430mm )

Can someone explain how the ibanez jem felt like it had a thinner neck? Or Am i reading unneccesary numbers ?

If my LTD does in fact have a thinner neck, what will the JEM give me that the LTD Won't ( i know the obvious best choice is to try it, but the guitar being 3000$ not many shops are willing to let anyone try the guitar .

And which of the Ibanez's do infact have a thinner neck?
#2
Ibanez felt like it has thinner neck because it actually has thinner neck. Those numbers aren't unneccesary, but they don't tell you how thin or thick the neck is.

Every Ibanez with Wizard neck or Wizard II or III has a thin neck.
#3
The radius is how flat the fingerboard is, not how thin the neck is- a bigger number equals a flatter fingerboard. That's why.

if you want to save some cash most of the RG series also has ultra thin necks. The japanese-made prestiges should be of similar quality to the 7V for a fair bit less cash. I think some models this year are even featuring the original edge trem again, so there's no need to get a jem if the edge was a dealbreaker.

EDIT: Ibanez normally lists the neck thickness in its specs on its website- measurements (c) and (d), thickness at 1st and thickness at 12th fret. anything less than 20mm at the first is normally pretty thin. the ultra thin ones are 17mm at the first IIRC.
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I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

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Last edited by Dave_Mc at Feb 13, 2014,
#5
There are billions of RGs, there's no way I could list them all

Best bet is if you come across one, check it's legit (the serial number should start with an "F"), check the first two digits of the serial number to get the year (really old ones used a different numbering scheme but most you come across should have the newer system- there's information on ibanez rules about exactly when the change occurred I think), and then look up the model on the ibanez website (they have all the old catalogues there ordered by date).

Or if you get the serial number, date code and a pic post it here and we can check it for you.
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#7
Best bet would be to get any ibanez rg with the number 500 or higher... Like ibanez 517, 520, 550, 560, 570, 670, 770, 1570 and so on. They are all made in japan, so ur gonna get something great for sure. Try to find one with the bubinga stripe on the back of the neck. The fretwork on those is amazing. They all have the origional edge bridge too... My favorite of all these is the rg520qs. Google it. Soo sossy. I got a third coming from ebay... Horray!
#8
Have Ibanez team j Steve via has correct stamp but 8 digits (F) 10102001. is this to do with decade change. Not a fake but looking to clarify.Thanks
#9
Please dont bump old threads.
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